Stash busting: Linen Dress / OOP Butterick 6784

This project is the story of absolute procraftination.  It started with out-of-print (on the Simplicity website) OOP Butterick 6784, a much adored Katherine Tilton design.  I have to note here that this pattern is still available on Pattern Review and via online sellers.  

I have a few versions of this dress, it's that comfortable and it has pockets.  Back in July of last year, I cut out four versions and by September I managed to sew three of them.  And then this one sat in the pile of cut out projects waiting to be sewn as winter settled onto the landscape.  It wasn't the time for a lovely linen dress.  Then other sewing requests pushed their way to the top of the pile.  Of all of the versions I made this past year, one would think that the orange coloured version would be the one sewn first just because,

This orange linen fabric has been in the stash for so long, I'm tempted to call it vintage linen.  I made another dress out of this fabric close to a decade ago and at that point this fabric had been aging in the stash for many years.  It was back-in-the-day when Fabricland put their linen in the discount section at the end of the summer season and you could pick up a bargain.  Oh, those were the days.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the cutting table.      

Let's talk about this pattern.  I do adore a Tilton design, they have been some of my favourite projects and this one is no exception.  Every time I pick up a Tilton pattern from the stash, I'm sad that Butterick and Vogue are no longer carrying their designs.  Out-of-print (on the Simplicity website, currently still available on Pattern Review) Butterick 6784 is one well-drafted pattern and it is a fun make.  Why the procraftination?  Oh yes, the changing seasons.  But I digress.  Only one notable change to the design, the hem length was shorten by two inches once it was pieced together and then a one and a half inch top-stitched hem was sewn.  There was the omission of the small band petal shaped collar pieces.   

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, many moons ago.  The sewing pattern appeared in the stash before the elbows up movement.  The scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased online.  

The 100% cotton threads used in the serger and sewing machine were Gütermann threads from Germany and Coats and Clark quilting cotton threads from Eygpt and many moons ago, were picked up from Fabricland.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Label:  1--"Me Made" label from Kylie and the Machine (KATM)

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020.  Out-of-print from the Simplicity website.  This pattern is still available from Pattern Review.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pen, Post It! notes, measuring tape, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, pin container, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many cups of tea and some procraftination.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Stash Busting: A Winter Version of Butterick 6784

This is my dream-come-true dress.  It's comfortable, has the best pockets and it's made in the most incredibly beautiful cashmere and wool blend fabric.  

Butterick 6784 is a tried and true (TNT) pattern and the forth version of this dress.  The pattern is well-drafted and designed.  It's another kAtheRine Tilton design and a fun project to sew.  I enjoyed sewing this pattern and have no dislikes to report.  The hem length was shortened by two inches and hemmed with a one and a half blind hem.  I made this version without the collar and interfacing the sleeve facing.  There were no other changes.  

The fabric was pretreated before hitting the cutting table.  This beautiful cashmere and wool blend has been in the stash for eight years and it actually made a previous appearance on the blog here.  I made a shirt dress with this fabric which is still in my wardrobe.  It still fits and it's in excellent condition.  I do like a shirtdress but I haven't been reaching for it lately.  It's not the fabric, the fabric is gorgeous.  It needs the hemline shortened since I've lost some height in the past seven years.  And since I have threads in the serger and sewing machine I think that will be next.  But I digress.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels followed by a steam pressing.  Post-construction, this dress will be treated with care and hand washed when needed.   

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No sewing supplies used to create this dress contributed to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  The fabric has been in my stash for years, many years, and came from Mitchell Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet which closed down in 2017.  The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann thread and likely purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, Butterick 6784, was in the stash for years prior to the convicted felon's global tariff war.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased via The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were purchased directly from KATM last year.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Labels:  2--one fabric label and one "Bespoke" label 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, pin cushion, pin box, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, extra bobbins, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, mini vacuum, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, clapper, iron, ironing board, good tunes, heating pad, Dr. Ho, rest breaks, and pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Pullover Dress with Pockets: Butterick 6784

There are a couple of versions of Butterick 6784 cut and ready to sew.  This is my most recent version.  

