Stash busting: Elastic back skirt / OOP Vogue 1247 and Vintage Vogue 9918

Since the first one turned out, I cut three more versions.  Here is the first of the lastest versions I am currently working on.  I want to replace my Vogue 1247 (Rachel Comey) skirts with elastic waist versions so I can wear them with the back brace.  The three versions that I previously had in my wardrobe have found a new home.  

There is a wee bit more ease with the versions I am currently working on, a half inch extra ease.  The hem length was extended and an inch and a quarter blind hem was sewn.  Otherwise, it's similar to the first version.  I really hope this is not a cotton and polyester blend because if there is pilling, it will be sad.

The fabric was labeled as a black cotton twill but after cutting the fabric and observing the fraying, I'm starting to suspect a misleading label hiding another fibre in the mix.  I will have to do a burn test to see if my suspicion is correct.  It doesn't feel or sew like other cotton fabrics I have used in the past.  I really hope and pray this is not a cotton / polyester blend which I have sewn in the past and dealt with pilling after a few wears.  I will be sad if that happens with this one since I really like the fit of this skirt.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the required supplies were pulled from the stash.  The fabric and elastic came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue patterns are  made in the U.S.A. items but they did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff and blackmail economy.  Vogue 1247, circa 2011, has been in the stash for years.  Vogue 9918 is a vintage pattern from the 1980s that I picked up from an American reseller in 2023, prior to the convicted felon's 2.0 economic threats against Canada and the resulting boycott.  The cotton Gütermann threads used in the sewing machine was made in Greece and purchased from Fabricland.  I am finding that Fabricland's selection of polyester Gütermann threads made in the USA is expanding and their selection of European made cotton threads is dwindling.  And I've even noticed that some of their stock is void of the country of origin on the label.  Hmmm?  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label was recycled from a previous project.  It originally came from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  0.5 metres

Label:  1--recycled "Me Made" KATM label

Patterns:  OOP Vogue 1247 (circa 2011) and vintage Vogue 9918 (circa 1980s).

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, thread clippers, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, seam ripper and safety pin.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Revisiting a Favourite Pattern: Butterick 6784

I am revisiting a favourite kAtheRine Tilton sewing pattern, Butterick 6784.  

This is one of four that I cut recently and hope to get to this month.  Two are summer versions (one cotton and one linen) and the others are cut in fabrics I can wear in the cooler to colder months of the year.  Why four more?  This is such a comfortable dress to wear, that's it.  Oh, and it has pockets!  

The only change to the pattern was to shorten the length by two inches after it was all pieced together.  It has a 3/4" topstitched hem.  I decided to leave off the collar, even though I do like the design and I did cut the pattern piece.  In the end, I decided to omit it since this is a warm weather version.  I also omitted the interfacing on the sleeve facing piece.  I just wanted to keep this light.  

The 100% cotton fabric used for this version has been in the stash for some years now.  I picked up this shirt weight cotton fabric from Emma One Sock many moons ago.  It was pre-treated with a wash in the washing machine and a tumble in the dryer prior to hitting the ironing board for a good steam press.  And then it hit the cutting table.    

Sewing IS Political

This project is Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free.  The fabric was purchased from Emma One Sock, an U.S. business prior to the convicted felon down south starting his tariff war on the world and trash-talking Canadians.  The "made in U.S.A." Butterick sewing pattern has been in the stash for years and was previously used over the years.  So I am happy to report, the fabric and sewing pattern did not in any way contribute to the convicted felon's economy.   I believe this is an Obama era fabric.  The threads used were Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used to cut the project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6--2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.9 metres

Knit 'N Stable:  0.20 metres

Label:  1--KATM "Ooh La La" label 

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, tailor's chalk, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, threads (sewing machine and serger), Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, assorted cans used as weights, good tunes and a cup of tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Copy Cat San Francisco Baby Nursing Cover

This project is a request that recently came across the worktable, a baby nursing cover.  From the photo I was sent, I would be guessing at the details but thankfully there were more clues to be found within the advertisement.  

It is listed as 100 x 70 cm and it basically looks like an oversized rectangular shaped apron.  Sounds easy enough.  I had a piece of 100% cotton French terry leftover from these tops that fit the bill.  There was even enough to cut straps.  And the best part is that this piece was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  I was all set to get to work.  

At first, I really didn't get the appeal of this project.  The frugal part of my brain thought why not just use a bath towel or blanket to cover up during breast feeding?  But it's the interior details that I started to "get it."  Yes, having those interior pockets can be helpful for having easy access to a burping cloth or soother for after the baby is fed.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made but sadly not a tariff free sewing project.  I've been trying hard not to avoid American products that could contribute to the convicted felon's economy or tax dodging oligarch's companies.  This is the first project this year that I purchased an American product to complete a sewing project.  

