In Sewing News Today

This first week of Me Made May (MMM) flew by in a blink of an eye.  

Top row, L to R:  Toaster sweater by Sew House Seven made in 2026.  A remodel of my favourite skirt pattern Vogue 1247 (front) and vintage Vogue 9918 to make a pull-on elastic back skirt made in 2026.  Black merino wool cardigan made in 2022 with Kwik Sew 4192.  
Middle row:  Wool pull-on pants made in 2026 with Butterick 6717.  Pink pullover dress made with Butterick 6784 in 2025.  A raw silk pullover made with The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern in 2025.  
Bottom row:  Cotton pullover dress made in 2025 with Butterick 6784.  And what I live in most of the time, flannel pajamas.  These two sets are made with Butterick 6296 for the tops and Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  They were made in 2024 and 2022.  

I'm not really photo documenting what I wear this MMM.  I just don't have the time.  Besides, everyday is a "me made" day.  Same old, some new.  May usually means yardwork so I'm wearing grubby "me made" clothes that I don't mind getting dirty.  And then sometimes, I might throw on a dress or dress pants and clean myself up.   

Being May means unpredictability with the weather.  This past week we've seen temperatures one day in the +20 Celsius range as well as snow flakes and near zero temps.  So throw in a mix of cardigans and winter jackets and I do believe I wore a tuque this week.  

In sewing news, I did journey into the Sudoku challenge that ends tomorrow.  I also threw up a white flag and deleted the grid last weekend.  It was more difficult than I could imagine to sew up ten pieces in nine weeks.  I admire those who were able to accomplish all of the sewing and come up with eight cohesive outfits plus photos.  I was two items short when I threw up the white flag.  So close.  It was fun for awhile. 

Now, that I am no longer under a time crunch, I would like to revisit Named Clothing's Anneli top pattern which I made for the Sudoku challenge.  And I have a request for cotton knit cycling shorts to sew.   

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

2025 in Review

The Round-up

This past year I made a total of thirty-nine sewing projects:  

• 5 scoliosis back brace undershirts (Vogue 9057)
• 1 scoliosis back brace pajama top (Vogue 1852)
• 1 blanket (No pattern used)
• 5 skirts (OOP Vogue 2327, OOP Vogue 1247, The Assembly Line's Tulip skirt, Daughter Judy's Henry skirt)
• 7 pullover dresses (Merchant and Mills Trapeze dress, Vogue 9268, Butterick 6784, McCall's 7709)
• 2 scarves (No pattern used and OOP Vogue 2793)
• 8 pullover tops (The Assembly Line's Puffed sleeve shirt, OOP Butterick 6859, The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater, McCall's 7709, Style Arc's Elita Designer Jacket / Top, OOP Vogue 2334)
• 1 pair of panties (OOP Simplicity 8229)
• 1 nursing baby cover (No pattern used)
• 1 pair of leggings (McCall's 7709)
• 1 baby onesie (McCall's 7367)
• 3 saddle covers for the back brace (No pattern used)
• 3 pairs of pants (Vogue 1739 and Butterick 6717)

Eight projects were gifted and and seven projects did not work out.  

Vogue patterns continued to play a leading role at the cutting table but there were some new patterns that I tried this year.  Twenty twenty-five was the first time I tried Style Arc, Merchant and Mills and Daughter Judy patterns.  Many patterns were repeats as they were tried and true patterns from the stash.  

There was a lot of stash busting this year.

• 62.6 metres of fabric
• 4 buttons
• 5 snaps
• 1 zippers
• 15 labels
• 6.1 metres elastic
• 1.2 metres basting tape
• 11.2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 0.5 twill tape
• 1 hook and eye set
• a whole lot of thread!

January

I slowly started to make my way back to the sewing machine.  There was work to do and projects that needed to get done.  There was the upholstery repair that I put off for years.  And the need to make undergarments to wear under the scoliosis back brace that could prevent the abrasion wounds under my arms.  Along with a box of socks that need mending.  

