Stash busting: Elastic back skirt / OOP Vogue 1247 and Vintage Vogue 9918

Since the first one turned out, I cut three more versions.  Here is the first of the lastest versions I am currently working on.  I want to replace my Vogue 1247 (Rachel Comey) skirts with elastic waist versions so I can wear them with the back brace.  The three versions that I previously had in my wardrobe have found a new home.  

There is a wee bit more ease with the versions I am currently working on, a half inch extra ease.  The hem length was extended and an inch and a quarter blind hem was sewn.  Otherwise, it's similar to the first version.  I really hope this is not a cotton and polyester blend because if there is pilling, it will be sad.

The fabric was labeled as a black cotton twill but after cutting the fabric and observing the fraying, I'm starting to suspect a misleading label hiding another fibre in the mix.  I will have to do a burn test to see if my suspicion is correct.  It doesn't feel or sew like other cotton fabrics I have used in the past.  I really hope and pray this is not a cotton / polyester blend which I have sewn in the past and dealt with pilling after a few wears.  I will be sad if that happens with this one since I really like the fit of this skirt.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the required supplies were pulled from the stash.  The fabric and elastic came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue patterns are  made in the U.S.A. items but they did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff and blackmail economy.  Vogue 1247, circa 2011, has been in the stash for years.  Vogue 9918 is a vintage pattern from the 1980s that I picked up from an American reseller in 2023, prior to the convicted felon's 2.0 economic threats against Canada and the resulting boycott.  The cotton Gütermann threads used in the sewing machine was made in Greece and purchased from Fabricland.  I am finding that Fabricland's selection of polyester Gütermann threads made in the USA is expanding and their selection of European made cotton threads is dwindling.  And I've even noticed that some of their stock is void of the country of origin on the label.  Hmmm?  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label was recycled from a previous project.  It originally came from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  0.5 metres

Label:  1--recycled "Me Made" KATM label

Patterns:  OOP Vogue 1247 (circa 2011) and vintage Vogue 9918 (circa 1980s).

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, thread clippers, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, seam ripper and safety pin.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

The United States Declared an Economic War on Canada: How That Will Have an Impact at the Sewing Table

I pulled out my maple leaf top from storage.  It just seems appropriate to put it on today.  Mind you, I will be wearing a red merino wool crew top to keep me warm.  

The convicted felon and president of the United States signed an executive order yesterday ordering 25% tariffs on Canada starting on Tuesday to be applied on all goods not shipped prior to February 1, 2025.  This convicted felon has been threatening tariffs on many nations around the world since taking office.  Yesterday, he started his economic war against Canada.  And I have to agree with actonfoodforest's instagram post, "is it worth stimulating Trump's economy?"  Of course not.  Canadians will stand up to this convicted felon.  

Oh, Vogue Patterns, how I am going to miss you.  Vogue patterns are made in the U.S.A. and let's be clear Trump economics will make things stupidly expensive.  A new Vogue design is currently priced at $42.00 Cdn. and then throw on a 25% tariff.  That just means, bye, bye Vogue and Simplicity and McCall's and Butterick and Burda patterns.  

Sure, there are some Vogue and Butterick patterns that were purchased before the felon took office that I hope to sew this year.  Vogue 2060, the Diane Von Furstenberg reissued wrap dress pattern, is on the list of want-to-sew projects and is already in the stash.  We're entering tough economic times and tough decisions have to be made and not purchasing anymore made in the United States products is one of those tough decisions.  I will be sewing with patterns already in the stash.  But no more new patterns from  U.S. pattern companies.  Thankfully, Canada has many Canadian pattern companies to support if the need for a new pattern should arise.  Say hello to Closet Core Patterns, Jalie patterns, and Helen's Closet are a few that come to mind.  

Coats and Clark is an American company and are no-purchase items during the economic war against Canada.  Thankfully, Gütermann threads are from Europe, so I'm covered in the thread department.  My fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an English company.  Other fabric scissors are from Asian countries such as Taiwan.  My sewing machines are Janome, a Japanese company.  And there is a fabric stash to keep me going along with other non-American resources.  

Stay Strong and Keep Sewing.  

