National Dress Up Your Pet Day!

When it comes to celebrating, do you include your pets in the festivities?  Well, today happens to be National Dress Up Your Pet day.  Of course, not recommended if your pet is not into the fête fun.  But if your pet companion is game, there are some sewing pattern options to consider for dressing up for the occasion.  Or just celebrating them any day.  

What about feline friends that want to get in the action?  The Big Four pattern companies seem to be dog lovers.  But the web is full of feline fashion options.  Have you been busy sewing something special for your furry friends?  

Happy Sewing!

June in Review...

As things start to re-open in this part of the country, there is certainly a shift in how I view things that I took for granted pre-pandemic.  I count my blessings that I have the equipment, supplies and skills needed to create my own wardrobe and mend clothes.  Shopping for clothes is the last thing I could imagine wanting to do at this time.  I get the sense that it is something felt by others as there has been a noticeable increase of people asking me to sew for them. 

The thought of sewing for others at this time makes me feel very uncomfortable. The idea of standing close to someone during a fitting is not in my comfort zone at all.  But yet, I am working on a bridal project that I never imagined that I would be partaking in during a pandemic.  Strange times.   

Sadly, the project has very large pattern pieces that won't fit on my cutting table. And this ol' aching body is not ready to head back to the chiropractor and lay face down on a table for 20 to 30 minutes. I'm going to have to figure out a safe way to lay out the fabric and get it cut without kneeling on the floor and twisting my body. My back and knees are not looking forward to the cutting stage of this project. I spent a couple of days this weekend with pain meds and laying in bed after altering the pattern pieces and marking the test fabric. It was not a fun weekend. There has to be a solution I haven't figured out yet. Suggestions are most welcome.   

Sewing wise, I continued to sew small items that fit on my cutting table from fabrics found in my stash.  Although, I did add to the stash this month, 6 metres of a test fabric for the bridal cape and it's not enough. I'll have to head back to the store for more. ~sigh~  Shopping for fabric at this time is also not in my comfort zone.  I think this is the first time I can say that sewing and fabric shopping are not relaxing activities.  

This month I managed to cut 20 scrub caps (seven of the twenty are sewn), made 2 face masks, 1 top, 1 coat, 2 slips, 2 baby onesies, 1 eye glass case and 1 pair of pants.  

• 28.9 metres
• 1 metre of interfacing
• 1.9metres of elastic
• 3.8 metres of bias tape
• 2 metres of twill tape
• 1 new, previously-owned pattern
• 4 previously used patterns 
• 2 free PDF patterns
• 3 snaps
• 3 buttons
• 2 labels

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Coat: OOP Burda Style 7028

It's hot outside and the mosquitos are out. And as news outlets are talking about the pandemic's second wave, the executive director of the World Health Organization (WHO) warns that globally "we're right in the middle of the first wave." All good reasons, I think, to stay indoors and finish off a coat.  

Actually, I didn't think that I would finish this coat, it was meant to be a toile to test out the fit. As the outer shell came together, I decided to go ahead and cut out the lining pieces. What I need is a short winter coat and even though this one won't work at keeping me warm during a deep freeze it will work in those early autumn months before the snow settles on the ground.  The plan was to try out this pattern before committing my last piece of wool coating fabric to the project.  

It's out-of-print OOP Burda 7028 and I picked up this pattern because it was advertised as a Miss Petite sized pattern drafted for a five foot, three inch body. Close enough I thought. If I revisit this pattern for the shorter length coat that I want to have for the winter, I will shorten it at the seam for the mid-section of the coat, raising the pockets to a more comfortable height. This will also shorten the back hem to just above the knee on my five foot and a bit height.  

The pattern is fine. I like the cocoon shape of the coat that reminds me of something out of the 1920s.  I'm not a fan of the dropped shoulder but I can live with it. As it is, this wearable toile is something that will be easy to throw on for running errands. 

My outer fabric dictated the closure choice. Buttons were not an option because the uneven texture of this embroidered corduroy fabric would make buttonholes difficult to navigate. Throughout the sewing process, the sewing machine needle often became "stuck" in the thickness of the embroidery and pulled out of the shaft. So snaps seemed like the most logical decision. Luckily these were in the notions stash, for decades, as the card holder indicated that it was purchased at Courage My Love. I haven't been there in many, many moons.  

