Butterick 6495: Is it a Jacket or a Cardigan?

It's nippy out there and who wouldn't want a comfy cardigan made with a warm cotton sweatshirt fabric?  This is my hope, that this cardigan will be well received.  Butterick patterns refers to this piece as a jacket but I think of a jacket as having some sort of front closing, a cardigan does not, so I'm naming this garment a cardigan.  

I would highly recommend Butterick 6495 as a quick make for someone on your Christmas list.  Or for yourself if you've been extra good this year.  It's actually the third time I've sewn up this project and I would even recommend this for a beginner.  This cardigan has only four pattern pieces (front, back, sleeve and band) and comes together without any issues.  This is one well-drafted pattern.  I was even able to flat fit the sleeves on this one.  Easy peasy!  

This fabric is a Katia print that I picked up at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  The cotton sweatshirt fabric is be toasty warm and the woodsy print is too cute, don't you think?  The fabric was pre-treated in the wash cycle followed by a tumble in the dryer, before it hit the cutting table.  I was thrilled that the only pressing that was required was after sewing seams and pressing the hemlines.  It handled the cotton setting on the iron very well.  

Project Details

Seams:  Lightning bolt / knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.4 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6495

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, measuring gauge, cord, marker, tailor's chalk, scissors, pins, pin cushions, thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-Jig®, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, regular presser foot, serger, threads (5 spools for the equipment), and sweet, precious time.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

The Pre-treatment: Seeing the Right Amount of Red

Do you pretreat your fabrics before you embark on a new sewing project?  

Generally, I do pre-treat my fabric with the method that I plan to launder a project once it is complete. Sometimes, I don't for one reason or another.  

My Euro Cup final dress was a last minute project when Portugal made it to the final game match. There wasn't any time to waste so I skipped the pre-treatment process and this became a one-wear wonder. The red dye bled all over the neighbouring colours. It broke my creative heart because of the memories tied to it and it was comfortable too. Lesson learnt.  

Fast forward, with a stop down memory lane. A couple of years ago I spotted this project, a festive Canada Day worthy shirt. I always admired this project, and how fun would it be to have your own unique Canada Day shirt that is not a t-shirt? Quite fun, I thought when I spotted this cotton print.  

Yes, just like the Portuguese flag, Canada's flag colours also have red. This is going to call for some careful pretreatment in case this fabric is a bleeder.  And I wasn't willing to risk it so I did some research.  

It came out just lovely wrinkled but the print is the same and the colours are in their original state. kAtheRine Tilton's Butterick 6325 is the pattern I'm thinking about using moving forward. I wonder if I can get this done in time? Next up a good pressing before this moves to the cutting table.  

  

Happy Sewing!

To Pre-shrink or Not

Some think that it's unnecessary to pre-treat fabric. 

{Source}

Yet anyone who has purchased ready-to-wear (RTW) and has lost a garment in just one wash due to shrinkage knows that manufacturers often cut out this step in order to get garments to the market quickly. Maybe that is why the RTW landscape is over run with oversized basic baggy styles? As sewists, we're in control of the quality of the items we sew. So, the question today is do you preshrink your fabric before cutting out a project?   

Cotton stretch shirting fabric.

Pressing out the length of cotton shirting fabric that I plan to use for the next project, I noticed a that my fabric shrunk both in the lengthwise and crosswise grain by a noticeable amount. Luckily, there was enough fabric to cut out all of the pattern pieces. I always pre-treat my fabrics before I cut them out but to be completely honest, my motivation is more about having a cleaned product on my cutting table. The length of fabric came from a shop that had a cat.  I'm terribly allergic to cats. But I digress...

Back to the question of pre-shrinking your fabric. Vogue Sewing, my go-to sewing reference book instructs us to shrink fabric if it hasn't been pre-shrunk by the manufacturer or if it will shrink more than 1% according to the label.  

The advice written in this edition of Vogue Sewing was written in the mid-nineteen-seventies.  I don't know about your local fabric labels but this is unheard of in this part of the world. As a matter of fact, I've never seen a fabric label that contains this information. It's more common to find "unknown fibres" stamped across fabric labels found at the local Fabricland and even more rare to find a label at Northwest Fabrics.   

Vogue Sewing doesn't go into how to test if a fabric is prone to more than 1%, for this information, I was able to discover the method in Sew A Fine Seam, circa 1955. 

