Cardigan Sweater: OOP Kwik Sew 4192

I have to admit that it was sad to hear that Kwik Sew patterns are discontinued.  There were some reliable patterns that have crossed over the sewing table over the years.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 is another that will fall under this category.  

This cardigan (view A) is a well-drafted pattern that came together without any issues.  It was an easy project that I was able to whip up in an afternoon and fills my need for a cardigan sweater on this windy and rainy day.  

The only changes I made to the pattern pieces were to shorten the sleeves by an inch and even that wasn't enough so I cut the sleeve hem down another inch and a half.  I will say  I found it does run on the generous side.  The cardigan is a medium but I could go down to a small especially at the shoulder.  

The fabric is a wool knit that has been in the stash for many, many moons.  The fabric has been previously pre-treated when I made this dress.  The finish on the edges is a rolled hem done on my serger.  

Project Details

Seams:  Lightning bolt / knit stitch

Seam finish:  Interior seams are finished on the serger, edges are finished with a rolled hem.  

Fabric:  1.6 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Flip chart paper, markers, ruler, measuring tape, pattern weights, cutting table, iron, ironing board, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, tweezers, screwdriver and tea.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

May in Review...

Sewing

Four out of the seven projects sewn this month were for others, the shirt (McCall's 7940) and pear print dress (The Eva dress by Tessuti patterns) and the black wool cardigan (OOP 4192) were for moi.  Gifted projects were the cotton slips (Kwik Sew 3645), men's pull-on pants (Kwik Sew 3663) and dress (Simplicity 2372).    

Stash-busting

  

All of this month's sewing projects were made with fabric and notions found in the stash.  Stash busted this month:  12.4 metres fabric, 10 buttons, 4 packages of seam binding, 1 - 55 cm invisible zipper 0.2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape and 1 metre of elastic.  

Me Made May 2022 

My MMM pledge was all about editing my wardrobe and trying to figure out what I want to do with the lesser used / loved / don't fit anymore pieces in my wardrobe.  My focus was making my wardrobe function for my current lifestyle.  Some items were fixed, altered or replaced.  

And I continued with wearing my me-made clothing and accessories everyday.  I've been working hard at trying to lose weight.  Since this time last year I have lost fifteen pounds and I would like to lose another seventeen pounds to bring myself to a healthy weight.   This year, I am wearing me-made items that I wasn't able to wear last year.  That feels good to bring them out to wear again.  But I must say, other than wearing me-made pajamas most often, the knit wrap dresses were my go-to comfortable item to put during this year's rainy MMM season.  

So, what did I learn about my me-made wardrobe.  Well for one thing, the older I get the more I appreciate easy access clothing.  Back zipper dresses are not my favourite to pull from the closet.  I'm not as flexible as once upon a time.  Give me a wrap dress or pull-over dress over a fitted back zipper dress any day.  And dealing with arthritis in my thumb, which was behind my wrist pain but that's a whole other story, makes me appreciate buttons that are not itty bitty and cute.  There is nothing cute about button struggles.   This leads me to my favourite accessory this year, a thumb brace--replacing the face mask of 2020-21 as the must-have fashion accessory.  The thumb brace is a game changer at the cutting table and sewing machine.  But it also leads me to consider picking clothing that I can fit over the brace.   My Me-Made-May 2022 wardrobe choices are all about easy access and comfort.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Is it Sleepwear or a Slip? OOP Kwik Sew 3645

Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 3645 is listed as a Misses' Sleepwear pattern but when I spotted this is a discontinued bin it screamed the slip pattern I've been looking for all these years.  How did I miss this pattern along the way I don't know.  

I've been on the look-out for a slip pattern that didn't have narrow straps.  It is the one thing that Mom has been asking for in a slip.  I thought I found one with vintage Simplicity 6851 but it turns out that she has been wearing it back to front instead of the was it was designed and intended to be worn.  She says it is more comfortable worn that way, even with bust darts in the back.  But I digress...

I straightened the hemline to make it look more like a slip.  And adjusted the seam allowance at the sides and shoulders to 5/8" from a quarter inch seam allowance included on the pattern.  

This is a super easy project to sew.  It was just getting the fit right that took the most consideration.  Since this project wasn't for me, I borrowed a previously made slip to help decide on the size to cut.  And then I saw this, 

Yeah, right.  

Based on the slip I was comparing the pattern to, I cut the sides, armhole and shoulder at a medium and graded down to an extra large at the hemline.  

It was almost perfect.  A request for a little more more ease so I made another one.  

From the center front and back, I fanned out about an inch at the hemline and added a quarter inch at the side seams.  The hemline was finished with a narrow top-stitched hem.  