And sewing became political before the convicted felon even took office with his threats to use economic force via tariffs to hurt and annex Canada.  It is an act of economic war.  My 2025 sewing goal became to sew from the stash and if I needed any supplies, I vowed to not support the convicted felon's economy while the annexation threats and maneuvers persist.  Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing became my focus as the country navigates the global upheaval and chaos from the convicted felon from our geographic neighbour.   

February

After stitching a prototype of a scoliosis back brace undershirt, I stitched more.  There was a piece of fabric that was turned into a blanket just to clear it out of the stash.  And I made something just for me, a wool wrap skirt.  

Sewing remains political as I compiled a list of Canadian fabric outlets.  The country mobilized to take action against the disrespectful rhetoric and act of economic war coming from the convicted felon's government and his supporters towards my country and others.  There is a grass-root national and global boycott of  U.S. products and travel.  

March

There really wasn't a focus on sewing projects this month.  I stash busted some leftover wool fabric into a scarf and made a wearable toile for a dress that I actually wanted to make last year.  And then there was an upholstery repair job that I should have addressed last year.  

Sewing remains political and the boycott continues.  

April 

I rediscovered my sewing mojo in sewing some denim projects.  The skirt is made with a cherished and vintage Vogue pattern and has been seeing a lot of wear since it was made.  The top is not experiencing the same kind of love since it shrank after the first wear despite pre-shrinking the fabric.  I should have known better and pre-washed denim several times before cutting.   

Sewing is becoming a reprieve from the chaos and callous actions from the convicted felon and his cohort.  The boycott continues but it's heartbreaking to watch what is happening around the world.  I sometimes wonder if the boycott is making an impact.  

May

It appears that the theme this year is getting to those projects that long needed to be addressed, using up scraps and finishing long forgotten project.  One of those long forgotten projects was this partially sewn pair of panties from a year ago.  And that's it, it was pretty quiet at the work space.  

The boycott continues as does the global trade war.  The convicted felon even put tariffs on Heard and McDonald Islands--two tiny Antarctic islands occupied by penguins and seals.  Yup, that right.  Even penguins and seals are dragged into the global tariff war.  I'm finding escape in the garden and kitchen instead of the sewing machine.  Frugal / austerity chic is dominating my sewing and grocery decisions.  I'm making cheese, sundried tomatoes and spiced nuts at home as grocery store prices around the globe are an issue in part thanks to the convicted felon's trade war and corporate greed.  These activities are replacing my time at the sewing machine.  

June 

Wildfires in the our country are displacing thousands from their homes and wildfire smoke is felt here in the city.  This is pulling me back indoors and towards the sewing machine.  

This month the Big Four patterns were sold into liquidation proceeding and the local Fabricland stores that carries their patterns has started selling them off.  IG Design Group said that US tariffs were a contributing factor to the liquidation sale.  I broke my goal of avoiding US products momentarily to take advantage of the deep discounts on the patterns.  

July

I don't know if it's the lack of rain or the smoky air that is causing an unconventional harvest time.  The apples are falling from the tree so early and sending me into apple pie and juice making sooner than I normally would be harvesting apples.  And with all the displacement of people and loss of life from the wildfires, U.S. lawmakers complained about Canadian wildfire smoke travelling south is "making it difficult for some Americans to enjoy their summer."  This fanned the flames on the elbows up movement.    

This month was quiet at the sewing machine but busy at the cutting table.  

August

Wildfire smoke continues to be an issue and likely why I managed to stay indoors and sew.  

There was a burst of sewing activity this month, it was about revisiting some previously loved TNT patterns and some gift sewing projects.  I was actually shocked at how much sewing was completed considering all the yardwork there was to do and trying to keep up with the apple harvest.  I can't wait for the cooler weather to arrive and for things to slow down in the yard.  

September

Finally, some cooler weather.  I don't deal well with the heat and this summer was horrible with all the wildfire smoke we had to deal with this year.  More often than not, it was hard to breath with the smoke.  I don't recall previous wildfire seasons being this bad.  

