Stash busting: I Cracked the Code!

I've been singing the praises of Brace Buddies garments since I discovered them.  But I've also been trying to copy them at the sewing machine.  I have the fabric, equipment and time, so why not?  Although, I do still recommend Brace Buddies with all my heart. I'm so grateful that this company exists and their service is absolutely wonderful.  But I do realize they can not ship everywhere at this time.  So if you are not able to access Brace Buddies and you or someone you love wears a scoliosis back brace, this post might be of interest.  

Let me start off by saying that in this project was created in admiration for the Brace Buddies body sock.  All the design credit goes to this Canadian company.  

I recently ordered and received two body socks and two more t-shirts.  The t-shirt is one of my favourites to wear.  It has a protective flap where the brace sits at the underarm.  The body sock is a new to me order.  I did try to copy it before but did not quite get it right.  In these pictures you can see both of them the t-shirt laying on top of the body sock.  

 

But let me tell you, in case you didn't pick it up from the picture above the strapless body sock is very long.  It's fifty-six inches long which is too long for my four eleven tall height.  I will have to shorten it.  But first, I wanted to make another one to test out the size.  You see, the previous one I made is a wee bit too short and parts of the plastic brace peak through the edges.  

This one turned out just right!  I cut the length at forty-nine inches and it has one inch hems at both ends.  The fabric was folded in half and cut eighteen and three quarters of an inch from the fold.  The seam was sewn with an half inch allowance.  

There was something else that I noticed with the original perfectly designed Brace Buddies version, it was cut on the cross grain.  This was something that I didn't do with the first try at copying this design.  The red version is cut on the cross grain and it is comfortable to wear.  

This is how it fits under and over the brace.  

And how it looks under a dress.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies and equipment were sitting in the stash.  The cotton knit fabric came from Mitchell Fabrics, a local Canadian fabric store from a bygone era.  It's actually the fabric I used for this dress and there is enough left-over to make another body sock.  The Gütermann threads used in the sewing machine, coverstitch and serger were all labelled as made in Germany.  The scissor used to cut the project were made in Tiawan and were picked up at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and coverstitched

Pattern:  The original Brace Buddies Body Sock

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome CoverPro 1000CP, tweezers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, silk thread for hand stitching and tea.  

Elbows up and keep sewing!

Stash busting: Wool Pin-striped Pants / Butterick 6717

One more pair of wool pants to start off my stash busting year.  

Butterick 6717 hit the cutting table for one more pair of pull-on pants.  This pattern makes a comfortable pair of pants with the leg wide enough to wear a knee brace without looking overly wide.  This pair of pants, again, has side pockets, something I left off many of the earlier makes with this pattern for no good reason.  Butterick 6717 is a tried and true (TNT) pattern, a pretty basic and easy to sew pattern.  

The inner leg notch marking is off slightly but if you line up the crotch and the bottom hem, it all works out to being the same length, just ignore the notch.  I didn't follow the pattern instruction in the order they are laid out.  I was on board for steps 1 to 6 but I skipped to step 9 to 11 before sewing the pockets and side seams and then I went to topstitch the front facing in place.  

The only change, other than the instruction order changes, was to shorten the length of the hem and then shorten the left leg length another 5/8" to address the havoc scoliosis tries to cause with my sewing projects.  The hem was sewn with a machine blind hem instead of topstitching.  

The fabric is a lovely British wool suiting fabric which has been in the stash for too many years.  I will admit to being scared to cut into this as my collection of 100% wool suiting fabric is dwindling and it's becoming harder to find quality all-natural fibre fabrics like this now-a-days.  It was pre-treated before it hit the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the first Canadian made and tariff free project in 2026.  Yes, the boycott continues.  Thankfully, everything used to make these pants were found in the stash.  There were no new purchases nor any funds supporting the convicted felon's tariff war or to businesses that support his administration.  

The British wool suiting fabric was from Mitchell Fabrics, a local Canadian fabric outlet that closed down years ago.  Butterick 6717 is an American product, circa 2019 which entered the stash in 2022 and did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff economy in either of his terms.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads are from Güterman threads, a German company and were made in Greece.  The threads were purchased from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

This year, I hope to source all my supplies, fabric and patterns from the stash to the best of my ability.  I can check this one off as my first stash busting project of the year.  