The fabric is a 100% cotton woven from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It's been in the stash for a couple of years.  It was prewashed and pressed before hitting the cutting table.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged side seams, seam binding on the neck and armholes

Fabric:  2 metres (both versions)

Seam binding:  5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Flip board paper, markers, straight ruler, curved ruler, cutting table, pattern weight, scissors, sewing machine, serger, threads, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

Revisiting a True and Tested Pattern: OOP Simplicity 2372

Another version of out-of-print Simplicity 2372 hot off the sewing machine and gifted.  I've lost count how many versions of this dress pattern I've sewn over the years.  Looking back at reviews, this pattern first hit the sewing table about ten years ago and this might be the seventeenth version of the dress pattern I've sewn.  

The same modifications to the pattern as previous versions, eliminate the center front seam, insert an invisible zipper at the center back, lengthen the sleeves, shorten the hem and add front patch pockets.  

The fabric is a home décor 100% cotton found in the sale section of the local Fabricland store last year.  I actually picked it up with another project in mind.  The zipper and thread were also from the stash. 

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Zipper:  22" invisible

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, serger, screwdriver, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing! 

In Sewing News Today...

I've downsizing my pattern collection.  

Many new patterns are showing up on the Etsy shop, patterns that I hoped to sew but never had the time.  

Patterns that no longer fit my current lifestyle.  

Patterns that no longer fit my body shape.

Patterns that no longer fit my mobility.  

A pattern collection that no longer fits my budget reality.  

I hope they find a good home.  

The hardest ones to let go are the Marcy Tilton and kAtheRine Tilton patterns.  

They were the most fun to sew.  

I couldn't let my copy of Butterick 5891 go, it is such a lovely pattern.  

And I'm sure it might make another repeat appearance at the cutting table one day.  

I haven't sewn Vogue 8709 in the past decade.  

But I don't have the heart to let it go.  

I still wear the first version I made over eleven years ago.  

I love the fit especially at the shoulder.  

One day, I will make another version.  

That's the plan.  

It's hard to let patterns go.  

There is a sense of nostalgia woven into them.  

A sense of lost dreams.  

Do you find it hard to let go of previously loved patterns?  

Looking back at days twenty-two to twenty-four, Me-Made-May 2022 has also been about editing and downsizing.  

Most of the items I've been wearing this month are making a repeat appearance.  

When I do chose an item to wear that I don't normally reach for there is a diminished sense of comfort.

  

This year it's all about comfort and easy to wear items.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe & Keep Sewing!  

Me Made May 2022 Editing (a Replacement Piece): Eva Dress

This version of Tessuti Pattern's Eva dress is a replacement for this version I made back in 2017.  This pattern is one of my favourite dress patterns.  I love that it's a pullover dress and the lantern shaped skirt.  The only reason I'm replacing the yellow silk version is that it shrunk in the wash and it's snug in the sleeves, pulls across the back and had been in the mending pile for seams that had given out in the past.  It was time for some editing.  

The fabric is what makes this dress.  It is a pear print cotton stretch fabric from Fabricland.  Counting this version, I currently have three Eva dresses in the wardrobe all made with cotton stretch fabrics.  Last year, I made this version when I gained weight and the first one I made became snug.  Since this time, I've lost fifteen pounds (many more to go) and the lemon print version is now too big and the red floral print version fits again.  That kind of explains why I think a cotton stretch fabric is the cat's meow.  

The pattern is a favourite and honestly, I've made more versions than the four mentioned here.  I highly recommend this pattern and believe that it's a good beginner's project as well.  There are no darts or zippers and this pattern is well drafted.  I was able to sew this up in an afternoon.  

There were some minor changes made to the pattern.  The hemline was shortened, pockets were raised by an inch, and the waistline seam was taken in an additional half inch.  The hems and neckline were finished with single fold seam binding.  Oh, and I sewed the seam allowances at 5/8" instead of the 1/2" recommended with the pattern.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.8 metres

Seam binding:  3 metres

Pattern:  The Eva Dress

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, scissors, measuring gauge, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stay Safe & Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Here are the me-made items I wore days fifteen to twenty-one.  Some days I feel like I've been spending most of my time wearing either rubber boots or pajamas.  It's been rainy and cold lately.  And it's tick season so I really haven't been spending much time outdoors.  I'm longing for sunshine and the end of tick season even if that means the return of snow.  This explains why my Me-Made-May wardrobe choices are all over the place.  