The heavily embroidered narrow-wade corduroy is also from the previous century. This fabric made it into my stash when there was still a Fanny Fabrics in the city. The cotton back kasha lining fabric is from this century. 

Project Details

Seams:  Straight stitch 2.8 length

Seam Finish:  Most interior edges were serged.  Finish on the sleeve hems were finished with a zig-zag stitch.  

Tips:  A clapper comes in handy for achieving a nice crisp press at the edges.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Lining:  2 metres (I had to cut several pattern pieces on the cross grain to make this quantity work)

Snaps:  3 - 1" 

Pattern:  OOP Burda Style 7028

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, thimble, and many breaks.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Day 9: Me-Made-May '19

Fifty-six percent me-made items were worn today (5 out of 9).  

The skirt was recently modified from it's original state as a dress (Burda Style 6321). Sometimes sewing projects don't work out as expected. I really like the fabric and wanted to try to save it. It's a cotton sateen with a bit of stretch.  And the colour just makes me so happy.  Frank is right about orange. And today was a day that I really wanted some colour.  

This shirt (Vogue 1503) is one of my favourite makes. It's made out of a mystery fabric that was labelled as a wool at the fabric store but it doesn't wear like a wool. I'm not quite sure what it is really.  

Other me-made clothing worn today were knickers (Simplicity 8228), cork handbag (McCall's 7851), flannel pajama bottons (Vogue 9217) and t-shirt (OOP Vogue 9028).  And RTW items were a sweater and other undergarments

Happy Sewing!

Rescue Sewing

Do you remember this?

This is BurdaStyle 6321 and I made it last month.  I haven't worn it since.  I tried it on a few times and then after some fiddling and critiquing, it quickly came off.  It just didn't make me feel good while wearing it. The more I fussed with it, the more I realized it wasn't my style really.  There were some things that I did like about it, the double breasted look and pockets.  The fit above the waistline was not my favourite nor was it doing anything for my petite body shape.  So I decided that it would either end up in the donate or rescue pile.  Considering that it was Fashion Revolution week, donating another garment that may or may not find a new home just didn't sit well with my conscious.  

This is all about rescue sewing.  I started by laying it out on the table and cutting at the position of the first functioning button and buttonhole.  Trying it on reveals that it is too loose at the waistline to sew a waistband.  And I struggled to decided how to treat the waistband.  I did have enough left-over fabric to cut a waistband but did I want the bulk?  First I had to give the skirt portion more shape.  There were two darts added to the back where the princess seam was located.  

I decided to finish the skirt with bias tape, turning over and topstitching in place. It was finished with a snap and hook & eye closure at the top.  

Now, this is something I know I will wear.  

Happy Sewing!  

Trench Dress: Burda Style 6321

The chic nature of the trench dress soared as a trend to watch when in 2018 Meaghan Markle appeared in a blush pink sleeveless trench dress by Canadian fashion designer Nina Khaney's fashion label Nonie. 

The Inspiration dress

{Source}

The trend took off from there. The trench dress is still available on Nonie's website for a cool $1,085 (Cdn).  As well, independent and the Big Four pattern companies are coming out with their own version of the trench / coat dress.  Sure, the trench has been around since the first world war and adapted as a fashionable look well before this event. Even Tim Gunn as long sang the praises of a good trench coat.  

I'm not really one to follow the latest trends these days, let alone drop a grand on a garment. But I am someone who will be inspired to make something I like to fit my taste. This is how BurdaStyle 6321 ended up on my cutting table. It had the double breasted button front and princess seams that I like in the Nonie version Meaghan Markle was photographed wearing and with some tweaking I have to say, I'm okay with how it turned out. It's nothing like the inspiration dress as mine doesn't have a capelet or the stand up collar and it has sleeves, but this one works for me. And the added bonus, it's in, as Frank Sinatra would say, the happiest colour. 

I removed the waistline seam and cut the bodice and skirt pieces as one. And I added pockets to the side seam adapting out-of-print Vogue 8934 pocket pattern to this design. I'm not too crazy about the button placement on this pattern, it probably doesn't help that I'm a petite sized person and those top buttons are at the perfect placement where I'd rather not draw attention to, I'm going to have to rethink the placement maybe even consider removing them. After that, I think this might be a good work dress.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.8 metres

Interfacing:  2 metres

Buttons:  11 - 18 cm 

Patterns:  BurdaStyle 6321 and Vogue 8934

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Scissors, pins, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, tailor's mitt, clapper, collar press, iron, ironing board, hand needle, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, serger, threads, seam ripper, buttonhole cutter and a chai tea latte.   

