Lost and Found: OOP Kwik Sew 3645

This cotton knit slip is made with out-of-print Kwik Sew 3645.  A few years ago, this pattern was in the stash and I made a couple of camisoles.  They didn't work out.  And then I made a couple of cotton slips.  There were no more requests for another slip until a couple of months ago and that is when I discovered the pattern is lost and hidden somewhere in the stash.  

I was able to find another copy of it from Textile Ward.  And it's been over forty days since I ordered the pattern and let's just say, WORSE SERVICE EVER.  There was an initial confirmation that the order was being processed and then nothing.  No notification that the order is on it's way and no response to inquiries.  I don't recommend Textile Ward based on this experience.  

I then found another copy of OOP Kwik Sew 3645 on Ebay and this was the copy that arrived this week and allowed me to get to work on this project.  First, there was some modifications based on the last version I made.  More ease, lengthen the hem and in a knit fabric.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades.  I recently used some of the yardage to test out a top pattern.  It is a light-weight cotton knit.  There are plans to make another slip after I received some constructive feedback on this one.  

As for the pattern, I'm putting this in a safe place.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made product.  I broke the boycott in my search for OOP Kwik Sew 3645, see above to find out how that worked out.  Although, the copy from the Ebay seller was a positive experience.  The fabric came from Fanny Fabrics, a long-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were all pulled from the stash.  The cotton thread used in the sewing machine is Gutterman and was made in Greece.  The threads used in the serger and coverstitch machines are Surelock brand for Coasts & Clark and were made in India.  The scissors used to cut out the project are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finishes:  Serged and coverstitched.  

Fabric:  1.05 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645, circa 2012

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, Burda tracing paper, pencil, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome CoverPro 1000CP machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham and few breaks.  

Stand strong, elbows (back) up and keep sewing!

Fabric Focus: Linen

Photo credit:  Baird McNutt Irish Linen.  The Flax Plant.

Linen is a fabric woven from the flax plant and is often used for church linens, household goods and clothing.  It has a long history and it can be argued that it's the oldest fabric.  Archeologists discovered wild flax fragments that had been twisted and dyed in pre-historic cave dwellings in the Caucasus mountains.  These are estimated to be over 30 000 years old.  Linen is mentioned in the bible and is considered the symbol of purity and holiness.  And it's still treasured today.  It's a wonderful fabric to sew.  But as all fabrics, there are pros and cons depending on how you want to use this fabric.    

The Many Positive Aspects of Linen

1.  It's a natural fibre which gives linen inherent hypoallergenic features.  This fabric is a good choice for people with sensitive skin and / or allergies.  Linen is gentle on the skin and it is a breathable fabric.  This breathability allows for proper airflow reducing the accumulation of sweat and bacteria growth.  It also wicks moisture away from the skin aiding in the prevention of bacteria, fungi and dust mites.  Let's just call it a super hero fibre for those of us who are prone to respiratory or skin conditions.  

2.  Just like people, linen improves with age.  The fibres soften over time, maturing into a softer and more comfortable fabric.  This desirable durability makes this a sustainable textile.  Linen is an investment that becomes better over time and eliminates the need for frequent replacements.  Linen is a super hero fibre for the environment as well.  

3.  Let's talk about linen's ability for temperature control and regulation feature.  Most often, people assume that linen is a warm weather textile but linen is suitable for all year use.  The natural fibres provide insulation in cooler weather.  Layering linen provides a comfortable barrier that traps heat without overheating.  In the summer, linen is a good choice for it's breathability.  Linen wicks moisture and allows for airflow.  

4.  Longevity is a something that is well noted with linen, out shining other natural fibres like cotton.  Linen garments can survive frequent washing and wear while keeping their structure.  Household linens can last for decades.  Compared to synthetic fabrics that weaken over time and washing, linen improves with age (see number 2).   It's long lifespan makes linen a cost-effective investment.  

What About the Cons Associated with Linen?

