Stash busting: Another Curtain Project

Here's the latest curtain project.  I really like this blue printed cotton fabric.  The plan was to turn this fabric into a dress with my eye on McCall's 8090.  And then once again, plans changed.  The fabric was used for a set of kitchen curtains.  The lightweight 100% cotton fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer and was ready to hit the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric has been in the stash before the convicted felon's tariff and trade war.  These are times for sewing the stash or just plain reconsidering a project as fabric prices continue to increase.  Even threads are hit with price increases that makes one reconsider colour matching.  A close enough colour of thread will do just fine, as in this case (blue thread for top-stitching and beige threads for the serger).  The fabric was an end of the season discounted item from many moons ago.  I found this fabric at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Gütermann threads were pulled from the stash and also came from Fabricland.  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet. 

Project details

Seams / Top-stitching:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:   2.5 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, ruler, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up, support local businesses and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: New Curtains

This is a simple project after measuring and cutting out the fabric.  This gifted project came to be after it was spotted in the stash and dreams of new curtains started to materialize.  I, on the other hand, saw this fabric at the store as a potential coating toile fabric or perhaps some more reusable grocery bag fabric.  The curtain project won in claiming this fabric.  And I think they turned out lovely, so I am glad that plans changed along the way.  

The fabric was a discounted bargain find in the home décor department.  It was such a great bargain that I bought the remaining bolt deciding that I will figure out its future at a later time.  It now looks like another set of curtains will be made with the remaining yardage.  The curtains are fifty-four inches long, have a two inch hem on the bottom and a three inch opening on top for the curtain road.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  Everything used to make these curtains were found in the stash.  The fabric was a bargain find in the home décor section at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  No pattern needed but the measuring tools used to measure the fabric has been in the stash for years, circa pre-Trumpian economic warfare.  The scissors used to cut the fabric are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads are all Gütermann threads pulled from the stash.  

Project details

Seams / Topstitching:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, rulers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome 2000D AirThread serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and a good cup of Canadian coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

Back in January, I made this top and it hung in the closet until it was reluctantly moved to the donation pile.  And that made me sad because it's made with the most gorgeous silk.  I pulled it out of the donation pile this weekend trying to save it from that horrible decision.    

You see, I thought that if I made it oversized that I would get a lot of wear while wearing the back brace.  And then the back brace was modified and I no longer have a piece of hard plastic riding up my left underarm.  Ahhh, the freedom!  

So I thought, if I just create a centre back pleat maybe it would be a better fit?  

It turned out to be a simple fix and for the first time in a long time, it's back in rotation.  I'm grateful that I was able to rescue this one.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep mending.  

Trending and Stash Busting: Stirrup Pants / OOP and Vintage Vogue 7630

Honestly, I had no idea that stirrup pants were trending this year.  And I swear I didn't go searching for a stirrup pants pattern to be trendy.  Here in the Canadian prairies, land of sweatpants, jeans, and shorts with t-shirts country, we're not well known for being a trendy or a fashion centre.  

This project ended up on the work table because I am trying to find yardwork clothing that will keep me covered up to, hopefully, prevent tick bites.  Something I can tuck into a pair of work socks and rain boots.  Man, I miss winter.  And words can not adequately express how much I miss the tick free summers of my youth.  But I digress.  This is not a post about climate change.  But here I am sewing clothes because of the effects of climate change.  

History of Stir-up Pants

Stirrup pants are a tapered style of pants with its signature feature of a strap or loop attached to the hem that sits under the foot.  This design feature helps to anchor the pants in place and prevent it from riding upwards.  They became popular as equestrian clothing in the late 19th century and were adopted as women's riding wear in the 1920s.  In the following decade this style of pants moved into other sports, such as skiwear, marked with an appearance in the 1936 Winter Olympics.  

In the 1950s and 1960s, stirrup pants remained in wardrobes moving into casual everyday wear.  

