Happy Valentine's Day!

Oh sewing, how I love thee.  Let me count the ways.  

I love thee to the sewing table and back

Reusable grocery bags, OOP McCall's 4851

Even when all I am sewing is a sack.  

Coat, OOP Burda 7304

I love thee freely, as my creativity soars

Sweatpants, OOP Kwik Sew 3663

I love thee purely, as it mends my grief

Covid-19 era scrub caps

I love thee with kindness, as it give me purpose

Boys' Super Mario shirt, OOP Butterick 2122

I love thee quietly in my solitude as I transform fabric into pure joy

Velvet and silk Christmas dress, McCall's 5795

I love thee with a love that is hard to articulate, the calling of the sewing machine is undeniable no matter how late.

DVF designer wrap dress, OOP Vogue 1610

Thank you my love.

Favourite Makes of 2024

I thought I would pop back in and reflect on the top ten list for twenty twenty-four.  

Oh my goodness, Vogue 8909 is such a great pattern!  I made these back in May.  This is the second pair I've made from this pattern.  And I wear these a lot.  It's comfortable to kick around in and I can even dress them up a bit with a nice top to go out and run errands.  They are made with a navy cotton French terry.  

This top has saved me from abrasion wounds in the underarm region while wearing a scoliosis back brace.  It has extra padding in the underarm region.  It was made with out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 2899 and a yellow cotton French terry.  It will have to go down as my favourite makes just on comfort level.  It entered the wardrobe rotation in the end of October and even though I have had this for a short time it quickly became one of the most important pieces in the 2024 wardrobe.  

Is there anything better than wool pieces for survival during a prairie winter?  I do tend to live in ski-pants while outdoors in the winter but sometimes you want to show up at church in something that doesn't make noise when you walk.  I am saving this outfit for such occasions.  The top was made with Sew House Seven's Toaster sweater pattern.  The pull-on skirt is OOP Butterick 5790.  Both pieces were made in October.  

Here is another October make and another Sew House Seven Toaster sweater in merino wool.  It ended up being a wearable toile as I was playing around with an oversized version.  It has since shrunk a bit--an intentional shrinkage and fits much better.   

Oh my goodness, I wish I kept this top!  I made this cotton French terry top with OOP Butterick 5790 back in October when I was much heavier.  Since then I lost quite a bit of weight, although there is more to lose, I am sure that this would fit me today.  This top made it to the favourite list because this was nostalgic sewing.  Back in the day, when I first had a copy of OOP Butterick 5790, this was a favourite pattern and item to wear.  Even though I never got to wear this version of the top, it was fun to revisit this pattern at the time.  

This is a lovely Katherine Tilton design, Butterick 6784.  I made this dress back in April after dreaming of a second version in a cotton for the hot summer that promised to come.  I did wear this dress often during the warmer months, it's comfortable and I adored the print.  It reminds me of the decorative tiles I saw many moons ago in the Azores.  

This wool jacket was a labour of love.  It was made with OOP Vogue 2571.  If you come across this pattern, it is one that I would recommend.  I love that I found some beautiful vintage real wool fabrics at Winnipeg Sews that was unmatched to the wool blend or polyester faux-wool fabrics found in today's retail landscape.  This jacket is unbelievably warm and kept me warm on days that the wind chill hit minus forty-two. I was thrilled that I found leather toggles online before the postal strike.  There is nothing close to the quality of these toggles in the local retail stores here.  I completed this project during the summer before the cold weather arrived.  Just one sad note about this project, Winnipeg Sews, the business that I found this lovely fabric, closed this month.  It is sad to see another resource disappear.  

This butterfly print top was made back in June shortly after I received the scoliosis back brace and was searching for tops that could be worn over the brace.  There was some extra ease added to the back to help it fit over the additional bulk.  The pattern is a much-cherished Katherine Tilton design, OOP Butterick 5891.  

This is another gifted make, a wool winter coat made back in April.  My heart wasn't into making this at the time and it was a real struggle to get it done.  I guess it made the favourite list because of the fabric.  It's made with a beautiful wool find from Winnipeg Sews.  It turned out well , maybe because I've made so many coats (this is the fifth version) using OOP Vogue 8934.  Previous practice helped in getting it done.  