Why so many?  Butterick 6784, designed by kAtheRine Tilton, is one comfortable dress and it has generously sized pockets.  That's it, right now in my life, dressing is all about comfort and pockets. I'm working on versions that will keep me comfortable in the autumn and winter months.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with stretch that I found in the discounted section of the fabric store last year.  Why this beautiful fabric with this vibrant colour made it to the discounted section is beyond me.  I'm just thrilled it was there when I spotted this fabric.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press prior to cutting.    

This is a well-drafted and fun project to sew.  It's a size medium and the only changes to the pattern was to shorten it two inches and to sew a 1 1/2" hem.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric was found at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet and was discovered before the convicted felon was voted back into the white house and started his global tariff war.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, circa 2020, was in the stash before the convicted felon won a second term and did not contribute to his tariff economy.  The cotton thread used to sew the dress and the polyester threads used in the serger are Gütermann threads and were purchased from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were picked up at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company purchased directed from the company.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Label:  1--"Me Made" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin box, fabric scissors, thread clippers, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and many breaks.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Revisiting a Favourite Pattern: Butterick 6784

I am revisiting a favourite kAtheRine Tilton sewing pattern, Butterick 6784.  

This is one of four that I cut recently and hope to get to this month.  Two are summer versions (one cotton and one linen) and the others are cut in fabrics I can wear in the cooler to colder months of the year.  Why four more?  This is such a comfortable dress to wear, that's it.  Oh, and it has pockets!  

The only change to the pattern was to shorten the length by two inches after it was all pieced together.  It has a 3/4" topstitched hem.  I decided to leave off the collar, even though I do like the design and I did cut the pattern piece.  In the end, I decided to omit it since this is a warm weather version.  I also omitted the interfacing on the sleeve facing piece.  I just wanted to keep this light.  

The 100% cotton fabric used for this version has been in the stash for some years now.  I picked up this shirt weight cotton fabric from Emma One Sock many moons ago.  It was pre-treated with a wash in the washing machine and a tumble in the dryer prior to hitting the ironing board for a good steam press.  And then it hit the cutting table.    

Sewing IS Political

This project is Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free.  The fabric was purchased from Emma One Sock, an U.S. business prior to the convicted felon down south starting his tariff war on the world and trash-talking Canadians.  The "made in U.S.A." Butterick sewing pattern has been in the stash for years and was previously used over the years.  So I am happy to report, the fabric and sewing pattern did not in any way contribute to the convicted felon's economy.   I believe this is an Obama era fabric.  The threads used were Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used to cut the project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6--2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.9 metres

Knit 'N Stable:  0.20 metres

Label:  1--KATM "Ooh La La" label 

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, tailor's chalk, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, threads (sewing machine and serger), Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, assorted cans used as weights, good tunes and a cup of tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Cotton Butterfly Shirt: OOP Butterick 5891

With the arrival of the official first day of summer, out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5891 makes another appearance.  

This kAtheRine Tilton design is a favourite summer-time top pattern.  It has long sleeves to protect from those nasty mosquito bites--they're fierce this year.  And pockets!  Ah, gotta love a garment with pockets.  

There was one small change made to this version.  The center back was cut on the fold and fanned out two inches at the bottom hemline to provide more ease in the back.  

The fabric inspired this project.  When I stumbled across it in the quilting cottons, I was smitten with the print.  It was listed as a craft cotton but this 100% cotton fabric worked out just fine for garment sewing.  Although I wouldn't use it if you're sewing something that needs the fabric to drape.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the wash cycle and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres

Buttons:  4--1" recycled buttons

Sewing label:  1--"I sewed this!" label

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5891

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, measuring tapes, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, cotton thread, silk thread, hand sewing needle, thread clippers, tailor's wax, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, screwdriver, buttonhole foot, walking foot and tea.  

Happy Sewing! 