5.  Let's start with the cost.  In the age of inflation, global conflicts, fast-fashion and the race to the bottom, natural fibre fabrics like linen are getting harder to A) find and B) afford.  There seems to be a larger selection of linen blends at the fabric store to reduce costs / maximize profits.  If you're looking for 100% linen, be prepared to pay a premium in today's market.  The durability, breathability and the other positive features does offset the upfront expense over time.  But in today's economic climate the upfront cost may be hard to swallow.  

6.  If wrinkles bother you, maybe this might not be the fabric for you.  Personally, I think it's part of it's charm and beauty.    

7.  Linen demands your time in it's care.  Linen should be washed in cold water with gentle detergents.  Dry your linen with caution because high heat can cause the fibres to shrink.  I suggest hanging to dry.  Avoid chemicals like bleach.  Let's talk about ironing, this need to iron linen if you want to remove the wrinkles can be a real turn off for some.

It really is a wonderful fabric to sew.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Anneli Tee / Named Clothing Patterns

Now that the toile version of the Anneli Tee has been out for a couple of wears, fabric for a second version made it to the cutting table.  And sewn.  

This is one comfortable tee and it does satisfy my love for a wrap design and plays into the ability of styling it with brooches.  The colour of this tee will be perfect to wear with a vintage lemon print skirt I found many moons ago.  And with a little more ease added at the back, it can be worn comfortably over the back brace if I chose a different separate to wear with it.  

Other than the extra ease, I cover stitched the edged of the neckline and shortened the length by two inches.  Oh and the neckband was stitched with a half inch allowance.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free garment.  The pattern is by Named Clothing and was purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric has been in the stash for years and came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project were made in Taiwan and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  Most of the threads were pulled from the stash and purchased from Fabricland many moons ago.  The exception were Mettler threads for the cover stitch machine.  They were made in Europe and purchased at Lilax Studio, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were picked up online.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged, Coverstitched

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Anneli Double Front Dress & Tee by Named Clothing

Label:  1--"Look After Me" label by KATM

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, fabric scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome 1000CP CoverPro machine, Janome 2000D AirThread serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, iron and ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's ham and seam ripper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

I do like soccer and that even spills over into my sewing but not recently even with the World Cup in play.  The last time I made something soccer related was this Euro Cup dress a decade ago.  And a soccer print face mask during the pandemic.  Both pieces of clothing are no longer in rotation.  

This mask was made with the Dhurata Davies pattern.  Highly recommended pattern but hopefully we won't need to sew these again and our pandemic era is behind us all.  

I made this knit dress, a Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print Vogue 9130, in celebration of Portugal's advancement in the 2016 Euro tournament.  But this year, I'm not really into watching the tournament after Ronaldo's surprising visit to the White House, even though there are three co-hosts of this year's tournament.  There is just something about this year's soccer festivities that doesn't excite the sewing mojo of previous tournaments.  

There is still sewing going on.  Last summer, I cut out several versions of another Tilton pattern, OOP Butterick 6784 and I didn't get around to sewing the final version.  An orange linen version before the seasons changed.  I think it's about time I got to work on this latest version.  Besides, 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Scoliosis Awareness Month

June is Scoliosis Awareness Month.  And scoliosis has presented challenges both in my sewing journey and in getting dressed.  Oh, the stories I can tell!  

What is scoliosis?  

Simply put scoliosis is a three dimensional spinal deformity.  A spinal curve (C or S shaped) will only qualify as scoliosis if it measures ten degrees or greater on an X-ray.  It involves not only a curve but also a rotation of the spine.  It is estimated that 2% of the global population have scoliosis.  And there are different types of scoliosis.  Feel free to read more if you're interested.  

Detection

Once upon a time, many decades ago, Canada screened school aged children for scoliosis.  Sadly, that stopped in the 1980s.  But there is an easy detection and it doesn't require the Adams Forward Bend test.  

Clothes don't fit.  They just don't hang evenly.  Of course, RTW clothes don't fit, a curved spine, an uneven shoulder, uneven hips, uneven waist create changes in posture, movement and walking gait.  RTW clothes are designed for the other 98% of the global population.  Our curvy shapes are one of a kind.  Luckily, for there is a company that can create a dress form for our unique curvy shapes.  

