Wool Pants: Butterick 6717

This pair of pull-on wool pants, Butterick 6717, has pockets!  

These are the first pair I've made with this pattern that do have pockets.  There are eight pairs of pocket-less pants previously made.  I left them off the previously made pairs.  I don't know why.  Maybe it's because that pocket pattern piece looked small but they don't feel that way when I wear these pants.  

Butterick 6717 is a keeper.  I do have a hard copy of this pattern but it's no longer available for sale on the Simplicity website.  It is, however, available in PDF format here.  I made these in a size large (16-18) with no changes to the pattern other than shortening the leg length one and a half inches.  The pants have a one and a half inch blind hem.  They were easy to sew and the pants are comfortable.  

The fabric is a charcoal coloured British wool fabric that has been hiding in the stash for many years.  It was pre-treated prior to hitting the cutting table.  I do have enough fabric to sew another pair of pants.

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free project.  Everything used to make these pants were found in the stash.  The fabric came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The Butterick pattern, circa 2019, was made in the U.S.A. prior to the start of the convicted felon's global tariff war and did not contribute his economy.  It was purchased as a discounted pattern from Fabricland.  The scissors used to cut this project are Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing machine needle was replaced with a Schmetz needle, a German company and was purchased at Fabricland.  The threads used were Gütermann Threads from Germany.  The label used is from KATM, and Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.70 metres (fusible)

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6717, circa 2019 (printed copy now out-of-print)

Label:  1--"2025" KATM 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, wrist pin cushion, measuring tapes, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, thread clippers, threads, Jean-a-ma-jig, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, seam ripper, ironing board, iron and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Style Adaptation for Greater Pocket Access: Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

UPDATE:  This note is for future reference in case this project makes it to the cutting table.  the placement of the cargo pocket should be higher.  The center of the pocket sits where the knee bends.  an adjustment will be necessary.  Otherwise, the idea of a front upper leg cargo pocket is a win.  

Kwik Sew 3663 has been elevated to tested and trusted (TNT) status as this is the fifth time this pattern hit the cutting table.  I am still smitten with the technique for sewing the side pockets and they are much appreciated by the wearer of the previous pairs.  So why am I messing with this design?  Well, pockets are everything.  

And more important, easy access to a pocket.  These pants are gifted to someone who spends most of their day sitting.  Mobility issues have been forefront in my gift and charity sewing and consideration of style adaptations.  

Threads magazine wrote a wonderful article on adaptive clothing and suggests moving cargo pockets to the front upper thigh.  Fingers are crossed that these work as I did cut into a much treasured piece of denim.  The cargo pocket pattern was borrowed from McCall's 6973 and I decided to leave the flap off this design since I was seeking greater pocket access.  

The fabric is a beautiful 100% cotton denim from Emma One Sock that I was thinking about turning into a pair of jeans for moi.  Plans change and it is hard to deny the fabric was much better suited for this project.  The denim is not stiff, it's actually a very nice weight to handle the elastic wasistband.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a wash and a dryer tumble before hitting the ironing board for a good stream pressing.   

Note:  While trying to find a link to this pattern, I discovered that Kwik Sew patterns are being discontinued.  This pattern, Kwik Sew 3663, is still available on various online seller sites.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 -- 2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Patterns:  Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, measuring tape, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, serger, threads, sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, regular presser foot, iron, ironing board, seam ripper and safety pins.  

Stay safe and keep sewing!

Another Shirdress & Matching Face Mask: Vintage Vogue 1606

It didn't take long for vintage, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1606 to hit the cutting table again. To be honest, I thought I might be making the pullover dress that reminds me of the new Vogue 1691 before another shirtdress. But here I am showing my latest shirtdress. 

 

Goodness, this pattern is beautiful. The only thing it was missing were pockets and on this version I put in-seam pockets instead of patch pockets like on the first version. Otherwise, it was basically the same changes that were seen on the first: switched the sleeve placket and cuff details, lengthened the dress this time by three inches and shortened the sleeve length a wee bit more. I think I can still shorten it a bit more.  

And the matching face mask is created with the Dhurata Davies pattern, left over fabric for the lining as well and it's interlined with cotton knit. I really like the fit of this pattern. The only adjustment that I make to the pattern is how the casing is sewn.  

