Stash busting: Wool Pin-striped Vest / Butterick 6745

This vest will match the recently made pants.  

Unfortunately, it does not fit.  I just have the buttons and buttonholes left to do, but I'm not going to proceed.  I'm writing this as a proceed with caution post.  

I can't close the front at the waistline regardless that my waist measurement is two inches less that the written measurement on pattern piece 10, front.  The bust fits at the front princess seam but is too large at the sides and the armhole is too big,  This is not a good fit at all.  I can wear this by closing the top with a brooch and leaving the bottom open.  But I wouldn't wear it with the pants made in the same wool suiting fabric, it's just too short for my liking.  Maybe, over a dress with the brooch?  Oh well, not all sewing projects work out as planned.  This is the first time sewing Butterick 6745 and it's likely the last time.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  All the supplies and equipment used to sew this vest were from the stash and did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

My heart again broke watching the news this past week, like most days.  That's wrong, watching on the news what happened in Minneapolis and the callous rhetoric that followed, my heart was crushed. Sewing did not comfort me, it is a distraction and a poor one at that.  Keep protesting peacefully and safely, keep boycotting and most of all keep taking care of yourself and others.  

The fabric used to make this vest came from the stash and had been there many years.  The British 100% wool suiting fabric is the same used for these pants.  It came from Mitchell Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet that closed down many years ago.  The 100% silk lining fabric was found in the home décor department of Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The fusible interfacing from the stash, was found at Fabricland as well.  The designed and printed in the U.S.A. pattern, Butterick 6745, entered the stash when Fabricland was selling off their stock of patterns when they were sold into liquidation due to tariffs.  It was an elbows down moment that I do regret.  The fabric scissors used to cut the wool and silk fabrics are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric scissors used to cut the fusible interfacing was made in Tiawan and were found at Fabricland.  The Gutermann threads were made in Greece and were found at Fabricland.  

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Lining:  1 metre

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6745, circa 2021

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, fabric scissors, thread clippers, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, tweezers, iron, ironing board and water.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part IV)

 

I'm not feeling my best and when it comes to picking out something from the closet I'm just looking for loose fitting items.  

It's getting hot  outside with plus thirty temperatures.  If I didn't have a follow-up doctor's appointment regarding my wrist I would stay indoors the whole day.  

Another hot day calls for loose-fitting shorts and a short sleeve t-shirt (RTW) to run out for a physio appointment.  Still not feeling great and after physio and errands it was into a robe and early to bed.  

I did manage to get in a short walk this morning and then the rest of the day was spent still not feeling my best.  Another early-to-bed day and rotating the heat pad from various body parts.  

Don't be fooled with the wool cardigan, it was another hot day that I spent in an air conditioned environment.  

I managed to get a walk-in appointment and yup, still not feeling well.  Thankfully, I was able to fill a new prescription and will soon be on the mend.  And then maybe my me-made picks won't be so boring?  I feel like this little exercise has become Me-Made-Jammies instead of Me-Made-May.  

Most of the week they are calling for rain and thunderstorms so this morning looks like my chance to get some grass cutting done.  RTW jeans and an old me-made t-shirt (not shown) to do yardwork before changing into these me-mades.  

Well, so much for those thunderstorms the weather channels and evening news were predicting.  It was a sunny hot day spent indoor in the air conditioning.  My clothing choices reflect the need for loose-fitting comfortable pieces rather than dressing for the heat.  

Top 5: Goals

 

Top 5 Goals: Who knows what 2021 will hold, but we can still set some small or large goals for ourselves. A little bit of sewing every week, taking an online class or attending an online event, learning a new skill, or using that precious fabric! The possibilities are endless.

Sew one more pair of jeans. These were made with Butterick 5682 and TNT pattern that I plan to revisit. I would love to sew a pair of black denim ones but I was using that piece of cloth for face masks, hopefully there is enough yardage for a pair of jeans.   

I have been on a journey to sew a car coat.  This New Look pattern is the second go at this wish item.  

I've out-grown my denim jacket.  It would be nice to have one that I can actually button up.  

This vest minus the godgets has been on my wish list for quite some time.  Maybe in 2021?  

The quest for a white shirt was abandoned this year but the desire for a comfortable crisp white shirt is still alive and well. I really want to give these two patterns a try.  

My sewing goals for the upcoming year is to get to projects that I have been putting off for far too long and sewing comfortable practical items.

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Did you know that Butterick is having a two day sale on patterns?  $1.99 patterns and that includes the new fall release!  