Well, there are my top ten makes of 2024.  Happy New Year! and wishing you joyful sewing in the upcoming year!  

Wool Winter Coat: OOP Vogue 8934

I know it's officially spring and we didn't even feel like we experienced a winter here this year.  And yet I've been busy sewing a winter coat.  This has actually been months in the making.  This wool coat is made with a favourite Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8934.  

 

I may have mentioned in past versions that this coat is a labour of love as there is a lot of basting and hand-stitching involved in the making of this coat.  There are a total of twenty-four hemline darts, a set of eight on the fashion, lining and underlining fabrics.  It's one of my favourite features that gives this coat it lantern effect.  It has hidden buttons and buttonholes and side pockets.   

Fabrics

The fashion fabric for this coat is a previously owned 100% wool coating from Winnipeg Sews.  It's a gorgeous, thick and warm, wine coloured wool.  And it was a fraction of the cost of the wool blend options found new at the local fabric store.  There is no comparison of this fabric to the coating options found in the fabric stores this past winter.  This fabric is of superior quality and is a gem.  It was a pleasure to sew.  

Care was taken with the placement of the pattern pieces as this wool fabric has a nap.  The other kind of nap may or may not have contributed to the lengthy time it took to complete this sewing project.  But I digress.  

The nap, found in the wool coating fabric, is the texture of a fabric with raised fibers going in one particular direction.  The nap can be easily felt by running your hand over the fabric.  If your hand is running downwards "with the nap" it will feel smooth.  Whereas if you run your hand upwards "against the nap" it will feel rough.  The pattern pieces had to be pinned and cut in the same direction downwards "with the nap."  

The coat is lined with a black cotton back satin and underlined with a wind breaking fleece.  Both of these fabrics were in the stash for many moons. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged lining pieces.  Wool did not require serging.  

Fabrics:  6.7 metres

Buttons:  5--1 inch buttons

Sewing Label:  2--1 "Vogue Patterns Designer Original" and 1 KATM "Bespoke" sewing labels.  

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, threads (coat thread for hand stitching facings and buttons, polyester threads for the serger and cotton thread for the sewing machine), Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, buttonhole foot, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, clapper, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, procrastination and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Retro Style: Coat / OOP New Look 6074

I started to cut this project years ago.  It wasn't until recently that I stumbled across the forgotten pattern pieces cut from the coating fabric and finished cutting the lining.   And then I started sewing despite the fact that my serger has been in for repairs for almost a month and I have no idea when it will come out of the shop.  We're waiting for a new needle plate to arrive.  So, I'm sewing retro style, pre-1964 sewing technology.  And it turned out.  Go figure.  

This is a fully lined coat.  The faux lambs wool coating fabric did not fray and the seam allowances were not serged or required any finish.  The cotton back satin lining did fray and the seam allowances were finished with pinking shears.  Retro style.  

Also retro style was the hand worked buttonhole.  The automatic buttonholer on the Janome sewing machine would not handle the thickness of the coat fabric plus the canvas interfacing.  Never mind that it doesn't have the range to sew a button of this width.  The vintage Brother sewing machine might be strong enough to create a buttonhole but the thickness of the fabric wouldn't fit under the presser foot.  So that left me with two options, use a large snap or sew a hand worked buttonhole.  

This hand painted rooster button was the one I really wanted to use so snaps were quickly eliminated as an option.  This lead me to sit down and do some research and reading since it's my first ever hand worked buttonhole.  

This vintage Singer Sewing Library How to Make Buttonholes and Pockets and The Vogue Sewing Book were my go-to resources.  A quick trip to the fabric store for some button and craft thread and I was ready to attempt my first hand finished buttonhole.  

The button was a cherished find that I stumbled upon during a sight-seeing day-trip to Gimli with a dear friend many moons ago.  It was a lone hand-crafted button found at the local quilt shop.  I've held onto this button for years waiting for the perfect opportunity to showcase the rooster design.  The rooster is a national symbol of Portugal and my parent's home country.  Perhaps that explains the attraction to this cherished lone button.  

