Toasty Sweatshirt Fabric Dress: OOP Burda 8848

There is nothing like all the snow that fell the last week or so to make one think of up-ing their winter wardrobe.  That is how this sweatshirt dress came to be.  It's made with out-of-print (OOP) Burda 8848.  

I've been smitten at the thought of wearing a toasty sweatshirt fabric dress for quite awhile but I just couldn't quite settle on a pattern.  This pattern, OOP Burda 8848, has been sitting in my pattern stash since September 2019.  

I don't know why I've overlooked this pattern for so long.  I picked it up for the turtleneck and raglan sleeves.  I stalled at making it because of my previous fitting fails with Burda patterns.  It didn't help with reading comments over at Pattern Review about the snug fit of this dress pattern.  Although, I do greatly appreciate reading the reviews!  

So, I was careful with this one.  I used the grading measurements that I use with OOP Vogue 8939 to achieve a less-than-snug fit around my hips.  And I'm really happy with how it turned out.  

My favourite design feature is that the collar has a zipper that runs down the side and can be left zipped up for a turtleneck style or open for a draped collar effect.  And I really appreciate the fit around the shoulders.  The red zipper that I found in the stash was shorter than called for on the pattern.  Even though I am able to get this over my head, I wouldn't mind the additional room that the proper sized zipper would provide.  C'est la vie.  

Other than grading the side seams according to my TNT Vogue 8939 pattern, I shortened the sleeves and hem.  There is no side slit on this version since it was shortened to the point that it wasn't needed.  

Now let's talk about the fabric.  At today's prices, a sweatshirt fabric dress would be a out-of-reach dream.  Have you seen the price of cotton sweatshirt fabric lately?  Yeah, it wouldn't happen.  But I happened to find this fabric for less than a song because it was a damaged bolt.  

The fabric has been in my stash longer than the pattern.  It took some creative pattern piece placement but I was able to sew this dress, a cardigan and child's top with this fabric without any evidence that it was damaged on the bolt.  Goodness, I'm over-the-moon grateful.  

Project Details

Seams:  Lightning bolt / knit stitch

Seam allowances:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres

Zipper:  20 cm invisible zipper

Basting tape:  0.40 cm

Pattern:  OOP Burda 8848

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, pin cushions, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, screw driver, measuring tape, measuring gauge, serger, threads, some extra time researching pattern reviews and tea.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Bootcut Jeans: Butterick 5682

These are my first pair of jeans post-toile.  And it really is a fluke that I've just sewn "this season's It jean."  Who knew bootcut jeans were back in style?  It's not the reason I've sewn this style.  I'm more about sewing comfortable clothing than sewing trends. And trust me no one wants to see me in skinny jeans. Oh wait, those aren't in style anymore. This couldn't have worked out more perfect.  

I did tweak the pattern on this version. I raised the crotch length about 3/8" and adjusted the shape of the front pocket for more depth. Oh, and the front fly is not as instructed, I didn't cut down the 7" zipper, rather I lengthened the front fly pattern pieces and kept the zipper it's length. The belt loops were left off because I never wear a belt.  

The 100% cotton denim has been in the stash for many moons. To be completely honest I can't remember when or where I picked this up. It's a heavier weight denim and these jeans will be perfect for doing yardwork. They're strong enough to handle the work. 

The fabric was pre-treated with three washes before hitting the ironing board for a good steam pressing. I don't usually pretreat fabric in this way but I wanted to be certain there won't be any shrinkage or fading once they hit the cutting table. For the final drying process I hung the fabric outside to dry.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 length

Seam Finish:  serged and top-stitched with jean thread

Tips:  If you can find a Jean-a-ma-jig, it's worth having around for getting over the extra thickness of fabric while top-stitching.  

