Refashioning the Wrap Dress Into Something I Will Actually Wear

Many moons ago, I scored the original copy of a DVF wrap dress pattern, vintage Vogue 1610.  Today, you can find a copy via Vogue patterns as many DVF patterns are being re-released.  This re-released wrap dress design is now listed as Vogue 2040.  It's a lovely pattern and if you do fancy yourself a wrap dress, I would certainly recommend it as a pattern to try.  

My wrap dress wearing days are behind me, due to scoliosis, this is not a flattering look on an asymmetrical body no matter how loud fashion influencers and fashion writers claim it's a miracle garment design.  It's pretty darn close though.  But I digress.  Other than to say, wear whatever you feel good in.  The wrap dresses are not so much doing it now-a-days.  Even so, I could not let the dress go.  It was the fabric.  That gorgeous cotton knit that came from Emma One Sock many moons ago.  Swoonworthy is the fabric.    

I got to work deconstructing the dress to see if I can salvage enough of the fabric to make something that would actually work in the wardrobe these days.  And I came to the conclusion that I need want  another sleeveless polo neck (turtleneck) top.  I cut the pattern pieces so that I could keep the hem from the dress and everything worked out nicely.  I did add a bit more ease to the polo neck (turtleneck) pattern piece and added as much ease as I could at the sides, centre front and back.  That's about it, easy peasy.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came from a company in the U.S.A. before the convicted felon started his trade war with the world and made fabric shopping from the U.S.A. crazy expensive, unless you're a billionaire.  I am not, so no more EOS shopping has been happening the past few years.  The vintage pattern is also a product of the U.S.A. and I'm happy to report it contributed to the local economy.  It came from a Canadian reseller.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were pulled from the stash and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company that now ships from Canada so that we can avoid paying tariffs.  Thank you KATM!   

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and cover stitched

Fabric:  Skirt portion of one wrap dress

Label:  1--"me made" label

Pattern:  Vintage and OOP Vogue 7323, circa 2000.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, seam ripper, fabric scissors, pins, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, regular walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, Janome 1000CP coverstitch machine, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, silk thread for basting, clips, pin cushion, pumpkin spice latte and a wee little break.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Knit Stirrup Pants / OOP Vogue 7630

Last month I made a pair of stirrup pants to wear while doing yardwork and hopefully prevent tick bites.  Yeah, that is a thing now.  But I digress.  The stirrup pants are so comfortable, I've been wanting to make another pair but not for yardwork, just for everyday sort of wear.  

This time around, I used a cotton knit fabric.  I like how they turned out, they feel like they have more ease than the first pair which was made with a non-knit fabric.  I could certainly tighten up that waistband elastic but I'm waiting to try these with the back brace on before I commit to cutting down the elastic.  The pants were shortened just like the first pair.  I did reshape the ankle side widths, used a machine blind hem along the edges and then added the elastic.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric has been in the stash for many years, well before the convicted felon started threatening the world.   It came from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Very Easy Very Vogue pattern is a made in the USA product but did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  It was a vintage find, circa 1989, purchased from a Canadian reseller.  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company.  The scissors used in the making of these stirrup pants are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads and elastic were pulled from the stash, purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.8 metres

Elastic:  0.8 metres

Label:  1--"me made" KATM label

Pattern:  OOP and vintage Vogue 7690, circa 1989

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, scissors, thread clippers, canned air, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, regular presser foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, safety pin, clips and warm milk with honey.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Merino Wool Sleeveless Turtleneck Sweater / OOP Vogue 7323

Out-of-print (OOP) and vintage Vogue 7323 has been in the stash for about a year waiting for a decision on a fabric.  There was enough left-over fabric from this cardigan project to make the sleeveless top.  And now, I have a sweater set.  I didn't set out to make one, but happily, here we are.  

It wasn't all smooth sailing on what looks like a simple project.  The initial plan was to make view B, the turtleneck with long sleeves.  The fact that there wasn't enough fabric to cut all the pattern pieces lead to a plan to use some left-over wool from this sweater for the back and cut the front, collar and sleeves in the ivory wool.  My heart wasn't into a colour-blocking project.  That is when plans changed to sewing view C instead.  

