Stash busting: New Cotton Knit Slip / Kwik Sew 3645

Another cotton knit slip is hot off the worktable.  After some much appreciated feedback on the toile, it is time to make another.  

Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 3645 turned out to be a perfect pattern for this project.  The request was for a undershirt / tank top style strap.  The pattern is designed as sleepwear but it also turned out to be perfect option for sewing a slip.  The changes made on the toile were repeated here; shortened the shoulder seam by three-quarters of an inch, straightened and shortened the hemline and added about two inches extra ease from the hemline by pivoting from the centre back and front neckline points.  I transferred all the changes to the copied pattern piece.  The pattern pieces were cut two inches shorter and three quarters of an inch at the shoulder seam.  Now the pattern can be considered a true and tested pattern.  

The armholes and neckline were finished with Knit 'N Stable tape, serged and then folded over and top-stitched using the knit stitch on the sewing machine.  The hem was turned up an inch, basted and cover stitched.  

This fabric has been in the stash for decades and was purchased at the same time as the floral print knit used for the toile slip.  I bought them together thinking that they would be the fashion and lining fabric for a wrap dress and then plans changed.  It was nice to finally stash bust this fabric and at the same time a bit sad because working with it, it became obvious that this is a fabric from a by-gone era.  They don't sell cotton knit fabric of this exceptional quality now-a-days.  ~sigh~  I was careful to set aside the remnants with plans to cut underwear pattern pieces for a future sewing project.  But I digress.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a spin in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made sewing project.  The fabric came from Fanny Fabrics many moons ago prior to the global tariff war.  Fanny Fabrics is a now closed Canadian Fabric outlet.  The pattern, OOP Kwik Sew 3645, was recently purchased from an American Ebay seller.  The original copy of the pattern that was in the stash is lost.  And sometimes when you are sewing for someone you love, you just sometimes have to forget the boycott for a moment.  There was a search for a Canadian seller who might have this pattern listed but I came up empty.  I tried.  The threads used in the machines and for hand basting were all found in the stash and were purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  Same with the basting tape.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and Cover stitch

Fabric:  2.0 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645, circa 2012

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, pencil, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome CoverPro 1000CP, Janome 2000D serger, threads for the machines and basting, hand sewing needle, screwdriver, tweezers, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and ice tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: New Batch of Panties / OOP Simplicity 8229

This batch of panties will replace the previous batch made about sixteen months ago because the elastic feels like it is cutting into my leg.  These are made in a lighter cotton knit than the previous batch.  The fabric will be more comfortable to wear.  The other cotton knit has less stretch and was a bit thicker.  And the elastic will be a little looser in the thigh area.  So for now, it's back to the cutting table with out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8229.  

The pattern has been a keeper and a go-to for making panties.  Looking back at previous posts for this pattern, it first made an appearance at the worktable in 2017.  It's a great pattern.  The 97% cotton / 3% spandex knit fabric has been in the stash for quite awhile, same with the elastic.  Years already.  It's nice to finally have this want-to-make project done.  There was enough fabric to cut out six pairs of panties.  That wasn't the case for the elastic, two pairs were sewn with an ivory coloured elastic whereas four have matching pink elastic.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies used to make these were found in the stash and did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  The out-of-print pattern, Simplicity 8229, is a U.S.A. product that has been in the stash for years.  The fabric has also been in the stash for years and came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The picot elastic is from Marshall Fabrics, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project were made in Tiawan and were purchased at Fabricland.  The threads are an assortment of various shades of pink and purple pulled from the stash, some from Woolworth's which was a retail store from back in the day.  Since it's underwear, I didn't feel the need to run out and pick up matching thread and just made do with what was found here.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) and zig-zag stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Elastic:  14.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, thread clippers, pins, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, a lot of thread, tweezers, heating pad and tea.    

Good tunes:  Bad Bunny.  I became a fan huge fan the other night.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.   

Part Two: Sewing Sleepwear to Wear With a Scoliosis Brace / Vogue 1852

Finally, I can present my new pajama top made with Vogue 1852.  

For over a month now, I've been planning on sewing new sleepwear to accommodate my latest fashion accessory.   Instead of labelling my slowness as procraftination, I'll call it my devotion to research.  I fell off the RTW fast and picked up some custom made undergarments from Brace Buddies, a Canadian company.  They are amazing, period.  I really like that they are long in order to cover the outside of the brace and protect the clothes from the Velcro straps.  Super love that all of the tanks are custom made in cotton knit fabric.  I took one of the tanks as my inspiration for my new pajama top.   