I did find that one of the Eva dresses that I made years ago does not fit like it once did back-in-the-day.  It's snug in the sleeves and pulls across the back bodice.  After wearing it recently, I've decided to edit it out of the me-made wardrobe and let it go.  Life is too short to wear ill-fitting clothes.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Did you hear about the group of students that walked out in protest over dress codes this week?  It happened at an Ottawa school.  Apparently, the school was pulling female students out of class because they violated the school's dress code policy on appropriate length of their lower body school attire.  No one should be judged by what they wear, but in reality we are all the time.  Clothing choices and policies are all about communication and we're all judged by our communication styles and messages whether it's through our words or attire.  But this is actually a gender equality issue not a the-dress-code-is-too-harsh-on-a-summer-like-day issue.  The male students breaking the same dress code policy by wearing tank tops were not equally pulled from classes during the dress code crack down.  The school board has since apologized to the students.  And in the meantime, no reported changes to the dress code policy.  According to this article, the students are calling for an end to the dress code but nothing in regards to gender inequality.  Ah, kids.  Wait until they encounter work place dress codes.  

It's too cold to think about wearing shorts or tank tops here and it's been a life-time ago since I was a high schooler so I can't really relate to the story or even the idea of plus thirty (Celsius) temperatures.  Earlier this month, I started to put away my winter gear (second time recently) only to pull out my sweatshirt turtleneck dress once again.  It's that chilly and rainy here this weekend.  

Perfect weather to stay indoors and tackle some sewing alterations.  These recently made pants were back at the work table to adjust the elastic.  

Luckily, I had another pair that fits well enough to go by and make the adjustment.  

This top made it back to the work table for a second time.  The latest change requested was to shorten the hem length.  Easy fix, I just rolled it up once from the previous hem and re-stitched with a knit stitch.  

In other sewing news, Me Made May is moving along.  Here is a look at me-made items worn from day nine to fourteen.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Pull-on Pants with Front-facing Cargo pockets: OOP Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

Here is one more pair of pull-on pants using out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 3663 and borrowing the cargo pocket from McCall's 6973.  This time around, I eliminated the side pockets from Kwik Sew 3663 and replaced them with two front-facing leg cargo pockets.  These pants will be worn by someone who sits most of the day.  My hope is that these pockets will provide better access.   

The hem is top-stitched with a 1 1/2" hem.  The elastic opening hasn't been closed because I'm not sure if it needs to be tightened.  For some reason these look loose to me.  It's a challenge when you're sewing for someone that is not near by to try them on when you want to check sizing.  These are a gift / charity project.  

The fabric is a beautiful light-weight cotton denim that I had sitting in my stash.  It was pre-treated with a machine wash and dry before moving onto the ironing board for a steam pressing and then the cutting stage.   

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch length

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Elastic:  98 cm (38 1/2")

Patterns:  McCall's 6973 and OOP Kwik Sew 3633

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, thumb / hand brace, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, blind hem foot, regular presser foot, serger, threads, thread clipper, iron, ironing board, and tea breaks.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Even though I am pleased with how the shirt turned out yesterday, the hem length just didn't sit right.  So, after trying it on this morning the shirt ended up back on the table to be tweaked a bit.  

One and a quarter inches were cut and the lower portion of the front facings were open so that I can shorten the length.  If I looked more closely at the notes from the first time I made this shirt I could have avoided this alteration.  Sometimes I forget that I'm not a pattern model size.  

In other sewing news, I'm slowly working through my MMM pledge to edit my wardrobe.  I've been trying on clothes and sorting what can be recycled, donated, or altered.  

These are some of the clothes I pulled out and wore during days five to eight.  I'm starting to notice that I don't usually wear pants unless it's part of a pajama set or I'm doing yardwork.  Other non-garment items used during this time include reusable grocery bags, reusable coffee filters, knickers and my sunglass case.  

Next up on the sewing table are another pair of men's pants.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

New Shirt: OOP McCall's 7904 and OOP Vogue 1503

For this project, I revisited out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7904 and OOP Vogue 1503 to create another shirt.  This one is slightly different in the fit from the previous version.   

Some of the shirts hanging in my closet are a little snug or down right don't fit anymore.  Hence, my MMM pledge to edit my wardrobe and this project hitting the sewing table.  This shirt will replace two that no longer fit.  

The front, back, front facing, neck band and collar pieces are from OOP McCall's 7904.  The fitting suggestions of this Palmer / Pletsch pattern are what makes this a highly recommended pattern.  I like that this is a loose-fitting shirt.  The last time I made this shirt I made it with a fabric that has a little stretch in it so with this one I added a little bit of width at that side seams since I was working with a 100% cotton non-stretch fabric this time around.  I'm glad I did, I really do appreciate the extra ease.  

The sleeve, placket and cuff pattern pieces were borrowed from OOP Vogue 1503.  I prefer the placket design and the sleeve pleats from this pattern and the sleeve fit perfectly with OOP McCall's 7904.  