The Pattern  

Out-of-print (OOP) New Look 6074 was a second hand store find and it's a keeper.  This is a well drafted pattern.  There is a generous amount of ease that will be great for layering this winter.  Best yet, there is enough room for unrestricted arm movement while winter driving.  And I don't mind the dropped shoulders.  I will note the princess seam hits at my natural shoulder length.  

This project was a slow process with lots of hand stitching.  The canvas interfacing was basted in place along with stitching tailor tacks for transferring pattern markings.  I haven't sewn tailor tacks in decades.  Tailor's chalk wouldn't transfer well on the pile of this fabric, so retro style tailor tacks were in order.  It was worth all the little extra steps, I wouldn't have it any other way.  I quite enjoyed sewing this project.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Wool coating fabric is left alone since it doesn't fray.  The lining fabric and front facing were finished with pinking shears.  

Fabric:  3.9 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres tailoring canvas

Button:  1 -- 1 1/2" decorative button

Snap:  1 -- medium sized, black

Pattern:  OOP New Look 6074

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, thimble, button thread, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, polyester thread, steam iron, clapper, pressing cloth, ironing board, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, many breaks for rest and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part I)

The weather is all over the place and so are my clothing choices.  The only consistency in the first part of the Me-Made-May has been a selection natural fibre fabrics and a lot of pull-on clothing items.   

The wrap dress was chosen because of its easy access (no zips or buttons) and short sleeves since I woke up with the cast.  Thankfully, it came off today!  The sweater was worn under a RTW denim jacket because it was cool this morning and only a high of plus ten (Celsius) today.  Once I realized that it was windy, I regretted the decision to wear the wrap dress.  Thank goodness Diane Von Furstenberg designed a dress with ample skirt coverage even for a windy day.  And flannel pajamas because they are just too cozy.  

Wow!  I didn't expect my hand to feel as sore as it did today which surprised me while getting dressed.  Although, it was great not having choice limited to what would fit over the cast. It was all about choosing items without zippers and buttons and dressing in layers that could be peeled off as the weather warmed up throughout the day.  

First time it felt like summer this year!  And that sunshine, woohoo!  No jacket or coat needed today.  Although, I did wear a sweater this morning.  Today's clothing choices were all about avoiding zippers and buttons.  Easy comfortable pull-over or pull-on pieces ruled as me-made picks.   

Spring cleaning and going through the closet to assess what needs fixing or needs to become something new.  Not these me-made pieces, they were perfect to throw on and get to work.  

Today's me-mades were all about being comfortable for a pretty low key day at home and running errands.  

This is not the whole picture.  This morning was dedicated to yardwork and for that I wore RTW clothing (jeans and a sweatshirt).    

It was another low key day close to home and running errands.  I wore a RTW jean jacket when out-and-about but it did not feel warm enough for the cloudy day.  Rain is in the forecast for the next few days and the warmth of the sun is already missed.  The Tulip Dress is the only item worn this week that has a back zipper.  Thankfully, it is not needed.  I can wear it as a pull-on dress.  

Rainy and cold day calls for flannel, tweed and a sweater.  

What I've discovered so far?  I want another pair of flannel pajamas in the mix.  And I really would like to have another pair of Vogue 9246 pants maybe in a wool suiting fabric.  I'm not sure when I will find the time to get on those wish list items though.  Right now there are a couple of projects for others on the worktable.  But only time will tell.  

Until then, Happy Sewing!  

  

Year in Review...

Twenty-twenty-two flew by and even though at times I felt like I wasn't sewing that much, I'm kinda shocked that a hundred sixteen projects came off the machine this year.  Mind you many of those were small projects like various bags and hats and scarves.  

• Fifty-one (44%) of these projects were donated or gifted.  
• Eight projects (6%) didn't work out as planned.  
• 117.1 metres of fabric were stash busted in 2022
• 17 reusable grocery bags were sewn in anticipation of the single use plastic bag ban that came into effect this year.  These bags was the most popular sewing project of 2022 and many were gifted after some people saw and liked them.  