Fabric:  2.10 metres denim

Lining:  0.20 metres

Interfacing:  1.10 metres fusible

Closures:  7" metal jean zipper and 2 metal "no sew" jean button (ruined the first button)

Pattern:  Butterick 5682

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, clear ruler, seam ripper, sewing machines (Janome for most of the construction and the vintage brother sewing machine for the buttonhole), zipper foot, clear presser foot (for topstitching), basting tape, hand sewing needle, thimble, clapper, iron, ironing board, thread clippers, pin cushions, cutting board, hammer, screwdriver, the jean-a-ma-jig and a wee break for some birthday cake.  

Happy Sewing!

 

New Skirt: OOP Vogue 9701

I've been longing for a wrap skirt but it really isn't all that practical in the windy city with winter fast approaching.  Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue Elements 9701 turned out to be the perfect alternative, "a semi-fitted, straight, mock wrap skirt."  And it was rated "very easy."   

What more could I ask for?  Pockets perhaps?  

Would you believe it has that too?  This pattern is perfect.

The plan is to make it in a wool suiting but I thought to make one in a fabric I wouldn't mind losing if the fit wasn't just right.  I used a medium weight denim that was in the stash likely from the same decade this pattern originates.  I'm so glad it fits because in the denim this turns out to be a skirt that will hold up over the winter. And it's a dark denim so I'm hoping that I might also get away with wearing this for work.  Maybe with a white shirt but I digress... 

I shortened the above-ankle length (view B) three inches.  Other than that I cut my size.  I could have used the adjustments for the petite markings closer to the waistline.  Even though I like a high waisted skirt, I could have benefited from this adjustment instead of taking off the length from the hemline.  Something to consider for next time.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres of 100% cotton denim

Zipper:  9" invisible zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9701 (found on Etsy)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Iron, ironing board, cutting table, pins, pin cushion, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, serger, threads for the serger, sewing machine and hand-stitching, new serger needles, self-threading hand needle, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, basting tape, scissors, thread clippers, and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

My Day of Sewing Bloopers

I should have been able to sew up Simplicity 2372 with my eyes closed. I've made so many versions of this pattern, it should have been an easy peasy project.  

And to be honest, looking at it now you wouldn't believe the bloopers that occurred along the way. Maybe sewing while stuffed up and a sinus headache wasn't the best idea, but I had promised Mom I would sew this earlier in the week. And I was itching to do sewing after six days of not, I was starting to experience withdrawal symptoms.   

The first blooper came when I tried to zip up the zipper and realized it was all twisted. I wish I could say that this is the first time this has happened but that wouldn't be truthful. I haven't been sleeping well this week with being all stuffed up so we can throw in there lack of sleep this week. Now, that is being truthful. But sometimes you just have to feed the need to sew and work past the tiredness.  

  

I'm glad that I did because I was able to fix the issue before calling it a night. Everything was going well until it came to the pockets. When I clipped a big hole in it.   

Yes, I did. Snipped right through the upper corner of the pocket. It's amazing that Mom even has another dress hanging in her closet.  

The fabric is a fairly recent find. I found this beautiful floral print stretch sateen at Fabricland. The lining fabric is from the now-closed Mitchell Fabrics and has been in my stash for a long time. And the interfacing used was a light-weight fusible interfacing. Both fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer and pressed before they were cut.  

The dress pattern is from Simplicity 2372 and has been modified to Mom's requests,

• Zipper in the back
• Centre front seam removed and cut on the fold
• Hemline shortened
• Sleeve lengtened
• Neckline adjustments

Despite all the bloopers that occurred in the past twenty-four hours, I'm thrilled with how everything worked out in the end.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Interfacing:  0.5 metres

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Pattern:  Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, threads, hand needle, seam ripper, blind hem foot, walking foot, regular foot, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, iron, ironing board, scissors, thread clippers, rulers, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, tailor's ham, sleeve roll, tailor's chalk, good tunes (The White Stripes), tea, coffee, and there was an attempt to take a nap.  

Happy Sewing!  

Simplicity 2372: New Year, New Dress

Happy New Year!  