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres (150 cm wide)

Interfacing:  0.60 metres 

Elastic:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6717, no longer in print, currently only available in PDF format

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tweezers, fabric scissors, seam ripper, safety pin and decaf coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash Busting: A Winter Version of Butterick 6784

This is my dream-come-true dress.  It's comfortable, has the best pockets and it's made in the most incredibly beautiful cashmere and wool blend fabric.  

Butterick 6784 is a tried and true (TNT) pattern and the forth version of this dress.  The pattern is well-drafted and designed.  It's another kAtheRine Tilton design and a fun project to sew.  I enjoyed sewing this pattern and have no dislikes to report.  The hem length was shortened by two inches and hemmed with a one and a half blind hem.  I made this version without the collar and interfacing the sleeve facing.  There were no other changes.  

The fabric was pretreated before hitting the cutting table.  This beautiful cashmere and wool blend has been in the stash for eight years and it actually made a previous appearance on the blog here.  I made a shirt dress with this fabric which is still in my wardrobe.  It still fits and it's in excellent condition.  I do like a shirtdress but I haven't been reaching for it lately.  It's not the fabric, the fabric is gorgeous.  It needs the hemline shortened since I've lost some height in the past seven years.  And since I have threads in the serger and sewing machine I think that will be next.  But I digress.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels followed by a steam pressing.  Post-construction, this dress will be treated with care and hand washed when needed.   

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No sewing supplies used to create this dress contributed to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  The fabric has been in my stash for years, many years, and came from Mitchell Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet which closed down in 2017.  The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann thread and likely purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, Butterick 6784, was in the stash for years prior to the convicted felon's global tariff war.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased via The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were purchased directly from KATM last year.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Labels:  2--one fabric label and one "Bespoke" label 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, pin cushion, pin box, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, extra bobbins, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, mini vacuum, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, clapper, iron, ironing board, good tunes, heating pad, Dr. Ho, rest breaks, and pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

A Pullover Knit Dress: Vogue 9268

This project is about revisiting an once upon a time favourite pattern, Vogue 9268, and stash-busting some fabric.  I made Vogue 9268 when it first was released in 2017 and then another version a couple of months later.  Currently, those two dresses are no longer in my closet.  I gave up wearing polyester which was fibre content of the first version and the second cotton knit version did not have enough drape to make this design work.  Fabric choice matters as much as sewing techniques.  

Enter the latest version of Vogue 9268.  This dress is made in a light weight cotton knit.  This fabric came from Mitchell Fabrics, prior to their closure.  This fabric has been in the stash for over a decade.  So, it is nice to finally stash bust most of the yardage.  There is enough leftover fabric to make a t-shirt.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  It hit the ironing board for a steam pressing before hitting the cutting table.  It was a lovely fabric to sew and it makes me miss Mitchell Fabrics more than normally I do.  

The pattern is still a favourite, it is so comfortable.  There were some tweaks to the pattern prior to cutting out the project.  I shortened the length since I am currently shorter than the first time I sewed this dress.  I cut the shorter version and it's still long and I'm okay with that.  I also shortened the sleeve length and it's still a long sleeve version.  I cut the pattern as a size medium except for the small section at the side seam from the underarm to where it curves out towards the drape of the skirt.  At this section I cut at the large size markings.  The neckline was changed, eliminating the V-neck shape.  The front and back pattern pieces were cut on the fold.  

Vogue 9268 is a well drafted pattern and came together quickly.  Need I say more?  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  I don't know if you heard about the increase in tariffs against Canada a few days ago.  

Artist: Bruce MacKinnon, Halifax Chronicle-Herald

Yup, the convicted felon, sexual abuser, pathological liar and TACO man is as predictable as ever.  No one is surprised that the convicted felon imposed higher tariffs on Canada at the beginning of the month.  So predictable.  And so the boycott of American products continues in the sewing workspace and all other areas of Canadian life.  