If possible, procure a generous sample--at least 1 x 2 inches in size, with a selvedge--so you can easily determine the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric.  Trim the raw edges of sample so the edges are "clean cut."  Cut a piece of paper the exact size of the sample.  Wet sample thoroughly and lay flat to dry.  Do not press dry.  When sample is completely dry, compare with paper.  The slightest difference in size indicates shrinkage. Supposing your fabric was cotton, 36 inches wide and the shrinkage was 1/32 of an inch in the lengthwise grain and 1/16 of an inch in the crosswise grain.  This may seem a very slight amount, but in a yard of fabric, it is enough to result in a snug garment after it has been laundered or dry cleaned (Wilson, 35-6).

This method is basically explain in here as well.

I didn't do the sample test on the piece of fabric I was pressing when I noticed that the crosswise grain was smaller than prior to the tumble in the washing machine followed by the dryer cycle. Instead, I measured my the lengthwise grain before and after and discovered that I lost 0.3 metres in the process.  I'm quite relieved that it shrunk before instead of after I sewed my project. 

Allowance for Shrinkage

What do you do if you're trying to decide on how much fabric is needed for a project when you're not in the position to do the shrinkage test?  Pattern companies don't incorporate a shrinkage allowance when listing the yardage requirements.  It would be a tough thing to suggest considering that different fabrics behave differently when washed or dry-cleaned.  

Sew A Fine Seam provides a quick general guideline:  

• Allow 1/8 yard or 0.11 metres for a blouse, skirt, or jacket.  
• Allow 1/4 yard or 0.23 metres for a dress, suit, pajamas, or coat
• Allow 1/3 to 1/2 yard or 0.30 to 0.46 metres for a floor length garment if the width of your fabric is 36" or 54" respectively.  

If I went with this I would have underestimated how much shrinkage would have occurred with the cotton stretch fabric on my cutting table. These recommendations are from last century when body shapes, clothing styles and fabrics were different than they are today so I would only take them as a interesting footnote rather than a steadfast rule.

I do like the sample test for shrinkage as a reference but to be honest, I don't really put that much research into how much a fabric may or may not shrink.  How about you?  Or do you just cut and hope for the best?

Happy Sewing!

For Some Reason...

I feel like eating a piece of Lemon Meringue pie. It might be because I skipped dinner last night to work on this dress. Plus throw in my sweet tooth into the mix. Or perhaps it's the colours of this silk fabric?    

This is the latest version of the Eva dress by Tessuti patterns. Oh. My. Goodness. This might be my favourite version so far and not because it's invoking thoughts of pie.  

I made all the changes to this dress as I did the last version and I'm just thrilled with the final fit. I changed the shape of the neckline by raising it all around by 1" providing more coverage and still allowing the design to remain a pullover style. The short sleeves were lengthened another inch and a half. The seam allowances were sewn with 5/8" instead of 1/2" allowances. The pockets were raised an inch and the hem was shortened by two inches.  

Inside look.  

Even though there was enough fabric to make my own seam binding, I used up some left over seam bindings that I found in my stash. I used some regular old white double seam binding for the neckline and sleeves. I didn't have enough for the hem but I did have just enough satin binding left over from this project. It felt good to use up supplies from the stash.    

Once again, I didn't follow the instructions, changing the order of construction. The only reason is that I felt comfortable doing it my way. Why set-in fitted sleeves when you can flat pin them? This is a perfectly drafted pattern making it easy to do.  

1. Sew the shoulder seams.  As mentioned previously I made this dress with 5/8" seam allowances. Press open.  
2. Reinforce the neckline seam with Knit-N-Stable fusible tape. Insert seam binding.
3. Flat pin the sleeve cap to the armhole seam.  
4. Sew the centre front and back seam of the upper skirt.  
5. Attach the upper skirt to the bodice pieces.
6. Sew the centre front and back seam of the lower skirt.
7. Attach the lower skirt to the upper skirt matching centre seams.   
8. Serge curve edges of the pocket pieces.  
9. Attach the pockets to the upper skirt section with 3/8" seam.  
10. Serge the raw edges of the pockets and press open.  
11. Pin the sides, pockets and sleeves and stitch.  
12. Finish the sleeve hem with seam binding.  
13. Finish the lower skirt hem with seam binding.    

The fabric is a silk fabric that I found in the home decor department.  