I am longing for the cooler days of autumn and giddy with the thought that winter will soon arrive.  Fingers crossed.  And my sewing projects reflected this anticipation.  

October

No one is more shocked than I that there was actually sewing done this month.  

There is a new scoliosis back brace that I'm trying to break in and for that to happen, I need to address a section that is pushing up my left underarm and creating pressure marks.  In the end, I didn't get much use of it as most of the month was trying to deal with a cough that wouldn't quit.  It's hard to to wear a rigid brace when you're coughing up a lung or two.  

November

The tariff war continues and it is now to the point that the convicted felon and his cohort are a cringe worthy joke.  Sewing is a reprieve from the horror show playing out on the news channels.  And to add to all the sadness, there hasn't been any snow yet.  I really wish it would snow.  

To get ready for winter, if it decides to make an appearance, I made a new pajama top to wear underneath my back brace.  I will be able to pull the hemline up and cover the Velcro straps to protect the bedding and even my pajamas.  But my heart is longing to sew something fun and cozy.  

December

It finally snowed!  Alleluia!  And with that, the chill of winter arrived and fuels my desire stay indoors and sew.  I finally got around to sewing that something fun and cozy, an oversized sweatshirt made with a vintage Issey Miyake pattern.  It turns out to be my favourite make of the year.  

Would you believe that the last month of the year was one of the busiest at the sewing work table?  

Here's to wishing peace in the world and an end to all the wars, whether they be military actions or economic / tariff wars.  

Wishing all, peace in the world, an abundance of kindness in 2026 and joyful memories made at the sewing machine.  May all your projects fit the way you like!  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Top Five Sewing Mistakes of 2025

And there were sewing mistakes or questionable decisions make at the workspace.  

1.  This is The Assembly Line's (TAL) puffed sleeve shirt.  Where did I go wrong on this one?  It was my fabric choice.  It would have made it on the top five favourites list if I chose a better fabric and it didn't continue to shrink after a second wash.  Yes, I did pre-shrink the fabric before it hit the cutting table but it did not hold up well at all.  It did not even make it to the donate pile, it shrunk that much.  

2.  This is another TAL top, but please don't just the pattern company by it's second appearance on this list.  I do like working with TAL patterns.  I cut this one in a size large and the neckline is too wide.  It looks sloppy.  I should have cut it out in the small size and maybe a couple of sizes smaller in the neckline.  It's currently sitting in the donation pile along with the plaid version of this top.   

3.  This is the first Merchant and Mills sewing pattern I worked with and I did not chose the right size, it's too big in the neckline and armholes and it just doesn't sit right in this area.  And I struggled with sewing the facing piece.  I ended up hand stitching the neckline opening.  I am torn with what to do with this one.  I would like to try to save fabric and make something else with it.  

4.  This is actually a TNT pattern, OOP Vogue 9268, but again it was miscalculating sizing and poor fabric decisions.  The fabric has a lot of drape and the hem hung too low and then I cut it to fix that problem but now it's too short for my liking.  It's likely heading to the donation pile.  

5.  Another new-to-me pattern, Daughter Judy's Henry skirt.  I got the sizing all wrong.  I tried to follow the measurements but it came out too big and I feel frumpy wearing this but that could also be thanks to the wool blend fabric I chose.  It make it to the donation pile.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Raw Silk Sweater: The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

While waiting for out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 to arrive, I have kept myself busy by revisiting The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern since the toile turned out well.  Here is my silk version.  

There is something special involved with sewing with a natural fibre fabric.  As well as wearing it.  Sadly, the fabric stores and even the stores selling RTW clothing are filled with man-made fibre fabrics.  It's a rare treat to sew and wear raw silk.  Locally, Fabricland currently sells raw silk but at $80 (Cdn) / metre, it's a luxury fabric that is not in today's budget.  This is a re-sell piece pulled from the stash. 