I didn't want a "close-fitting" top with a back zipper.  The centre back seam was removed and cut on the fold easing the pattern piece out one and a half inches from the hemline foldline.  Then I needed to add another 5/8" width to the collar back edges.  The front centre hemline has the same amount of additional ease as the back.  And the waistline curve at the side seams was removed providing even more ease.  

I wasn't sure if the extra ease to the neckline and collar would be enough to eliminate the zipper and make this a pull-over top.  Thankfully, it worked out.  It was however tricky to sew the collar into the neckline.  Would you believe I had to use a seam ripper on the merino wool fabric to correct some puckering?    

All thanks to God, I was able to fix this without stabbing a hole into this beautiful merino wool.  Seriously, all thanks to God.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came into the stash years ago from Winnipeg Sews, a now closed Canadian fabric reseller.  The Vogue sewing pattern is a product of the U.S.A., and is a vintage find dating back to the Clinton era.  It was purchased last year from a Canadian reseller and was not subject to tariffs.  The scissors used to cut the project were made in Taiwan and were purchased from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were all pulled from the stash and were not new purchases.  

 

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Coverstitched

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Pattern:  OOP and vintage Vogue 7323, circa 2000.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, threads, thread clippers, Janome sewing machine 4120 QDC, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, Janome 1000CP Coverstitch machine, iron, iron board, tailor's ham, hand sewing needle and a seam ripper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Trending and Stash Busting: Stirrup Pants / OOP and Vintage Vogue 7630

Honestly, I had no idea that stirrup pants were trending this year.  And I swear I didn't go searching for a stirrup pants pattern to be trendy.  Here in the Canadian prairies, land of sweatpants, jeans, and shorts with t-shirts country, we're not well known for being a trendy or a fashion centre.  

This project ended up on the work table because I am trying to find yardwork clothing that will keep me covered up to, hopefully, prevent tick bites.  Something I can tuck into a pair of work socks and rain boots.  Man, I miss winter.  And words can not adequately express how much I miss the tick free summers of my youth.  But I digress.  This is not a post about climate change.  But here I am sewing clothes because of the effects of climate change.  

History of Stir-up Pants

Stirrup pants are a tapered style of pants with its signature feature of a strap or loop attached to the hem that sits under the foot.  This design feature helps to anchor the pants in place and prevent it from riding upwards.  They became popular as equestrian clothing in the late 19th century and were adopted as women's riding wear in the 1920s.  In the following decade this style of pants moved into other sports, such as skiwear, marked with an appearance in the 1936 Winter Olympics.  

In the 1950s and 1960s, stirrup pants remained in wardrobes moving into casual everyday wear.  

Stirrup pants returned to its athletic roots and reinvented itself into aerobics wear in the 1980s where its evolution continued into a mainstream fashion wear.  The pants became known as a wardrobe staple moving from sports and dance spaces into everyday wear.  

And then it quietly disappeared from our everyday wardrobes, but not for long.  Stirrup pants are showing up on fashion runways and according to British Vogue, stirrup pants "are replacing tailored trousers."  I'm not ready to go that far, these stirrup pants are entering the wardrobe as strictly work pants styled with rubber boots not heels as styled on the fashion runways.  

I was over the moon when I found this vintage pattern, OOP Vogue 7630.  The closest thing to stir-up pants found on the Simplicity website are patterns for leggings.  But there are a lot of stirrup pants patterns found via Etsy and eBay resellers of vintage Burda, Vogue and Kwik Sew patterns from back-in-the-day.  

The fabric is a medium weight woven cotton with some stretch.  The fabric's stretch did not meet the pattern envelope stretch guide suggested amount of stretch, but none the less, this fabric worked out well for the pattern.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a press.  