I did stray away from Vogue 1606 pattern instructions. And I got myself in a tangle when it came to inserting the sleeves. I should have starting with sewing the sleeve and sides but instead I sewed the sides and godets first. It was actually kind of comical how I had to maneuver and sew the sleeves.  Thankfully, it all worked out. I just mention it because Betty Jackson and Vogue patterns have a well-thought out plan laid out in the instruction sheets when it comes to piecing this project together. Stick with their plan, it's a good one.   

The fabric is a beautiful medium-weight, printed, 100% cotton that I scored at Mitchell Fabrics back-in-the-day when they were open. I do miss that store and the selection of fabrics they used to bring in. But I digress... This narrow width cotton that was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before a steam pressing. 

I really like the print with "France, Fashion Wear, 100% Cotton, and Handmade Clothes" printed on the fabric. It's perfect! Although olive green with the navy blue text is not my go-to colours it was the print that had me sold on this one.  

The buttons were what I could scavenge out of the button collection. The two-hole 12 mm brown buttons were used in the front. There are four-hole perfectly matched green buttons used for the cuffs. I was only able to find six of these ones. I don't mind that there are two different buttons found on the shirtdress as I don't think anyone will really notice. I'm just thrilled that I was able to recycle the buttons.  

The Stats

Fabric:  3.7 metres (115 cm width)

Buttons:  13 - 12 mm 

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1606 and Dhurata Davies Face Mask pattern (free downloadable)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, pin cushions, clapper, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, walking foot, buttonhole foot, tweezers, screwdrivers, serger sewing machine needle, seam ripper, buttonhole cutter, wooden chopping block hammer, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Shirtdress: Vogues 1503, 8934 and McCall's 7546

The first project to be completed this year is a revisit of two shirt patterns, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7546, Vogue 1503 and a coat pattern, Vogue 8934, used to create a shirtdress.

The Patterns:  

Vogue 1503 was previously made as it was designed and it is the sleeve with the placket that has since become a go-to pattern piece.

I switched these along with the cuff pattern pieces to be used with the shirt front, back, facing and collar pieces from McCall's 7546.  McCall's 7546 has never been used as a shirt pattern as designed but it is the forth time that I've extended view D to create a shirtdress. One day I do plan on making the shirt. I threw in the pocket pattern piece from OOP Vogue 8934 for some inseam pockets. The only change from the last version was that the hemline is an inch shorter due to the yardage available. Even though I presently have two versions of this shirtdress in my closet, this is a welcome addition. It's comfortable and I know I'll wear it often.

The Materials:  

The fabric is a fabulous stretch denim from the stash (previously from Mitchell Fabrics). I originally picked up 2.5 metres years ago with the intention of using it for OOP McCall's 7352 but when the toile didn't work out for the jumper I abandoned that plan.  It wasn't until I thought it might work for The Assembly Line's Tulip dress that I searched for it only to realize after pre-treating the fabric that I didn't have quite enough yardage to make it work. But there was enough for this project and that is how another shirtdress came to be.

The denim was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine, followed by the dryer.  There was no need for pressing before cutting the fabric.  And for this reason, it will likely become my favourite. All of the notions used for this project came from the stash including the buttons.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.5 metres stretch denim

Interfacing:  1.5 metres fusible

Buttons:  11 - 12 mm (1/2") 

Patterns:  McCall's 7546, Vogue 1503 and Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, measuring tape, rulers, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, pins, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, scissors, thread clippers, cotton thread for the sewing machine, serger, polyester threads for the serger, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, hand sewing needle, thimble, wrist brace, tailor's wax and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

New Pants: Vogue 1642

Vogue 1642 caught my eye because of that comfy looking top with pockets. But then as I took a closer look I became enthralled with the pants pattern as well. It has front darts, front waistband and a back elasticized waist. Oh, and did I mention it has pockets?  And the best part of the pattern is where the waistband sits - at the actual waistline!

Vogue 1642 is a perfectly comfortable looking pair of pants. And I could use a pair of comfortable pants. Even though I have some wool suiting fabric that would be perfect, I didn't want to cut into it before I tested the pattern. I chose a striped linen that I found in the home decor department a couple of years ago. I picked up this fabric thinking to make a pair of drawstring pants but never did. I thought this would be a good fabric to test out the pattern and hopefully have a wearable muslin. And it worked out wonderfully.  

