Stash busting: Linen Dress / OOP Butterick 6784

This project is the story of absolute procraftination.  It started with out-of-print (on the Simplicity website) OOP Butterick 6784, a much adored Katherine Tilton design.  I have to note here that this pattern is still available on Pattern Review and via online sellers.  

I have a few versions of this dress, it's that comfortable and it has pockets.  Back in July of last year, I cut out four versions and by September I managed to sew three of them.  And then this one sat in the pile of cut out projects waiting to be sewn as winter settled onto the landscape.  It wasn't the time for a lovely linen dress.  Then other sewing requests pushed their way to the top of the pile.  Of all of the versions I made this past year, one would think that the orange coloured version would be the one sewn first just because,

This orange linen fabric has been in the stash for so long, I'm tempted to call it vintage linen.  I made another dress out of this fabric close to a decade ago and at that point this fabric had been aging in the stash for many years.  It was back-in-the-day when Fabricland put their linen in the discount section at the end of the summer season and you could pick up a bargain.  Oh, those were the days.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the cutting table.      

Let's talk about this pattern.  I do adore a Tilton design, they have been some of my favourite projects and this one is no exception.  Every time I pick up a Tilton pattern from the stash, I'm sad that Butterick and Vogue are no longer carrying their designs.  Out-of-print (on the Simplicity website, currently still available on Pattern Review) Butterick 6784 is one well-drafted pattern and it is a fun make.  Why the procraftination?  Oh yes, the changing seasons.  But I digress.  Only one notable change to the design, the hem length was shorten by two inches once it was pieced together and then a one and a half inch top-stitched hem was sewn.  There was the omission of the small band petal shaped collar pieces.   

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, many moons ago.  The sewing pattern appeared in the stash before the elbows up movement.  The scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased online.  

The 100% cotton threads used in the serger and sewing machine were Gütermann threads from Germany and Coats and Clark quilting cotton threads from Eygpt and many moons ago, were picked up from Fabricland.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Label:  1--"Me Made" label from Kylie and the Machine (KATM)

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020.  Out-of-print from the Simplicity website.  This pattern is still available from Pattern Review.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pen, Post It! notes, measuring tape, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, pin container, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many cups of tea and some procraftination.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Fabric Focus: Linen

Photo credit:  Baird McNutt Irish Linen.  The Flax Plant.

Linen is a fabric woven from the flax plant and is often used for church linens, household goods and clothing.  It has a long history and it can be argued that it's the oldest fabric.  Archeologists discovered wild flax fragments that had been twisted and dyed in pre-historic cave dwellings in the Caucasus mountains.  These are estimated to be over 30 000 years old.  Linen is mentioned in the bible and is considered the symbol of purity and holiness.  And it's still treasured today.  It's a wonderful fabric to sew.  But as all fabrics, there are pros and cons depending on how you want to use this fabric.    

The Many Positive Aspects of Linen

1.  It's a natural fibre which gives linen inherent hypoallergenic features.  This fabric is a good choice for people with sensitive skin and / or allergies.  Linen is gentle on the skin and it is a breathable fabric.  This breathability allows for proper airflow reducing the accumulation of sweat and bacteria growth.  It also wicks moisture away from the skin aiding in the prevention of bacteria, fungi and dust mites.  Let's just call it a super hero fibre for those of us who are prone to respiratory or skin conditions.  

2.  Just like people, linen improves with age.  The fibres soften over time, maturing into a softer and more comfortable fabric.  This desirable durability makes this a sustainable textile.  Linen is an investment that becomes better over time and eliminates the need for frequent replacements.  Linen is a super hero fibre for the environment as well.  

3.  Let's talk about linen's ability for temperature control and regulation feature.  Most often, people assume that linen is a warm weather textile but linen is suitable for all year use.  The natural fibres provide insulation in cooler weather.  Layering linen provides a comfortable barrier that traps heat without overheating.  In the summer, linen is a good choice for it's breathability.  Linen wicks moisture and allows for airflow.  

4.  Longevity is a something that is well noted with linen, out shining other natural fibres like cotton.  Linen garments can survive frequent washing and wear while keeping their structure.  Household linens can last for decades.  Compared to synthetic fabrics that weaken over time and washing, linen improves with age (see number 2).   It's long lifespan makes linen a cost-effective investment.  

What About the Cons Associated with Linen?

5.  Let's start with the cost.  In the age of inflation, global conflicts, fast-fashion and the race to the bottom, natural fibre fabrics like linen are getting harder to A) find and B) afford.  There seems to be a larger selection of linen blends at the fabric store to reduce costs / maximize profits.  If you're looking for 100% linen, be prepared to pay a premium in today's market.  The durability, breathability and the other positive features does offset the upfront expense over time.  But in today's economic climate the upfront cost may be hard to swallow.  

6.  If wrinkles bother you, maybe this might not be the fabric for you.  Personally, I think it's part of it's charm and beauty.    

7.  Linen demands your time in it's care.  Linen should be washed in cold water with gentle detergents.  Dry your linen with caution because high heat can cause the fibres to shrink.  I suggest hanging to dry.  Avoid chemicals like bleach.  Let's talk about ironing, this need to iron linen if you want to remove the wrinkles can be a real turn off for some.

It really is a wonderful fabric to sew.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.