There were some alterations to the pattern.  They were shortened a lot!  I'm not hitting five feet at this stage of my life's journey and if I wanted the ankle design to work on the stirrup there was some adjustments to be made.  The casing for the elastic was sewn with a one and a half turn down and I used a one and a quarter inch elastic.  I made these in a size sixteen since my fabric didn't meet the recommended stretch and cut the crotch and ankle curve at a size fourteen.  I could have cut the crotch at the size twelve line but instead if I revisit this pattern, I will shorten the crotch length.  Again, Vogue patterns are not designed for the petites in mind.  This pattern did not contain any finished measurements on the pattern pieces and thankfully, the adjustments worked out just fine.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project as the convicted felon throws more tariffs at Canada.  [Insert eye roll here.]  But I again digress.  Everything with the exception of the pattern was found in the stash.  The fabric has been in the stash for years and was found in the discount section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The vintage Vogue pattern, circa 1989, was a recent Etsy find purchased from a fellow Canadian.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The elastic was also pulled out of the stash, not sure where it was purchased, could be Fabricland?  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased from another Canadian Etsy seller.  Side note:  KATM labels are now shipping from Canada--Yippeee!  This means domestic shipping and no extra fees or tariffs to pay.  And the thread, all pulled from the stash, are cotton Gütermann threads and were purchased at Fabricland.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Elastic:  1.10 metres

Pattern:  OOP and Vintage Vogue 7630, circa 1989

Label:  1 -- "MAKE ᐧ WEAR ᐧ WASH ᐧ REPAIR"--KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, walking foot, safety pin, threads, thread clippers, cello music and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: White Linen Shorts / Vogue 9191

I actually made something appropriate for the summer season and the heat.  Well, I actually did start off the month sewing a linen dress.  Now, I'm ending the month with a pair of linen shorts.  Maybe, if I can get out of grubby yardwork clothes, I'll have something I can wear that makes me look like I'm enjoying the summer.  Oh, sometimes I make myself laugh.  I'm actually counting down the days until the first frost and joyfully waiting for that first snowfall.  But I digress.  

An easy peasy sewing project, elastic waist shorts using Vogue 9191.  This is a well drafted shorts pattern and I like the fit.  There were a few changes though.  I lengthened the shorts by three inches and sewed an inch hem.  I also went with a wider elastic than suggested in the pattern.  These are sewn as a size large which would normally end up with a too long crotch length but it worked out in that I have shorts that sit at the waistline instead of just below.  I think I may be revisiting this pattern again.   

The fabric is a medium weight linen.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board.  There was originally 1.3 metres prior to the pretreatment and afterwards there was 1.23 metres.  It was more than enough for the shorts.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  All of the supplies and equipment required to sew this project came from the stash and workspace.  The fabric came from the discounted section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, back-in-the-day when linen went on sale.  The pattern entered the stash during the clearance sale at Fabricland when the big four patterns were discontinued and after Simplicity Patterns was sold to a Private Equity firm.  No tariffs were paid in obtaining the pattern.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Gütermann threads were all pulled from the stash, and were made in Greece.  The elastic was saved and reused from other garment that ended up in the donation bin.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  Vogue 9191, circa 2016

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, washing machine, dryer, safety pin and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up, enjoy a glass of Canadian wine and keep sewing.  

A Toile: OOP and Vintage Vogue 2447 and Vogue 9286

I'm trying to make a toile of an extra long close-fitting pullover top that I can wear under and over the scoliosis brace.  Bonus, if I can make it with short sleeves.  

I thought that the tank top included in Vogue 9286 might be a starting point.  I liked the lower cut neckline in the front.  I cut a size medium and extended the length by ten inches, I might add a couple more inches.  It didn't quite work out as I planned.  It is too wide in the lower section.  I will have to take it in quite a bit if it's going to stay in place when I lift it over the brace.  

I borrow the short sleeve pattern from vintage Vogue 2447 and to my surprise it worked out, fitting without any struggle.  I did lengthen the sleeve an inch and wouldn't mind a bit more length, not much. 

My toile fabric is a lightweight cotton knit and it's not the best option.  Also, I didn't cut this on the cross-grain, something I noticed is done on the Brace Buddies t-shirts, camisoles and body sock.  I will be doing this when I fit the pattern and find a suitable cotton knit fabric.  This won't be a wearable toile, just trying to figure out the fit.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Back to the Cutting Table: Short Leggings / OOP Vogue 1214

The feedback on the bike shorts consisted of

1. The length is too long.  Shorten them another one and a quarter inches.  
2. Insert waistband elastic because they are not staying up.  
3. Raise the height of the center back about a quarter to half an inch.  
4. Don't go down any sizes.  