Cotton Summer Dress: Butterick 6784

Ever since I made this version of Butterick 6784 last summer, I was smitten over this kAtheRine Tilton design with its Lagenlook vibe.  I longed for a casual cotton version for surviving in the prairie summer heat.  

This can now be checked off the want-to-sew list.  And just in time, as this dress will replace this once go-to summer dress that no longer fits.  But I digress. 

There were some small changes to Butterick 6784.  The right side pocket and petal shaped collar were omitted.  And the hem was shortened two inches.  Otherwise, it's a straight out of the envelope size medium.  The instructions are wonderful.  The pattern is well-drafted and came together without any issues.  Just one warning, many of the pattern pieces are cut one at a time on a single layer of fabric so you'll need space to to lay out the pattern pieces.  

The fabric is a printed cotton with a Moroccan or Portuguese tile vibe I couldn't resist.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 to 3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.2 metres fusible

Knit 'N Stable:  0.1 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784  

Sewing Label:  1 KATM "You Can't Buy This" label

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, additional table legs, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, thread clippers, heat pad for treating back pain and cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: OOP Butterick 5891

Once upon a time, there was enough of this Japanese cotton printed fabric to cut all the pattern pieces found in out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5891.  Then Covid happened and this 100% cotton fabric ended up on the cutting table to make face masks and scrub caps during the pandemic.  

The denim collar is just because I was short of this Japanese cotton to cut out the collar piece.  Oops.  And sometimes a sewing oops works out just fine.  There is a pair of pants cuts out of the denim used here so it might just end up looking like an intentional design feature.  But I digress.  

These fabrics were in the stash for years.  Which year I can't recall but it was many years before the pandemic.  The printed Japanese cotton was a discounted Fabricland find.  The denim I'm pretty certain originated from Fanny Fabrics which closed down in 2005.  The fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

The pattern, OOP Butterick 5891, is a favourite and an absolute treasure.  I've made a few versions of view D and it is a very comfortable top to wear.  Best part of this design would be the side pockets which I did raise an inch.  That is the only alteration / change made to the pattern.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.7 metres 

Buttons:  3 -- 7/8" recycled buttons

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5891

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, threads, Janome sewing machine, buttonhole foot, walking foot, thread clippers, Brother serger, tweezers, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, hand sewing needle, screwdriver, clapper (used as a hammer), iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Special Occasion Dress (Adult Version): Butterick 6784

Now-a-days, I'm all about having enough ease in easy accessible clothing.  And I couldn't be more thrilled with how this project turned out.  A pull-over dress with a pocket is a win-win.  

The fabric is a teal coloured crepe that has been in my fabric stash for years, maybe even a decade or more?  Initially, I thought of using a linen but I really like the drape of this fabric with this design.  I'm sure this pattern will hit the cutting table again, so a linen version might happen one day.  But not soon since we're around the corner from the tail end of summer.  

Let's talk about the design!  It's a kAtheRine Tilton design from 2020.  The description from the pattern envelope states, "Misses' Dress."  Someone should fire the person in charge of writing descriptions because this design is so much more.  Even the description found on Pattern Review misses the mark, "round neck dress has small band collar and multiple asymmetrical seams.  Can be short sleeved with cuffs or sleeveless."  

I'm going to give it a try to describe how fabulous this design really is, here goes.  

In true Katherine Tilton fashion, Butterick 6784 is a dress that will remind you that a Tilton design is not only a creative force rarely matched by other designers but also a joy to sew.  Pieced pullover dress is perfect for colour blocking, working with stripes, or keeping it simple with a solid colours.  Fitted in the bust with a tulip shaping at the side seams.  It has two different styles of pockets, a left front pocket and a right side pocket.  The neckline has a petal shaped  collar piece that overlap in the back by end before meeting in the front.  The neckline if finished with a bias cut strip.  Sleeveless or elbow length sleeves with sleeve facing and slits.  Neckline facing and sleeve facing are topstitched in place.  Narrow top-stitched hem.  No length adjustment markings are noted on the pattern pieces.  