If it looks familiar, you might have seen it in another colour when I made this top. It is a medium-weight silk that I found at my local Fabricland store. I often find treasured pieces of fabric in the home decor department and these were some of my favourite finds. And there is still some left on the bolt. It was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer and a pressing on the silk setting. It handled the pre-treatment process very well. I will say that I had to work quickly and carefully with this fabric. The threads on the cross-grain certainly frayed as I work and if I wasn't careful the wrist pin cushion I was using would catch on some of those fraying threads. The seams down the sides didn't fray as much as the hems.  

Well, the latest version of the Eva dress will be the last one for awhile. There are other projects that I need to get to and Mama R has been patiently waiting for another dress or two. I should get to work on those.    

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.7 metres 100% silk

Seam binding:  2.8 metres 

Fusible Tape:  1 metre Knit-N-Stable™ tape

Pattern:  The Eva Dress by Tessuti patterns

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, silk pins, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads for the sewing machine and serger, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, good tunes and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!  

Charcoal Grey Top

Stash busting 2015:  OOP Vogue 8118

This is a perfect addition to my winter work wardrobe and I have Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic to thank. Thank you!  

The Pattern:

OOP pattern, Vogue 8118, looks simple but there are some special design features. There is so much that I like adore about this pattern.

• The two piece sleeves are the cat's meow!
• It's petite-able! and I totally took advantage of this feature.  
• Multi-sized pattern which I fully utilized with a size 14 at the shoulders and bust, size 16 at the waist and graded to a 18 towards the hemline.
• The empire waist and bust pleats.  

I made version B with the three-quarter length sleeves which look more like full-length sleeves on me. I'm good with it. I did omit the ribbon ties and that would be the only change that I made. I find that the hem feels a little uneven and the fit feels a bit loose around the bust line but I do realize that it is because I left off the ribbon ties. When I pull the top where the ties would be, the hemline is perfect. So I'm kind of on the fence as to whether or not I'm going to add ties. I'll have to check out the ribbon selection next time I'm at the store since there is no more grey ribbon in my stash. Although, I do like the loose comfortable fit.      

The Fabric:

The fabric is a charcoal grey satin-back crepe has been in the stash for many moons. Okay, I know in recent memory there was a time that I had a strong dislike to sewing this fabric. Oh, those foolish days! 

Before I started on my cut pieces, I tested out how my needle, thread and stitch length choices would work tougher on a scrap piece of fabric. I changed the needle to a sharp needle 70/10, sewed the project with 100% polyester thread, and used small stitches (2.4 on my Janome machine). Once I felt confident to start sewing my fabric, I changed to a walking foot to help with those curved seams on slippery fabric. Seriously, if you do not have a walking foot I really do recommend adding one to your tool kit. Also wonderful for sewing knits but I digress... 

Honestly, this fabric would not be in my fabric stash if it weren't for Mama R. It is her favourite fabric and we picked it up when it made it to the discount section. There is still enough to make Mama R a dress. I made the top in this fabric because it is one of the recommended fabrics and I wanted a top in a heavier weight for cooler weather coming that is here. I have to admit that I do like the way the fabric turned out. Who knew?

I did not pre-treat the fabric before I cut it out. It is polyester and I don't recall much shrinkage after using this fabric in the past. I plan to wash it in the delicate cycle and hang it to dry as I wear it. As far as pressing goes, I steam pressed the seams as I sewed using the synthetic setting and it handled the process well.

The Stats:

Fabric:   2 metres $12.20 ($18.00 / metre - 70% off + taxes)

Pattern:  Free!  Thank you Carolyn!

Thread:  I have calculated $3.00 for the thread used on the serger and sewing machine.

Needle: $0.76 ($5.40 for a package of four - 50% off + taxes)

Additional Tools:   Janome sewing machine, serger with a walking foot and sharp 70/10 needle. I used a tailor's ham and steam iron for pressing.

Happy Sewing!

Pressing and Ironing

One of my least favourite chores has to be ironing. It has been a life-long dislike that jeopardized my Home Economics mark back-in-the-day. You see back then I didn't realize the difference between ironing and pressing--other than it uses the same tools which I just thought it couldn't be good thing.

{Source}

  

I still don't like ironing yet that is how I spent my free time this evening, ironing trying to iron twelve metres of pre-washed fabric for the angel costumes. I couldn't do it. 