The first dress of the year is for Mama R. Well, it is her birthday. A lady needs a new dress for these celebratory occasions, right? I gave her the choice of any fabric from my stash and this is the one that she chose. I adore the colours in this print and I'm thrilled with this choice. It just seems like I've been sewing up a lot of dark coloured garments lately. It is a nice change. I actually picked it out thinking that I would make a skirt for myself, but I'm willing to admit that I have more than enough skirts in my wardrobe and that a new dress for Mom is a much better idea.

The pattern is a go-to-favourite, Simplicity 2372. Mama R adores the neckline and armhole pleats.

The usual changes happened again:  remove the front centre seam, insert a zipper, lengthen the sleeves, shorten the hem, and add pockets. There were several stitches used to complete the dress. I used the straight stitch (also known as the basic stitch) to construct most of the dress including the zipper as well as locking stitch at the start and ending of my seams. The hem was completed with a straight blind hem stitch (also known as an invisible hem) on my machine. Hand-stitches on this dress included the basting (also known as the tack stitch) and the slip stitch to hold down the facing piece.

The fabric is a 100% cotton from Fabricland's home decor department. It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine followed by a tumble in the dryer and then a final pressing before I cut it out.

I'm starting off the new year using supplies already found in my stash. I would like to try to do this as much as I can this year. The fabric made it into my collection a year ago, maybe two? I'm not quite sure to be completely honest. The interfacing has been in my stash for a couple of years now. The basting tape was a much appreciated birthday gift. And even the invisible zipper and threads were found in my stash.

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres 

Interfacing:  0.3 metres fusible interfacing

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Basting Tape:  1.12 metres 

Pattern:  Simplicity 2372

Time:  I invested about 5.5 hours into the preparation of the fabric and construction of this dress.

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, threads (for the serger, sewing machine and hand-stitching), invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, measuring tape, steam iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, scissors, thread clippers, pins, cutting table, and a few stretch breaks.

Happy Sewing!  

Summer Pants

I've wanted to make these Rachel Comey pants, Vogue 1507, ever since I laid eyes on this pattern. 

It became a slow process while I tried to source a proper zipper. Like others who have already made the pants, I had trouble finding a six inch separating zipper in my local market. I should note that no where on the pattern envelope, Vogue pattern website, or the feature in Vogue Sewing magazine does it mention that you need a separating zipper! It is not until you open the pattern instruction sheet that your see this to be true. 

And if you are shopping for Vogue patterns in Canada, you can't even check the instruction sheets before you decide on purchasing on a pattern. Tsk-tsk, Vogue patterns. You've sent a few of us on a wild goose chase. I don't think it would have broke the printing budget to add the word "separating" and maybe list some sources where to find this required item in your magazine or website. In case you're considering this project and would like to find a separating zipper, check out this post on some recommended suppliers readers so generously offered. Don't be discouraged from trying this pattern, these zipper sources delivered a custom sized zipper quickly and I couldn't have been more thrilled with the product and service.

I forgot to suck in my stomach.
My bad.

What can I say about these pants on me. First off, my elbow does not bend like the model's elbow does in hand-in-pocket pose.  Yup, these pockets seem like they are set very low on my petite-sized short-armed (and leg) body. But I love the pockets none-the-less!

  

I love everything about these pants, they are so comfortable. I'm already planning to make another pair in white denim. I do have some changes in mind.

I did note Erica Bunker's comment about the front wide waist was a single layer and she wished that she had interfaced and lined it. I didn't interface it but I did cut a second piece of my fashion fabric and made a facing. I will do this again. I also agree with Erica's comment that the waist is big, I found the same thing.

I do like how it fits through the hips and thighs, just the waist needs to be tweaked a bit. I did take advantage of the multi-sized pattern markings. The crotch was cut as a size 14 and the rest of the pants were cut as a size 18 because I don't like my pants being too fitted around my hips.

Even though it would be easier to take the waist in from the sides, I feel that it looks better when I took it in from the centre back. I'll have to make this change on the pattern piece before I cut out the next pair.

The fabric is a blue and white striped cotton that I found at Northwest Fabrics. It is light-weight and make these a perfect pair of summer-time pants. I pretreated the fabric with a wash, tumble in the dryer, and press before I set out to cut my fabric. The fabric handled the pre-treatment process without any issues.