Stirrup pants returned to its athletic roots and reinvented itself into aerobics wear in the 1980s where its evolution continued into a mainstream fashion wear.  The pants became known as a wardrobe staple moving from sports and dance spaces into everyday wear.  

And then it quietly disappeared from our everyday wardrobes, but not for long.  Stirrup pants are showing up on fashion runways and according to British Vogue, stirrup pants "are replacing tailored trousers."  I'm not ready to go that far, these stirrup pants are entering the wardrobe as strictly work pants styled with rubber boots not heels as styled on the fashion runways.  

I was over the moon when I found this vintage pattern, OOP Vogue 7630.  The closest thing to stir-up pants found on the Simplicity website are patterns for leggings.  But there are a lot of stirrup pants patterns found via Etsy and eBay resellers of vintage Burda, Vogue and Kwik Sew patterns from back-in-the-day.  

The fabric is a medium weight woven cotton with some stretch.  The fabric's stretch did not meet the pattern envelope stretch guide suggested amount of stretch, but none the less, this fabric worked out well for the pattern.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a press.  

There were some alterations to the pattern.  They were shortened a lot!  I'm not hitting five feet at this stage of my life's journey and if I wanted the ankle design to work on the stirrup there was some adjustments to be made.  The casing for the elastic was sewn with a one and a half turn down and I used a one and a quarter inch elastic.  I made these in a size sixteen since my fabric didn't meet the recommended stretch and cut the crotch and ankle curve at a size fourteen.  I could have cut the crotch at the size twelve line but instead if I revisit this pattern, I will shorten the crotch length.  Again, Vogue patterns are not designed for the petites in mind.  This pattern did not contain any finished measurements on the pattern pieces and thankfully, the adjustments worked out just fine.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project as the convicted felon throws more tariffs at Canada.  [Insert eye roll here.]  But I again digress.  Everything with the exception of the pattern was found in the stash.  The fabric has been in the stash for years and was found in the discount section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The vintage Vogue pattern, circa 1989, was a recent Etsy find purchased from a fellow Canadian.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The elastic was also pulled out of the stash, not sure where it was purchased, could be Fabricland?  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased from another Canadian Etsy seller.  Side note:  KATM labels are now shipping from Canada--Yippeee!  This means domestic shipping and no extra fees or tariffs to pay.  And the thread, all pulled from the stash, are cotton Gütermann threads and were purchased at Fabricland.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Elastic:  1.10 metres

Pattern:  OOP and Vintage Vogue 7630, circa 1989

Label:  1 -- "MAKE ᐧ WEAR ᐧ WASH ᐧ REPAIR"--KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, walking foot, safety pin, threads, thread clippers, cello music and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

It didn't take long for the refashioned slip to end up on the mending pile.  After trying it on with this dress, it became evident that it needed to be shortened.  Just a turn up, press and then top-stitched in place with the knit stitch on the sewing machine.  

And this gifted slip came back to be taken in at the side seams.  I thought I copied the toile version, not quite sure what went wrong.  The side seams were taken in at 3/4" and serged for a three inch total reduction in the width.  

Stash busting: White Linen Shorts / Vogue 9191

I actually made something appropriate for the summer season and the heat.  Well, I actually did start off the month sewing a linen dress.  Now, I'm ending the month with a pair of linen shorts.  Maybe, if I can get out of grubby yardwork clothes, I'll have something I can wear that makes me look like I'm enjoying the summer.  Oh, sometimes I make myself laugh.  I'm actually counting down the days until the first frost and joyfully waiting for that first snowfall.  But I digress.  

An easy peasy sewing project, elastic waist shorts using Vogue 9191.  This is a well drafted shorts pattern and I like the fit.  There were a few changes though.  I lengthened the shorts by three inches and sewed an inch hem.  I also went with a wider elastic than suggested in the pattern.  These are sewn as a size large which would normally end up with a too long crotch length but it worked out in that I have shorts that sit at the waistline instead of just below.  I think I may be revisiting this pattern again.   