The only change I made was to leave off the right side pocket a decision based on the drape of the fabric.  And the hemline was treated with Knit 'N Stable tape and finished with an inch blind hem instead of the recommended narrow hem.    

Butterick 6784 has been in my pattern stash for a long time.  It has made it onto the cutting table a few times only to be replaced with some other project.  It was all about the challenge of cutting out the larger-than-my-cutting table, single layer, pattern pieces that stopped me in my tracks.  That is until something wonderful happened.  

An Instagram message appeared from Winnipeg Sews offering table legs to anyone willing to come and pick them up.  And even though I have a similar set, two more made this dress possible.  I was able to extend the size of my workspace to open up the fabric and cut all the single layers without working from the floor and risking knee and back pain.  I'm so thankful for this wonderful gift.  It truly was a gift.  Without it I don't believe I would have cut this project out.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Interfacing:  0.5 metres fusible

Label:  "New Threads" by KATM

Knit 'N Stable:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, extra set of adjustable table legs, folding table top, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle for basting, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Jean-a-ma-Jig, Janome serger, threads (finished off 5 - 100 yard spools), thread clippers, Dr. Ho pads and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

I've downsizing my pattern collection.  

Many new patterns are showing up on the Etsy shop, patterns that I hoped to sew but never had the time.  

Patterns that no longer fit my current lifestyle.  

Patterns that no longer fit my body shape.

Patterns that no longer fit my mobility.  

A pattern collection that no longer fits my budget reality.  

I hope they find a good home.  

The hardest ones to let go are the Marcy Tilton and kAtheRine Tilton patterns.  

They were the most fun to sew.  

I couldn't let my copy of Butterick 5891 go, it is such a lovely pattern.  

And I'm sure it might make another repeat appearance at the cutting table one day.  

I haven't sewn Vogue 8709 in the past decade.  

But I don't have the heart to let it go.  

I still wear the first version I made over eleven years ago.  

I love the fit especially at the shoulder.  

One day, I will make another version.  

That's the plan.  

It's hard to let patterns go.  

There is a sense of nostalgia woven into them.  

A sense of lost dreams.  

Do you find it hard to let go of previously loved patterns?  

Looking back at days twenty-two to twenty-four, Me-Made-May 2022 has also been about editing and downsizing.  

Most of the items I've been wearing this month are making a repeat appearance.  

When I do chose an item to wear that I don't normally reach for there is a diminished sense of comfort.

  

This year it's all about comfort and easy to wear items.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe & Keep Sewing!  

When Fabric and Pattern are a Perfect Match: OOP Butterick 5891

Back-in-the-day, many, many moons ago, I found these beautiful printed cottons in the discounted section of the fabric store.  I picked up three different print patterns and with them, over the years, I made three versions of out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5891.  The Katherine Tilton pattern and the cotton fabric happen to be, in my humble opinion, a perfect match.  The first version was made in 2013.  The second version replaced the first in 2020, after a hair dye accident.  This is the latest 2022 version.  

Over the years, this top pattern, made in the other versions, has been a favourite piece of clothing.  Although, it's not suitable for a brutal prairie winter, there is hope that spring may soon arrive.  And with that the possibility to wear this without a shiver.  It was a tough winter, but I digress.

I was thrilled when I discovered that there was enough of this fabric to make one more version.  And even though I wasn't looking to sew another version at this time, I also didn't want to pack this piece of fabric back in the stash.  It's been aging in there long enough.  And it was pretreated in the past, all I had to do was cut and sew. 

The only changes to the pattern was to first raise the pockets a wee bit, something that I've done with the other versions.  The hem on the sleeve is a two inch hem instead of the recommended one inch hem.  And I left off the interior button as I usually wear a brooch in its place.  

This pattern is a keeper.  I don't think I will make another version any time soon but I do know I will hold on to this one for awhile longer.  It's well drafted and I really enjoy the shape of the collar.  I love that it has side pockets.  The buttons were also hiding out for a long time in my button collection.  I had everything I needed in the stash to start and finish this project.  