This project was sewn with the same modifications made with the toile version.  The sleeve length was shortened three inches.  The shoulder bands and armhole seams are sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams were sewing with the recommended 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made project that wasn't hit by tariffs.  Everything used in the making of this top were from non-American retailers and purchased prior to the economic war on Canada and insulting annexation rhetoric.  

The medium weight silk fabric was a previously owned piece found at Winnipeg Sews.  Winnipeg Sews sadly closed down six months ago.  Some how it seems longer than six months but I digress.  The rib knit came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  

After stitching the lower band, I noticed a tiny hole in the back.  Of course, it was on the right side of the garment.  Drats!  I didn't notice this flaw when cutting out the pattern piece and wonder if it became damaged during the sewing process.  Oh well, it won't be noticed when worn, just a quick couple of hand stitches and the hole was closed.  

The sewing pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish company.  The Coats and Clark threads used on the sewing machine and serger were from the stash.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabrics:  2.5 metres of silk and 0.6 metres of rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater S:202

Label:  "Bespoke" KATM sewing label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, assorted objects used as pattern weights, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, ruler, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, new sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, Chai latte, scoliosis back brace and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Happy Canada Day!

This is an important Canada Day as our country continues to be under threat.  It's also a day to be grateful and to count our blessings.  

Canada Day outfit:  Red and white maple leaf print cotton top, OOP Butterick 6325, circa 2020 worn with a white cotton sateen pull-on skirt, The Assembly Line's A-line midi skirt, circa 2024.

I'm grateful that I live in a country that is kind and cares about others.  I am grateful and blessed that I live in a democracy.  I'm blessed to live in a diverse and generous country.  Even though Canadians may disagree with each other from time-to-time, for the most part we're respectful and stand together as a nation.  I am blessed to live in a country that cares about the environment and takes care of our national parks.  I am grateful for a country that has healthcare.  I am grateful for the community organizations that care of the poor, those without food and those that need help.  I am grateful for governments and community members that work towards ending homelessness and affordability issues.  I am grateful for the beauty that this country has to offer from it's vibrant urban centres to the rural and northern communities.  I'm am grateful for clean water and a place to call home.  I am blessed that I get to live in a country that has four distinct seasons.  I am grateful that I get to enjoy the beauty of the first snowfall at the start of each winter season.  I am grateful for Canada.  

Happy Canada Day!  

I Do Like a Plaid: TAL's High Cuff Sweater / T:202

This is The Assembly Line's T:202, High Cuff Sweater.  This pattern may make it back on the cutting table sometime soon as this is one comfortable top and it's a well drafted pattern that was a pleasure to sew.  

The plaid fabric is a 100% cotton and the ribbing is a cotton knit leftover from this project.  Both fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer cycles before hitting the worktable.  The plaid fabric was a remnant piece measuring 1.1 metres and if it weren't for shortening the sleeve length, I wouldn't have enough fabric.  I did take Anna's suggestion of adding 3/4" to the length to the neckline band and I'm glad that I did.  The shoulder and armhole seams were sewing with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams and bands were sewn with the recommended one centimeter seam allowance.  

The waistband has a lovely curve that gives this top a nice fit in the back.  The only change I might do on another version is to just shorten the sleeve length a wee bit more.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to emerge from the sewing machine during the convicted felon's economic war on the world.  All of the supplies and fabric were found in the stash.  The pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish pattern company.  The fabrics were found many moons ago at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The black Gütermann threads were pulled from the stash and were picked up from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres of 100% cotton plaid and 0.6 metres rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

Size:  Large

Alternations / Pattern Modifications:  Shortened the sleeve length and sewed a 5/8" seam allowance at the shoulder and armhole seams.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, tailor's chalk (3 chalk colours were used to help identify the sides, front and back on the waistband), fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

It Has Pockets! The Assembly Line's Tulip Skirt / S:402

I've made a few Tulip dresses in the past but this is my first Tulip skirt which has some of the best design elements of the Tulip dress.  I am a fan of the front side pockets and the tulip shape of the skirt.  

