Donna Karan Flared Shorts: Vintage Vogue 2092

I made myself a pair of shorts!  

This is nostalgic sewing at the finest.  It's with fond remembrance that I gasped when I spotted vintage and out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 2092 last year on Etsy.  Back-in-the-day, way back, I had a smaller much smaller size of this pattern and I made these shorts and the wrap tops.  It was a much-loved pattern and then life happened and my size magically grew.  Okay, there might have been some cookies doing it's damage magic to my waistline along that journey but I digress...   

I'm not someone who often wears shorts.  To be completely honest, I rarely wear shorts.  But this Donna Karan design is different and with the hot and humid weather we've been having lately these are a welcome addition to the wardrobe.  These shorts are flared, and it feels like I'm wearing a hybrid skirt / shorts combination.  They have more than ample ease in the thigh area.  And pockets!  What's not to love?  

There is an invisible zipper at the center back and the waistband is fastened with a pants hook & eye notion.  

The fabric is leftover piece from this project.  It is a beautiful wine coloured cotton knit that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  There was 1.6 metres left and with some creative pattern placement, I was able to add three inches to the length.  These shorts now sit just below my knee hiding my scars.  The pattern is a size 14 so I added a little more (1/2") ease to the side seams.  To the waistband, I added two inches at each end for a total of four inches extra length.  The one change that I would like to make when I revisit this pattern is to shorten the crotch length.  Otherwise, I'm thrilled with how this project turned out.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 length straight stitch for sewing the zipper, Janome knit stitch for the remainder of the seams.  

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.6 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  4 metres

Zipper:  20 cm invisible zipper

Hook & Eye:  1

Pattern:  Vintage OOP Vogue 2092

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, regular presser foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax and an audio book playing in the background.  

Stay Safe, Stay Cool and Keep Sewing!

Book Review

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My Journey:  Donna Karan

Author(s):  Donna Karan with Kathleen Boyes

ISBN:  978-1-101-88349-5

Publisher:  Ballantine Books, 2015

Canadian price:  $39.00 (Hardcopy)

My Journey has been on my want-to-read list for quite some time. But since it's release several years ago I just haven't made the time to sit down and read it. It just happened to be one of the books that the local library was selling from their collection at a deep discount. It seemed like my last chance to finally read it. The crisp pages and binding that appeared to have never been cracked open made me wonder if it had ever been signed out. It sparked a feeling of sadness bringing me back to when I learned that Vogue Patterns would no longer be carrying Donna Karan and DKNY patterns.

My desire to read this book is attributed to the fact that I've been a huge fan of Donna Karan's designs and have, over the years, sewn many of her Vogue designer patterns.

Out-of-print Vogue 2092, circa 1988. 

This was one of the first Donna Karan patterns that entered my collection.

I wanted so much to enjoy this book as much as I have enjoyed sewing her designs over the years.

OOP Vogue 1262, circa 2011.  Another favourite Donna Karan design.

The book didn't capture the joy that the designs brought to my sewing table. Sure, there were parts that I found interesting and things I learned about Karan's career that I was previously unaware of. I enjoyed reading about Karan's time at Anne Klein in the nineteen seventies and the menswear line and dressing a president. And the concept of seven easy pieces! But there was an underlining sadness that never seemed to escape from it's pages.  

What I didn't enjoy is how the book begins with the dark chapter Born into Fashion. Honestly, if I weren't a fan of her creative work, the start of this book would have been enough of a turn-off to abandon what laid ahead in the pages that follow. Despite the constant celebrity name-dropping peppered throughout the pages (I wasn't impressed), it is a story about a resilient woman who has overcome a great deal in her life. In that, it is a wonderful book. As far as being a reader who enjoyed sewing her designs, it didn't deliver any new inspiration or desire to revisit some of those old Donna Karan patterns. Maybe one day.

OOP Vogue 1175, still to be made one day.

Happy Sewing!  

 

Donna Karan & DKNY patterns

Did you read Vogue's announcement regarding Donna Karan and DKNY patterns? 

As of July 14, 2016, we will no longer sell Donna Karan and DKNY patterns (current & out-of-print styles). 