What to Wear?

First, wear a green ribbon this month for support and to help spread awareness.  

Second, wear what is comfortable.  Period.  Scoliosis sucks when it comes to finding clothes that fit in the ready-to-wear environment.  Although, I do have a few suggestions.  I've said it before and I'll say it again, Brace Buddies is a wonderful company that makes comfortable t-shirts for wearing under a brace.  My other suggestion is wear natural fibre fabrics.  

Sewing has been a blessing and a challenge.  But let's face it, sewing pattern companies cater to the same 98% of the global population that the RTW market does.  

I have a great deal of gratitude for the designs created by Marcy and kAtheRine Tilton over the years.  They are my most cherished patterns in the stash.  Many of their patterns had an asymmetric design that made me feel comfortable when I wear them.  It is sad that Vogue and Butterick no longer carry their designs.  I'm not sure what is happening over at the Simplicity patterns other than the patterns I used to source at my local fabric outlet is disappearing.  

There are some sewing resources that address adapting sewing patterns for some fitting issues caused by scoliosis.  Most commonly addressed is the uneven shoulder issue but I haven't found any suggestions for fixing patterns to account for uneven hips.  Like I said, sewing for someone with scoliosis is both a blessing and a challenge.  And 100% worth the effort.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Back to the Cutting Table: Short Leggings / OOP Vogue 1214

The feedback on the bike shorts consisted of

1. The length is too long.  Shorten them another one and a quarter inches.  
2. Insert waistband elastic because they are not staying up.  
3. Raise the height of the center back about a quarter to half an inch.  
4. Don't go down any sizes.  

So, it's back to the cutting table with out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1214 for another go at sewing a pair of short leggings / bike shorts.  This time the project is cut from a black cotton French terry.  The good fabric that I didn't plan on gifting, but here I am gifting it.  It originally came into the stash to sew up some sports bras but it actually worked out perfect for these shorts.  So, I can't be sad about that, but I digress.  

The only changes I made were 1, 3 and 4.  The hem length was shortened another inch for a total of two and a quarter inches from the toile version.  I have an opening in the back waistband to insert elastic but now that is on hold as they are staying up in the French terry fabric.  I did raise the centre back an inch, more than I though I would and they are perfect.  [insert a sigh of relief.]  And they were sewn in the same size as the toile version.  

Sewing IS Political

Of course, this is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time and it came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The printed in the U.S.A. pattern entered the stash in 2010 prior to the global tariff war.  The scissors used to cut the fabric are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads have long been in the stash and were purchased from Fabricland.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Coverstitched

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1214, circa 2010

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, measuring tape, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, hand sewing needle, CoverPro 1000CP machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and ice tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Wrapping Up Me Made May

Reflecting on Me Made May 2026, I thought that it was the same old from years before.  That may be true in the underwear and pajama department.  But looking back to last year, there has been a lot of changes as well.  Many of the me-mades from 2025 are no longer in rotation.  

My favourite Rachel Comey skirts, OOP Vogue 1247, were given away recently and replaced with elastic back versions.  The first Eva dress that I made was recently refashioned into an elastic waist skirt.  After wearing it a couple of times this week, I'm thinking I may have made a mistake.  My cream coloured wool pants didn't see the light in May because it was waiting to be ironed and when I finally got around to it, I noticed little holes happening on one of the side seams.  It's days seem to be numbered.  My favourite DVF wrap dress is sitting near the work table as I contemplate a refashion project.  The Closet Core Ebony t-shirts were given away recently.  The Merchant and Mills Trapeze dress was refashioned into a reusable grocery bag.  Another favourite skirt, OOP Vogue 1378, is sitting in a pile of I-can't-part-with-pieces because it no longer fits.  I also recently said good-bye to my favourite hoodie.  This year's celebration of me-mades was challenging.  

There were many days that I stood in front of my clothes and thought that I have nothing that I can wear.  In reality, the statement should be I have nothing to wear with the back brace.  I'm trying to change that.  I'm actually thinking about breaking out Vogue 8909 and sewing another pair of sweatpants which seem to be the most comfortable pair of pants to wear with the brace.  And I recently found another copy of OOP Butterick 6253 in a larger size combination and there are plans to recreate that favourite hoodie sized to fit over the brace.  