It is a comfortable skirt and I do recommend this pattern.  I cut a size large knowing that it was going to be too big if I sewed the recommended seam allowance.  I thought if I sewed 5/8" seam allowances I would come closer to the fit I need.  In the end, I think I should have cut a size medium and could still have sewn a 5/8" seam allowance and achieve a good fit.  

The length was shortened two and a half inches and there is an one and a half inch hem.  The pockets were raised about an inch, three inches down from the waist cut edge.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with some stretch that I pulled from the stash.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is the latest Canadian 🍁 and tariff free make.  Most of the material and supplies were found in the stash.  Some of the threads were new for this project.  

Sewing is a reprieve from all the chaos in the world.  After a recent visit to Canada from a bipartisan group of U.S. senators and listening to Senator Kevin Cramer during the press conference just makes me want to boycott American products more than I already am, if that is even possible.  It's not just the convicted felon's rhetoric regarding tariffs and annexation, it's also those who support him that is beyond belief.  And as a Canadian and consumer there is no way I would contribute or support the American economy while this is happening.  No means NO!  What part of that do these republicans and MAGA supporters not understand about no?  Even after the King of Canada read the Throne Speech, the annexation rhetoric continued to echo from across the border.  Let's not get me started on the U.S. Ambassador to Canada's view of the 51st comments and boycott of American products.  Again, mind blowing.  Trust me when I say there are plenty of American products on the store shelves in the hardware, grocery store and fabric stores, no one is buying it while the economic war, tariffs and annexation / 51st state rhetoric continues to circulate.  But I digress.  

Let's count the ways that this lovely project did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

1. The Tulip skirt pattern is from The Assembly Line, a pattern company from Sweden.  I picked up this pattern after I stopped shopping American products which sadly meant saying good-bye to any future Vogue patterns.  I don't miss the American line of sewing patterns anymore, I actually found some beautiful patterns in queue from across the pond to keep me busy for the next while.  This Tulip skirt pattern is one of those patterns.  
2. The cotton sateen fabric was found in the stash and purchased before the convicted felon took office for the second time.  I found it in the discounted section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric store.  
3. The scissors used to cut the fabric are Merchant and Mills, a company from the United Kingdom.  They were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian company.  
4. This project was sewn on Janome machines, a Japanese company.  
5. The zipper is a recycled 22" zipper from a previous project that was cut to size.  
6. Some of the threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütenmann threads from Europe and were purchased at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric store.   There were some vintage spools of Ballet® brand threads found in Mom's thread box that were a close colour match and used in the serger.  
7. The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and purchased directly from them to avoid shopping on Etsy.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Basting tape:  0.60 metres

Zipper:  20 centimetres

Pattern:  The Assembly Line S:402

Sewing Label:  1--KATM "me made" label 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, lint brush, mini vacuum, tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

April in Review

Seriously, where did the month go?  April flew by in the blink of an eye.  I had big sewing plans for the month but back and shoulder pain put the brakes on any plans.  Although, I did manage a wee bit of sewing.  

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

L to R:  The Assembly Line's (TAL) puff sleeve shirt in a cotton stretch denim coloured fabric (T:204) and 100% cotton denim skirt (OOP Vogue 1247)

Honestly, I wasn't trying to be on trend nor was I trying to go for the Canadian tuxedo look with these two April makes.  One was what I hoped would be a wearable toile and the other was a scrap busting project.  These weren't even projects I hoped to work on this month.  

I was thrilled with how the puff sleeve shirt turned out, hot off the sewing machine, the fit was lovely.  I wore it briefly one day before it got dirty and ended up in the laundry.  Fast-forward, it no longer fits.  Even though I pretreated this fabric, it shrunk some more.  ~sigh~  It's currently too tight and too short and it will be going in the donation pile.  There is still some of this denim coloured stretch fabric left-over but I think this will remain as a toile / muslin fabric.  I am happy with the TAL pattern and I'm just thinking about moving onto sewing another version in a different fabric.  The fabric for the denim skirt held up much better.  No additional shrinkage to report. 