I like the underarm flap, it protects a region of my body that is prone to abrasion wounds.  What I miss in a sleepwear garment is sleeves.  Especially in the winter.  I need sleeves.  BRRRR!, because it can get cold during the winter months.  

This make is a combination of the Brace Buddy design and Vogue 1852.  I extended the length according to the Brace Buddy design.  

The extra length is so that the hemline could be lift up to cover the brace, protecting the bedding and other clothing from ruin by the velcro straps.  

Just one small adjustment is needed, to narrow the width at the hemline.  It is not as fitted as the Brace Buddy version where it is supposed to be pulled up.  It's a simple fix.  I tapered the width from about 2 1/2" below the underarm to about an inch from the hem.  It was narrowed about four inches in width from the bottom hemline and now it is nice and snug when pulled up over the brace.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit that has been in the stash for many, many moons.  I found this fabric at Mitchell Fabrics which closed down in 2017.  I used some of the yardage previously for underwear and there is still some yardage left.  Maybe enough for some leggings or pajama shorts?  We'll see.  

Sewing IS Still Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric was from a pre-Trumpian era and purchased from Mitchell Fabrics, a now closed Canadian fabric outlet.  Vogue 1852, circa 2021, was designed during the Trumpian era, however it did not have any added tariffs that would support the convicted felon's economy.  So, I will not count this as an elbows up lapse.  The pattern was picked up during a clearance sale as Fabricland (a Canadian company) is discontinuing the sale of paper patterns.  There were no tariffs added to the discounted price of the pattern.  Although it is sad that we will no longer be able to pick up Big Four patterns at a brick and mortar store if the day ever comes that the convicted felon ends his tariff war.  Oh well, there are enough patterns in the stash to keep me busy until the end of my sewing days.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were pulled from the stash and are many moons old.  

Projects details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 1852, circa 2021

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins. tailor's chalk, pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

A Forgotten Project: OOP Simplicity 8229

 

This project, OOP Simplicity 8229, was started last year when my serger went into the shop and stayed there for over a month waiting for a new needle plate.  It was half done when the serger needed repair.  And then I forgot about it until I recently stumbled across this half finished project and resumed work.  

It's finally done!  

I did not use the Cover stitch machine on this pair.  I went old school and used the zigzag stitch for securing the elastic.  I prefer this technique.  The fabric is a pre-washed cotton knit.  The elastic is 3/8" picot.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies were found in the stash and purchased before the convicted felon declared a global trade war against the world.  Let's count the ways that this project did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

1. The pattern, OOP Simplicity 8229 (circa 2016), is an American made product.  It has been in the stash and used before the convicted felon declared an economic war on my country with the goal of annexation.  Never going to happen, that is why there is a boycott of American products.  
2. The fabric was purchased before the convicted felon broke the trade agreement he himself signed.  It was purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  
3. The scissors used for cutting out this project are from Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company.  They were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian company.  
4. The elastic was purchased from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  
5. The sewing machines are Janome, a Japanese company.  
6. The threads were found in the stash, purchased before the convicted felon's started his rein of terror.  The threads used in this project are all Coats and Clark which contributed to the convicted felon's election campaign.  Once the Coats and Clark threads are depleted from the stash, they will not be replenished.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, ballpoint needle (size 12), Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads (cotton for the sewing machine, polyester for the serger), thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-jig™.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May 2025: The Second Week

Days 8 to 16:  

Top row L to R:  purple bamboo and cotton pullover top (OOP Vogue 1247), 100% cotton denim skirt (OOP Vogue 1247), black and white front buttoned top/jacket (OOP Vogue 8709), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and 100% cotton pullover dress (Butterick 6784). 
Middle row L to R:  pear print pullover dress (Eva dress by Tessuti patterns), 100% cotton pullover dress (Trapeze dress by Merchant and Mills), reversible apron (OOP Butterick 5263). 
Bottom row L to R:  Butterfly print cotton knit t-shirt (OOP Vogue 9057), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790), cotton and linen pullover top (OOP Vogue 9317), wool suiting pull-on pants (OOP Vogue 1642) and cotton pullover dress (Eva dress by Tessuti patterns).  

Can you believe that we're half way through Me Made May?  This week threw me from my typical May wardrobe choices.  At the start of the week we had some uncharacteristically warm hot weather.  It reached plus thirty-seven degrees Celsius (98.6℉) on Tuesday.  Sleeveless options, unless I'm wearing it with a t-shirt or turtleneck, are typically unheard of in May.  But here we were digging through summer time clothes.  Things have since cooled significantly and we're having some much needed rain.  