The Stats:

Fabric:       2.2 metres of 100% light-weight cotton.

Interfacing:  0.20 metre of fusible interfacing.

Bias tape:    0.40 metres

Zipper:       1 - 6" separating zipper

Thread:       100% cotton thread.

Additional tools and supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, walking foot, zipper foot, scissors, thread clippers, hand needle, iron, ironing board, advice from the online sewing community, many breaks in between thirty minute sprints of sewing, coffee, and Shakespeare audio CD (listening to Julius Caesar for work).

Happy Sewing!

The Elusive Zipper

Where on earth can you find a six inch separating zipper that isn't sold as a 5 000 piece minimum order? Anyone? I would really appreciate the help on this one. 

{Source}

You see, I picked up Vogue 1507 and I'm dreaming about those pants in a white denim but I can't find a 6" separating zipper. I've checked high and low, at all the fabric stores in the city and I've checked online as well. Even Vogue's online fabric store doesn't carry 6" separating zippers. Oh Vogue patterns, how you tease me with a desirable design!  

I'm not giving up hope. I actually did pick up a nine inch separating zipper, the smallest length that I could find.  

The thought was to try and remove those metal clasps and reapply them three inches below. Just one flaw in my plan. My right hand is swollen today and my fingers are killing me. Could it be that the sewing gods are trying to tell me something?  

Like maybe I shouldn't sew "fitted through hips" pants? Naw, that can't be it. So the search for this little treasure continues. Has anyone seen a six inch separating zipper in their corner of the world? Perhaps buried in your zipper collection? That you wouldn't mind selling?  

Happy Sewing!   

Weekend Wear

Stash-busting 2015:  Butterick 6253

I've wanted to make another hooded jacket since I made my first one. And here it is!

The Pattern:

Butterick 6253 is one of my favourite patterns released this year. It is a kAtheRine Tilton design, need I say more?  

I have no dislikes about this design and love everything about it. It has pockets, a hood and it is crazy comfortable which makes me happy. Oh so sew, happy! 

The pattern is well drafted and everything came together nicely. I didn't follow the directions all that closely on this one since I've already made one and it is pretty simple to put together once you already had a go at it. I should mention that I typically sew a size 14 (medium) but this is described as a "loose-fitting" jacket so I went with a small (size 8-10). I'm glad that I did use the smaller size because I like the fit around the shoulders, upper bodice and sleeves. And since I'm a petite sized gal, just skimming five feet, I shortened the length on the two lower tiers. This alteration gave me the length I wanted and it didn't throw off the proportions of the tiers.     

The Fabric:

I picked up this sweatshirt fleece at Fabricland a couple of months ago. This sweatshirt fleece has a higher percentage of cotton than the first jacket I made. It has more body to it as well and even though it's cotton it feels quite warm. Perfect for this weather. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer on a normal setting before I cut into it. And it handled this treatment very well.  

I used cotton twill tape along the shoulder and the front edge where the zipper was inserted. I used a two-way separating zipper. I would have loved to use a bright coloured metal zipper on the front, maybe orange or yellow, but I couldn't find one long enough. There are lots of plastic zippers in longer lengths but they look cheap. I didn't want the cheap look, I wanted fun. Even though, I didn't find the zipper I had in mind, I'm thrilled with the look of the two-way zipper.  

Oh and the finger, the throbbing has stopped and it's healing nicely. I can't believe that I ran the sewing machine needle into my finger. Such a rookie move!  

I guess it was just a reminder to not rush a sewing project.  

The Stats:

Fabric:    2.6 metres $23.50 ($16.00 - 50% off + taxes) 

Ribbon:  2.5 metres $0.99 ($0.35 + taxes)

Zipper:    2-way separating zipper $12.40 ($21.95 - 50% off + taxes)

Thread:   $3.00 for the thread used in the sewing machine and serger.  

Additional Tools:  Serger, sewing machine, scissors, pins, cutting table, tweezers, screwdriver, walking foot and zipper foot.  