The fabric is a medium weight linen.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board.  There was originally 1.3 metres prior to the pretreatment and afterwards there was 1.23 metres.  It was more than enough for the shorts.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  All of the supplies and equipment required to sew this project came from the stash and workspace.  The fabric came from the discounted section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, back-in-the-day when linen went on sale.  The pattern entered the stash during the clearance sale at Fabricland when the big four patterns were discontinued and after Simplicity Patterns was sold to a Private Equity firm.  No tariffs were paid in obtaining the pattern.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Gütermann threads were all pulled from the stash, and were made in Greece.  The elastic was saved and reused from other garment that ended up in the donation bin.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  Vogue 9191, circa 2016

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, washing machine, dryer, safety pin and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up, enjoy a glass of Canadian wine and keep sewing.  

Throwing up the White Flag: Simplicity 9372

Simplicity 9372 came into the stash because I was smitten over the look of the wrap shrug.  And then it sat waiting for me to decide on the right fabric.  This cotton lace knit was just the fabric to motivate me to give this pattern a try.  

I will admit that I wasn't impressed with the pattern as soon as I slipped it out of the envelope.  The first thing I noticed is how thin the instruction sheet paper was to the touch.  Not a big deal just something I noticed.  It wasn't the quality or weight of older pattern instruction sheets.  It was more of a cultural nod to shrink and skimp-flation.  And then I unfold the pattern paper sheets and noticed that the printing was non-existent at certain spots across the sheets of tissue paper.  I was not at all impressed.  How a printed pattern ended up in a pattern envelope in this condition is beyond me, where's the quality control?  Oh yeah, we're living in the age of shrink and skimp-flation.  

I'm not so smitten with this wrap shrug now that it's all sewn up.  It's a meh item that ended up in the donation box.  I cut the bodice piece as a size small because I'm not tall and thought it would be too long.  That was a mistake.  I wish it was wider, it could have been if I cut a large.  The picture on the envelope looked wider than the one I made.  But don't let my experience with this pattern discourage you if you're into the nineteen nineties revival that seems to be trending now-a-days, then maybe give it a try.  Who knows, you may have a better experience with this pattern.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric came from Lilax Studio, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern, Simplicity 9372, was released prior the convicted felon's global tariffs.  It was purchased from Simplicity's website and has been sitting in the stash until I could decide on a fabric for this project.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were pulled from the stash and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  Simplicity 9372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep on sewing.  

All Set in the Sock Department

I know that most of the country is dealing with heat warnings and wildfire smoke but all of these weather conditions just make me long for winter while no summer sewing has captivated my sewing mojo.  I'm counting down the days to hurry up and get to that first snow fall when forest fire, tick and mosquito season is finally and officially over.  

So, I've been busy in preparation of those glorious days of winter.  The final three pair of tights were refashioned into knee high socks.  They were cut at a desirable length and finished with a machine rolled hem on the serger.  I'm officially all set in the sock department.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep on sewing.  

Stash busting: A New Blanket

More practical sewing has hit the worktable, this time a new blanket.  This fabric entered the stash last year and a bit of it was used to make this skirt.  And then quite a bit a whole lot of yardage sat in the stash.  It was on sale, in the bargain section.  But I digress.  There was once a thought to make this Pace Cardigan to match the skirt and then plans changed.  The skirt has since been donated.  And the fabric sat in the stash until today.  Yes, that's right, in the middle of summer during heat warnings, I decided to turn this fabric into a blanket.  

When cooler temperatures arrive, this one will replace this blanket that I made last year which has not held up well.  We'll have to wait and see how this new blanket holds up.  