Well, that wraps up another Me Made May. 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Bike shorts / OOP Vogue 1214

There was a request for a pair of bike shorts that came across the worktable.  These are not meant to be seen out in public as they will not be used for biking.  Instead, these shorts will be worn as a layering piece under clothes.  That's the plan.  

This one is, hopefully, a wearable toile.  I'll have to wait for feedback on the fit before proceeding to make these in a better fabric.  

Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1214 was used to make these, shortened, of course, to make it a shorts pattern.  A pair of RTW biking shorts were used as the guide for the length.   I cut these as a size 18 and so far they seem to fit in the waist but they are loose in the leg and actually look like regular shorts, not biking shorts or leggings.  They is no skin hugging in the leg and at the hem.  The initial feedback on the first fitting is to raise the back centre seam about 1/4" and to add some elastic at the waistband.   I would like to try and narrow the width at the hemline.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project. The fabric has been in the stash for years and came from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is a printed in U.S.A. product from 2010, coming into the pattern stash before the convicted felon started a global tariff war.  It did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy or his economic war machine.  The threads were all pulled from the stash, mostly Gütermann threads and came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Cover stitch

Fabric:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1214, circa 2010

Additional Tools and supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, measuring tape, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome CoverPro 1000D machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

This cardigan sweater was a fairly recent make that ended up on the mending pile to have the neckline binding stitched down.  The bulk at the corners were too much to sit flat despite steam pressing.  Tools used:  Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine and the knit stitch setting, Jean-a-ma-jig, walking foot, threads, thread clippers.  

A fitted sheet made it to the mending pile instead of the mattress when a tear was discovered while making the bed.  Tools used:  Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine and the darning stitch, cotton thread and thread clippers.  

This dress wasn't in the mending pile, actually, I pulled it from the donation bag.  This will explain all those wrinkles.  I couldn't let it go, I adore the fabric and the lantern shaping of the skirt.   

I pulled the dress on, one last time, for old time sake.  I resigned to the observation that the upper part of the dress was a wee bit too tight.  And then the idea emerged as I admired the pockets on this dress, could I turn it into a pull-on skirt?  

Yes, I can!  Tools used:  seam ripper, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, 3/4" wide elastic, iron, ironing board, safety pin and measuring tape.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May Update #3

Not much to report on the Me Made May front as everyday is me made days.  This week, I've been wearing repeats of the previous weeks.  

 

Although, there are some RTW items still lingering in the closet, most of my wears are me made items.  There is only one dress that was a RTW purchase that is now considered vintage and has been re-fashioned to fit my body changes that have occurred since it entered the closet.  It only survived the decades because it's a pullover cotton knit dress when quality natural fabrics ruled the racks. 

I've been on this sewing journey for decades and at this point there is an enormous amount of gratefulness for the ability and equipment to sew what I need.  Me Made May at this point of the journey is a celebration of the skills developed over the years, the knowledge and respect gained for natural fabrics and a new found appreciation of mending.  I didn't always have the appreciation of mending as I do now.  

There is one more week to go until the end of Me Made May and things may look different as hot weather is predicted to come our way.  It might be time to put away the wool and flannel and pull out the hot weather pieces.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing / mending.  

Me Made May Update

It briefly snowed yesterday morning [shaking head], the weather is all over the place and so is my Me Made May selection.  Don't be fooled with that white, orange and black t-shirt in the mix, I just needed a short sleeve top to wear that day.  There was a wool cardigan and RTW jean jacket over top to keep the morning chill at bay.  

Top row, L to R:  sweatpants, circa 2024 (Vogue 8909); flannel pajamas, circa 2024 (Butterick 6296 and Vogue 9217); t-shirt, circa 2023 (Vogue 9057); t-shirt, circa 2026 (Named Clothing, Anneli top).  
Lower row, L to R:  wool toaster sweater, circa 2026 (Sew House Seven); pull-on elastic back skirt, circa 2026 (Vogue 1247 and 9918); cotton pull-over top, circa 2026 (Butterick 5561) and wool top, circa 2025 (Style Arc, Elita top).  