I was quite sad to read this announcement since I  have been a fan of her designs for many years. I guess, I really shouldn't be surprised considering that Karan's creative design contributions have diminished over the years. I just never wanted to consider that this time would come. And yet, it has come, a time to reminisce on some of my favourite Donna Karan and DKNY designs carried by Vogue patterns that have made it into my collection over the years .  

My favourite Donna Karan make would have to be Vogue 1263. I like this pattern so much, I've made two versions of this jacket. The details on this shawl collar jacket are divine.  

And there are more Donna Karan and DKNY patterns in my collection.  

This jumper and dress pattern, OOP Vogue 2586, has been in my collection for years, circa 1990. I haven't even opened it even though I still adore this design.  

Vogue 1465 is the most recent Donna Karan design to become part of my collect. This pattern purchase was influenced by Tany's gorgeous version of this top and jacket.  

OOP Vogue 2648, circa 1991, is another pattern that I've been meaning to make for quite some time. I have a light-weight linen that would work for this loose-fitting shirt.  

OOP Vogue 2453, circa 2000, is another pattern that I have yet to sew. So many patterns, so little time.   

Now this pattern, OOP Vogue 2092, I have made up a few times when I was the size on the envelope.  This is my eldest Donna Karan design, circa 1988. It was the first Donna Karan design that I made and since then I was hooked.    

DKNY OOP Vogue 2091 is on my want to make list since I found it in the current size, circa 2001.  

I have two copies of Vogue 1175, circa 2010, in my collection. I picked up the second copy when I saw Bunny's version sewn and worn as a jumper. l loved the length and the change she made to the hem. Another one on my want to make list.  

I was thrilled to add this Donna Karan design for the cape-like top, Vogue 1417, after seeing this made up by Catherine Daze.

I added this one to the collection for the top and skirt--love that the skirt is high waisted and after seeing this version of the top I was sold.  

This dress pattern, Vogue 1281, is one of those designs that I love but wonder what occasion this could possibly fit into my prairie lifestyle? Maybe one day, I'll figure it out. It was Carolyn's version make out of recycled tee-shirts that sold me on the possibility.  

And of course, Vogue 1038, I've been talking about making this one up for some time now. Soon. I have the fabric pre-washed, pressed, and waiting to be cut out. 

How about you, do you have a favourite Donna Karan or DKNY design that you've made?  

Happy Sewing!  

Do You Follow Trends?

I wouldn't define myself as a trendy person. By the time I get around to sewing the "latest trend" it is typically gone. I watch for the latest must have fashion trends just for entertainment, rarely because I'm dying to jump in. But here is a "must-have fashion trend for 2016" that I must admit I do like. The off-the-shoulder look.  

Dress by H&M, Top by Zara.
{Source}

Of course, this look has no place in my everyday life without a deluxe roll of double sided tape. Working in a school environment is a very physical job, this is not the sort of look I could pull off at work life. If I were a woman of leisure or off to some beach side restaurant to have lunch, it might work.

bcgb {Source}

I was surprised that this look is being shown as a to-watch-trend but I couldn't find too much evidence of it in the new spring releases from McCall's, Butterick, and Vogue.

I was, however, able to find some off-the-shoulder looks in the current offerings from previous releases. With the exception of Gertie's new one-shoulder dress.  Nothing as modern edgy and chic as the black RTW top from Zara shown above. The pattern offerings from the major four pattern companies seem to be mostly made up of reincarnated seventies bohemian chic. 

Lovely if you can pull off the look but I'm a middle aged (ouch, that hurt) lady with a bit of a mid-section (need to hit the gym) who fantasizes of being dressed as stylishly as the folks on Advanced Style. Except, I'm eating Nicoise Salad at some beach-side restaurant somewhere in Europe. I'm not asking for much, am I? 

Should I side-step this trend as Sandra Halliday warns?  

Call me foolish or call me a risk-taker, but I think I found a pattern in my stash that might work despite Halliday's dire warnings. Vogue 1038 is a dramatic off-the-shoulder tunic that looks stunning with capris.  I know this to be true because a fabulous version has been modelled by Tia Dia over at Mezzo Couture. Forget about trying to recreate that Zara top, I'll be sewing this Donna Karan design (and will make my own Nicoise Salad). 