I'm done for the evening, maybe tomorrow I'll try to do the rest. I might have to pick up wine to finish the job (just kidding). Ironing this much at once amplifies the tediousness of the task that just just seems never-ending. Yet I don't mind pressing as much as I do ironing.  

Pressing while I sew, I don't find tedious. It is actually a welcome break to get up, stretch, and walk over to the ironing board. Pressing, unlike ironing, I find to be part of the creative process. I wonder why I see ironing in the same light.  

Yet there are those who enjoy ironing. Maybe I need to take up mindful meditation during my marathon ironing sessions? Find the beauty in the hissing sound of the iron, the smoothness of the iron as it glides back and forth over the nubbly twill surface of the cotton fabric.  

Or I could just pick up some wine. We'll just have to wait and see what tomorrow will bring.  

Happy Sewing!  

Sewing With Velvet: Pressing

Actually, never press velvet! Sounds crazy when you think about the fact that there is actually such a thing as a velvet press board.

A velvet press board is a wooden or canvas board covered with very fine, short, wire bristles. It is used so that the pile on the velvet fabric lays on top of the needles and "pressing" is done on the wrong side of the fabric. In this position the nap of the fabric can rest on the needles without the pile being crushed.  

In all my years of sewing, I have never come across a velvet pressing board. And I was around when these were all the rage.  

Velvet blazer, circa 1970s

The 1955 edition of Sew a Fine Seam clearly outlines how one is meant to be used.

Lay the velvet, pile down, against the wire board.  Lay a dry press cloth against the wrong side of the velvet.  Lay a damp cloth over this.  Bring a warm iron close to the damp cloth (do not rest the iron on the cloth). The steam will penetrate into the velvet and flatten seams or edges (Messer 82).  

Velvet pressing boards are not a relic of years-gone-by, they still exist and can be found for sale online for a king's ransom.   

Margaret Messer also mentioned a thing called a "velvet press kit" that were once found at sewing centres. Google the phrase velvet press kit and you'll discover it has a totally different meaning today. According to Messer, back in her day, it referred to a "specially prepared plush press pad and special press cloth." 

In the nineteen seventies there appears to be a name change. The 1976 edition of The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing refers to pressing velvet with a "needleboard" as does the 1980 edition of Vogue Sewing. 

Into the next decade Roberta Carr uses the term "bristled press cloth" in the 1993 edition of Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing. She also mentions another product, June Tailor's "Velvaboard" used to protect the nap of velvet fabrics.  

Sandra Kelly wrote an article in The Victoria Advocate back in 1979 offering a cost saving alternative to a velvet pressing needleboard bristle pressing cloth ah, lets go with velvet pressing board.  Her suggestion is to use another fabric with a pile.  

I am both too cheap and lazy short on time to make a velvet pressing board to slip over my ironing board just so I can press some velvet. I'm going with a simple terry cloth draped over the ironing board and it seems to be working just fine.  

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

I signed up for The Pants Contest over at Pattern Review. The plan has been to make a pair of pants using Vogue 8887. I chose this pattern for the challenge. You see, they're underlined and it has a gross grain ribbon waist treatment.  

I've never sewn an underlined pair of pants. Plus they have pockets and cuffs. Sew far, the challenge has been pretreating my fabric. Yup, I haven't even cut them out yet. I picked out an olive green linen and lining. I serged the edges and threw them into the washing machine on the delicate cycle.  

Everything appeared to come out fine until I was pressing the last bit of my linen and noticed spots. These spots were not there before I pretreated my fabric. I suspect they are fabric softener stains. And they are stubborn.  

My linen fabric went in the wash for another tumble minus the fabric softener this time. It came out a wee bit better but there are still remains visible stains. Right now it is soaking and waiting for another tumble in the washing machine. Fingers are crossed that the stains come off this time. I doubt that I will have enough time to finish them for the contest. None-the-less I hope the fabric can be saved and I'll be able to make these pants for the summer. 

While I spent my day trying to pre-treat a piece of fabric, I did manage to do some sewing. It falls under  the ugliest thing I ever sewed. And it is for Mama R. Some days are just not meant to be spent sewing. I could try to blame it on the sinus infection and cough but I shouldn't. I should have trusted my instincts.  But I didn't.   

Hopefully, Sunday will be a better sewing day. I picked up McCall's 6654 and plan to make another maxi skirt to replace the one that was destroyed by weeds last summer. 