Here are some observations during the second week of Me Made May, 

1. Adding a rain jacket or coat would be nice.  Maybe something upcycled from a vinyl tablecloth?  I've watched some videos where that was done and they've turned out well.  Maybe I can turn a shower curtain into a rain coat?  I could do without as well, it's more of a fun project than something I need.  
2. I've started seriously thinking about that sports bra project after I stumbled across a pattern on sale.  The Pika 2679 by Jalie patterns is currently sitting at the work table.  I need to trace it out and adjust the pattern.  It will be nice to have a comfortable custom-made option to wear under t-shirts.  
3. I'm making more cotton undergarments with OOP Simplicity 8229.  The last set of panties had the elastic sewn on with the cover stitch machine but it didn't hold up as well as the earlier versions sewn with the zigzag stitch on my sewing machine.  I going old school with this new batch.  
4. I've noticed that I'm reaching for older pieces during Me Made May.  And I'm spending more time repairing and mending these than spending time creating something new.  Most of my sewing has been behind the scenes and often involves hand-stitched repairs.  Poor sewing machines are collecting dust.  

Well that's the latest Me Made May update.  Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Undershirts to Wear Under the Scoliosis Back Brace: OOP Vogue 9057

This pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057, has been a go-to for t-shirts so, I thought I would revisit it to make a more fitted version of an undershirt to wear under the scoliosis back brace.  Just a side note:  this pattern was re-issued as Vogue 1733.  The first step is to create a pattern piece for the underarm padding and adjust the neckline.  

The back brace comes too close to my underarm area and without padding, the brace gives me abrasion wounds.  Not fun, but it worked on the previous top so I'm recreating it here as well.  I made the pattern piece covering the front and back pieces under the arm, but then I had to cut it where the side seams were to construct it the way I wanted.  

The shoulder seams were sewn right sides together but the armhole and side seams were sewn wrong sides together.  I did this so that I won't have to deal with any uncomfortable bulky seams against my skin while wearing this t-shirt with the scoliosis back brace.  The neckline was raised one inch all around and then top-stitched with a 5/8" hem around the neck.  

This time with this pattern, I did not add any extra ease, it is a straight size medium with no other adjustments.  It fits perfect, even the sleeve length.  I really wanted a undershirt with sleeves.  It's winter and the one I previously made with short sleeves is not keeping my arms warm enough and I'm not brave enough to throw a sweater over the brace with all the metal and velcro.  

Notice that little blue square near the hemline.  It's not decorative.  I noticed that there was a flaw in the fabric half way through the construction process.  

The "made it" label by KATM is to patch up the hole.  It really wasn't necessary because once I put the brace on, it would be covered.  I like the way it turned out though and I am glad I patched it up.  

I'm not disappointed with the fabric even with this small hole, I picked it up for $3.00 (Cdn) a metre.  A real deal considering that it is a French terry.  There are some other flaws in the yardage but I can work around it.  I really like the comfort provided with the French terry fabric I used in the last version and since I have a lot of it remaining in the stash, I'm will also be revisiting the same fabric.  The plan is to make more now that I found a pattern that is the perfect fit.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged and lightening bolt (knit stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.4 metres (1 1/2 yards)

Label:  1--KATM "MADE IT" label

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9057, circa 2014

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Folding table, fabric scissors, paper, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, black fine tip marker, paper scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: OOP Simplicity 8229

I finally finished the batch of undies I started last month.  Life and a late summer cold turned this into a slow sewing project.   

Simplicity 8229 is a favourite and the go-to pattern for sewing panties around the work table.  Sadly, it is no longer available but it was mentioned over on Pattern Review that this pattern is similar.  Added bonus:  it's a free downloadable PDF pattern and since it's for panties, it won't eat up all the ink and paper at the printer.  

The fabric has been in the stash since the time when Mitchell Fabrics was open, pre-twenty seventeen.  You don't find cotton knit like this in the remaining fabric stores in the region.  It was a pleasure to sew and it's a comfortable knit to wear.  The picot elastic was found many moons ago at Marshall Fabrics but it's been years since I've been able to find picot elastic like this locally.  I'm grateful that I had the materials to make these panties and at the same time sad that it's getting harder to find these items.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) and zig-zag stitch

Seam finish:  Serged 

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Elastic:  7 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools and Supplies:   Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome CoverPro, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

August in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Clockwise L to R:  Reversible wool winter jacket (OOP Vogue 2571), cotton patchwork garment cover (no pattern used), cotton knit panties (OOP Simplicity 8229).