A true representation of which me-made items I wore this past week would include these pull-on jeans and this patchwork sweatshirt that have become my yardwork outfit.  There was a bit of time spent doing yardwork this week instead of sewing.  I do have two pairs of cotton me-made yardwork pants somewhere but during the seasonal changeover I haven't came across them yet.  So I'm currently in the process of ruining my jeans.  And my plaid wool pants.  

This week's me-made picks were all about easy pull-on or pullover comfortable options that were easy to layer.  There was one thing missing that I wanted to wear, a jacket that can fit over the back brace.  The issue is trying to fit my arm into the left sleeve where the hard plastic rides up towards my underarm.  Maybe it might be time to think about breaking out Vogue 2571 to make a spring / fall version.  Perhaps, a quilted version?  Or a denim version.  Or a quilted denim version?  Hmmm, something to consider as a future project.  

Me Made May Editing

Right now, editing is still in progress, I'm trying to decide what is worth keeping in the undergarment department.  I moved past traditional bras long ago without sewing one while on this sewing journey.  I'm now living through a sports bra era and Jalie 3679 is still sitting here waiting to be sewn.  It might be waiting a bit longer as other projects are jumping queue.  

The big question during Me Made May is do I really need to hold onto pantyhoses and tights if they can't be worn with the back brace?  Since pantyhose and tights are apparently having a bit of a resurgence in fashion after being replaced with the legging / jegging era, what to do with the ones I have in my drawers?  I'm thinking if I can find some silicone grip elastic without paying tariffs and breaking the boycott, I would try to refashion tights into stay-up stockings.  

Well, that is all in sewing news today.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

This first week of Me Made May (MMM) flew by in a blink of an eye.  

Top row, L to R:  Toaster sweater by Sew House Seven made in 2026.  A remodel of my favourite skirt pattern Vogue 1247 (front) and vintage Vogue 9918 to make a pull-on elastic back skirt made in 2026.  Black merino wool cardigan made in 2022 with Kwik Sew 4192.  
Middle row:  Wool pull-on pants made in 2026 with Butterick 6717.  Pink pullover dress made with Butterick 6784 in 2025.  A raw silk pullover made with The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern in 2025.  
Bottom row:  Cotton pullover dress made in 2025 with Butterick 6784.  And what I live in most of the time, flannel pajamas.  These two sets are made with Butterick 6296 for the tops and Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  They were made in 2024 and 2022.  

I'm not really photo documenting what I wear this MMM.  I just don't have the time.  Besides, everyday is a "me made" day.  Same old, some new.  May usually means yardwork so I'm wearing grubby "me made" clothes that I don't mind getting dirty.  And then sometimes, I might throw on a dress or dress pants and clean myself up.   

Being May means unpredictability with the weather.  This past week we've seen temperatures one day in the +20 Celsius range as well as snow flakes and near zero temps.  So throw in a mix of cardigans and winter jackets and I do believe I wore a tuque this week.  

In sewing news, I did journey into the Sudoku challenge that ends tomorrow.  I also threw up a white flag and deleted the grid last weekend.  It was more difficult than I could imagine to sew up ten pieces in nine weeks.  I admire those who were able to accomplish all of the sewing and come up with eight cohesive outfits plus photos.  I was two items short when I threw up the white flag.  So close.  It was fun for awhile. 

Now, that I am no longer under a time crunch, I would like to revisit Named Clothing's Anneli top pattern which I made for the Sudoku challenge.  And I have a request for cotton knit cycling shorts to sew.   

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Anneli Tee / Named Clothing Patterns

This double front t-shirt by Named Patterns has become my new favourite top pattern.  Here is the description found inside the pattern instructions:

The Anneli pattern includes two variations:  A straight, ankle-length jersey dress and a casual t-shirt.  Both variations have a round neck finished with a neckband and a double-layered front which creates an interesting wrap effect.  The dress is sleeveless and you can tie a belt at the waist.  The t-shirt is hip-length and has loose-fitting sleeves.  