It was the perfect rainy weekend project.  A bit of nostalgic sewing I guess.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Interfacing:  0.8 metres

Buttons:  Recycled

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5891

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, tailor's chalk, clapper (used as a weight), iron, ironing board, thread clippers, sewing machine, regular presser foot, buttonhole foot, measuring tape, measuring gauge, serger, threads, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Replacement Top: OOP Butterick 5891

Many moons ago I had a favourite top that I wore mostly in the summer months. Until I put it on with damp and recently dyed hair that stained it. That stuff doesn't come off of fabric. It was made with Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891 and a wonderful black and white cotton fabric. I don't have the exact fabric print in my stash or left-over remnant but I did find two cuts that were quite similar. And since I've decided to let my hair do its natural thing (hello gorgeous gray highlights!) I figure it was safe to recreate a similar top.  

I had to blend the two cuts of fabric to create another top.  The front, sleeves and collar were cut in this flowers and swirls print.  

The back and pockets were cut in a floral and dots print. The fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the wash followed by the dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

I typically shorten the sleeve length on commercial sewing patterns but not with this one.  The sleeves were sewn with a two inch hem. The pockets were raised an inch. I omitted the interior button and loop.  No other alterations or changes to the pattern were made.  

The perfect buttons were found in the stash. It's nice to have a similar version top back in the wardrobe.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finish:  Serged interior, top-stitched narrow hems.  

Tips:  If you dye your hair, dry it before getting dressed.  

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Buttons:  3 - 18 mm

Label:  1 "me made" by Kylie and the Machine

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, thread clippers, threads, serger, tweezers, new serger sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

  

Celebrating National Flag of Canada Day: Butterick 6325

Today marks National Flag of Canada Day and I can't think of a better reason to break out this fabric and sew something festive for the occasion.  Fifty-five years ago, the red and white maple leaf flag that we know today was raised for the first time on Parliament Hill in our nation's capital.  

I actually picked up this 100% cotton fabric and pretreated it about seven or eight months ago thinking about a Canada Day shirt when all the Canadiana prints hit a prominent position in the local fabric shop shelves. And as with life, finding time to sew became a challenge and the project didn't materialize in time for the Canada Day festivities. This is my second chance at completing the project for a festive occassion. Bonus, I'll have a shirt for Canada Day in a few short months.

For this project I used Butterick 6325, a kAtheRine Tilton design. It's a fun pattern to sew. Not so much fun to cut as many of the pieces were singular and that added to the time at the cutting table. I just wanted to get to the sewing!

But it was all worth the wait. This will go down as a favourite pattern and I'm already planning another version. It's well drafted and well marked. Even though others found that the ease was quite generous on this pattern I stayed with a size medium and I'm pleased with the fit. Other than shortening the length on the sleeves, there were no other changes.

The pleated collar is quite lovely as are the pleats on the sides. The buttons were from the stash, picked up a few years ago when Mitchell Fabrics closed down.  All of the supplies and materials for this project were found in the stash.

Happy National Flag of Canada Day!

The Stats

Fabric:  3 metres

Interfacing:  0.8 metres

Buttons:  5 - 1/2" shank buttons

Pattern:  Butterick 6325

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, ruler, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, thimble, sewing machine, serger, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, tweezers, tailor's wax and some time for a tea break or two.  

Happy Sewing!

I'm tempted.

My sewing mojo is defrosting and with some milder temperatures on the way and a morning last week filled with birds chirping, I'm tempted with the thoughts of sewing again. Never mind that Butterick released their Spring / Summer patterns last night.  Yes, Vogue released their Spring line a couple of weeks ago but there wasn't anything that made me think WOW! But Katherine Tilton released a jacket pattern that did via the Butterick release last night.  

WOW!  Butterick 6569 is a home run!  Raglan sleeves, hip coverage and pockets make is my kind of workout gear.  That's the only pattern that I'm excited about. Now if I could just get excited about working out, then the pattern might make it to the collection 😉.  

How about you any patterns that you're tempted with in the Spring / Summer releases?  

Happy Sewing!