The fabric used in this project was from Mitchell Fabrics, a now-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is a "Made in the U.S.A." product that has been in the stash prior to the convicted felon started the tariff war against the world.  Knit 'N Stable tape used is a Pellon brand product, an American company.  It, as well as the pattern, did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy because it has been in the stash for years.  Once I run out of the remaining Knit 'N Stable tape sitting in the stash, it won't be replaced and I will instead turn to my Coverstitch machine for finished hems on knits.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.   The threads used in the sewing machine and serger are Güterman threads, a German company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam allowance:  Serged

Fabric:  4.2 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  3.30 metres

Label:  KATM "Be Bold" label

Pattern:  Vogue 9268, circa 2017.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table x 2, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, good tunes, measuring tape, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Pullover Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

There have been more than a few versions of tops, dresses and pants made from out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 over the decade + some.  What can I say?  It's a great pattern.  

And here is the first 2024 version of OOP Simplicity 2372.  I won't promise that it will be the last.  I'm just letting the fabric stash dictate the 2024 project list.  

This pullover top pattern went through some changes to get to this point.  

1. The center front and back seams were removed and cut on the fold
2. Hem length was shortened
3. Sleeve was changed into a long sleeve style.  

The fabric has been in the stash for about as long as the pattern.  I believe this was a Mitchell Fabric find from back-in-the-day.  The original idea for this fabric was to sew a button front shirt and then Covid happened and sewing face masks became all the rage.  That's when the fabric was cut for the lining of face masks.  And then there wasn't enough for the shirt plans.  So plans changed and with the left over cotton fabric I was able to make a pullover top. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Interfacing:  0.3 metres

Label:  1 KATM label

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, pin cushions, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, cotton thread, Janome serger, tweezers, polyester serger thread, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!  

Do You Use Home Décor Fabrics for Sewing Garments?

The home décor section at the fabric store is often overlooked when looking for fabric for a new garment.  Take a stroll down the aisles and you might be surprised with the inspiration that can be found.  You can find silks, cottons, linen, velvets and so much more that can be utilized into garments.  Okay, you might be thinking that the fabrics will be too stiff or treated with coatings that may make them uncomfortable to wear, but just take a stroll.  

Linen found in the home décor department is often marketed as textiles for kitchen ware, think beautiful linen kitchen towels or even curtain fabric.  I found that it also made for lovely linen pants that were more opaque than the fashion linen offered on the other side of the fabric store.  And they were very comfortable to wear.  

Silks from the home décor department have made it into my sewing work space over the years.  I was often smitten with the textures and prints on these silk fabrics, unseen on the other side of the fabric store. 

Cotton fabrics from the home décor department have been my favourite fabric finds.  I'm all about the bold prints!  The first garment made from a cotton home décor print was the red and white skirt, shown top right.  At the time a fellow shopper questioned what I was planning on making with the bolt of fabric I was inspecting and when I said a skirt she tried to talk me out of the project.  But sometimes you just have to go with what brings out joy and creativity and home decor fabrics certainly fill the bill.     

Cotton home décor fabrics are typically stronger, heavier and often come in wider widths than cotton fashion fabrics.  I can wear many of these cotton garments through the cold prairie winter.  

Other home décor fabrics have made it to the cutting table and these at times have been fabrics with man-made fibers.  

My personal preference is for natural fiber fabrics but sometimes the texture, embroidery and prints are irresistible.  Or in most cases, when home décor fabrics go on sale, they just happen to be more economical that the fashion fabrics and even muslin on the other side of the fabric store.  Perfect for testing out a new pattern.  

Have you found some fabric gems in unexpected places while at the fabric store?  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash Busting: Unlined Tweed Jacket / OOP Vogue 8430

This unlined and loose-fitting jacket will be perfect for the end of summer and moving into autumn.  It's made with out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8430.  This project was an easy make.  I evened out the hem, left off the dart on the lower sleeve and roll hemmed the edges.  

The fabric is a cotton tweed.  It's not listed as one of the recommended fabrics for this pattern but I like the pattern design on this one.  I know that this fabric has been in my stash for many years because I purchased this one at Mitchel Fabrics when it was open.  It closed down in 2017.  And then I remembered that I made a jacket with Vogue 8916 and this fabric.  It turns out that this fabric entered the stash in 2014.  Yes, I've held onto some pieces for a long time.  It's nice to have finally stash-bust this one.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged interior, edges finished with a machine rolled hem

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8430

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, clapper for weights, pins, pin cushion, scissors, thread clippers, Janome sewing machine, regular presser foot, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board and chai tea and audio book.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

A Forgotten Project, Finally Finished: OOP Vogue 1325

In the progress of cleaning up my sewing space a few weeks ago, I discovered a forgotten sewing project.  It's a pair of pants cut from out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1325 in a beautiful wool suiting fabric.  These pants were cut with a little extra ease on the sides so I suspect that they were cut post-March 2020 when the pandemic pounds starting showing up.  But to be completely honest, I'm not sure when I first cut these out and stitched the front darts. 