This project was finished with Tailor™ magnetic fasteners.  The package states that it's imported by Rose E Dee International Ltd. and was made in China.  Packaging information can hide some information from consumers but a little online research reveals that Tailor brand sewing notions are indeed an American company, founded in 1907 by professional tailor Frank Wawak.  Since these snaps are made of metal this project was impacted the tariff war.  I could have found a less expensive alternative to these snaps but I was considering the ease that these could provide while breast feeding.  I do like the product, I just don't like the tariffs and if it weren't for a gift project, I would have forgone this notion at this time.  

The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time and was originally found at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads used on the sewing machine and serger were pulled from the stash and included some Coats and Clark threads that I'm trying to clear out of the stash.    

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Label:  "Made with Love" by KATM

Snaps:  2--25 mm magnetic 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-jig™, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, computer research, chai latte and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.   

Sew What You Need June: Pull-on Navy Cotton Sateen Pants / OOP Butterick 6717

For "sew what you need June" another pair of pull-on cotton pants was on top of the list.  And out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6717 is my current go-to pants pattern.  

These are super comfortable and there are no dislikes with this well-drafted pattern.  I did leave off the side pockets since I usually carry a bag.  And I shortened the length three inches, I should have left half inch to give an inch hem.  These have a half inch top-stitched hem.  The left leg is shortened an additional half inch to address one leg being shorter than the other.  Otherwise there were no other adjustments.  

The fabric is a navy cotton sateen that has been in the stash for years.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer followed by a steam pressing.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6--2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metres

Label:  1 - KATM label

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, clapper (used a weight), spring-hinge fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, Janome serger, threads, screwdriver, thread clippers, safety pin and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Monday's Mending Pile

On my on going quest to find the best fitting facemask, I decided to change up the elastic. Instead of the ear elastic, I've switched the elastic to fit across the back of my head. It stays in place better and instead of pulling my ear lobes forward it wraps around the back of my head. 

It's okay for short time wearing but I find that the elastic hurts the top of my ear if I wear it for more than a hour or so. I might have to go back to the cutting table and look at using a thinner width elastic and give that a try.  

There was some repair work done to this shirt. I made this twenty-seven months ago but but the look of the elbow wear you might think it's older than this. It must have been well-loved and worn.  

At first I thought to patch the elbows but then I found another small hole in the lower shirt front and then decided to cut the sleeves.  I changed the sleeve into a short sleeve and use a small piece of the discarded lower sleeve to cut out a patch and repair the front.  

Looks like it might be time to pull out McCall's 2447 out of the drawer and start planning another long sleeve shirt project.  

Before then, I'm trying to figure out how to repair a very small hole in the lower front corner of this jacket. I wear this one mostly when out doing yard work or running errands.  Do I leave it since it's just weekend / errand wear or should I try to patch it with a "me made" label near the bottom zipper corner?  Or should I just mend it with a few hand stitches to close up the hole?  I wish I still had a remnant of this fabric.  I would have just patched it.  Hmmm, I  might go with the label.  What do you think?  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Replacement Top: OOP Butterick 5891

Many moons ago I had a favourite top that I wore mostly in the summer months. Until I put it on with damp and recently dyed hair that stained it. That stuff doesn't come off of fabric. It was made with Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891 and a wonderful black and white cotton fabric. I don't have the exact fabric print in my stash or left-over remnant but I did find two cuts that were quite similar. And since I've decided to let my hair do its natural thing (hello gorgeous gray highlights!) I figure it was safe to recreate a similar top.  

I had to blend the two cuts of fabric to create another top.  The front, sleeves and collar were cut in this flowers and swirls print.  

The back and pockets were cut in a floral and dots print. The fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the wash followed by the dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

I typically shorten the sleeve length on commercial sewing patterns but not with this one.  The sleeves were sewn with a two inch hem. The pockets were raised an inch. I omitted the interior button and loop.  No other alterations or changes to the pattern were made.  

The perfect buttons were found in the stash. It's nice to have a similar version top back in the wardrobe.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finish:  Serged interior, top-stitched narrow hems.  

Tips:  If you dye your hair, dry it before getting dressed.  

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Buttons:  3 - 18 mm

Label:  1 "me made" by Kylie and the Machine

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, thread clippers, threads, serger, tweezers, new serger sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

  

That Was Fast!

Wow!  I'll admit, I'm impressed with how fast my most recent Vogue order took to arrive in my mailbox. Nine days from the time I ordered, that's never happened before. It typically takes a good month to get across the border. Of course, this speedy delivery occurred when I can't sit for very long. Oh Saint Anne, the Patron saint of seamstresses, seems to have a sense of humour, doesn't she?  

I'm still thrilled even though the projects I'm eager to sew may take me awhile complete. At least I can cut the projects out. And can I say that I'm also impressed with these labels. They're lovely and I think while I'm sitting on my coccyx cushion the first thing I'll do is sew one of these into my burgundy Marcy Tilton coat.   

Hopefully, I'll get to Vogue 9244 shortly.  

Happy Sewing!