So, it's back to the cutting table with out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1214 for another go at sewing a pair of short leggings / bike shorts.  This time the project is cut from a black cotton French terry.  The good fabric that I didn't plan on gifting, but here I am gifting it.  It originally came into the stash to sew up some sports bras but it actually worked out perfect for these shorts.  So, I can't be sad about that, but I digress.  

The only changes I made were 1, 3 and 4.  The hem length was shortened another inch for a total of two and a quarter inches from the toile version.  I have an opening in the back waistband to insert elastic but now that is on hold as they are staying up in the French terry fabric.  I did raise the centre back an inch, more than I though I would and they are perfect.  [insert a sigh of relief.]  And they were sewn in the same size as the toile version.  

Sewing IS Political

Of course, this is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time and it came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The printed in the U.S.A. pattern entered the stash in 2010 prior to the global tariff war.  The scissors used to cut the fabric are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads have long been in the stash and were purchased from Fabricland.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Coverstitched

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1214, circa 2010

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, measuring tape, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, hand sewing needle, CoverPro 1000CP machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and ice tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Wrapping Up Me Made May

Reflecting on Me Made May 2026, I thought that it was the same old from years before.  That may be true in the underwear and pajama department.  But looking back to last year, there has been a lot of changes as well.  Many of the me-mades from 2025 are no longer in rotation.  

My favourite Rachel Comey skirts, OOP Vogue 1247, were given away recently and replaced with elastic back versions.  The first Eva dress that I made was recently refashioned into an elastic waist skirt.  After wearing it a couple of times this week, I'm thinking I may have made a mistake.  My cream coloured wool pants didn't see the light in May because it was waiting to be ironed and when I finally got around to it, I noticed little holes happening on one of the side seams.  It's days seem to be numbered.  My favourite DVF wrap dress is sitting near the work table as I contemplate a refashion project.  The Closet Core Ebony t-shirts were given away recently.  The Merchant and Mills Trapeze dress was refashioned into a reusable grocery bag.  Another favourite skirt, OOP Vogue 1378, is sitting in a pile of I-can't-part-with-pieces because it no longer fits.  I also recently said good-bye to my favourite hoodie.  This year's celebration of me-mades was challenging.  

There were many days that I stood in front of my clothes and thought that I have nothing that I can wear.  In reality, the statement should be I have nothing to wear with the back brace.  I'm trying to change that.  I'm actually thinking about breaking out Vogue 8909 and sewing another pair of sweatpants which seem to be the most comfortable pair of pants to wear with the brace.  And I recently found another copy of OOP Butterick 6253 in a larger size combination and there are plans to recreate that favourite hoodie sized to fit over the brace.  

Well, that wraps up another Me Made May. 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Bike shorts / OOP Vogue 1214

There was a request for a pair of bike shorts that came across the worktable.  These are not meant to be seen out in public as they will not be used for biking.  Instead, these shorts will be worn as a layering piece under clothes.  That's the plan.  

This one is, hopefully, a wearable toile.  I'll have to wait for feedback on the fit before proceeding to make these in a better fabric.  

Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1214 was used to make these, shortened, of course, to make it a shorts pattern.  A pair of RTW biking shorts were used as the guide for the length.   I cut these as a size 18 and so far they seem to fit in the waist but they are loose in the leg and actually look like regular shorts, not biking shorts or leggings.  They is no skin hugging in the leg and at the hem.  The initial feedback on the first fitting is to raise the back centre seam about 1/4" and to add some elastic at the waistband.   I would like to try and narrow the width at the hemline.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project. The fabric has been in the stash for years and came from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is a printed in U.S.A. product from 2010, coming into the pattern stash before the convicted felon started a global tariff war.  It did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy or his economic war machine.  The threads were all pulled from the stash, mostly Gütermann threads and came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Cover stitch

Fabric:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1214, circa 2010

Additional Tools and supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, measuring tape, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome CoverPro 1000D machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May Update #3

Not much to report on the Me Made May front as everyday is me made days.  This week, I've been wearing repeats of the previous weeks.  

