Some of My Favourite Resources

Share a free pattern, share some vintage sewing resources, share a tutorial or share some great sewing resource links!

Here are some of my favourite sewing resources and links:

Invisible zipper:

Eugenia hasn't blogged in over two years but she's still listed in my blog roll because of the information she has posted about invisible zippers. You can find this information here.

There is also Norma Bucko's article, Sew Invisible Zippers Like a Pro, which appeared in Threads August/September 2011. I have to admit there are several Threads magazines that are part of my go-to resources and this article is a real gem. Not only does Bucko state the benefits of using an "invisible zipper foot made specifically for your sewing machine" she also demonstrates that there is no need to fear if you can not find one at your local sewing machine dealer. Bucko has detailed instructions for installing an invisible zipper with a standard zipper foot. Don't have a hard copy of the September 2011 issue number 156? Don't fret, you can find it online if you are a Thread's insider.

Hand-picked zipper:

I've book-marked this site on my computer because this is a technique that I would like to try.  Neeno over at Sew Me Love has a wonderful tutorial (Good-bye Invisible Zippers & Hello Handpicking!) on hand-pick zippers and she has the most beautiful photographs too.

Gussets:

My favourite tutorial for gussets is found in a sewing pattern, Vogue 1043. The pattern comes with excellent instructions for this style feature.

And I really do consider my 1980 copy of Vogue Sewing as one of my most valuable sewing resources. Vogue Sewing has good instructions and information about gussets. Between my Vogue Sewing and Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing I can find the answers to most of my questions by the turn of a page. I can't recommend enough how valuable a good resource book has been to my sewing.

Underlining:

I love vintage sewing patterns because back-in-the-day dresses were underlined!  I find vintage patterns a rich resource for not-commonly-used sewing techniques.  Even if I don't use the pattern, I often find the instructions a rich source of information and inspiration.

Gertie did a segment on underlining skirts on the program It's Sew Easy. You can view it here.

Well, those are some of my favourite resources.

Happy Sew Grateful Week!

Gussets

Gussets are used in clothing to give ease of movement.  I guess the best way I can describe it would be as a piece of fabric that is used to help mold the garment to your body.

Today, I will be sewing a gusset in the Vintage Vogue Dress #1043.  It has short kimono sleeves where underarm gussets are typically found to give the sleeve a longer slimmer look that is closer to the body.

The gusset is cut on the bias allowing for the maximum amount of ease of movement and less strain on the fabric.


It is important to reinforce the right side of the fabric with two inch bias cut squares or you can use bias tape sew along the seam line.  The pattern calls for bias cut squares of fabric but since my fabric has some weight to it I thought I would use some 2" bias tape.

If your garment fabric frays easily I would also reinforce the wrong side of the garment with iron-on interfacing.

Baste the two inch squares at the underarm front and back placing over the stitching and clipping markers from the pattern piece.

Stitch the squares in place using a smaller stitch length along the stitching line.  Make sure that you make a clear pivot point and continue along the stitching line.

Clip to the pivot point.

Turn the bias pieces to the wrong side of the bodice front and back pieces and press.  






Continue with the bodice pieces before stitching in the gusset.  Stitch along the tuck markings for the bodice front, press down and baste in place.

Sew the back darts and press to the centre back.  Stitch the back bodice pieces together at the centre back.

Ease-stitch the shoulder seams before stitching the bodice front to bodice back at the shoulder seams.  Now you can attach the bodice pieces at the side seams leaving the lower left side open below the small dot for the zipper.

Now we can attach the gusset, matching the pattern markings (dots and notches).  Take care when stitching around pivot points.  Gusset stitched with a 5/8" seam allowance.


For more information about sewing gussets Vogue Sewing is a great reference.  The instructions included in this pattern were easy to follow too.  There is no need to worry, it is a pattern detail that was easy to achieve.

Vintage Vogue Dress

My next sewing project:

Vogue 1043, Vogue Vintage Model Original 1953 Design.

The bodice of the dress is adorable.  It has front stitched tucks, back darts, short kimono sleeves and underarm gussets.  The skirt portion of the dress is described as "mid-calf" but the pattern piece held up to my five-foot-one stature begs to differ.  I think there might be some alterations going on around the hemline.  The dress has a side zipper closure.


The fabric is an ivory with pink floral 100% cotton stretch sateen.  I found it in the sale section at Mitchell Fabrics and it
cost $5.00/ metre.  The price was not what drew me to the fabric but it didn't hurt.  I would have picked it even if it were not on sale, I think it is really cute with a vintage vibe going on.


Well, the fabric is pre-shunk, ironed, and the pattern pieces are cut so that means I should get to work.  I'll be laying out and cutting the fabric over the next few days in hopes to have it ready to sew for the weekend.