Happy Sewing!  

P.S.  If you would like to give this pattern a try, I'll be drawing for a uncut Butterick 6253 tomorrow. If you're interested leave a comment here.  

Tried 'n True Pattern

Stash-busting 2015:  New Dress and Jacket for Mama R

The pattern:  

This is Mama R's tried and true (TNT) pattern. Whenever she asks for a new dress, this is the pattern that she requests. Personally, I would be bored if I had a closet full of the same design but she loves it and who am I to judge. Besides, the style does look good on her.  

The design changes for the dress remain the same as the last million (actually, I've lost count) versions of this dress:  

• remove the the centre front seam by cutting on the the fold
• insert a centre back zipper
• grade the raglan sleeve seams down to a size 10, raising the neckline in the front.  
• lengthen the sleeves
• shorten the hemline 
• add front pockets.

This is the first time I made the jacket. The back pleat was removed along with the button and loop closure as per Mama R's request. I cut a straight size 14 and the fit around the shoulders, neckline and body of the jacket were perfect. Of course, I had to shorten the length of the jacket by 3 1/2 inches and the length on the sleeve by one and three-eighths.  

The Fabric:  

The fabric is from my stash. It is a cotton stretch sateen fabric that I picked up at Fabricland this past spring. My plan was to make a jumpsuit (Vogue 9075) until Mama R spotted it. I had three metres when Mama R expressed an interest in it, leading to a search for more. By that time, there was only one metre left on the bolt and I picked that up as well. Together, I had enough fabric to make the dress and jacket.  

I pre-shrunk the fabric by laundering it in the washing machine, a tumble in the dryer, and a good pressing before cutting the fabric. The fabric and colour handled well with these treatments. If you spot this fabric I would highly recommend that you pick some up--it really is lovely fabric.  It handled well during the laundry process and it is a dream to sew.

The Stats:

Fabrics:                     4  metres cotton sateen @ $59.66 ($22.00/metre - 40% off + taxes) 

Interfacing:               1.4 metres fusible interfacing @ $4.75 ($6.00/metre - 50% off + taxes)

Basting Tape:          1.12 metres @ $0.98/metre = $0.00 (birthday gift)

Thread:                     100% cotton thread @ $2.29 ($4.05 - 50% off + taxes) 

Zipper:                       22 inch invisible zipper @ $2.20 ($3.90 - 50% off + taxes)

Pattern:                      Simplicity 2372 (already priced out many moons ago)

Sewn on:                  Janome 4120 QDC using straight stitch for construction and top-stitching. 

Hand-stitching: Slip sttich (blind stitch) strategically stitched along facing and basting the side seams for fitting.  Hems were all hand-stitched.  

Seam finish:            Serged on Janome MyLock 234D

Mama R is happy with her new two-piece summer outfit.  And even though I lost a fabric that I was all smitten over, I'm really pleased that she's happy and the fabric turned into a nice outfit. Win-win! 

Happy Sewing!  

A Wearable Muslin

Stash-busting 2015:  A-line Skirt

Fabrics:                      1.6 metres printed cotton @ $11.53 ($6.78/metre) + 0.2 metre of fusible interfacing @ $0.95 ($6.78/metre) = $12.48

Basting Tape:          0.35 metres @ $0.98/metre = $0.34

Zipper:                       7 inch invisible zipper @ $0.50

Pattern:                      New Look 6108 = $6.72

Sewn on:                  Janome 4120 QDC using straight stitch for seams and top-stitching, blind hem foot used for the hem and stitched-in-the-ditch using a walking foot for the waistband.   

Hand-stitching:    Basting the hemline before taking it to the sewing machine to finish. And slip-stitching a small section of the waistband facing where it meets up with the zipper.   

Seam finish:            Serged on Janome MyLock 234D

This fabric is a 100% cotton print which I found on sale at the home decor department at Fabricland about a year or so ago. I can't exactly remember when I picked it up. The price was right for the weight of the cotton. The initial plan was to make a jacket from this fabric.  