Katherine Tilton's Butterick 6492 and Butterick 6357 both made the cut. Only two patterns this time. 

I really do like Butterick 6495, the Life Style Wardrobe pattern, and it is a great value (especially during this sale) but I don't need another coordinates pattern. So, it was just the two Katherine Tilton patterns.  

In other sewing news... I finished fixing Mama R's dress hem.  

Last night I picked up some seam binding and re-stitched the hem this morning. She's thrilled with her new dress and I'm equally as thrilled to move onto a new project. I'm thinking Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9052 might be up next. We'll see... 

Until then, happy sewing!  

Me-made May: The Final Week

Monday, May 25th:  (3 me-made items)

Day wear:  Yellow and indigo linen dress Vogue 9107 worn with taupe coloured slip and creamed coloured sweater (it's freezing at work with the air-conditioning and hot outside with +28º C).  Shoes:  bone coloured shoes.

Gym wear:  (Worked out at home) Marcy Tilton dress Vogue 8975 worn as a tunic worn with knee length leggings.  Shoes:  Keen runners.

Evening:  Flannel black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Tuesday, May 26th:  (2 me-made items)

Day wear:  Black cotton sateen double-kick pleated skirt OOP Mccall's 7870 worn with a Cynthia Rowley blue cotton short sleeve tee-shirt.  Shoes:  Black Ralph Lauren wedged shoe until they started to make blisters at the heels and my tender tootsies couldn't take it anymore.  Burgundy Mephistos.

Evening:  Flannel black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Wednesday, May 27th:  (2 me-made items)

Day wear:  Black linen and rayon Lynn Mizono dress Vogue 1312 worn with Mac and Jac Jacket.  Shoes:  Black Ralph Lauren wedge shoes (with bandages).

Evening:  Flannel black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Thursday, May 28th:  (3 me-made items)

Day wear:  Taupe coloured wool pants OOP Vogue 1325 worn with yellow three-quarter length sleeve Olsen tee-shirt, kAtheRine Tilton silk vest Butterick 6064, and taupe coloured cotton socks.  Shoes:  leather lace-up shoes.

Evening:  Flannel black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Friday, May 29th:  (2 me-made items)
Day wear:  Blue Marcy Tilton skirt Vogue 9060 worn with black Holt Renfrew tee-shirt, black pin-tucked jacket, coffee-coloured tights and navy windbreaker.  Shoes:  black ankle boots.

Evening:  Flannel black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Saturday, May 30th:  (3 me-made items)

Day wear:  Wool pants OOP Vogue 1325 worn with blue sweater and grey down-filled jacket (yes, it was that cold this morning) and later in the afternoon changed jacket to a black Donna Karan cotton jacket.  I also changed into RTW jeans when doing yard work.  Shoes:  Black ankle boots and navy rubber boots.   

Evening:  Red Rachel Comey skirt Vogue 1247 worn with pink floral Liberty Art print shirt. Flannel pj's OOP McCall's 8525.  

Sunday, May 31st:  (4 me-made items)

Day wear:  Black wool pants OOP Vogue 1325 worn with peplum top OOP Vogue 8936, grey socks and cream coloured sweater.  Shoes:  tan coloured wedged shoes.    

Gym wear:  Green shorts OOP McCall's 4312 worn with navy Sketcher tee-shirt and black sports socks.  Shoes: Keen runners.  

Evening:  Flannel pj's OOP McCall's 8525.  

And that marks the end of another Me-Made May.  Let's see, I could use some more tee-shirts that don't cling to my mid-section, work-out gear and pj's.  

Happy Sewing!  

The Archive Collection

I have to say that I do like the look of McCall's The Archive Collection patterns that have been coming out these recent months. And there are two more patterns released in this Winter/Holiday collection.  

The blouse, McCall's 7053, is lovely with the draped collar and long sleeves. I could see myself wearing this look. And the vest, McCall's 7056, finishes off the skirt from their previous released pattern, McCall's 6993. The three pieces together are a nice look.   

Do you have any favourites from McCall's Winter/Holiday collection?  

Happy Sewing!  

Tackling that Ever-Growing Mending Pile

Part II

Can you believe that this vest has already made it to the mending pile? It didn't take long at all, it actually made it to the mending pile before I had a chance to wear it out in public. Yes, it was part of my blooper-filled August sewing.   

The seam finish on this vest are French seams and being a silk fabric I was dealing with some fraying. I believe that I had cut a rather large hole in the side seam when I was trimming back some frayed threads that showed through my French seams. My bad.  