 

Although, there are some RTW items still lingering in the closet, most of my wears are me made items.  There is only one dress that was a RTW purchase that is now considered vintage and has been re-fashioned to fit my body changes that have occurred since it entered the closet.  It only survived the decades because it's a pullover cotton knit dress when quality natural fabrics ruled the racks. 

I've been on this sewing journey for decades and at this point there is an enormous amount of gratefulness for the ability and equipment to sew what I need.  Me Made May at this point of the journey is a celebration of the skills developed over the years, the knowledge and respect gained for natural fabrics and a new found appreciation of mending.  I didn't always have the appreciation of mending as I do now.  

There is one more week to go until the end of Me Made May and things may look different as hot weather is predicted to come our way.  It might be time to put away the wool and flannel and pull out the hot weather pieces.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing / mending.  

In Sewing News Today

This first week of Me Made May (MMM) flew by in a blink of an eye.  

Top row, L to R:  Toaster sweater by Sew House Seven made in 2026.  A remodel of my favourite skirt pattern Vogue 1247 (front) and vintage Vogue 9918 to make a pull-on elastic back skirt made in 2026.  Black merino wool cardigan made in 2022 with Kwik Sew 4192.  
Middle row:  Wool pull-on pants made in 2026 with Butterick 6717.  Pink pullover dress made with Butterick 6784 in 2025.  A raw silk pullover made with The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern in 2025.  
Bottom row:  Cotton pullover dress made in 2025 with Butterick 6784.  And what I live in most of the time, flannel pajamas.  These two sets are made with Butterick 6296 for the tops and Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  They were made in 2024 and 2022.  

I'm not really photo documenting what I wear this MMM.  I just don't have the time.  Besides, everyday is a "me made" day.  Same old, some new.  May usually means yardwork so I'm wearing grubby "me made" clothes that I don't mind getting dirty.  And then sometimes, I might throw on a dress or dress pants and clean myself up.   

Being May means unpredictability with the weather.  This past week we've seen temperatures one day in the +20 Celsius range as well as snow flakes and near zero temps.  So throw in a mix of cardigans and winter jackets and I do believe I wore a tuque this week.  

In sewing news, I did journey into the Sudoku challenge that ends tomorrow.  I also threw up a white flag and deleted the grid last weekend.  It was more difficult than I could imagine to sew up ten pieces in nine weeks.  I admire those who were able to accomplish all of the sewing and come up with eight cohesive outfits plus photos.  I was two items short when I threw up the white flag.  So close.  It was fun for awhile. 

Now, that I am no longer under a time crunch, I would like to revisit Named Clothing's Anneli top pattern which I made for the Sudoku challenge.  And I have a request for cotton knit cycling shorts to sew.   

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

These me-made sweatpants from 2024 made it to the mending pile because I wanted to replace the cuffs.  There was no ribbing in the stash when I made Vogue 8909 back then and I thought that I could get away with cutting the cuff pattern pieces in the fashion fabric.  It was a mistake.  One that was evident during the construction process.  And it didn't feel right when I wore these otherwise very comfortable pants.  

Today, I finally corrected that mistake and cut out some navy ribbing that has since entered the stash.  

First I had to cut off the cuff at the stitching line.  There was no way I was going to even attempt to remove a knit stitch by hand.  I'm at the stage of life that I am losing height so I don't think I will miss that 5/8" allowance from the leg length.  

Ah, that feels better.  

Elbows up and keep sewing.  
 

Stash busting: Yes!, It's Another Elastic back skirt / OOP Vogue 1247 and Vintage Vogue 9918

The plan to replace out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1247 skirts with the waistband and back zipper continues.  The versions I had once upon a time have found a new home and yes, it was hard to let them go.  These are versions that reflect my new reality and can be worn over the lower part of my back brace.  