It is so comfortable to throw on and wear over the back brace.  It is exactly what I've been looking for in a t-shirt.  And this pattern is so easy to sew.  I am already planning another one.  I will fan out the lower centre back next time, just for a little more ease.  If I am not wearing the back brace, the extra ease is not needed.  The pattern is perfect and well drafted.  The seam allowance on the pattern is 3/8" which I followed with the exception of the neckband.  It was sewn with a 1/2" allowance.  It appears a wee bit narrower than intended but I'm good with the look and how it fits.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades.  I actually purchased four metres of this light-weight cotton knit with thoughts of sewing a wrap dress.  My wrap dress wearing days are long behind me, so the fabric lingered until I could figure out what to do with it.  It ended up being a good toile fabric for the Anneli pattern.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  The fabric was hiding in the stash for decades and came from Fanny Fabrics, a long closed down Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is from Named Clothing, a Scandinavian company.  And I picked up this printed copy via The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut out the fabric were from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and also came from The Workroom.  The threads were what I could find already in the stash, there was an assortment of white Coats and Clark and Gütermann threads that were made in Mexico and Greece.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Coverstitched.  

Fabric:  1.15 metres

Pattern:  Anneli (Double Front Dress & Tee) from Named Clothing's "Playground Collection"

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, assorted heavy objects to use as pattern weights, pins, pin cushion, paper scissors, fabric scissors, seam ripper, tweezers, threads, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome 1000 CP CoverPro machine, Janome 2000D AirThread serger, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.   

Stash busting: Lightweight Wool Toaster Sweater

This is another Toaster Sweater that I made to go with this skirt.  In reality, it will go with a few more pieces in the closet.  Bonus:  it is oversized, so, it can be worn over the back brace.  

There are two Toaster Sweater patterns in the stash, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8529 and this Sew House Seven version.  This one has a cuff-less sleeve and the finish on the neckline is quite nice.  Even though both patterns are by Sew House Seven, this version is my favourite.  The sweater was cut as a size 20 on the sides.  The length on the sleeves were shortened.  That is about it.  

The fabric is a lovely lightweight wool knit from Winnipeg Sews.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and the dryer.  I know, gasp!  Thankfully, it survived the pre-treatment.  It's soft and I will be taking greater care going forward.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  Most of the supplies needed to sew this project were found in the stash.  The previously mentioned fabric was in the stash for a few years and came from a now-closed Canadian fabric reseller.  The pattern is from an American independent pattern designer and came into the stash prior to the convicted felon and his cohort starting a global tariff war and disrespectful rhetoric.  Therefore, the pattern did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff economy. 

The label is from KATM, an Australian company.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads are a recent purchase since I didn't have any threads that were close in colour to the fabric.  For the sewing and CoverPro machines, I ended up going with Coats and Clark cotton thread which were made in Mexico.  The threads for the serger are Gütermann threads.  All of the threads came from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and cover stitched.  

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Sew House Seven's Toaster Sweaters

Label:  1--"Made with love" KATM label

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, assorted heavy objects used as pattern weights, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, threads, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, Janome CoverPro 1000CP, tweezers, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, basting thread, iron, ironing board, heating pad, many breaks, and tea. 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

These me-made sweatpants from 2024 made it to the mending pile because I wanted to replace the cuffs.  There was no ribbing in the stash when I made Vogue 8909 back then and I thought that I could get away with cutting the cuff pattern pieces in the fashion fabric.  It was a mistake.  One that was evident during the construction process.  And it didn't feel right when I wore these otherwise very comfortable pants.  

Today, I finally corrected that mistake and cut out some navy ribbing that has since entered the stash.  

First I had to cut off the cuff at the stitching line.  There was no way I was going to even attempt to remove a knit stitch by hand.  I'm at the stage of life that I am losing height so I don't think I will miss that 5/8" allowance from the leg length.  

Ah, that feels better.  

Elbows up and keep sewing.  
 

Stash busting: Black Cotton Pants / Butterick 6717

The latest version of Butterick 6717 was given a little more ease at the sides to see if they will fit more comfortably over the lower part of the back brace.  