If it were today, I don't believe I would have re-visited this pattern.  Instead, I would have reached for a pant pattern that has an elastic back and darted front.  And today, I'm glad that I found these already previously cut.  I forgot how much I like the fit and comfort of this design.  The extra ease added at the sides worked out perfectly in making these wearable today.  

I still love that this pants pattern has a raised waist.  It was released in 2012, a time when below waistline pants and skinny legs pants ruled the fashion landscape.  I also adore the semi-fitted and flared legs which add to the comfort level of this design.  Oh did I mention, it has pockets!  This pattern is a keeper.  I do have another copy of this pattern, uncut, that contains larger sizes if I ever need to go there.  I hope not, and actually hope that I see the day that these will one day be loose on me.  I'm working hard, watching what I eat and adding more exercise into my day.  

There was a hic-up along the way when I forgot how to sew a pant zipper despite having excellent instructions sitting on my sewing table.  What can I say, I must be out of practice.  It took a couple of days sit down and seam rip the stitches and mend my ways.  

The fabric is a beautiful find at the Mitchell Fabric closing sale.  I haven't seen this quality of fabric at a local brick-and-mortar store since Mitchell Fabric closed.  So I'm really glad that these worked out.

 

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finishes:  Seam edges are finished on the serger. 

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Zipper:  18 cm recycled regular zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1325 (Anne Klein New York designer pattern)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, pin cushions, sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, blind hem foot, zipper foot, thread clippers, scissors, iron, ironing board, serger, tweezers, threads, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, and a whole lot of procraftination before this project saw competition.  

Happy Sewing!

Winter Wear Sewing: OOP McCall's 2495

This is my new car coat.  I'm so over down filled jackets that don't block the wind.  

It's reversible! And it's made with a scooter print that I found in the upholstery department at Mitchell Fabrics, many moons ago. Underlined with a jogger's fleece which according to one of the fabric professionals at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics will block the wind. And the other side is a wool fabric also from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  There is enough red wool left over to make a skirt or pair of pants. Decisions to be made at a later time.    

I added patch pockets to the wool side for somewhere to throw my keys. No button or zipper closure, I just plan to close it with a brooch or large decorative pin.  

Let's talk about this pattern. I actually almost over-looked this swing jacket pattern for this project. Mostly because of the sleeves. Flared sleeves for winter wear are not exactly practical for prairie winters.  

So I tapered them to be more like my winter coat sleeve width using pattern piece from OOP Vogue 8934 as my guide. Besides changing the shape of the sleeve and adding pockets, there's two additional inches added to the length.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 stitch length

Seam finish:  Graded seam allowances and zig-zag edges on the printed fabric, serged edges on the wool

Tips:  Invest in a clapper, it will make pressing edges so much easier.   

Fabric:  6 metres 

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 2495, circa 1999.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, pin cushions, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, threads, tailor's wax, sewing machine, sewing machine needle, walking foot, screwdriver, iron, ironing board, clapper, serger.  

Stay safe and Happy Sewing!

Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend: Butterick 6324

The diamond pin-tucking (yes, those kind of diamonds) on this fabric is one of my favourite details on this shirt. I purchased this 100% cotton fabric already pin-tucked many, many moons ago from Mitchell Fabrics. 

The pattern, Butterick 6324 (circa 2016), was found in a sales bin. Otherwise, I don't think I would have picked up this pattern for a simple top. I would have quite simply overlooked this one.  It's a lovely pattern and I'm quite happy that I gave this one a try.  

I really like the fact that there are no darts to interfere with the pin-tucking and the front fly feature gives it a nice clean finish. I switched the sleeve pattern for my favourite sleeve, cuff and placket combination from Vogue 1503.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 stitch length, 5/8" seam allowance.  

Seam Finish:  Serged

Tips:  Don't be scared off by this pattern based on Pattern Reviews that mention challenges with the front band.  I didn't find the instructions for this part of the pattern to be challenging at all, perhaps it was a revised printing?  