I used Fray Check to control the fraying and to allow for the narrowest seam allowance over the hole. It was near the bottom hemline at the side seam and I didn't want to have too much bulk at the hem allowance. Thankfully, the repair worked out without drawing attention to the repair.  

 ✄ ✄ ✄

This jacket also made it to the mending pile. I was wearing it out recently and the opening of the pocket seams were opening up.  

It was a quick fix that shouldn't had been in the mending pile at all. I wish I could blame it on waiting until I changed the thread colour on the sewing machine but nope I can't do that. There has been black thread in the sewing machine for some weeks now.  My bad. 

And of course, I could have avoided this mending pile visit if I only reinforced those decorative seams when I cut out the pocket as I refashioned the jacket. I know, I should have known better but in my defence I do believe I was in a T-3 induced state after knee surgery and sewing in short spurts while standing up in order to keep my leg straight.  

✄ ✄ ✄

These ski pants have been in my wardrobe for two years now and I'm almost embarrassed to tell you that it has been that long that these have been waiting to be shortened. I could have taken them into get altered but I would hate to think how much I would be charged with the inner elasticized and outer leg with metal snaps to be shortened. Besides, I could [umm] do this, if I would stop packing it away for the summer!  

With the inner leg alteration I didn't want to cut off the elastic and reinsert it. So instead, I tucked a section all around just above the elastic and then serged off the excess.

The outer leg was more difficult and it is not perfect. I had the challenge of the snaps on the lower section to work around and the fact that one leg is shorter than the other by half an inch. Here I shortened it while I kept the pant leg a little longer knowing that I can hook it up in the back with the loop and snap that was part of the design.

I didn't stress over finishing the hem, I just served the edge and left it. If I do decide on finishing it with a hem in a couple of years (okay, at least I'm honest about my readiness to do mending), I'll finish it with twill or bias tape. But for now, I'm okay with it.

Well, that is three items knocked off the mending and alteration pile and can you believe I have hardly put a dent into it? More to come...

Happy Sewing!

Pattern Give-away: Butterick 6064

Good morning! 

My sewing mojo is still on vacation while I have been busy tidying up around my sewing space. I'm starting to think that I need to de-stash some of my patterns as well as my fabric. I'm going to start with a pattern.   

I have decided that my copy of Butterick 6064 needs to find a good home. It is a kAtheRine Tilton pattern for a vest which has a draped neckline button shoulder closing and front pockets.  

It is a used pattern cut in size medium (12-14) but the other sizes have not been compromised. So if you need the size XS (4-6) or S (8-10) these are still accessible.  

Here's the deal:  

• Promise not to sell it.  
• Give it a good home where it will be used, shared and made into something fabulous.  
• The pattern give-away is open to all and I am willing to ship internationally.  
• Please leave a comment and a way that I can reach you if you win. (include an email address or if your username links to a profile with contact information that would also work.)
• I will draw for the winner on Saturday, September 27th.  

Good luck and happy sewing!  

Mismatched Plaid

Stash busing 2014:  Loose-fitting Very Loose-Fitting Vest

Fabric:    2.3 metres

Buttons:  2

Pattern:   Butterick 6064

I loved the look of the draped neckline on this vest when the pattern came out. I'm not quite as excited about this pattern while sewing it up though. It is not a bad pattern, I just can't pin-point when my enthusiasm became deflated.

I love the fabric and goodness knows I love a plaid. So, that is not it. The fabric is a silk and cotton blend that I found at Fabricland. It has blue, beige and gold tones in it. I did a horrible job at matching the plaids at the side seam because I was too cheap to purchase extra fabric to match the plaid. I'm good with my cheapness. The pockets are designed to be at a slant so there was no way of matching them with the fashion fabric. The pattern does say that it is unsuitable for diagonals. I'm starting to think it might not be suitable for plaids as well.

The buttons were found in my button stash. I used a clear button for the interior button and I found a button for the exterior that picked up on the colours in the plaid. The armholes are finished with bias strips cut in the fashion fabric.

The pattern is nice. kAtheRine Tilton did a good job with the instructions and drafting this pattern around the corners. The miter corners were simple to construct and the pleats on the pockets are nice. It is a nice pattern--not exciting or challenging, just nice. 