And it worked!  There was also a little more ease added at the inner leg near the crotch area.  The length was shortened as well.  The hem lengths differ because of the shortness of one leg, all thanks to scoliosis.  But I didn't want to commit to a one inch hem because the shoes that I will wear with these have not been adjusted for the height difference.  This will give me the option to fix the hem if I loosen the purse strings for the shoes adjustments.  But I digress.  I left off the pockets on this pair, with the hard plastic of the brace it won't be an easy feature to use.  I'm just happy that I can wear these with the back brace.  

I used a printed copy of this pattern which I picked up years ago.  It is currently only available in PDF format.  I'm not a fan of PDF format patterns and I would have skipped this pattern if it were the only option back then.  I grateful to have the printed copy, the pattern for the pants is wonderful.  I like the dart free front and the elastic back is comfortable to wear.  I also like the shape of the leg.  

The fabric was labelled as a 100% cotton, I'm not a 100% sure about that claim.  I guess time will tell in how it wears.  It is the same fabric that I used to make this skirt.  It was pre-washed before hitting the cutting table and ironing board.  

Sewing IS Political

This project is another Canadian and tariff free creation.  All of the supplies required to make the pants were found in the stash.  The fabric came into the stash via Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The elastic is Tailor brand and was made in China and also came from Fabricland.  The cotton thread used in the sewing machine is from Gutermann threads and was made in Greece.  The threads used in the serger are a combination of Gutermann threads and H.A. Kidd, a Canadian company, and were labelled as made in China.  All of the threads were purchased from Fabricland.  The scissors used to cut this project were made in Taiwan and purchased from Fabricland.  Butterick 6717, is an American product that entered the stash in twenty twenty-two before the convicted felon's resumed his tariff war on the world.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6717, circa 2019

Label:  1--KATM label

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, screwdriver, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, safety pin, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, threads, back brace and tea.  

Stand Strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Gift Sewing: Cardigan / OOP Butterick 5760

It's been a few years since I made a cardigan with out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5760.  The last time I made one was in 2018.  And then another request came for one with pockets and more ease.  I'm not quite sure what happened to my original copy of the pattern, lost in time I guess.  So I felt very grateful that I found an uncut copy of this pattern through a reseller.  

There were a few more changes to the pattern this time around.  The shoulders, armhole and neckline were cut at a size fourteen.  The sides were cut at a size twenty-two and the lower centre back was fanned out from the neckline to the hem on the centre fold to give a little more ease.  The sleeves and bodice pieces were shortened.  And front patch pockets were added.  

The fabric is a bonded knit that I found at Marshall Fabrics and one that has been seen before.  I used this fabric to make this top.  I found that this fabric worked best with OOP Butterick 5760.  It was a lovely fabric for the cardigan.  The fabric was previously pre-treated and ready for the cutting table.  There is still a couple metres left so there may be another appearance in the future.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  Everything used to make this cardigan, except for the pattern, was found in the stash.  The fabric, as previously mentioned, came from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The out-of-print pattern, circa 2012, is a product of the U.S.A but did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff econony.  I found the new copy of the pattern through a Canadian reseller.  The scissors used to cut this project were made in Taiwan and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The cotton thread used in the sewing machine is Gütermann threads and were made in Greece.  The threads used in the serger were from H. A. Kidd, a Canadian company and they were made in China.  All of the threads were purchased from Fabricland.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.6 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5760, circa 2012

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, paper scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Jean-a-ma-jig®, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, iron, ironing board, measuring gauge, clapper, sleeve roll, good tunes and tea.  

Elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: And Then There Were Two

There was just enough cotton knit left over to sew one more body sock.  And a head band.  

Now that I have two extra body socks made, the original ones from Brace Buddies were shortened, basted and cover stitched.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Coverstitched

Fabric:  1 metre

Pattern:  None used for the head band, the body sock was copied from the original Brace Buddies

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, straight ruler, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, hand sewing needle, silk thread for basting, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, lint brush, screwdriver, tweezers, threads, Janome CoverPro 1000CP, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Elbows up and keep sewing.