Top Five Lists: The 2023 Edition

The Top Five Sewing Bloopers

Plaid skirt with wide two-tired elastic waistband, circa September 2023.  Pattern:  The Assembly Line's Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt.  Sewing blooper:  not noticing the twisted elastic on the lower tier (oops!) until I put it on and then continued to wear it again before fixing it.  

Orange and beige dress.  Pattern:  Simplicity 9744, circa June 2023.  Sewing blooper:  The hem length was trimmed too short (oops!) and didn't feel comfortable to wear.  

Cotton pullover pleated top, circa May 2023.  Pattern:  Clochette by I AM Patterns.  Sewing blooper:  Cutting out the fabric before making a toile / muslin version first.  It is a beautiful pattern but on me the fit could be better if I just took the time to pay attention to the fit.  

Car coat, circa November 2023.  Pattern:  Out-of-print New Look 6074.  Sewing blooper:  I let this sit in an abandoned sewing project pile.  And thinking that I had all the pattern pieces cut I used the remainder of the fabric for hats and scarfs, only to realize that I did not cut out the front facing (oops!).  

Cotton knit pullover dress, circa August 2023.  Pattern:  Asymmetrical Dress by SD Patterns (an Etsy shop).  Sewing blooper:  Purchasing an on-sale PDF pattern while thinking that I could send it to a print shop.  It wasn't so, and I ended spending too much time printing and taping.    

The Top Five Sewing Room Tools 

Pinking shears.  There was some retro seam finishing done with pinking shears while the serger was in the repair shop.  

Safety pins.  There were twelve projects that needed elastic to be moved through casings.  And safety pins were more economical than investing in elastic threaders.  Twenty twenty-three was the year to make do and budget.  

A pair of table legs were a give-away item and came in handy for cutting out those large single layer pattern pieces from Butterick 6784.  

Spring hinge scissors.  I wouldn't have been able to do some sewing work while in a cast without this tool.  

Buttonhole cutter.  This little tool made the opening of the buttonhole on this coat possible.  

The Top Five Misses

These pants looked good hot off the sewing machine, but after several washes the fabric sort of lost its appeal.  Fabric can make or break a project.  I should have tested it first.  

Any tips for sewing waffle knit?  It was a sewing challenge that I did not master.  

Yeah sometimes those pieces of fabric that have been sitting folded up in the stash for decades have those fold lines that set in really good.  These pants were still worn for yard work.  

There is still some ponte knit lingering in the stash even though I vowed a few years ago to stick with natural fibre fabrics.  This didn't last long in my wardrobe.  It has zero warmth factor for a prairie winter.  

It just didn't work out.  

The Top Five Makes

Gifted pajama bottoms, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted pajama top, OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted boys' Super Mario shirt, OOP and vintage Butterick 2122.  Circa September 2023.  

Gifted boy's dinosaur shirt, McCall's 6972.  Circa July 2023.  

Gifted child's dress, OOP Vogue 9072.  Circa August 2023.  

Happy Sewing!  

Game Changer at the Cutting Table

Back in 2013, to my horror, I found my once cherished tailor shears in the garage covered in rust.  They were missing for quite some time.  To this day, no one has confessed to removing them from my workspace.  

I replaced those tailor shears a while ago with a pair of red Merchant and Mill's tailor shears.  I'm really happy with these tailor shears and highly recommend them if you're looking for a quality pair.  Sadly, I'm unable to use them while my dominate hand is in a cast.  So I've been on the search for something, anything that will allow for fabric cutting at this time.  

I ruled out rotary blade cutters and electric scissors based on cost.  Instead, I found something that works and I was able to use my casted hand.  

Hello, Ultra Sharp Spring Tension Scissors!  I do not have to move my thumb, my pinky, ring, middle and index fingers do all the work.  This little tool is a game changer.  I managed to cut a t-shirt pattern out of waffle knit fabric.  Although it did take me a couple of days broken up with moments icing my fingers.  But they worked and I couldn't be more thrilled!  These spring tension scissors are certainly a keeper, even when the cast is removed.  Hopefully soon.  

Have you tried a pair?  What did you think about them?  Or to you have another preferred cutting tool?  

Happy Sewing!