Fabric:  3 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.80 metres fusible

Label:  1 "Me Made" label by Kylie and the Machine

Buttons:  9 - 1/2" buttons 

Pattern:  Butterick 6324 and Vogue 1503

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, hand sewing machine needle, threads, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, serger, screwdriver, tweezers, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, tailor's wax, thread clippers, clapper iron, ironing board, seam ripper, and a few breaks.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Tres Chic! Scrub Caps

This Parisian landscape print cotton fabric was wide enough that I was able to cut the bands across the width. This made me so happy! The other fabrics used for the scrub caps were of a narrower width and I have to fold over the fabric lengthwise to make it work. Otherwise with the one-way design of this fabric it wouldn't have worked for the project. 

I'm able to make four scrub caps from this yardage of fabric. This has been in the stash for quite some time and originates from Mitchell Fabrics back-in-the-day when they were open. It's a really nice cotton, weight-wise and softness. Gosh, I really miss the quality of fabrics I used to find at Mitchell Fabrics.  

Just a note on the pattern, check the scale. I wasn't able to print it without taking out a pencil and curve ruler to adjust the pattern. On the up side, the pattern is equipped with many arrows documenting the lengths and widths that certain points in the pattern should be making adjustments easy to do.

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Free downloadable PDF

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, tailor's chalk, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, thread, carrot cake and coffee.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

My Sewing Top Fives: Fabric Hits and Miss

Fabric Hits

Hits and Misses where not limited to pattern construction, fabric choice played a key role in the success or fail of a project.  

This medium weight 100% cotton shirting fabric finally made it out of the stash earlier this year. It was an absolute pleasure to work with and it only highlighted how much I miss the fabric selection offered at Mitchell Fabrics.

I couldn't imagine a life where one is allergic to wool. That would be so sad as there are so many wonderful qualities of wool and it is one of my favourite fabrics to sew with,

Cork fabric.  Who knew it could be this easy to sew?

I'm not a faux leather fan.  It's the real stuff that I want to sew. Sadly, it's difficult to find in this part of the sewing world.  Fabricland sold a prepackaged small rectangular piece suede for an arm and a leg without a membership (an arm with a membership). It's more economical to find an old leather jacket and salvage the precious fabric.

Linen.  Need I say more?

Fabric Fail

There were a few, maybe three items made with a polyester fabric which have all been quick to pill. I've been on a path to eliminate man-made fibres from my wardrobe but I do have a few pieces in the stash that were used in my 2019 sewing. It just highlighted how much I prefer to sew and create with natural fibre fabrics.  

I think what surprised me at this look-back is that I didn't manage to cut into some beautiful yardage from Emma One Sock.  I have a beautiful denim waiting to turn into a pair of jeans.  Maybe next year?  I still have to decide on a pattern and finalize a muslin.  

Happy Sewing!  

Wool Pants: Vogue 1642

I don't believe that because a pair of pants has an elastic waist or partially elasticized waist that style is sacrificed for comfort. Vogue 1642 puts that myth to rest. Although, I will admit that I feel like I'm wearing some pretty fancy pajama bottoms when I wear these. 

This pair is more fitted that the first version. I raised the crotch, which turned out to be too much for my liking.  I'll have to shorten it half way between the first version and this one or perhaps I'll use the crotch layout on the size medium now that I have the smaller combination of sizes.

The outer and inner legs were cut as a large and I have to admit that I feel that I could loose a couple of pounds for these to feel as comfortable as the linen pair. The legs feel loose enough, its around the abdomen and butt that I feel this version is too fitted. 

The fabric is a blue wool suiting that I picked up at the Mitchell closing sale a couple of years ago. It's lightweight enough to wear now and into the autumn months. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the dryer with a damp towel and on the delicate setting.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.1 metres 100% wool

Interfacing:  0.2 metres fusible

Elastic:  1 metre 1/2" wide elastic

Pattern:  Vogue 1642 (Fall 2019 collection)  

Additional Tools & Supplies:   Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, safety pins, sewing machine, serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, threads, hand sewing needle and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Day 1: Me-Made-May '19

Today, Wednesday, May 1, 2019, is a running errands kind of day.  It is a gray day and my wardrobe choice seems to reflect the mood illustrated by the skies.  Fifty percent of the garments I wore throughout the day were me-made.  