I did forget that I shortened the first shirt that I made and didn't make the same change here.  I wish I did, but I'm good with this length as well.  By the time I realized this, the front placket was sewn in place and I wasn't going to go back and make the adjustment.  The sleeves have the usual adjustment or being shortened.  

The fabric is a lovely light Japanese cotton that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many, many moons ago.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  It was a lovely fabric to work with and sew.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 straight stitch

Seam Finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  1 metre (non-fusible)

Buttons:  10

Patterns:  OOP McCall's 7904 and Vogue 1503

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, ruler, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, threads, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, regular presser foot, buttonhole foot, serger, seam ripper, cutting board, hammer, and buttonhole cutter.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

It's day six into Me-Made-May (MMM) 2022 and so far I've rescued three items and let go of two shirts that just don't quite fit / look good anymore.  Actually, the shirts are at the cutting table waiting to be turned into part of a future patchwork project.  And the buttons have already been harvested for a possible future project.  

I'm really focused on editing my wardrobe this MMM but I am tracking what I'm pulling out to wear as well.  

These are a selection of some of the me-made items that I wore and used in the first four days of MMM.  Me-made items not shown here would be undergarments (knickers, slip and socks).  I'm still wearing facemasks when I am out around people.  I've been doubling up (me-made mask or medical grade along with a KN-95) since most people are not following mask and social distancing recommendations since they dropped mask mandates and testing.  

Now that spring has finally arrived I'm really missing a jean jacket that fits the way I like.  You might remember that I recently finished this one but it's not what I'm reaching for when I need a jacket.  The sleeves are too long and it's on the verge of hitting the editing table.  I am looking at trying another jean jacket pattern, out-of-print McCall's 5191.  

Right now I have a Palmer Pletsch shirt pattern that I am currently working on and I do like the fitting suggestions.  That makes me hopeful this jean jacket pattern will have the fit I'm searching for.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Me Made May 2022 Editing (Day 3): Oversized Shirt Turned into a Nightshirt

Since I made this shirt, The Assembly Line's (TAL) Oversized shirt, I haven't worn it much. 

Standing below five feet, an oversized shirt is not the best look and I feel frumpy when I wear this shirt.  Add to that the sleeves, even though they were shortened, are much too long for my arms.  I thought I could rescue it from the donate pile if I tweaked it into a sleepwear garment instead.  

All I did was shorten the sleeves just above the placket and finished it with a narrow hem.  It's much too light for a winter type nightshirt but matched up with some leggings, I think it will work as a summer time nightshirt.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

Me Made May 2022 Editing (Day 2): Alterations to a Vintage Skirt

Many moons ago I stumbled across this skirt at a second hand store.  

I was drawn to the lemon printed fabric and then I was sold on the quality of this garment along with the fact that it's cotton.  No man-made fibers lurking here, not even the lining.  It's so comfortable to wear in the hot summer months.  I just wish it was a wee bit longer.  

I do believe that I will get more wear out of this one now that I lowered the hem about an inch and added a seam binding detail to the bottom of the skirt.  All I needed was to stop procrastinating, grab the seam ripper, plug in the iron and dig out the blind hem foot.  I used the blind hem foot as a guide to top-stitch the binding in place after stitching one fold line to the bottom of the skirt.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Me Made May Pledge

 

I guess it's about time I made my pledge for Me Made May 2022.  

I would be cheating if I only pledge to wear at least one me-made item everyday.  I do that anyway every day of the year.  Most of my wardrobe is me-made.  

This year will be all about editing and upcycling items in my wardrobe that no longer fit (my body and / or lifestyle).   

I've got to face the fact that there are clothes in my wardrobe that I've sewn more for the challenge or to learn a new skill rather than something that fits my everyday life.  

In the six years since I had made this vintage cape pattern I probably can count on one hand the number of times it has been worn.  Could this become my refashion challenge for MMM2022?  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

Me Made May 2022 Editing (Day 1): Replacing a Strap

Many moons ago, this purse came with a leather strap.  I still have it hanging around here, unusable for the purpose intended because at one end the hardware piece broke.  

I sat down and went through my sewing notions and came across this chain.  I picked it up at Fabricland years ago when I was thinking about sewing a Chanel inspired cardigan jacket.  Plans often change around here and I've never got around to sewing the jacket even though I gathered much of the supplies.  And at this point in my life, I wouldn't have anywhere to wear such a garment.  But I digress.  

The chain ended up being a perfect alternative for the handbag.  After rummaging though a tool box, I found some tools to help open and close the chain links.  It's easy peasy when you can find the tools to help with the repairs.  Actually, I did repair it once before, no tools required other than the sewing machine.    

It was back in 2020, I believe, that I used a scarf as a strap.  An old recycling trick to make it usable.  I prefer the metal chain, it's more my style and less fussy.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!