Sewing IS Political 

This is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All the tools and supplies used to make this project were found in the stash.  The fabric and threads came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The clips were made in Taiwan and purchased at Lilax Studio, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

The scissors used on this fabric are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams / finish:  Rolled hem 

Fabric:  4 metres

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, fabric clips, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

A Toile: OOP and Vintage Vogue 2447 and Vogue 9286

I'm trying to make a toile of an extra long close-fitting pullover top that I can wear under and over the scoliosis brace.  Bonus, if I can make it with short sleeves.  

I thought that the tank top included in Vogue 9286 might be a starting point.  I liked the lower cut neckline in the front.  I cut a size medium and extended the length by ten inches, I might add a couple more inches.  It didn't quite work out as I planned.  It is too wide in the lower section.  I will have to take it in quite a bit if it's going to stay in place when I lift it over the brace.  

I borrow the short sleeve pattern from vintage Vogue 2447 and to my surprise it worked out, fitting without any struggle.  I did lengthen the sleeve an inch and wouldn't mind a bit more length, not much. 

My toile fabric is a lightweight cotton knit and it's not the best option.  Also, I didn't cut this on the cross-grain, something I noticed is done on the Brace Buddies t-shirts, camisoles and body sock.  I will be doing this when I fit the pattern and find a suitable cotton knit fabric.  This won't be a wearable toile, just trying to figure out the fit.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: New Cotton Knit Slip / Kwik Sew 3645

Another cotton knit slip is hot off the worktable.  After some much appreciated feedback on the toile, it is time to make another.  

Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 3645 turned out to be a perfect pattern for this project.  The request was for a undershirt / tank top style strap.  The pattern is designed as sleepwear but it also turned out to be perfect option for sewing a slip.  The changes made on the toile were repeated here; shortened the shoulder seam by three-quarters of an inch, straightened and shortened the hemline and added about two inches extra ease from the hemline by pivoting from the centre back and front neckline points.  I transferred all the changes to the copied pattern piece.  The pattern pieces were cut two inches shorter and three quarters of an inch at the shoulder seam.  Now the pattern can be considered a true and tested pattern.  

The armholes and neckline were finished with Knit 'N Stable tape, serged and then folded over and top-stitched using the knit stitch on the sewing machine.  The hem was turned up an inch, basted and cover stitched.  

This fabric has been in the stash for decades and was purchased at the same time as the floral print knit used for the toile slip.  I bought them together thinking that they would be the fashion and lining fabric for a wrap dress and then plans changed.  It was nice to finally stash bust this fabric and at the same time a bit sad because working with it, it became obvious that this is a fabric from a by-gone era.  They don't sell cotton knit fabric of this exceptional quality now-a-days.  ~sigh~  I was careful to set aside the remnants with plans to cut underwear pattern pieces for a future sewing project.  But I digress.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a spin in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made sewing project.  The fabric came from Fanny Fabrics many moons ago prior to the global tariff war.  Fanny Fabrics is a now closed Canadian Fabric outlet.  The pattern, OOP Kwik Sew 3645, was recently purchased from an American Ebay seller.  The original copy of the pattern that was in the stash is lost.  And sometimes when you are sewing for someone you love, you just sometimes have to forget the boycott for a moment.  There was a search for a Canadian seller who might have this pattern listed but I came up empty.  I tried.  The threads used in the machines and for hand basting were all found in the stash and were purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  Same with the basting tape.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Cover stitch

Fabric:  2.0 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645, circa 2012

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, pencil, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome CoverPro 1000CP, Janome 2000D serger, threads for the machines and basting, hand sewing needle, screwdriver, tweezers, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and ice tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Refashioning: Slips

A cotton full length slip no longer works as such, so it made it onto the cutting table for a quick refashion.  It was all about saving that lovely cotton knit fabric.  It is really comfortable to wear.  

It was cut just above the waistline, serged and then onto the ironing board to press down a one inch casing.  It was finished by inserting a three quarter inch elastic.  Easy peasy.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Refashioning: Tights

So what would you do with a whole bunch of tights that you no longer wear?  

Personally, I wouldn't mind some knee high socks.  