This skirt was made with a medium weight 100% cotton fabric that I found in the home décor department.  The design is a combination of OOP Vogue 1247 and vintage Vogue 9918.  The front of the skirt resembles OOP Vogue 1247 and the back is all vintage Vogue 9918.  The front of OOP Vogue 1247 kept the integrity of those lovely pockets.  The front dart were eliminated and the front waist adjusted.  And of course, I lengthened the bottom of the skirt Vogue 1247 but also shortened the hem from the back piece of Vogue 9918.  The skirt hits below the knee.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric is a cotton print found in the home décor department at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  As was the elastic used in this project.  The Vogue patterns, although being products of the U.S.A., did not contribute to the convicted felon's wars or tariff economy.  Vogue 1247 has been in the stash for years and I made the first version in 2012.  Vintage Vogue 9918, circa 1980s, came into the stash in 2023 prior to the global boycott against annexation rhetoric and tariffs.  The threads are cotton Gütermann threads and were labelled as made in Greece.  They were purchased from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, a company from the United Kingdom.  They were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  0.45 metres

Patterns:  OOP Vogue 1247 (circa 2011) and vintage Vogue 9918 (circa 1980s)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, dressing making ruler, curve ruler, pins, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, safety pin, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Elastic back skirt / OOP Vogue 1247 and Vintage Vogue 9918

Since the first one turned out, I cut three more versions.  Here is the first of the lastest versions I am currently working on.  I want to replace my Vogue 1247 (Rachel Comey) skirts with elastic waist versions so I can wear them with the back brace.  The three versions that I previously had in my wardrobe have found a new home.  

There is a wee bit more ease with the versions I am currently working on, a half inch extra ease.  The hem length was extended and an inch and a quarter blind hem was sewn.  Otherwise, it's similar to the first version.  I really hope this is not a cotton and polyester blend because if there is pilling, it will be sad.

The fabric was labeled as a black cotton twill but after cutting the fabric and observing the fraying, I'm starting to suspect a misleading label hiding another fibre in the mix.  I will have to do a burn test to see if my suspicion is correct.  It doesn't feel or sew like other cotton fabrics I have used in the past.  I really hope and pray this is not a cotton / polyester blend which I have sewn in the past and dealt with pilling after a few wears.  I will be sad if that happens with this one since I really like the fit of this skirt.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the required supplies were pulled from the stash.  The fabric and elastic came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue patterns are  made in the U.S.A. items but they did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff and blackmail economy.  Vogue 1247, circa 2011, has been in the stash for years.  Vogue 9918 is a vintage pattern from the 1980s that I picked up from an American reseller in 2023, prior to the convicted felon's 2.0 economic threats against Canada and the resulting boycott.  The cotton Gütermann threads used in the sewing machine was made in Greece and purchased from Fabricland.  I am finding that Fabricland's selection of polyester Gütermann threads made in the USA is expanding and their selection of European made cotton threads is dwindling.  And I've even noticed that some of their stock is void of the country of origin on the label.  Hmmm?  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label was recycled from a previous project.  It originally came from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  0.5 metres

Label:  1--recycled "Me Made" KATM label

Patterns:  OOP Vogue 1247 (circa 2011) and vintage Vogue 9918 (circa 1980s).

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, thread clippers, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, seam ripper and safety pin.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Black Wool Knit Palazzo Pants / OOP Vogue 1334

Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1334 is all about comfort.  It has an elastic waistband that I can slip over the lower part of the back brace.  And I love the wide legs on these palazzo style pants.  It has a retro vibe that remind me of late 1960's Italian fashion and designers like Emilio Pucci.  Minus the vibrant patterned fabric, this pair is all about comfort in a neutral colour.  

This is a Today's Fit pattern by Sandra Betzina.  They actually turned out better than I hoped after reading some insights found on Pattern Review.  I have no dislikes to report.  This is an easy pattern to sew and came together quickly.  I would absolutely recommend this pattern for a beginner willing to give sewing knits a try.  Sandra Betzina lays out different fabric, fit and fabric scenarios to help make this pattern a success.  I highly recommend reading the "Before You Start" section of the pattern instructions. 

The only changes to the pattern was to cut the pants at a size F with the exception of size G at the side seams which I graded back down to F by the notch marking.  I wanted the extra bit of ease since I will be wearing these over the brace.  The hem length were cut at the smallest size.  The elastic width that the pattern calls for is a one inch width but I thought that the crotch length looked too big so I went with a two inch wide elastic.  I could have gone with a one and a half inch elastic if there was any left in the stash.  I was working with what I have on hand.  I would like another pair of these pants (they are that comfortable!) and I do have some gray French terry to make another pair, so I think there might be an elastic run in the near future.  