Happy Sewing!  

The Verdict is In

Back in November, I embarked on a little experiment to see if wearing a natural fibre wardrobe would have an impact on my allergies and sinus issues.  

It appears that it did. As the camera went up my nose, it was the clearest picture I've seen. Coincidence? I don't think so. When a change in lifestyle could produce such drastic results it's hard to ignore. And this winter, even with the brutal cold and wind chills, has been the first winter I remember living here that I haven't used an inhaler. [knock on wood]. Coincidence?   

It's official, I'm now going to clear my closet of all of the man-made fabrics that I have put into storage since the beginning of this journey. I can't tell you what fibres are the culprit, or if it's dyes, or chemical treatments on the fabric. All I know is that I'm feeling better since this lifestyle change and I'm going to stick to it. Life is too short to be dealing with allergy and sinus issues.  

It all started when I made this jacket, Kwik Sew 4197. So, without a doubt, this jacket is the first to go. There is a small part of me that is a bit sad to see it go as it was a jacket that really wanted to sew and it is quite warm. But I'm sure I'll get over it.  

This turtleneck sweater dress, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8939, has been a winter time staple but since is has a petroleum based fibre content I'm going to let it go as well.  

Another petroleum based fibre made into a dress that I loved wearing because of the print. It will also be leaving the wardrobe. If I could survive three and a half months without them, I'm sure I can let them go for good.  

But giving up this spring coat, OOP Burda Style 7304, will hurt the most. ~sigh~  I hope it will find a good home.

Do any of your sewing projects leave your closet and end up in other places than you intended?

Happy sewing!

January In Review...

Sewing:

Top L to R:  Coat, a Marcy Tilton design, Vogue 8934; waffle weave cotton robe, vintage Butterick 5556; half slip, Vogue 1410; knit cape-styled top, McCall's 7541; floral print top, Vogue 9028; two full slips, OOP Burda 6964; cotton dress, Simplicity  2372; animal print top; OOP McCall's 7946; two camisoles, OOP Burda 6964; three microwave bowl cozies.  

I spent 92.75 hours on sewing projects this month.  It turned out this is how I spent most of my free time while laid off from work. And then work at the sewing table slowed down to a halt since sitting is proving to be quite painful after a nasty fall. I'm anxiously counting down until I can enjoy some more sewing time, soon I hope. Five out of the fourteen items I made were for moi, two were for the Etsy shop and the rest were gifted to Mama R.

I only made one item for Jungle January, a tee-shirt. There were big plans as I started off the new year plotting my participation.

I picked up this piece of fabric last year after I made the cape. I thought perhaps another cape? The plan changed when Vogue 1494 came onto the scene. But then plans were interrupted.

  

And these jungle-worthy fabrics were also planned for something frisky to wear. The animal print above has been in the stash for years and I had a top in mind using OOP Butterick 5561. The lighter coloured fabric found it's way into my collection, waiting to be turned into a pussy-bow styled shirt using Vogue 9029. I won't be packing them away because Anne is right, we should let our animal prints roam outside of Jungle January festivities. So when my injured parts are mended, I'll try to get on that.   

RTW & Fabric Fast:

Woohoo!  Another month without buying any ready-to-wear. I wish I could say the same about fabric fasting. I stumbled this month in that department.

Fabricland had a sale on kasha lining fabric which rarely goes on sale so when it does, I try to pick some up. And then there was some linen, lobster print cotton and black wool in the 70% off department that I couldn't resist. Even though I didn't uphold to my fabric fast I did stay true to avoiding man-made fibres. Since I haven't been able to sew since the injury, I shopped for fabric to make myself feel better. My bad. It didn't work, I much rather prefer to be sewing.

Just like the RTW fast in it's early days, this fabric fast thing is turning out to be quite the challenge. I'll try again next month.  