Cut them at the desired length and 

finish the edges with a rolled hem stitch.  And there you have it, new socks.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Linen Dress / OOP Butterick 6784

This project is the story of absolute procraftination.  It started with out-of-print (on the Simplicity website) OOP Butterick 6784, a much adored Katherine Tilton design.  I have to note here that this pattern is still available on Pattern Review and via online sellers.  

I have a few versions of this dress, it's that comfortable and it has pockets.  Back in July of last year, I cut out four versions and by September I managed to sew three of them.  And then this one sat in the pile of cut out projects waiting to be sewn as winter settled onto the landscape.  It wasn't the time for a lovely linen dress.  Then other sewing requests pushed their way to the top of the pile.  Of all of the versions I made this past year, one would think that the orange coloured version would be the one sewn first just because,

This orange linen fabric has been in the stash for so long, I'm tempted to call it vintage linen.  I made another dress out of this fabric close to a decade ago and at that point this fabric had been aging in the stash for many years.  It was back-in-the-day when Fabricland put their linen in the discount section at the end of the summer season and you could pick up a bargain.  Oh, those were the days.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the cutting table.      

Let's talk about this pattern.  I do adore a Tilton design, they have been some of my favourite projects and this one is no exception.  Every time I pick up a Tilton pattern from the stash, I'm sad that Butterick and Vogue are no longer carrying their designs.  Out-of-print (on the Simplicity website, currently still available on Pattern Review) Butterick 6784 is one well-drafted pattern and it is a fun make.  Why the procraftination?  Oh yes, the changing seasons.  But I digress.  Only one notable change to the design, the hem length was shorten by two inches once it was pieced together and then a one and a half inch top-stitched hem was sewn.  There was the omission of the small band petal shaped collar pieces.   

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, many moons ago.  The sewing pattern appeared in the stash before the elbows up movement.  The scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased online.  

The 100% cotton threads used in the serger and sewing machine were Gütermann threads from Germany and Coats and Clark quilting cotton threads from Eygpt and many moons ago, were picked up from Fabricland.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Label:  1--"Me Made" label from Kylie and the Machine (KATM)

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020.  Out-of-print from the Simplicity website.  This pattern is still available from Pattern Review.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pen, Post It! notes, measuring tape, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, pin container, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many cups of tea and some procraftination.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Lost and Found: OOP Kwik Sew 3645

This cotton knit slip is made with out-of-print Kwik Sew 3645.  A few years ago, this pattern was in the stash and I made a couple of camisoles.  They didn't work out.  And then I made a couple of cotton slips.  There were no more requests for another slip until a couple of months ago and that is when I discovered the pattern is lost and hidden somewhere in the stash.  

I was able to find another copy of it from Textile Ward.  And it's been over forty days since I ordered the pattern and let's just say, WORSE SERVICE EVER.  There was an initial confirmation that the order was being processed and then nothing.  No notification that the order is on it's way and no response to inquiries.  I don't recommend Textile Ward based on this experience.  

I then found another copy of OOP Kwik Sew 3645 on Ebay and this was the copy that arrived this week and allowed me to get to work on this project.  First, there was some modifications based on the last version I made.  More ease, lengthen the hem and in a knit fabric.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades.  I recently used some of the yardage to test out a top pattern.  It is a light-weight cotton knit.  There are plans to make another slip after I received some constructive feedback on this one.  

As for the pattern, I'm putting this in a safe place.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made product.  I broke the boycott in my search for OOP Kwik Sew 3645, see above to find out how that worked out.  Although, the copy from the Ebay seller was a positive experience.  The fabric came from Fanny Fabrics, a long-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were all pulled from the stash.  The cotton thread used in the sewing machine is Gutterman and was made in Greece.  The threads used in the serger and coverstitch machines are Surelock brand for Coasts & Clark and were made in India.  The scissors used to cut out the project are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finishes:  Serged and coverstitched.  