 

Slow Sewing

This is the second version of Butterick 6026 and I'm really pleased with how this version turned out. The pin tucks stand out in a solid colour and they are my favourite feature of this Katherine Tilton design.

Again, I used my blind hem foot to make these pin-tucks. I really like how they turned out over using the pin-tuck foot.

This project, however, took much longer to finish with over two weeks from the time I cut it out to the finish. It has been an activity in slow sewing as I was feeling under the weather that dismissed my sewing mojo to a near non-existent level. It is nice to finally see this project complete.

I have to echo all the praise that this pattern has earned over the years, it really is a comfortable shirt. Even though I find this a comfortable top, I did adjust the design to allow for more ease. The back has double pointed darts as part of the design that were removed and the curve at the waistline was adjusted when extra ease was given at the side seams. I added 5/8" from the hemline grading up to zero at the bottom of the armhole. There were, surprisingly, no adjustments made to the hem or sleeve length. These lengths were perfect on my five-foot-one frame.

This photo shows a true representation of the colour.

The fabric is from Marshall / Northwest Fabrics and I found it in a section labelled linen fabrics but also included some cottons. They have a very small selection of linen. There is a little doubt that it is a 100% linen because it doesn't wrinkle like other linens in my stash. Marshall / Northwest is notorious for not labeling their bolts of fabric and there is a trend in the fabric stores to label fabrics as one content when it is actually a blend. Perhaps this is the case? Maybe I'll be proven wrong when I test it out with a day of wear? I pretreated the fabric with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer. I didn't find that it wrinkled as much as this linen fabric. I was actually able to get out the wrinkles with the cotton setting on my steam iron. I used a non-fusible interfacing for the collar and collar stand. Sure fusible interfacing is quicker to use, but I prefer the look and texture of a non-fusible more. I think it's worth taking the time to hand-stitch in place.

The buttons are from Fabricland and turned out to be a perfect match for my fabric.

They appear clear on the fabric but they have a bluish-green tint to them. I increased the quantity of buttons used on this project and followed the advice of others to watch out for the button placement guide with this pattern. Instead, I tried it on and eye-balled the placement. All-and-all, I'm really happy with how it all came together despite the length of time it took to complete. It will be a comfortable work shirt.   

The Stats: 

Fabric:  1.3 metres 

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Buttons:  8 - 1/2" 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve roll, sewing machine, blind hem foot, walking foot, buttonhole foot, silk thread for hand stitching, cotton thread for top-stitching, polyester threads for the serger, Kleenex tissues, meds, and lots of naps.

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Sewing blooper #... actually, I lost count.

I cut out a couple of pairs of panties using left over knit from this top. The plan was that it would be an easy sewing project. It should have been an easy project considering this is not my first pair using Simplicity 8229. Without looking at the sewing instructions I layered the front, back and crotch lining pieces in the wrong order and created my latest sewing blooper. I'll try again tomorrow. I'm undecided if I want to attempt to unstitch it or just re-cut another pair. If there's enough scrap fabric, I think it will be easier to just re-cut.    

I did have some sewing related success this weekend.  I found buttons for another version of Butterick 6026, a Katherine Tilton shirt. Woohoo!, gotta love simple pleasures. I hope to start on this project tonight after I get those panties done.  

Well that's what is on my sewing table.  What's on yours this weekend?  

Happy Sewing!  

Butterick's Fall Pattern Release

Oh my, can you believe that there are already fall 2017 patterns being released? Although, I am looking forward to fall, always! (I love autumn.) I haven't even brought out all of my summer time clothing out of storage. And yes, it will seem like in a blink of the eye, autumn will be upon us but I would like to make that off-the-shoulder top and maybe wear it at least once before I think about fall sewing. That said, there are some lovely patterns that have me thinking ahead.  

Of course another Tilton design caught my eye. At first Katherine Tilton's shirt pattern, Butterick 6491, reminds me of a shorter version of Marcy Tilton's coat pattern, Vogue 8934, with the shaped hem. Except this one has tucks instead of darts at the hemline and a different sleeve and collar design. It looks great on the model, and that forest print fabric is fabulous make up in this design. I think I'm more taken by the cream and black coloured fabric, so pretty.  