In the alterations and mending department, nothing to report other than the mending pile keeps growing.  Those sweatpants that I thought I would work on last month are still sitting on the mending pile.  There are also some previously made projects waiting for some alterations.  

Stash busting

This month, I stash busted three metres of fabric, one invisible zipper, one KATM label, one snap, forty centimetres of basting tape and half a metre of elastic.  There were no notions, fabric or patterns added to the stash.   

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Slow Sewing: The Assembly Line's Puff Sleeve Shirt / T:204

This is my wearable toile made in a chambray cotton with some stretch.  It took weeks to complete, not because it is complicated rather I was sewing in spurts while dealing with fatigue and back pain issues. As Bette Davis said, "this getting old thing is not for sissies," and it's interfering with my desire to sew.  But at last it's done.     

The plan was to try out this pattern and possibly make a version in a silk noir.  I'm not sold on moving onto cutting into the silk.  There is nothing wrong with the pattern, it's lovely and if my body was more model-like, the fit would be spot on.  Instead, I have scoliosis and a shoulder that sits higher than the other and when I have swelling, it is noticeable in this top.  But that will not stop me from wearing this one.  The lovely boat shaped neckline would look lovely on a person with perfectly aligned shoulders and back.  And I'm not sure how nor do I have the energy to alter the pattern to address this unique fitting issue.  Like I said, that doesn't mean that I won't wear it.  It is a very comfortable top.  

The pattern is perfectly drafted and the instructions are well written and illustrated.  No complaints about the pattern, you can still count me as a TAL fan.   

I cut a size medium and added to the seam allowance so I could work with 5/8" seam allowances.  I didn't follow the order of steps laid out in the instructions.  I didn't sew set-in sleeves instead I sewed the sleeves before sewing the sides and left the cuffs to the end.  The length of the sleeve was shortened three inches and the hem by 1 5/8" and has an inch hem.  Since this is a toile, I opted to go without interfacing.  

The cotton stretch fabric was found in the stash and pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  It handled the pre-treatment process well.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made 🍁 and tariff free make.  Yup, we're still doing this while the convicted felon down south and his cohort are creating chaos around the world, threatening other countries' sovereignty including Canada and crashing stock markets.  Let's just say, that sewing has been a much needed escape from all the chaos and hardship the convicted felon and his cohort is trying to unleash on the world.   

I am happy to report that everything used to make T:204 were non-American supplies and did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric is from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric retailer.  It has been in the stash for many moons.  The pattern is a recent addition from The Assembly Line, a Scandinavian company. .The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann threads.  The sewing machine and serger are Janome, a Japanese company.  The fabric scissors used were from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were sourced from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric and sewing supply company.  And the sewing label used is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Label:  1--KATM "me-made" label

Pattern:  Puff Shirt T:204 by The Assembly Line

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, pins, ruler, red marker, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tea, many breaks along the way and a radio.      

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

March in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Left to Right:  Cotton Trapeze Dress, Merchant and Mill's; wool plaid scarf, no pattern used.  

March was a slow month at the sewing machine.  The scarf was just a project that I made to use up the last bit of yardage from this skirt project.  I've surprised myself with how often I've reached for this scarf as the weather warmed up and it worked well with this coat.  The dress has a sixties vibe that I adore.  I took it out for a spin pairing it with a turtleneck sweater and it's so comfortable.  This may become my go-to summer dress.  Although, I do like my Eva dresses and they will likely not be replaced.  

And there was a wee bit of mending to a piece of furniture that needed some care.  These sweatpants have a tiny hole in the left back side that needs to be closed.  I plan to mend them today.  Otherwise things were quiet in the workspace. 

Stash busting

This month 2.4 metres of fabric and two spools of thread were used from the stash.  I did pick up 2 metres of fabric this month.  And I quickly regretted the purchase even though it was on sale.  