Fabric:  1.05 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645, circa 2012

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, Burda tracing paper, pencil, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome CoverPro 1000CP machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham and few breaks.  

Stand strong, elbows (back) up and keep sewing!

Fabric Focus: Linen

Photo credit:  Baird McNutt Irish Linen.  The Flax Plant.

Linen is a fabric woven from the flax plant and is often used for church linens, household goods and clothing.  It has a long history and it can be argued that it's the oldest fabric.  Archeologists discovered wild flax fragments that had been twisted and dyed in pre-historic cave dwellings in the Caucasus mountains.  These are estimated to be over 30 000 years old.  Linen is mentioned in the bible and is considered the symbol of purity and holiness.  And it's still treasured today.  It's a wonderful fabric to sew.  But as all fabrics, there are pros and cons depending on how you want to use this fabric.    

The Many Positive Aspects of Linen

1.  It's a natural fibre which gives linen inherent hypoallergenic features.  This fabric is a good choice for people with sensitive skin and / or allergies.  Linen is gentle on the skin and it is a breathable fabric.  This breathability allows for proper airflow reducing the accumulation of sweat and bacteria growth.  It also wicks moisture away from the skin aiding in the prevention of bacteria, fungi and dust mites.  Let's just call it a super hero fibre for those of us who are prone to respiratory or skin conditions.  

2.  Just like people, linen improves with age.  The fibres soften over time, maturing into a softer and more comfortable fabric.  This desirable durability makes this a sustainable textile.  Linen is an investment that becomes better over time and eliminates the need for frequent replacements.  Linen is a super hero fibre for the environment as well.  

3.  Let's talk about linen's ability for temperature control and regulation feature.  Most often, people assume that linen is a warm weather textile but linen is suitable for all year use.  The natural fibres provide insulation in cooler weather.  Layering linen provides a comfortable barrier that traps heat without overheating.  In the summer, linen is a good choice for it's breathability.  Linen wicks moisture and allows for airflow.  

4.  Longevity is a something that is well noted with linen, out shining other natural fibres like cotton.  Linen garments can survive frequent washing and wear while keeping their structure.  Household linens can last for decades.  Compared to synthetic fabrics that weaken over time and washing, linen improves with age (see number 2).   It's long lifespan makes linen a cost-effective investment.  

What About the Cons Associated with Linen?

5.  Let's start with the cost.  In the age of inflation, global conflicts, fast-fashion and the race to the bottom, natural fibre fabrics like linen are getting harder to A) find and B) afford.  There seems to be a larger selection of linen blends at the fabric store to reduce costs / maximize profits.  If you're looking for 100% linen, be prepared to pay a premium in today's market.  The durability, breathability and the other positive features does offset the upfront expense over time.  But in today's economic climate the upfront cost may be hard to swallow.  

6.  If wrinkles bother you, maybe this might not be the fabric for you.  Personally, I think it's part of it's charm and beauty.    

7.  Linen demands your time in it's care.  Linen should be washed in cold water with gentle detergents.  Dry your linen with caution because high heat can cause the fibres to shrink.  I suggest hanging to dry.  Avoid chemicals like bleach.  Let's talk about ironing, this need to iron linen if you want to remove the wrinkles can be a real turn off for some.

It really is a wonderful fabric to sew.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Anneli Tee / Named Clothing Patterns

Now that the toile version of the Anneli Tee has been out for a couple of wears, fabric for a second version made it to the cutting table.  And sewn.  

This is one comfortable tee and it does satisfy my love for a wrap design and plays into the ability of styling it with brooches.  The colour of this tee will be perfect to wear with a vintage lemon print skirt I found many moons ago.  And with a little more ease added at the back, it can be worn comfortably over the back brace if I chose a different separate to wear with it.  