Thirty-three percent of my day-wear garments were me-made. The outer garments consisted of a gray animal print linen shirt (Butterick 6026) with a charcoal gray ponte knit pull-on skirt (out-of-print OOP Butterick 5790) and a cashmere ready-to-wear sweater.  The undergarments were all ready-to-wear.  I'm not one of those talented leather work artists so my accessories, a black leather handbag and gray Sorel shoes (not shown here), are also from the retail landscape.  

My linen shirt is just shy of two years old.  It hasn't seen a lot of wear since making it mainly because it is not the type of fabric I reach for during the winter months and when I do wear it, the shirt tails roll up.  Maybe one day I'll straighten the hemline.  It is a keeper, I love that it's a natural fibre fabric and the print.  It hits high marks on the sustainability metre.  Linen is made from flax which needs few chemical fertilisers and less pesticide that cotton in its production.  If I didn't live in a climate where it can get pretty darn cold in the winter, I would have more linen in my closet. And I'll admit that I could have chosen a warmer option for the gray, rainy day. No wonder it doesn't get worn more.     

My skirt is a polyester ponte knit.  I'm not proud of this and I'm really trying to cut back on the amount of man-made fibres lurking in my wardrobe.  Yet, this is a recent make and came into my wardrobe about two months ago.  The fabric has been in my stash for years prior to my enlightenment and I'm trying to use what is in my fabric stash.  I like that this fabric isn't prone to wrinkling and it's warm for those cooler days. But I have to admit if I'm going to be mindful of the impact that my fabric choices have on the environment this hits low marks on the sustainability metre. Polyester is a man-made petroleum-based fibre meaning that its made from a carbon-intensive non-renewable resource. It is estimated that more than seventy billion barrels of oil goes into the production of polyester annually.  And it is believed that synthetic garments are the biggest source of microplastic pollution in the oceans. A laundered synthetic garment can release up to 1 900 fibres into the environment. This knowledge demands care in washing this piece of clothing and highlighted by an awareness that I don't want to make anymore polyester fabric choices.  

The garments worn as my sleepwear were 75% me-made.  My nightgown (Butterick 5667) is about a year and a half old and the terry clothe robe (OOP Simplicity 7417) is a recent make from the beginning of the year.  The robe replaces a well-worn robe that was seeing its last days. These two items were made with 100% cotton fabrics and they are both comfortable and warm.  I've really been noticing that the price of cotton has been going up over the years. If the blue waffle cotton wasn't faded and moved to the discount section I doubt I would have given this a second glance after seeing the price tag.  And the cotton terry fabric was a deal when Mitchell Fabrics was closing down. It is easy to understand the allure of those man-made fabrics vs natural fabrics when you making an economic choice at the cutting table. But it's worth the wait, to do without, until a good deal shows up.

Even though the production of cotton products are also criticized for its environmental impact, I find that the fabrics do last longer than many of their man-made counterparts.

The knickers (Simplicity 8229) are also me-made and are about two years old. It's made with a cotton and spandex knit and the sides are a polyester lace.  These are not my favourite pair, I much prefer the ones without the lace inserts, Simplicity 8228. And the one RTW sleepwear item was my cotton socks.

So before I head to bed, do your fabric choices keep you up at night? I hope not, rather just food for thought, conversation and perhaps future project planning. I wish everyone a good night's sleep.

Happy Sewing!  And sweet dreams.  

Terry Cloth Robe: OOP Simplicity 7417

I once vowed I wouldn't sew another terry cloth robe. Plans change.  

Decades ago, I made a terry cloth robe similar to this one that I wore out. It's a messy project. But I missed the terry cloth robe with the hood trimmed with lace. A couple of years ago during Mitchell Fabric closing sale I picked up this cozy terry cloth. And yes, it's taken this long to get to this project.  I don't know why.  It's an easy peasy project and something that I've wanted to replace for quite some time.  

I'm so happy to finally have this project checked off the want-to-make list. 

 

The pattern is out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 7417, circa 1996.  If you come across a copy, I would recommend picking it up even though robe patterns are widely available from the big four pattern companies.  This vintage pattern, unlike modern patterns, offers a variety of neckline details and hemline lengths.  It was the hooded version, just like the previous make, that I was drawn to.  Want a hooded robe and can't find a copy of OOP Simplicity 7417, consider Burda 6740.  