How about you, will you be sewing the off-the-shoulder look this season?  

Happy Sewing!  

Nostalgic Sewing

Stash-busting 2016:  Revisiting an Old Fav and Finally Blogging About It

I made a few skirts with this pattern back-in-the-day when I was much younger and thinner. Well, when I found this pattern in my current size over on Etsy, I couldn't resist the pull towards some nostalgic sewing. That was almost three years ago, goodness how time flies.

OOP Vogue 1378 is a Donna Karan design for a body blouse and skirts, circa 1994. I have in the past made both skirts. Version B was by far my favourite of the two and the one that I wanted to revisit with this sewing project.  

I cut out all the pattern pieces needed to make a direct copy of the skirt as shown above but as you can see it turned out quite different from the photograph on the pattern envelope.

I cut the largest size on the pattern remembering that it was quite fitted when I first made it and my hips are thankful that I did. But I had to do something about the excess of fabric at the waistline and above. I could have cut a size 12 at the waist and graded up towards a size 16 at the hips. So, after sewing up the sides I had a few trips back to the sewing machine taking the side seams in and reaching for my seam ripper to remove the old stitching lines.

Then I basted and chopped off the shaping of the raised waistline and did a rolled hem instead of bothering with the suspenders. I really do like the look of the suspenders but with how my wrists has been feeling I wasn't all that keen on turning over long tubes of fabric.  

This fabric has been in my part of my stash for a very long time, at least a decade if I were to guess. I found it at Mitchell Fabrics in the basement vintage section. I have no idea what the fibre content of this fabric is but I do know that it handled machine washing and drying quite well. It also wrinkles and presses well on a high temperature setting. It is a light-weight plaid and don't let the colours fool you, it would work best as a spring / summer garment. As I was sewing the skirt up and hand stitching the slits and hem, I came to realize that this would make a really nice plaid shirt. And I do have enough of this fabric in the stash to make one. Don't worry, I don't plan on wearing plaid on plaid. That's so 1994!  

The verdict on this one, nostalgic sewing is fun but sometimes you just need to change it up a bit. I do like how it turned out and I think it would be a nice addition to my weekend wardrobe. But I don't think that I'll be sewing up another one anytime soon. Although, it was a nice trip down memory lane.


The Stats:

Fabric:     1.2 metres $7.19 ($5.99 / metre + taxes)

Zipper:     20 cm invisible zipper $1.58 ($2.80 - 50% off + taxes)

Basting Tape:     40 cm $0.00, birthday gift.

Thread:    I'm going to average out about $4.00 for thread used for the sewing machine, serger and hand-stitching.  I managed to finish off a spool of thread during this project.

Pattern:     Vogue 1378 $24.65

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, scissors, pins, hand needle, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, about four hours, two cups of coffee, and one cookie.

Happy Sewing!

It Feels Like Christmas!

I found a few out-of-print patterns that I'm quite excited about. And I gave myself an early Christmas present.  

I'm really excited about Vogue 2453. It is a Donna Karan dress pattern that is actually part of my pattern stash. Sadly my copy is in a size that I am currently not so I quite excited that this is on its way.  

I picked up Vogue 2757 because I think the neckline detail on this top is just divine.

And this dress pattern, Vogue 7960, is the most conservative of the bunch. It will be perfect for work. I'm starting to get excited about Christmas! And with a two week lay-off around Christmas I might even find the time to sew one or two of these up.  

Happy Sewing!

Pattern Give-away: Vogue 2215

This week's pattern give-away is for a pattern by one of my favourite Vogue designers, Donna Karan. It is another pattern that is in a size range that I no longer fit, sizes 8, 10 and 12.  

This unopened and factory folded pattern is for a Misses' dress, top and overdress.

Close-fitting, tapered dress, mid-knee, has shoulder straps, side zipper and back slit.  Fitted, A-line overdress, mid-knee or top has slightly raised neckline and back button/loop closing.  

Here's the deal:  

• Promise to give it a good home, where you will use it, share it and make something fabulous with it.  
• Promise not to sell it.  
• Leave a message below before I wake up on Wednesday morning. Don't worry, I plan to sleep in.  When I wake up I will draw the winner using random number generator.  
• This give-away is open internationally.  