I requested the size combination Y (XS to Med), instead was given the larger size by the salesperson at Fabricland. This mistake has happened in the past. I should have learned not to trust that I will be given what I ask for but I didn't check the pattern size before I left to store. Not realizing I had a different size combination than requested and until I arrived home and removed the contents from the envelope. This is God at work because once I looked at the finished measurements on the pattern pieces, I realized that I should be sewing a large for the pants, medium for the top. Thank you God for that intervention! Sometimes I forget I'm shaped like a pear.  

There were some changes, I raised the crotch, cut the inseam as an extra-large, side seams as a large, shortened the hem by four inches and the left leg by an additional five-eighths of an inch. I opted for cutting the pockets in the linen instead of one side with lining fabric. Next time around I will raise the crotch a little more. This is certainly a wearable muslin and I'm sure it will be a favourite for the remainder of the summer. I think I'm ready to cut that wool suiting fabric now.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  

Elastic:  1 metre of 1/2 inch 

Pattern:  Vogue 1642

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, iron, ironing board, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, serger, threads, walking foot, blind hem foot, safety pins, and a chai tea latte.  

Happy Sewing!

The Questionable, Political, Cultural and Desirable Pocket

Pockets have evolved throughout history but what does remain is its practical and desirable feature to a garment.

Pockets are key. Or are they?

I'm in favour of garments with pockets, they are more than a portable storage device. Pockets in the age of ready-to-wear fast fashion is a luxury item. And they seem to have a history of luxury associated with them.  

Paco Peralta's divinely designed skirt pockets. 

 Vogue 1567  

Pockets as we know them today haven't always been part of an article of clothing. During Medieval times "pockets" were more like external bags tied around one's waist or suspended from one's belt. A style worn regardless of one's gender.  

A historical recreation of a Medieval "pocket"

{Source}

Pockets can also have negative associations with them, especially if they carry one's hands. In Western culture when one's hands are in their pocket it can be perceived as awkwardness or disrespect depending on the cultural situation.  

Often pockets are used to hold our money or wallets instead of our hands. Phrases relating to pockets have come out of these:  Out of pocket refers to a financial loss. Put one's hand in one's pocket refers to an act of generosity. Empty pocket refers to being broke.

To pocket something refers to conceal or hid something. 

Much as been written about the white pant suit Hilary Clinton wore at the Democratic National Convention and what one commentary saw as a pocket-less suit jacket illustrated that she had nothing to hid.    

{Source}

I see this analysis as a lack of knowledge on pocket construction rather than a commentary on whether or not Clinton was trying to send out a message to voters. What I do see is a beautifully tailored welt or perhaps a bound pocket on the jacket front.  Hmm, does anyone else see the irony here?  

  

Today, pockets are lacking or at least minimized in ready-to-wear clothing as an austerity measure. Details such as buttons and pockets have slowly been given less and less importance and prominence in clothing design in recent years.  

Scanning the menswear department, I noticed the lack of chest pockets on men's dress shirts.  The Ultimate Guide to Dress Shirts suggests that pockets on men's shirts decreases the formality of a shirt and that most men don't use them. Some questionably argue otherwise, "[w]hy are women constantly trying to feminize the American [m]ale?" Seriously, the dude needs to stop blaming women and find himself a good tailor because RTW is not going to give him shirt pockets. In the age of fast fashion, it's all about getting clothing to the racks as quickly and cheaply as possible and pockets are deemed unnecessary in the process. Sewing on the other hand [pun unintended] allows you to add all the pockets that your heart desires. But you might have to draft your own.  

Scanning the offerings by Vogue patterns most long sleeve dress shirts are void of pockets with the exception of Vogue 8759. McCall's offers shirt pockets on many of their casual shirt offerings. And yet, vintage pattern finds are abundant with pockets from last century's offering. 

{Source}

Could this be, dare we say, another cultural shift in pockets? Are men shirt pockets out of style, a vintage design feature of days gone by? 