It's a man-made knit with a metre long sticky tape residue at the centre fold and right side of the fabric. It's not the kind of fabric I go for but it was a good deal and I thought that I could use it as a toile fabric.  I didn't realize it was damaged by the tape residue when I took it to the cutting table and the sales clerk did not point it out when she measured it.  If I had noticed this, I wouldn't have picked it up.  I should have known, the sale price was too good to be true.  Thankfully, after three tumbles in the wash and a heck of a lot Shout stain remover, the tape residue is no longer noticeable.  But I digress.  

When the addition of toile fabric is considered, I didn't do much stash busting this month.  And there were some new patterns added to the stash.  Three new patterns from The Assembly Line (The Tulip and Balloon skirts and the Puff sleeve top) and a new Style Arc pattern to test out with the above fabric.  I hope to get to those projects soon.  Hopefully, April will be a more productive month.  

Stand Strong, Elbows Up and Keep Sewing!

June in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations 

Top L to R:  navy cotton sateen pullover top (Closet Core's Ebony), cotton caftan (McCall's 8516), denim gardening apron (Tessuti apron).  Bottom L to R:  cotton shirt (OOP and vintage Simplicity 7840), cotton butterfly print shirt (Butterick 5891), cotton sateen pull-on skirt (The Assembly Line S:403).  

This month I've been working on summer-time appropriate garments but it feels like we have skipped summer and went straight into one fierce mosquito season.  Locally, the area has seen a lot of rain, perfect conditions for mosquito breeding and hanging out indoors at the sewing machine.  

Mending wise, broken stitches were repaired on pajama tops.  No alterations, although the gardening apron was made from a recycled skirt that no longer fit.  

Sewing Challenges

This month I participated in #sewcaftan2024.  I actually picked up Vogue 1886 a couple of years ago and then never made it after reading a pattern review that advised it wasn't suitable for petite sized women.  And then McCall's 8516 came on the scene and I thought since it has a shorter version that I might give it a try.  At first, I wasn't sure about it until I put it on and now I'm a caftan convert.  It's very comfortable.  Now I want to give the Vogue caftan a try.  

Stash-busting 

Stash busted this month:

• 12.1 metres fabric + recycled skirt
• 16 buttons
• 1 metre elastic
• 2 sewing labels
• 4.3 metres interfacing

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 58.5 metres fabric
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 8 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 metres elastic
• 14 thread spools
• 4.3 basting tape

Total additions this year:

• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 cover stitch machine.  

Happy Sewing!

Cotton Sateen Skirt: The Assembly Line S:403 / A-line Midi Skirt

This skirt was made to go with the kAtheRine Tilton top I finished yesterday.  It's the A-line midi skirt from The Assembly Line.  

This is a basic elastic waist pull-on skirt pattern with the most wonderful front pockets.  These are pockets that you can actually use, not dainty little pockets that won't even hold car keys.  Love that.  Also love the raised waistband and wide elastic.  It's one comfortable skirt.  

The pattern comes with variations for the skirt waistband and hem options.  I went with the basic A-line design, but now that I've tried the pattern, I wouldn't mind making the paper bag waistband with the belt loops one day.  

The only changes were to shorten the hem four inches before sewing a one inch hem, I omitted the center front and back seams by cutting on the fold and opted out of top-stitching.   I think this is a wonderful pattern for beginners.  

The fabric has been in the stash for well over a decade, actually it's left-over from this project.  And there is maybe enough for a pair of shorts?  But I digress.  It is a lovely medium weight cotton sateen, one of my favourite fabrics to sew.  It was previously pre-treated and ready for the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch, 3/8" seam allowances

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  The Assembly Line (TAL) S:403

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, thread clippers, cotton thread, polyester serger thread, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Janome serger, safety pins, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy sewing.  