Most of the sewing on the reversible winter jacket was done in the previous months.  I didn't finish it before August arrived and I certainly didn't plan on sewing it during the hot summer months.  This project almost took a year to complete from the dreaming about it stage to sewing the last toggle on.  I'm just happy I'll be set for when the cooler weather arrives.  Apparently, we're supposed to have a traditional cold prairie winter with lots of snow.  Woohoo!  I'm not a fan of the summer heat or the insects that thrive in this weather.  

the winter of 2024-25 should see below-normal temperatures for about two-thirds of the nation, from east of the Rockies to Ontario. 

Winter temperatures will be coldest from the Prairies into the Great Lakes region. The coldest outbreak of the season will come during the final week of January into the beginning of February when frigid Arctic air brings a sharp plunge in temperatures especially across the Prairies.  [Source:  Canada Winter Weather Forecast 2024-2025 - Farmers' Almanac (farmersalmanac.com)]

This reversible wool winter jacket and a pair of ski-pants will keep me warm enough to survive this weather outlook.  

Replenishing undergarments have certainly been on my want-to-sew list this month.  The wish to sew a new batch of panties only yielded one pair so far.  Currently all my sewing equipment is put away but once the equipment comes out so will OOP Simplicity 8229.  

As far as alterations, I did spend some time with a seam ripper and try to alter this skirt hoping to make it fit.  But it ended up in the scrap fabric pile instead.  If the skirt couldn't be altered, the plan is to save and reuse the fabric.  

There is a big mending pile that was neglected this summer while I tended to the blessings from the garden and fruit trees.  

Top L to R:  Fruit and custard tart (birthday dessert, recipe from Good Housekeeping Illustrated Book of Desserts), homemade ricotta cheese (because the price of ready made cheese is ridiculous and it is super easy to make cheese, recipe from shelovesbiscotti.com) and apples prepped and ready to make a batch of homemade apple juice (so many recipes found online, take your pick). 
Middle L to R:   this was the summer of pie-making, apple and gooseberry pies (recipes from Good Housekeeping Illustrated Book of Desserts).  
Bottom L to R:  homemade hamburger buns (recipe found online), homemade French bread (recipe from one of the Moosewood cookbook), and gooseberries!, oh my gosh, so many gooseberries that there was even gooseberry jam production.  

With the exception of the ricotta cheese, all of these were shared with others.  The ricotta is saved to use in lasagna which will likely be shared with others.  It was fun and exhausting working in the kitchen but I will admit I miss having some time to sew.  Although, after all that hand-stitching on the winter jacket it was nice to have a bit of a break and let the sore fingers recover.  Maybe now that it's approaching the end of harvest, I might get a chance to tend to that mending pile.  

Stash-busting 

Stash busted this month:

• 4.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patchworked together to create new fabric yardage
• 2.4 metre elastic
• 5 leather toggles
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 4 thread spools

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 63 metres fabric + scrap pieces patchworked together to create new fabric yardage
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 8 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather toggles
• 7.4 metres elastic
• 18 thread spools
• 4.3 metres basting tape

Total additions this year:

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine.  

Happy Sewing!

New Batch of Undies: OOP Simplicity 8229

Simplicity 8229 is now an out-of-print (OOP) pattern.  If you can find it, it is one that I highly recommend.  I've made more than a few pairs of cotton panties for myself and others over the years using this pattern.  It is my absolute go-to and trusted pattern for this project.  

The fabric and elastic are pulled from the stash.  The fabric is a light yellow cotton knit from the now closed Mitchell Fabrics.  The blue picot elastic was sourced from Marshall / Northwest Fabrics many years ago.  

This is the first pair of a batch that I plan to make.  On that note, I should get back to work.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit / Lightening bolt stitch

Seam finish:  Overlock and Cover stitch

Fabric:  0.5 metres (95% cotton, 5% spandex)

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome coverpro, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

New Undies: Simplicity 8229

Replenishing the underwear drawer is proving to be a challenge this year.  First, are we in another elastic shortage?  There is no picot elastic to be found in any of the local fabric stores this year.  None.  I couldn't even source locally two inch wide elastic for another project.  But I digress.  Thankfully, there were bits and pieces of white picot elastic to stitch together for this pair.  

Another pair is cut and the elastic is a mismatch of what I could find on hand.  The elastic for the waist is white and the elastic for the leg openings is cream coloured with different scalloped edges.  As Tim Gunn would say, 

So I made it work, the best I could and I'm okay with it.  Guess I'll have to look online if I want to find picot elastic.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Topstitching:  3.0 zig-zag stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Elastic:  1.8 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!