Butterick 6492 is for sure on my wish list. Not only would I wear this top as part of my everyday wardrobe, I wouldn't mind this as a pyjama top as well. It looks that comfortable and pockets!

I'm not sure if Butterick 6495 will make it into the collection but I really do like that the off-the-shoulder look is being interpreted for fall. I would certainly make that dress maxi length and maybe three-quarter length sleeves and wear it with a vest instead of a cardigan. But realistically, I don't need another dress. 

Oh no, Butterick 6490! I'm not falling this this cape/top style again. Once was more than enough. Okay, maybe I'll try the cape/top style again but if I do it will be giving Donna Karan's OOP Vogue 1417 a try instead. Prairie autumns call for more arm coverage.  

Well, that's enough thinking about fall sewing when I haven't even put a dent into my summer sewing projects. And besides, the only fall sewing I should be thinking about is making dresses for an autumn wedding. But I don't even want to think about that yet.   

Happy Sewing!   

The Wild Side of Butterick 6026

I'm not someone who is typically drawn to animal print fabrics but when I spotted this linen fabric there was just something about it that I couldn't resist.  

This 100% linen animal print fabric went for a song during the tail end of Mitchell Fabrics closing sale. If it weren't for the sale I don't think I would have splurged on this little luxury. It was the last 1.4 metres from the bolt and when I picked it up I had no idea what I would make with it. With some creative pattern placement and still keeping the pieces on grain, I was able to use every last bit of this 132 cm wide fabric and squeak out a version B from Butterick 6026.

And I'm quite taken with Butterick 6026, a Katherine Tilton design, as well. Let's talk about this pattern. I was a little concerned about the "fitted top" description on the back but after reviewing the finished measurements I felt more relaxed about proceeding. It was the pin tucking design featured on the sleeve hem, front neckline and bodice that drew me to the pattern.

Since I like to have some ease around the mid-section I left off the back darts and after trying it on after basting the sides I went down to a 3/8" seam allowance instead of a 5/8 seam allowance. I cut the top as a size 14 around the neckline, shoulder and armhole and cut a size 16 from the side seam. I like the amount of ease it now has but next time I'll adjust the pattern piece. There was no adjustment to the hem length at all. My favourite part are the pin tucks.     

After asking for some guidance on the button from instagram followers, I went with these vintage black and white buttons.  They were on a card of six for seventy cents, that old.

Oh, and the pin tucks! Even though I own a pin tuck foot I went with the method illustrated in my sewing machine manual.

It calls for the blind hem foot and to move the needle shaft to the left. Using the guide on the foot, run the folded edge of the fabric up to the guide and stitch. It turned out perfectly and there was no need to switch to a double needle. If you're interest in using a pin-tuck foot method this is a good tutorial. But I have to say, I'm really pleased with how it turned out with the blind hem foot method. The pin tucks took the most time for marking, pressing and then stitching and was worth the effort. I think they're just lovely.

I pre-treated the fabric with a tumble through the washing machine and then dryer and of course a good pressing. I typically pre-treat my fabric with the same method that I'll wash it after it's made into something. But I don't plan on tossing this through the machines. I'm quite smitten with how it turned out and plan to launder it with some tender hand washing.

And for someone who isn't typically drawn to an animal print, I can't wait to wear this one.

The Stats:

Fabric:  1.4 metres printed linen

Buttons:  7 - 1/2" vintage buttons

Pattern:  Butterick 6026

Thread:  100% cotton thread for sewing, 100% polyester threads for the serger and basting .

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, buttonhole foot, blind hem foot, regular foot, walking foot, serger, pins, pin cushions, cutting table, iron, ironing board, scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, ruler, sewing and knitting gauge, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, hand needle, wax, threads, chai tea breaks, stretching breaks, and breaks to watch a bit of the Tony Awards.

Happy Sewing!