Well, here's a closer look back at the time at the sewing machine this past year including December's projects.  

Have a Happy New Year!  And wishing you a productive and creative 2023 in the sewing workspace.  

January

Reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), Men's shirt (McCall's 2447), Remote control caddy (no pattern used), 3-layer cotton face masks (Dhurata Davies), Waterfall Coat (Butterick 6244)

January's sewing projects were all about finding a distraction and trying to get promised projects done.  All projects, except for the reusable grocery bags, were gifted.  

February

Diane Von Furstenberg Designer Wrap Dress (OOP Vogue 1610), Robe (OOP Simplicity 6851), Pajama Bottoms (OOP Vogue 9217) and Men's Pants (OOP Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973)

During the month of February there was some gift sewing and a couple of projects for moi.  I was blessed to sew an authentic DVF wrap dress pattern, circa 1977.  I can cross that one off my sewing bucket list.  And on the third version of the robe, I finally got the button placement right.  It was a good month for sewing and mending.  

March

Unfinished jean jacket (OOP Butterick 6373), wool and cotton knit socks (The Wolf and The Tree, Going Rogue Socks), DVF wrap dress in black sweater knit  and cotton knit (OOP Vogue 1610), cotton knit top (OOP Simplicity 2372), table runner (no pattern used), reusable grocery bag (OOP McCall's 4851)

March was a mix of charity, gift, selfish sewing and one Lent sewing project for the church.  The highlight of the sewing this month would have to be socks, so many socks!  I made a batch of wool socks for moi and a batch to be gifted.  Oh and a version of the DVF wrap dress that I saved for Easter Sunday mass not anticipating a snow storm that would happen and would nix those plans.  

April 

Cotton print top (OOP Butterick 5891), reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851) and French terry cardigan / jacket (Butterick 6495)

I wonder if April blizzard warnings will also bring May flowers?  Maybe it was all the unpredictable weather that zapped my sewing mojo this month?  

May

Wool sweater (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), 2 cotton slips (OOP Kwik Sew 3645), Men's denim pull-on pants with front facing leg pockets (OOP Kwik Sew 3663), Pear print dress (Tessuti patterns Eva dress), shirt (McCall's 7940), dress (OOP Simplicity 2372)

Thankfully, there were no more blizzard warnings this month.  Instead, it was replaced with lots of rain!  That meant staying indoors and sewing, most of the projects sewn this month were gifted to others.  

June

Yellow and gray reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), flannel pajama set (Butterick 6296 and Vogue 9217), bag (no pattern used)

Summer officially arrived and most of my free time is dedicated to yardwork and avoiding mosquito bites.  There was some gardening and planting of squashes, tomatoes, herbs and sunflowers that took me away from sewing.  And my simple life is reflected in my sewing projects, no fancy sewing found here.  

July

DVF Wrap dress (OOP and vintage Vogue 1610), Donna Karan shorts (OOP and vintage Vogue 2092), failed attempt at recreating RTW culottes (OOP McCall's 6748)

During the month of July, I was able to squeeze in a little bit of sewing in between yardwork and gardening.  The pants and the shorts were made with thoughts of cycling more than materialized.  Maybe next month?  

August

Scarf (no pattern used), cell phone cover (no pattern used), reuseable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), black and white jacket (OOP Vogue 8430), floral gathered empire waist girl's dress (OOP New Look 6493), girl's reversible dress (OOP Vogue 1455), failed attempt at culottes (OOP Vogue 9091), failed attempt at recreating a RTW t-shirt (OOP Vogue 8582) 

Mid-August my sewing move into high gear with the start of Pattern Reviews stash-busting contest.  All of these fabrics have been in the stash for years, some even decades.  Four items were gifted, two for moi didn't work out to be wearable.  