The red invisible zipper was part of a notions grab bag that I found at the Salvation Army. I like shopping for vintage notions there because sometimes, like this time, I find cotton invisible zippers. Although the main colour of my fabric is a burnt orange there is some red accents in the fabric and the zipper tab colour doesn't stand out.  

The total cost of this project came to $19.04 which is a real bargain in my eyes because I have a garment that 

✓  is in a natural fabric
✓  fits!
✓  has orange, the happiest colour in the world, in it and
✓  has pockets

Gotta a love it when a pattern works out straight out of the envelope. It is a keeper for sure. I would certainly recommend this pattern if you like the A-line skirt style. I think it is a fun and easy pattern for beginners as well.  

I should note that I didn't follow the pattern instructions while sewing this pattern. The pattern calls for a lap zipper. I inserted an invisible zipper instead and therefore changed the order of construction.  First I sewed the back darts, attached the back waistband pieces and then sewed the invisible zipper. Then I moved onto the front pockets, waistband and then attached the front to back at the side seams. And it all worked out fine. It is a pretty straight-forward pattern. 

Happy Sewing!  

This Year's Biggest Sewing Challenge

Stash-busting 2014:  Little Velvet Dress

Fabric:             3 metres of cotton velvet and 0.5 metre of polyester lining

Zipper:             22" invisible zipper cut down to 16"

Pattern:            McCall's 5795

Bias Tape:        2" strip

Basting Tape:  44"

I don't know where to begin. First, I'm so thrilled that this is done. I can't believe it is done. 

This dress will go down as the most challenging project of 2014.  

Velvet proved to be an extremely challenging fabric to work with, but this dress is totally adorable and that makes it all worth it.  

The fabric has been in my stash for many many years. I can't remember where exactly I purchased it but I do know I picked it up in Toronto. It is a cotton velvet and I had enough yardage to cut out two dresses. This dress is a size eight and the second one currently on the sewing table is cut in a size five.  

Actually, everything used to make this dress was found in my stash with the exception of the invisible zipper.   

The pattern, McCall's 5795 is adorable and can be adapted into a special occasion or cute summer dress. It includes variations on sleeves and contrasting over-dresses. The pattern is for a fully lined dress but I chose to just line the bodice. And instead of a regular zipper I inserted an invisible zipper.  

I repurposed a belt that went with one of my own velvet skirts. It appears as a trim but I just put some snaps at the ends so that it can be worn as a belt.  

All that is left to do is finish the second one, give this one final "pressing" with the steamer and carefully fold this in tissue paper before I gift-wrap it.

Happy Sewing!

The Perfect Skirt

Stash Busting 2014:  (NY The Collection) McCall's 7870

Fabric:               2.2 metres cotton + 0.5 metres of interfacing

Zipper:              8" invisible zipper

Basting tape:    16" total

Snaps:               1 set (medium sized)

I made this skirt earlier this year as part of of Jungle January. And even though I am not a huge animal print wearing kind of gal, I like this skirt pattern so much that I would wear my animal print skirt more than I thought I would.  

This latest version is in a black cotton sateen fabric that has some stretch. It has been in my fabric stash for about a year. I chose a fusible knit interfacing for the front facing and back waistband pieces that has been in my stash for much longer. The zipper and snap were also stash busted for this project.

My favourite parts of the skirt is the double pleated kick pleat, front tucks, and top-stitched darts. The double pleated kick pleat makes this skirt wearable even though it is a slim fitting skirt that is just above the ankle length. 

Let's talk about the pattern for a moment. The shoulder pads on the peplum jacket pattern would have me guessing it was something from the 1980s. The pattern is vintage but not that old. It dates back to 1995 and is from The Collection NY by McCall's patterns. I found it on etsy.com and to be completely honest I would have skipped over it if the seller did not include the line drawings on the listing. The pattern photos don't showcase the details that make this skirt so unique.    

This skirt pattern is for sure a keeper. How about you, do you have a favourite skirt pattern that you would like to re-visit? 

Happy Sewing!