I did shorten the vest significantly since I'm shorter than the average model that the Big Four pattern companies use. And I still feel it is long on me. Because of the length adjustment I waited until the vest was constructed before I sewed the pockets in place. I also left off pleats on the back section. They looked as if they were too close together on the pattern piece and after I checked out another version of this vest on Pattern Review, I decided to skip this step. Those were the only changes that I made to the pattern.

Maybe I shouldn't have skipped the back pleats because this looks big (or should I say shapeless?) on me. Maybe that is what is stopping me from loving this vest?  

I'm sure I will get a lot of wear from this vest as part of my work wardrobe as the pockets are my favourite feature. But I don't see myself making another one. It sort of feels like I'm wearing an apron, a fancy silk apron, instead of a vest. It will be perfect for those I-feel-fat days.  

Happy Sewing!  

  

Year in Review: Garments

What a year! I managed to make over 30 items for moi, some of my family, and for gifts.

Clockwise L to R: 1. Top, Vogue 1274 2. Baby Onsie, McCall's 7367
3. Men's Shirt, McCall's 2447 4. Most challenging and rewarding
project of 2013, Spring Coat, Burda 7304 5. Bedroom curtains, self-drafted

Clockwise L to R: 1. Navy wool pants and my favourite pattern of 2013: Vogue 1325 2. Floral Top, Burda 7255
3. Messanger Bag 4. Baby Blue Baby Dress, Burda 9752 5. My favourite make of 2013: kAtheRine Tilton Top, Butterick 5891

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit Fleece, Vogue 8854 2. Plaid Skirt, Vogue 8835
3. Knit Dress, McCall's  6612 4. Knit Dress, Vogue 1312 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Shirt, Burda 7136 2. Leather trimmed denim skirt, Burda 7025 3. Faux fur and knit blanket,
self-drafted 4. Black wool pants, Vogue 1325 5. Gray and blue pinstriped wool and cashmere pants, Vogue 1325 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Skirt, Vogue 1038 2. Vintage Dress, Simplicity 7478
3. Flannel PJ's, McCall's 8525 4. First attempt at making knickers, online pattern
5. Plaid dress, Vogue 8667

Clockwise L to R:  1. Dress, Simplicity 8024 2. Dress, Simplicity 2372 3. First unintentional attempt
at granny knickers, Kwik Sew 2100 4. Red denim pants, Vogue 1325 5. Peplum top, Vogue 8815

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit sweater,Stretch & Sew 200 2. Black cotton sateen
vest, Simplicity 4763 3. Blue shirtdress, Vintage McCall's 9424 4. Orange
knit skirt, Vogue  86375. Silk duponi top, Centre for Pattern Design, Spiral Top.  

And there were other types of sewing projects that materialized in 2013. More to follow...

Happy Monday!

Guess what came in the mail today! Vogue 1847, in my size.

I actually have this pattern in my stash but sadly it is not in my current size. I bought it years ago when it first came out but never got around to making it.

This replacement one will fit. And I have a British wool sitting in my stash that would be perfect for this. Hmmm, version B or version C.

Decisions, decisions...  

Happy Sewing!

The Good Old Days...

I happen-ed to be in the local Value Village when I came across this vest. It still has the tags on it.

This item is from more than a decade ago. Actually, more than fifteen years ago. How do I know? A vest just like this one was once part of my wardrobe. And I have a picture with it on, holding my then-baby-nephew at the hospital. The only reason that I no longer have it is because I outgrew it gained some weight. But I came across it hanging on the rack packed in between layers of cheaply made rejects.

Oh the contrast! You won't find quality pieces like this in the stores now-a-days. The vest is completed lined. It has front and back facings and fabric covered buttons. And are you sitting down? The front of the vest has an interlining. This vest is not a designer piece. And the best part of this garment when I owned one just like this is that the fabric never pilled--never.

This vest was a piece from The Work Connection line carried by EATON'S back-in-the-day. I still to this day mourn the loss of Eaton's from the Canadian retail landscape.

Retail has changed over the years since Eaton's demise. Our landscape has become polluted with low-end retailers offering low prices. It sounds good at the surface but for lower prices you'll have to sacrifice something. You never get something for nothing.

Millions of jobs in North America were traded off and shipped overseas in a plan to exploit cheap labour. In returned they shipped back poorly made clothing from even less impressive fabrics. Many styles that come back are less than imaginative. And there you have another reason why I sew.

But when I came across this vest with the tags still on, I had to pick it up. It was mostly a nostalgic purchase. And it fits. I plan to proudly wear it as a tribute to when clothes were well-made in Canada and as a reminder to never take short cuts in my sewing.

Happy Sewing!