September

Waterfall coat (Butterick 6244), failed attempt at culottes (Vogue 9246), flannel pajamas (OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851 and OOP Simplicity 2372)

September was not the most successful sewing month.  The pants were way too big, the waterfall coat was not warm enough, the gifted pajama set was stressful with indecisiveness and complaints along the way.  Yup, sometimes sewing for others can be stressful.  

 

October 

Flannel pajama set (Butterick  6296, Simplicity 2372 and Vogue 9217), plaid pull-on and elastic back pants (OOP Butterick 6717), plaid scarf (no pattern used), finally, a successful pair of culottes (Vogue 9246), bag (OOP McCall's 4851), pull-on and elastic back pants (OOP Butterick 6717)

October was a mixed bag of sorts.  There were sewing bloopers and success stories.  Half of the sewing projects were gifted.  

November

Wool scarves (no pattern used), hats / tuques (The Littlest Studio, free PDF tuque pattern), wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), cotton knit top (OOP Simplicity 2372), polyester knit sweater (OOP Simplicity 8529), half-slip (OOP Butterick 5790), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and wool pants (OOP Butterick 6717)

Most of November's sewing projects were about filling needs.  All the hats, except for one, were sewn for the church which put out a call for hats and scarves for newcomer families.  The other hat was gifted as was the short-sleeve t-shirt.  The cardigan is a replacement for the one I made in the spring but recently gave away to someone in need.  

December

Second attempt at recreating a RTW T-shirt (OOP Vogue 9057 / reissued as Vogue 1733), knit front knotted top, (OOP Vogue 2925), a little girl's velveteen and silk Christmas dress (OOP McCall's 5795 / available as a digital download) and a black knit maxi-skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) 

I would have probably sewn more if sewing time was not interrupted by a Colorado low that brought several days of snow that needed to be cleared right before Christmas!  

Happy Sewing! 

The Sewing Oops & Blooper List of 2022

1.  Pullover sweater.  

This project made it to the sewing mistake list because of the fabric, it's a polyester.  The pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8529, is a keeper.  The polyester was a failure on so many levels.  It didn't hold up during the first wash and came out with more drape.  And it's only a couple of months old and has been worn a few times so why is it already starting to pill?  Oh yeah, it's a polyester.  That's what polyester does.   This sewing blooper was made in November.  

2.  The slip.  

This project would be perfect if I worked with the stretch!  What was I thinking?  I should have cut this on the cross grain.  This sewing blooper happened in November. 

3.  The Collarless Pajama Top

Yes, I actually forgot to sew the collar.  It really wasn't an intended design feature.  This sewing blooper appeared in October.  

4.  Way-too-big Pants

It took two tries to get the size right on Vogue 9246.  This gigantic sewing blooper happened in September.  

5.  The Tweed Coat

Funny how I love this pattern made up in the boiled wool fabric.  But this cotton tweed was just too lightweight and frumpy for a coat.  I haven't worn it out once since making it in September.  

6.  The Yellow Top

My first attempt at recreating a favourite RTW t-shirt was way too tight and never made it into the wearable pile.  I made this in September.  

7.  Pull-on pants.  

This was another attempt at copying a RTW item.  It was a fail because of the fabric.  Even though I did try to wear this a couple of times, it just didn't feel comfortable at all.  This sewing project happened in July.  

8.  The Jean Jacket

I never finished this project but that didn't stop me from wearing it out in public for a short time until a secondhand jacket replaced it.  There were so many sewing bloopers with this one, even the sleeves that were shortened ended up being too long.  I tried to make this denim jacket in March.  

9.  Denim Pants.  

This project makes it to the mistake list because of the poor fabric choice that I made.  The black denim was too stiff for this project.  This sewing blooper occurred in August.  

10.  The Llama print DVF Wrap Dress

This version of the DVF wrap dress, vintage Vogue 1610, and I have not parted ways.  It is still part of my me-made wardrobe and I do like it.  But oh my, the sewing bloopers did not escape this project!  And I should have know better because this was not the first go at this pattern.  In the end, I had to abandon the side pockets, one of the design features that I adore.  Sewing bloopers plagued this project back in July.  

Happy Sewing!  

And Happy Boxing Day!