Good luck and happy sewing!  

Creamy, Dreamy Jacket

Stash busting 2014:  Vogue 1263 Jacket

Fabric:      2.9 metres

Thread:    1 spool

Button:     1 large decorative button (maybe)

I forgot how many darts are involved in the creation of Vogue 1263! There are a total of sixteen darts in the making of this jacket, four in the back shawl collar plus another four in the facing.  And there are those beautiful six darts that start from the back hemline and radiate upwards. The two double pointed dart in the front near the pocket. Yes, all those darts give this jacket the incredible shape. You're going to have to take my word for it with these photographs that are not doing the details justice.

There are also flat felled and french seams that give this jacket a beautiful finish. I won't talk much about the flat-felled seams as I did write about them when I made the first version of this jacket. The french seam finish on the pockets is a nice finish. I didn't do these on the first version but I'm glad I took the time and did them here. What a difference!

The fabric is a 2014 addition to my stash. I fell for it when I first laid eyes on it two years ago at Fabricland but waited until it was a bit more affordable. It took awhile until it reached my affordable range and luckily the last bit on the bolt was enough to make the jacket. That's what you can call cutting it close (sorry for the pun). I actually cut this out in February shortly after I picked it up but it took some time to get around to sewing this up. It feels soft, it is not wool but has the thickness of wool, but also like a soft felt, the label said there is a high amount of polyester. My fingers are crossed that this fabric won't pill because right now it looks great. I just hope it wears well over time.  

Pinned front as I debate if I should put the button on, hmmm?  

The button that I have in mind has been in my stash a decade, at least. I picked it up at Courage My Love in Toronto. I plan to go with the majority vote and used the rectangular shaped button if I go with a button after all.

You see, I just have one problem when it comes to sewing the button and buttonhole. My Janome sewing machine has this wonderful automatic buttonhole maker. The problem is that the button I want to use is too big for this feature on my sewing machine. Mama R has a Singer sewing machine that can make any size of buttonholes but she is not too keen on letting me use her machine. I don't think she has completely forgiven me over that Singer threadle incident.

Yeah, after seeing this picture and looking this wide,
maybe I should keep it open and skip the button? 

I could use this opportunity to learn a new-to-me technique and sew a button hole by hand. Or I can take the easy way out and see if Stitch It! would sew a buttonhole for me.

For now, I'm considering this project done until I decided how to tackle the buttonhole. Or maybe I'll leave it alone and go without. Until then...

Happy Sewing!


  

Vogue 1263: Marking and Pockets.

Vogue 1263 has to be one of my favourite patterns in my collection. I made this jacket in a boiled wool a couple of years ago. And I've dreamed about making an off-white version ever since I laid my eyes on this fabric. I had to wait quite some time for it to go on sale.

I do remember that I had some issues with the pockets when I made the first jacket. They look fine from the outside, you can't notice any issues unless you look very closely at the inside of the jacket.

Yea, it is not pretty. In my defence, I believe I was on tylenol 3 at the time. But I digress...

On the first jacket I cut the pocket interfacing out of muslin. This time I cut the pocket interfacing out of fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing is what is recommended in the pattern instructions. The fusible interfacing worked beautifully. I don't know why I didn't go with it the first time.

I noticed over at Pattern Review that most people left the pockets off but I love the pockets. Those who did the pockets, myself included on the first one, mentioned that they also strayed from the pattern instructions. Here is my take on the pockets, follow the instructions.

Take the time to transfer all the markings carefully. It will pay off in the end. I found it easier to keep everything aligned by basting in place after I matched up the markings.

You'll need to match up the markings with right sides together. Stitch the pocket facing to the jacket front/back along the stitching lines, cut and clip.

Flip the facing to the wrong side, top-stitch and turn over again.

Now you can pin the pocket to the pocket facing, stitch a 3/8" seam allowance, trim...

... flip and press.

Stitch again, finishing off with a french seam.

Now, these pockets are pretty, if I do say so myself. I think it is worth the work and recommend that if you want to sew up Vogue 1263, don't skip the pockets. They really are a lovely feature of this jacket.

Happy Sewing!