The Stats:

Supplies	Quantity Used from the stash this Month	Quantity Used this Year	Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape	1.12 metres	1.12 metres	0
Bias Tape	1.8 metres	1.8 metres	0
Buttons	14	14	6
Chain	0	0	0
Cord Stopper	0	0	0
Elastic	0.8 metres	0.8 metres	0
Fabric	22.2 metres	22.2 metres	16.9 metres
Fusible Tape	8 metres	8 metres	0
Hand needles	1	1	0
Hook and Eyes	0	0	0
Interfacing	2.1 metres	2.1 metres	1 metres
Lace trim	2.6 metres	2.6 metres	0
Pattern (new)	3	3	2
Pattern (previously used--TNT)	5	5	0
Ribbon	0	0	0
Serger needles	0	0	0
Serger thread	3	3	0
Sewing machine needles	0	0	0
Snaps	0	0	0
Thread	6	6	3
Trim	0	0	0
Velcro	0	0	0
Zipper	1	1	0

Happy Sewing!

Burda 6964: All Pieces Are Completed!

Mama R now has a complete set of camisoles and slips. It took me longer than I planned. Slept in, dealt with waking up with stuffed up sinuses, morning coffee, break to make and eat egg nog French toast, back to work on the camisoles and slips, stretching breaks, and then finally I can call this project complete!  

I woke up to two more slips that needed the Knit 'N Stitch™ tape to be fused to the neck and underarm edges before serging, and then sewing. Mama R didn't want the bottom edges of the camisoles treated with Knit 'N Stitch™ tape. I was willing to do it but Mama R felt that it was unnecessary. Whatever Mama R wants... 

I used the same bias tape, circa 1970-80, as I used on the first camisole. The ends were treated with Fray Check™ and left to dry while I ate breakfast.  

Once they were dry and breakfast was done, it was back to work. The ends were rolled and pressed in order to cut down any potential shifting when it came to attaching them to the camisole and slips. 

The hems of the slips were finished with beige lace trimming that I found in my stash.

The lace trim is a pretty finish at the hem and will help in the prevention of the slips riding up. It is nice to finally have these done. Mama R hasn't seen them yet but my fingers are crossed that she's be pleased.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.3 metres

Lace Trim:  2.6 metres

Fusible Bias Tape:  3.75 metres

Bias Tape:  1.8 metres

Pattern:  Burda 6964 (tweaked)

Time:  I invested 6 hours into the preparation and construction of these slips and camisoles.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, walking foot, serger, tweezers, scissors, thread clippers, polyester thread, pins, cutting table, iron, ironing board, some fuel, and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!  

Burda: 6964: Camisoles and Slips

Mama R asked me to make her a camisole quite some time ago. I feel like a bad daughter for taking so long to complete such a simple request. Thankfully, she's just happy to finally have it and hasn't given me a hard time about the long wait.  

I'm quite embarrassed that it has taken so long to complete because this project was easy-peasy easy. The pattern is Burda 6964 but I have to admit that it doesn't look anything like the pattern photo or line drawings.

I can't find the pattern listed on the Simplicity website anymore but it does appear to be available over at Pattern Review in case you're interested. I basically tweaked the pattern according to this slip which I made using the Burda pattern. I re-cut the neckline according to the slip and used bias tape for the straps.  

The fabric I found last month at Northwest Fabrics and is the same fabric that I used to make my half slip. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer. The edges around the neckline and underarm areas were fused with Knit-N-Stable™tape before stitched with a narrow hem. The bottom hem was left as is after a run through the serger. Besides using the serger, the project was completed with the stem stitch (as known as the knit, or lightning bolt stitch). 

And I'm currently working on one more camisole and two slips for Mama R and hopefully this will make up for taking oh-so-long to complete this request. I should have them finished after my morning coffee. 

The Stats:  

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  Burda 6964

Fusible Seam Tape:  1.25 metres

Time:  I invested 2.5 hours into the preparation of the fabric and the construction of these slips and camisole.  

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, thread, iron, ironing board, cutting table, pins,  scissors, and stretching breaks.  

Happy Sewing!  

Refashioned Leather Jacket

Sometimes I shop at the second hand store for clothes to harvest the fabric. This red leather shirt is the perfect example.  

I picked up this oversized shirt a couple of years ago thinking that I would use it in a bag but then I saw this jacket over at Communing with Fabric and my creative juices started thinking that I need to switch up my plans. The pattern I used for this project was the same that Shams used, Burda 7183, I just omitted the zipper.

Burda 7183 will go down as a TNT pattern. I cut a size 14 and there were no issues with fit. Although the pattern calls for knit fabrics, it worked out fine in the leather as well. My biggest challenge was how making the pattern pieces fit. 

I was working with a size XS leather shirt from Danier Leather which meant that I had to do a lot of seam ripping work in order to utilize all the fabric that I needed. And we're talking down to the millimetre!  