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  

The Angel Shirt

I am currently working on another Lynn Mizono design, the Angel Shirt.

Vogue came out with a pattern for this shirt in 2011, Vogue 1274. And I have no reasonable reason why it has taken so long to get this project started.

I'm using a 100% cotton fabric that I found at Ikea. I adore the whimsical print. I think this will be a fun shirt for spring!

I was surprised to find the shirt has stitched French seams. I haven't sewn a garment with French seams in years! I forgot how easy it they are to sew. My serger is getting a break with this project and I'm throughly enjoying the change in pace.  

With wrong sides together stitch 1/4" away from the edge.  Trim and press the seam.  Don't skip the pressing part!
You want a nicely pressed edge for when you turn it over to match right sides together.  

With right sides together stitch 3/8" from the edge encasing the raw edges.
Press again and there you have it a French seam!  

The sleeves and armhole seam are also finished with French seams. There is no fear with this area since the armhole is deep, it shouldn't be difficult at all.

But I did notice in my Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing book, my go-to reference book, that there is a mock French seam for curved edges.

With right sides of fabric together, stitch on the seamline.  Trim seam allowances to 1/2", press, matching folds along the edge.  Stitch these folded edges together.  Press seam to one side (150).

Not that I'm going to try it on this Vogue pattern. I thought it was another interesting self-finished seam.

Well, I have quite a few French seams to finish before I reach the armhole seams. I should get back to work.

Happy Sewing!

Holy Moly!

I'm sewing altar linens, I thought the title works. I've been busy cutting, pressing and sewing 100% linen this weekend.

I have to tell you that I did expect the linen to shrink after I washed it in the washing machine and threw it in the dryer for a tumble. But Holy Moly, I didn't expect it to shrink as much as it did!

In my naivety, I thought the shrinkage would occur in the length of the cloth, but it happened to the width as well. I know, what was I thinking. At the fabric store I estimated that I could cut four purificators out using the layout of the short edge of the purificator along the selvage of the fabric. That was my estimate in the store. I was thinking that I would be able to fit more throughout the length of the cloth. But it is not working out that way, sigh. Instead, laying out my sample piece the other way and I manage to cut six from one width. I'm still getting a good yield from the cloth. I'm just surprised with how much the fabric shrunk.

Sew far, they are coming along nicely. They are not all perfect, just like the sewist. I can say that I'm trying my best. Twelve were completely finished this weekend. And I did manage to cut a whole stack ready to press. Ah pressing, you are my lenten penance this year. A necessary step none-the-less. There are some interesting tips for pressing linen. Have you ever heard of putting your fabric in the freezer before pressing? I wonder what might happen if you forgot about it, freezer burn? But I digress... I found some great tips for pressing linen.

The sewing part I love. Nice small seams that allow me to get up and stretch every now and then. I figure if I shoot for three a day, I can have these finished by Easter.

Happy Sewing!

No word of a lie...

Update:  My nephew likes it and I have to say, he looks quite handsome in it. He said that he has a black suit jacket to go with it. The kid has style.  

"He who observes etiquette but objects to lying is like someone who dresses fashionably but wears no vest." ~Walter Benjamin

The vest is finished, no word of a lie.

I finished the basting yesterday and was able to achieve some nicely pressed edges. It was worth all the work even though it proved to be time consuming. Once pressed I took apart the basting in order to stitch the side seams and slip stitching the lining in place.

I decided to leave out the inner breast pocket. One reason is that I never heard back from my nephew if he decided if he actually wanted one. And the other reason is that I thought it would be too bulky for the vest and would place some unnecessary strain on the lining.

Don't you love the lining? That decision was totally my nephew's. I wasn't sold on it when he first picked the colour from my stash of fabric. I now have to admit that I think it looks quite sharp.

I hope that he will be pleased with it.  [fingers crossed]

Happy sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

This evening I discovered Downton Abbey. I stumbled onto season 2, episode 5. Oh my goodness, the costumes are exquisite. I know, where have I been? I feel ill-prepared to speak about the costumes or the show, I didn't even catch the whole episode. But I did see some lovely blouses and skirt details.

Let's just say my mind was blown away by the work of the costume department for this show. Absolutely beautiful.

Besides watching some television, I did manage to get some sewing done. I'm slowly working on the men's vest, Simplicity 4762.