The photo of my pants do look much wider than the photo on the pattern envelope.  I wonder if this a reflection of the "Make the legs narrower" instructions listed within the "Before You Start" section?  Or maybe the pants on the pattern photo were made in a woven fabric?  Sandra Betzina also outlines how to make the fabric switch.  I wish the patterns would mention what fabric was used in their samples.  Anyway, these are the only things that may explain why there appears to be a difference in the drape and width between this project and the sample photo on the pattern envelope.  

The fabric is a medium weight wool knit and it has a lovely drape.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels. 

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies used to make these pants were found in the stash.  The medium weight merino wool is the same fabric used for this hooded scarf and has been in the stash for a couple of years prior to the convicted felon's tariff war.  It came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue pattern is a recent Etsy purchase from a Canadian reseller.  The threads are Gütermann Threads and have been in the stash for a long time, likely from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors are from Taiwan and were purchased from Fabricland.  The elastic is also came from Fabricland.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4.5 metres (this fabric was 110 cm wide)

Elastic:  1.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1334, circa 2012

Label:  1--"one off" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, cardboard cutting mat (for table extention), pins, wrist pin cushion, paper scissors, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, safety pin and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Elastic Back Skirt / OOP Vogue 1247 and 9918

Redesigning out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1247 skirt pattern into an elastic back version is all about comfort.  With an elastic back waist, there was hope that it can be worn with the back brace.  And I'm thrilled that it worked out.  

There were two patterns, OOP Vogue 1247 and vintage and OOP Vogue 9918, merged to create this skirt.  The front of the skirt with those lovely pockets is cut from Vogue 1247 and the back piece is cut from Vogue 9918.  

There were also several changes to the pattern pieces to make this fit over the lower part of the brace.  The back piece from 9918 was cut as a size 18 and an inch width was added at the centre front.  The front pieces also had an inch width added at the centre front.  The front darts were removed and the waistline adjusted accordingly.  The waistline curve at the front side seam was eliminated and straightened to match the shaping with the back side waist.  There is an added ten inches of length added to the front and the back piece was adjusted to match.  I should add an inch or two to the length on the next version so I could sew a blind hem.  This one is finished with seam binding to keep the length.  The waistband was cut narrower, shorter to fit the front section only and was not interfaced. 

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with stretch.  It's been in the stash for years, many years.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.   

Let's talk about thread for a moment.  I like Gütermann threads, but lately not so much.  Most of the Gütermann threads in the stash are cotton and made in Greece.  Love the quality, there are no complaints with the cotton threads made in Europe. 

But there are some spools that are polyester Gütermann threads in the stash that are the absolute worst for my Janome sewing machines.  The polyester threads entered the stash because I was trying to match colours with a project fabric and they were on sale.  Sometimes a sale is not a good deal even if the colour selection is wonderful.  These spools are made in the U.S.A., very thin / fine and feel like plastic.  When used in any of my sewing machines and serger, I have problems, skip stitches and constantly having to rethread the machines.  It's not a tension or needle issue, I've checked and adjusted and the problems persist.  I wish I checked online before picking these polyester thread spools as I would have discovered that others had issues as well.  And this doesn't seem to be a recent issue according to the two year old Reddit post.  So, I was careful to pick out spools of cotton thread for this project.  Now, what to do with the remaining Gütermann polyester threads in the stash?  Thankfully, there are not a lot of these lingering in the stash.  

 

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  All of the supplies used to make this skirt were found in the stash.  The fabric has been in the stash for a decade and was found at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The elastic was also sourced from Fabricland.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.  They were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue patterns are products from the U.S.A. and are from a pre-Trumpian era, not contributing to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metres

Seam binding:  1.3 metres

Patterns:  OOP Vogue 1247, circa 2011 and OOP Vogue 9918, circa 1980s.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, iron, ironing board, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, seam ripper, thread clippers, measuring gauge, tailor's ham and tea.   

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.