It was worth it, as I was able to squeak out just enough to create the jacket I wanted. Thank goodness for eighties oversized styles.

This is how it turned out. I love it. It would be a nice little topper for the late summer / early fall. Shams finished her jacket with fold over elastic and I did consider this option because it looked so good on her jacket. I changed my mind because I couldn't find a matching colour nor one that I thought looked suitable. So I decided to leave the edges raw.

Now the question remains, what to do with the left over pieces?  

The Stats:

Fabric:   1 - XS leather shirt

Pattern:  Burda 7183

Needle:  1 leather

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, thread, walking foot, seam ripper, scissors, threat clippers, tweezers, cutting table, paper clips, and some background noise from the television.

Happy Sewing!  

A Few Snips Here and...

Well, I found the roll of fusible stretch tape that I was looking for. And after a few snips here and there to remove the bias mess I made of the neckline. I then trimmed and reshaped the armhole and neckline before fusing the bias fusible strips. It worked better than I hoped it would.  

The fusible tape gave the fabric the structure that it needed to be folded over and top-stitched creating a nice clean finish.  I also used it on the bottom hem. For the straps, I used some vintage bronze coloured bias tape from Mama R's stash. Seriously, it must have originated from the seventies. But it worked perfectly with this fabric.  

And the best part, Mama R is over-the-moon with her new slip.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:           1.2 metres knit lace

Knit Bias Tape:   2 metres  

Fusible Tape:     3.2 metres

Bias Tape:        1 metre  

Pattern:          Burda Style 6964

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Janome sewing machine and serger, new sewing machine needle, walking foot, scissors, thread clippers, pins, cutting table, iron, ironing board, time to sleep on it and figure out my next move, coffee, and breaks here and there.  

Happy Sewing!  

Year in Review: Top Ten Favourites

These are my favourite makes this year (in no specific order).

1.  Lynn Mizono's loose-fitting dress, Vogue 1410, has to be my favourite dress. I wear it with a turtleneck in the cooler weather and its a go-to in the warmer temperatures too. I have some brown wool crepe in my stash that I picked up to make another version. This one turned out to be a wearable muslin and I wear it more than I thought I would.  

2.  The Cardigan Style Jacket. Vogue 8916 was discovered by Mama R and this jacket has to be a favourite make for many reasons. First, because Mama R loves it and it fits her well. Secondly, because I took my time and paid attention to the little details and even though they are unseen that make the world of difference to the final product. 

3.  The houndstooth pattern suit. I had to make another jacket using Vogue 8916 but this time I made a skirt to go with it. Simplicity 2372 is the pattern used for the skirt. Both pieces are unlined with silk organza.  

4.  The Donna Karan cream coloured jacket, Vogue 1263, makes it to my top 10 list for sure. I've been wearing it quite a bit this autumn and it does wash well. I feel like a great when I wear this one.  

5.  Marcy Tilton's knit skirt pattern is another favourite. This skirt, Vogue 9060, is so comfortable and it is a well drafted pattern. The fabric is a textured floral print on a cotton knit.  

6.  The classic white shirt. My favourite detail on this shirt has to be the french cuffs and the tucks. It is a Lida Baday design from a out-of-print McCall's 8943 pattern. If you find this pattern, I would highly recommend that you pick it up.

7.  Kickin' Knickers!  Seriously, finally making a pair of undies that fit and feel comfortable with great butt coverage that doesn't ride up, I can't put into words how much joy this pattern has brought to the sewing room. I actually made a total of six pairs. Butterick 6031 is worth its weight in gold.

8.  The sewing club sewing was the cherry on the cake. Oh my gosh, the kids were amazing, and creative and willing to learn. It was the most joyful and hectic mornings I spent sewing.

9.  The Velvet dresses. Yes, despite working with the challenging fabric, these velvet dresses made it to the list. I learned so much about sewing through this project and that it truly takes a village to create a beautiful dress. I couldn't have pulled it off without the help found in Linda Lee's article "Velvet Indulgence." McCall's came out with a perfect dress pattern for any occasion. Even though I vowed to never sew velvet ever again, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend McCall's 5795.

10.  The turtleneck sweater will go down as my favourite sweater pattern. It is made with Burda 6990 and it is comfortable and practical for the prairie winters.

So, theses were my favourite makes. How about you, what is on your favourite made list?

Happy Sewing!