{Source}

As long as we have devices, wallets, sun glasses and whatever else we want to get out of our fingers, there will always be the desire for pockets. The question is do we want them to be seen or unseen. What are your thoughts on pockets?    

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

The sewing mojo has taken a hit lately. There has been mending and alterations work going on and on and on.

This summer sandals have made it to the sewing table twice this summer.

This is a ready-to-wear (RTW) shirt that I've had for many moons. It hasn't seen the light of day or night since I gained weight and it didn't look as good as it once did. Until a recent weight loss occurred, this shirt wasn't even on my radar for alterations.  

The hem shortened, cuffs and a bit of the sleeve length cut off to earn this shirt a place in the closet. 

More hems. 

The sewing mojo might return with the arrival of this pattern, Tina Givens' Iris dress. I'm not a fan of the pattern cover photo but this photo captured my imagination. The dress shape reminds me of Lynn Mizono's Vogue 1410. I really like the Iris dress pattern for its large collar that drapes over the shoulder, the fact that it has sleeves and, wait for it, POCKETS! This will be my first Tina Givens project and it will be interesting to see how the two patterns compare.  

Will see what sewing in July turns out... 

Happy Sewing!  

Monday's Mending Pile

Today's item is not actually a mending project, it's actually more of an addition. I made this dress for Mama R last year and ever since she has been asking me for pockets. I should know better than to  deliver to her a dress without pockets but that's what I did.  

And she waited.  

I actually did try to sew pockets back when I made it, everything was going well until...

I made a mistake clipping the corners. And then I gave up and moved onto other projects. I made up for that today.  

The first set of pockets that I tried to make were with polyester lining fabric. But these pockets are lined with leftover silk fabric from this project.  They feel sublime and best part is that Mom is happy.  

Happy Sewing!

Happy Blog-iversary!

Wow, I can't believe that it has been seven years that I've been blogging about my sewing journey. It's been a journey for sure. I have been sewing for longer than I have been blogging but blogging about it has certainly mapped out my growth and changes.   

There has been gift sewing. I've lost count how many of these baby onesies I've made over the years for friends, work colleagues, charities, and family. Sewing from out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 pre-dates this blog.  

There has been a lot of sewing for my love, my dear Mom. This is her wearing what will become her favourite and go-to dress pattern, Simplicity 2372. After a few requested changes to this pattern, it has been remade into countless versions. Mom used to sew our clothes when we were little, and now I have the pleasure to sew her the dresses that she otherwise wouldn't be able to find in the retail landscape.  

My greatest sewing honours would be sewing for my niece and nephews over the years. Left, my little niece is wearing a hat I made for her from OOP McCall's 8548. I made her the matching dress that came with the pattern. It's an adorable pattern, circa 1996, that even has a little boys' outfit as well. If you happen to find a copy of it and have little ones to sew for, I do recommend picking it up.  Right, is the graduation dress, Simplicity 2398, I had the privilege of sewing for my all-grown-up niece. It was truly a labour of love for at the time I was not 100% comfortable with sewing slippery satin fabrics. I was over-the-moon happy to have made this for her special day.  

This young man has been one of my favourite people to sew for over the years. My youngest nephew would make a request and it would fill my heart with so much joy that he would want me to sew for him. It has been many moons since then but it always brings happy memories when I think back to that time. And I have learned a few things along the way.  

1.  Sewing coats is not that hard. Little girls' coat pattern, Vogue 9219.  

2.  A dress is never perfect unless it has pockets. Dress pattern, Simplicity 2372.  

3.  Nothing beats the feeling of lined pockets.  

4.  When you know how to sew and your favourite soccer team makes it to the finals, you can whip up a dress for the occasion. Dress pattern, Vogue 9130.  

5.  Keep learning new skills, you might surprise yourself with what you can pull off.  

6.  Never pass up on a vintage sewing book, they're filled with priceless bits of advice that are often lost in the newer books.  

7.  Reuse and repurpose fabric. You don't have to make a trip to the fabric store, you can have "fabric" hanging around to make into something.  

8.  Learn about fabrics, just because it is the latest trendy fabric doesn't mean that it will be comfortable and suitable. And if it doesn't work out, embrace the lesson, laugh, share, and move on. Dress made by combining Vogue 1312 and Vogue 9060.  