Looking Back at 2023: Plans for 2024

 

Butterick and Simplicity pattern use made up about 50% of the list of 2023 sewing projects.  There was a time when Vogue patterns ruled in the sewing workspace.  Not last year and I predict it will continue into 2024.  I can't really say that new pattern releases from the Big Four pattern companies have been inspiring me to try something new.  Throw in inflation hitting everything sewing related and not, the decreased discount with the Fabricland membership on patterns and the out-of-control shipping costs from ordering online, it all adds up to making what I already have work.  Most projects were sewn with repeat-use patterns or second-hand store and vintage patterns.  

Tops and pants were the most sewn items in 2023.  I didn't have a need for dress up clothes.  Twenty twenty-three was a low-key year.  

A majority of the projects sewn in 2023 were natural fiber fabrics.  Although, there is some room for improvement in the journey to move away from petroleum based fibers.  

There was a drop in charity sewing projects in 2023 from previous years.  Most of the sewing projects for moi reflected a weight gain issue.  And then thanks to Covid, I lost weight by the end of the year.  Sewing for others remains the most rewarding sewing projects of the previous year.  

So, what does this mean for 2024?  Other than finishing some projects already cut out and ready to sew, only God knows!  We'll just have to wait and see.  

Happy Sewing!  

Top Five Lists: The 2023 Edition

The Top Five Sewing Bloopers

Plaid skirt with wide two-tired elastic waistband, circa September 2023.  Pattern:  The Assembly Line's Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt.  Sewing blooper:  not noticing the twisted elastic on the lower tier (oops!) until I put it on and then continued to wear it again before fixing it.  

Orange and beige dress.  Pattern:  Simplicity 9744, circa June 2023.  Sewing blooper:  The hem length was trimmed too short (oops!) and didn't feel comfortable to wear.  

Cotton pullover pleated top, circa May 2023.  Pattern:  Clochette by I AM Patterns.  Sewing blooper:  Cutting out the fabric before making a toile / muslin version first.  It is a beautiful pattern but on me the fit could be better if I just took the time to pay attention to the fit.  

Car coat, circa November 2023.  Pattern:  Out-of-print New Look 6074.  Sewing blooper:  I let this sit in an abandoned sewing project pile.  And thinking that I had all the pattern pieces cut I used the remainder of the fabric for hats and scarfs, only to realize that I did not cut out the front facing (oops!).  

Cotton knit pullover dress, circa August 2023.  Pattern:  Asymmetrical Dress by SD Patterns (an Etsy shop).  Sewing blooper:  Purchasing an on-sale PDF pattern while thinking that I could send it to a print shop.  It wasn't so, and I ended spending too much time printing and taping.    

The Top Five Sewing Room Tools 

Pinking shears.  There was some retro seam finishing done with pinking shears while the serger was in the repair shop.  

Safety pins.  There were twelve projects that needed elastic to be moved through casings.  And safety pins were more economical than investing in elastic threaders.  Twenty twenty-three was the year to make do and budget.  

A pair of table legs were a give-away item and came in handy for cutting out those large single layer pattern pieces from Butterick 6784.  

Spring hinge scissors.  I wouldn't have been able to do some sewing work while in a cast without this tool.  

Buttonhole cutter.  This little tool made the opening of the buttonhole on this coat possible.  

The Top Five Misses

These pants looked good hot off the sewing machine, but after several washes the fabric sort of lost its appeal.  Fabric can make or break a project.  I should have tested it first.  

Any tips for sewing waffle knit?  It was a sewing challenge that I did not master.  

Yeah sometimes those pieces of fabric that have been sitting folded up in the stash for decades have those fold lines that set in really good.  These pants were still worn for yard work.  

There is still some ponte knit lingering in the stash even though I vowed a few years ago to stick with natural fibre fabrics.  This didn't last long in my wardrobe.  It has zero warmth factor for a prairie winter.  

It just didn't work out.  

The Top Five Makes

Gifted pajama bottoms, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted pajama top, OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted boys' Super Mario shirt, OOP and vintage Butterick 2122.  Circa September 2023.  

Gifted boy's dinosaur shirt, McCall's 6972.  Circa July 2023.  

Gifted child's dress, OOP Vogue 9072.  Circa August 2023.  

Happy Sewing!