The Stats

Fabric:  3.7 metres

Pattern:  Simplicity 7417

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, sewing machine, serger, scissors, clippers, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, threads, measuring tape, serger needle and a vacuum for all those little stray threads.  

Happy Sewing!

Shirt Dress

I made a shirt dress by mixing some of my favourite elements from three patterns.

• Rachel Comey's Vogue 1503 have the most beautiful sleeves that I used along with the cuffs and placket detail.  

• The front and back pieces from McCall's 7546 were extended ten inches for a dress length.  
• Front fly front, collar and collar stand came from the McCall's 7546 pattern.
• And Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8934 provided the perfect side pockets and finishing detail to the button front fly.  

I'm really pleased with how it turned out.  It is a comfortable dress and conservative enough to wear to work. The pockets are just an added bonus.

The fabric is is a wool and cashmere suiting fabric. Sadly, it only made it into my collection when Mitchell Fabrics closed down last year. I miss that fabric store. The fabric was beautiful to work with and it feels lovely to wear.  

Not much else to say. It took six weeks to finish.  I'm just glad that it is finally done.  

Fabric:  3 metres 100% British wool and cashmere fabric

Interfacing:  3 metres of cotton non-fusible

Buttons:  14 shirt buttons

Patterns:  McCall's 7546, Vogue 1503, and 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, button hole foot, serger, sewing machine needle, threads for the machines, hand needle, silk thread for hand basting, cutting table, scissors, pins, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, sewing and knitting gauge, and a whole lot of searching for my lost sewing mojo.

Happy Sewing!  

Winter Coat: Vogue 8934

I turned to an out-of-print (OOP) previously used pattern for this project. This is my third version of Vogue 8934, and I think I can say I've finally made the coat of my dreams.

I went again with view B and adapted all the feature that I liked with the other version plus something extra. View B has lining as well as underlining. And I didn't forget those interior cuffs to help block out the wind. I even added a piece of chamois to the back underlining.

Where to begin? Let's start with the interior.

Elasticized cuffs added to the sleeve lining.

Like the others, I underlined this one. This time I underlined it with wool suiting fabric. Yes, it hurt to use the beautiful wool that I could have used for pants or a skirt, but if I'm going to stick to this natural fibre experiment micro-fleece was out of the question. And to be completely honest, with the improvements that I've seen with my sinus issues, I wouldn't even consider going back to using man-made fibres.  The fabrics used in this project are all natural fibres. The fashion and underlining are 100% wool and the lining is a 100% silk.

Wind blocking layer added to the back.

In between the underlining and the fashion fabric is a piece of leather that I recycled from a previously owned RTW coat. I hope that this will provided an extra barrier to the cold winter wind that blows in this part of the world. The real test will be to see how it holds up this week as the country is gripped by a cold snap. Would you believe that they said it is colder than Antarctica in some parts of the country?  How about if I told you that the Calgary Zoo had to bring their penguins inside because it's too cold?

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I digress... but it will be an interesting week to test it out.

There were a few challenges along the way.

I fell for these bamboo buttons but they were too large to fit into my automatic buttonhole foot. Thankfully, the vintage sewing machine that I picked up at a second hand shop was perfect for the job and it was just the machine that I needed to create the most beautiful buttonholes. I actually prefer the buttonholes from the vintage machine.  

Time also proved to be a challenge. I actually started this project back in early November when I started on the natural fibre experiment. I don't recall the other coats taking this long to sew. But to be completely honest I think it was more that my sewing mojo took a bit of a hit. I'm just thrilled that it is finally finished. Now I think I need to give my fingers a break from all that hand-stitching.  

The exterior wool and bamboo buttons are from Northwest Fabrics and the interior wool suiting and silk are from Mitchell Fabrics. All the fabrics were pre-treated prior to being cut out.     

The Stats:

Fabric:  9.6 metres (2.6 metres of napped wool, 3 metres of wool suiting, 4 metres of silk)

Interfacing:  1.2 non-fusible

Basting Tape:  1 metre

Buttons:  6 - 30 mm bamboo buttons

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, sewing machines, serger, walking foot, button hole foot, button hole cutter, hair brush (for hammering the button hole cutter), blind hem foot, silk thread, hand needle, heavy duty thread, threads for the serger, good tunes, and tea. Lots of tea.   

Happy Sewing!