9.  Sew for those who appreciate it, it will bring you both joy. Learn to say no to the others who are out to use you. Your time is valuable. Jacket pattern, OOP Vogue 8916.     

10.  Be mindful, make a difference and always have fun. Top pattern, Vogue 9056.  Pants pattern, OOP Vogue 1325.  Label necklace, no pattern used.  

Happy Sewing!  

    

Fifteen Minutes at a Time..

I will tell you, back in January when the physiotherapist said that it will be awhile before I'm sewing again, I was skeptical. Seriously, how long does a tailbone injury take to heal? Well, it seems it takes awhile. And it's quite painful. I miss sewing.  

The good news is that I've been given the go-ahead to try fifteen minutes of sewing at a time. It might take awhile to get something done but at least its something. It's still painful to sit and I'm working up to 15 minutes if I'm not on pain meds. I don't like take medications since it makes me drowsy and well that's not at all helpful when sewing. So what's a gal with a tailbone injury to do? Take it slow.  

I'm slowly tackling the new Marcy Tilton jacket, Vogue 9244. I actually cut it out weeks ago when the pattern arrived. Saint Anne, Patron saint of seamstresses seems to still be messing with me. As I cut out this pattern before checking out these cautionary reviews.

Over the past couple of days I worked up to step #7 to discover that something was not right. I thought it was my own error since I also discovered that I cut out pattern piece #2 out of the fashion fabric instead of interfacing. My bad. In my defence, I'm been functioning on pain meds. The width of the pocket (3) and pocket facing (4) does not match the width of the side front (5) as shown on the right. If I pin the sides together on both edges, as shown on the left, there is a noticeable pucker come from underneath of the upper pocket edge. ~sigh~

Not only doesn't this pucker match the sample jacket on the pattern envelope, it doesn't match the illustration in the instruction sheet. It wouldn't normally bother me this much if I weren't this sore, but it is just an added pain in the tailbone area as this will send me back to the drawing board to slash and spread the pocket and pocket facing and recut more fabric. Not to mention the 1.8 metre of Knit-N-Stable™tape that's now wasted on the pocket facings. 

Maybe sewing wasn't a good idea. I really don't have the energy and mindset for this and this it's not putting me in a happy mood. I fear Vogue 9244 is about to become an unfinished object (UFO) until I'm feeling better. Thankfully, there is enough left-over fabric to cut out new pockets and pocket facings.  

Happy Sewing!  

The Making of a Cape: Chapter 3 -- Welt Pockets

I took a detour from the vintage pattern instruction sheet to add a modern twist to the seventies cape pattern. I want pockets like those found on the Kate Spade cape. Aren't they just sublime?  

Of all the cape patterns that I was tempted by, I couldn't recall any that featured pockets. Now, where is a gal supposed to put her essentials without pockets?  

The JoeyBra {Source)

Yes, the fashionably hip might suggest the JoeyBra. But seriously, a gal my age could dislocate a shoulder trying to utilize the JoeyBra in the frigid prairie winters while wearing a cape. And that is how I found myself on the road to adding pockets. It was a road previously untravelled. Sure, I have sewn pockets before, side-seam pockets, side-front pockets, patch pockets and that is about it. I have never sewn a welt pocket before. 

And this is where OOP Vogue 8863 comes into the picture. I read a review that praised the pockets on this jacket and check it out, a welt pocket just like on the Kate Spade cape.  

Oh my! I was excited to start on this journey into unknown territory but I knew I needed some encouragement. Since Claire Shaeffer proved to be an inspiration on the trek towards bound buttonholes bliss, I turned to her soothing voice to lead the way.

I found Claire's words of wisdom via Thread Cult podcasts by Christine Cyr Clisset (#29 to be exact).

As Claire guides me through the difficult task of hand basting all those layers of wool and horsehair interfacing,

I continue on with the promise that hand stitching is the golden goose of the sewing world. Or something along those lines.

Between kAtheRine Tilton's excellent pocket pattern, instructions, breaking down and finally wearing a thimble, and Claire Schaeffer's encouragement, I completed my first welt pocket. Actually, I made two!

Until the next chapter,  happy sewing.