Other than the extra ease, I cover stitched the edged of the neckline and shortened the length by two inches.  Oh and the neckband was stitched with a half inch allowance.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free garment.  The pattern is by Named Clothing and was purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric has been in the stash for years and came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project were made in Taiwan and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  Most of the threads were pulled from the stash and purchased from Fabricland many moons ago.  The exception were Mettler threads for the cover stitch machine.  They were made in Europe and purchased at Lilax Studio, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were picked up online.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged, Coverstitched

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Anneli Double Front Dress & Tee by Named Clothing

Label:  1--"Look After Me" label by KATM

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, fabric scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome 1000CP CoverPro machine, Janome 2000D AirThread serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, iron and ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's ham and seam ripper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

I do like soccer and that even spills over into my sewing but not recently even with the World Cup in play.  The last time I made something soccer related was this Euro Cup dress a decade ago.  And a soccer print face mask during the pandemic.  Both pieces of clothing are no longer in rotation.  

This mask was made with the Dhurata Davies pattern.  Highly recommended pattern but hopefully we won't need to sew these again and our pandemic era is behind us all.  

I made this knit dress, a Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print Vogue 9130, in celebration of Portugal's advancement in the 2016 Euro tournament.  But this year, I'm not really into watching the tournament after Ronaldo's surprising visit to the White House, even though there are three co-hosts of this year's tournament.  There is just something about this year's soccer festivities that doesn't excite the sewing mojo of previous tournaments.  

There is still sewing going on.  Last summer, I cut out several versions of another Tilton pattern, OOP Butterick 6784 and I didn't get around to sewing the final version.  An orange linen version before the seasons changed.  I think it's about time I got to work on this latest version.  Besides, 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Scoliosis Awareness Month

June is Scoliosis Awareness Month.  And scoliosis has presented challenges both in my sewing journey and in getting dressed.  Oh, the stories I can tell!  

What is scoliosis?  

Simply put scoliosis is a three dimensional spinal deformity.  A spinal curve (C or S shaped) will only qualify as scoliosis if it measures ten degrees or greater on an X-ray.  It involves not only a curve but also a rotation of the spine.  It is estimated that 2% of the global population have scoliosis.  And there are different types of scoliosis.  Feel free to read more if you're interested.  

Detection

Once upon a time, many decades ago, Canada screened school aged children for scoliosis.  Sadly, that stopped in the 1980s.  But there is an easy detection and it doesn't require the Adams Forward Bend test.  

Clothes don't fit.  They just don't hang evenly.  Of course, RTW clothes don't fit, a curved spine, an uneven shoulder, uneven hips, uneven waist create changes in posture, movement and walking gait.  RTW clothes are designed for the other 98% of the global population.  Our curvy shapes are one of a kind.  Luckily, for there is a company that can create a dress form for our unique curvy shapes.  

What to Wear?

First, wear a green ribbon this month for support and to help spread awareness.  

Second, wear what is comfortable.  Period.  Scoliosis sucks when it comes to finding clothes that fit in the ready-to-wear environment.  Although, I do have a few suggestions.  I've said it before and I'll say it again, Brace Buddies is a wonderful company that makes comfortable t-shirts for wearing under a brace.  My other suggestion is wear natural fibre fabrics.  

Sewing has been a blessing and a challenge.  But let's face it, sewing pattern companies cater to the same 98% of the global population that the RTW market does.  

I have a great deal of gratitude for the designs created by Marcy and kAtheRine Tilton over the years.  They are my most cherished patterns in the stash.  Many of their patterns had an asymmetric design that made me feel comfortable when I wear them.  It is sad that Vogue and Butterick no longer carry their designs.  I'm not sure what is happening over at the Simplicity patterns other than the patterns I used to source at my local fabric outlet is disappearing.  

There are some sewing resources that address adapting sewing patterns for some fitting issues caused by scoliosis.  Most commonly addressed is the uneven shoulder issue but I haven't found any suggestions for fixing patterns to account for uneven hips.  Like I said, sewing for someone with scoliosis is both a blessing and a challenge.  And 100% worth the effort.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.