All the darts are sewn, the lining has been has stitched into place, trimmed and turned. I'm taking a break from painstakingly basting the edges before pressing.

Tomorrow morning, I hope to finish up basting, pressing, sewing the side seams, buttonholes and buttons.

Happy Sewing!

When will I learn?

Never sew before the first cup of coffee.

I was stalled at the neckband and collar section of men's shirt that is on my sewing table. I feared the 5/8" seam allowance and longed for a 3/8" allowance just like the Connie Crawford shirt. That and feeling burnt out this week kept me from moving forward.

I'm back at it today. I'm feeling a little lazy, but I'm back. I decided that trimming the seam allowances down to 3/8" was too much work. Sew, I decided to carry on the way McCall's patterns intended me to, with 5/8" seam allowances. Yup, I'm being lazy.

I basted, I topstitched and even graded my collar seam allowances with care. Just when I was feeling so proud of myself and sauntering off to the ironing board to press, I caught the error of my ways.

Can you see it? Yup, I forgot to turn up the seam allowance of the neckband facing.

I need to finish that morning cup of coffee before I continue with my sauntering to press find the seam ripper.

Happy Sewing!

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Why should you never iron a four-leaf clover?

You don't want to press your luck.

Happy St. Patrick's Day to all my Irish friends out there.  Ah, to everyone, Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Sewing again...

I'm sewing a second black skirt. This time I'm using the Simplicity 4044 pattern. It is a 1940's Retro pattern.

I have to say that I absolutely love this pattern and how it fits.

Not so much loving the heavier-weight polyester crepe fabric that I chose for the project.

The fabric feels wonderful, and it looks great. But boy-oh-boy is it a tough fabric to get the creases out! It was packed away in my stash for a few years and those fold lines are a wee bit stubborn.

So, I'm going to take a break and leave it until the morning and see if I'll have more success with the steamer.

I just have the waist facings and the hem to sew. I can't wait till finish it up!

Pressing News!

I'm talking about the kind that uses an iron and ironing board.

There is nothing that stands between that homemade look and that (hopefully) finely-finished look than an iron, ironing board and a tailor's ham.

Pre-pressed

Pressed!

I will admit that back in the day of home economics class, I was that student the teacher yelled at for trying to postpone pressing. My rebellious wild-child days are long behind me and I've crossed over to the steamy side.

I'm not one to have the pressing equipment near by while I'm sewing. I actually kind of enjoy the short walk to the other room to press the seams and get a bit of a stretch from sitting at the sewing machine. It is the most important exercise of my sewing day.

Thankfully pressing is not ironing. Ironing is a chore, pressing is a technique.

Pressing is the process of lifting the iron and setting it down in the proper position. You can use pressing to accomplish feats not possible with a needle and thread (Vogue Sewing 344).

Some tips that I've learned on the steamy side of life

1. Extra fabric or scraps left over? Perfect! You may want to keep these to test the fabric's reaction to steam and moisture.  
2. Know your fabric, including any interfacing you will be using. I like to have a bit of extra fabric, you never know when fusible interfacing will react to pressing. I would have the heat setting according to the fusible interfacing, you can always turn it higher if it is not hot enough to set.    
3. Try to use the the tip of the iron and work in the same direction as your stitching. It helps to avoid stretching out the fabric.    
4. If using a steamer avoid direct contact with the fabric in order to prevent water marks and puckering. 
5. Unless your garment or pattern piece is cut on the bias, try to press with the grain of the fabric.  
6. Avoid pressing over basting threads or pins so that no imprints or damage are left on the fabric. I learned this one the hard way when I melted the plastic from a pin head onto my fabric.  
7. A pressing cloth can help to protect your fabric from shine. The best pressing cloth that money can buy is an extra scrap of your fabric. If you don't have enough to use for a pressing cloth chose a fabric that is similar in weight.  
8. Always press darts on the wrong side of the fabric before continuing to sew seams, it will help to avoid bulkiness at the seam edges when you go to sew those. Besides, it is much easier to get a neat press of the darts before you sew the seams.  
9. I love this tip from Vogue Sewing, "[u]se brown paper strips to prevent impressions of seam allowances, darts, or pleats from appearing on the right side of your fabric" (344). It works and also handy for removing any wax that might have landed on your fabric while waxing your thread.  
10. Keep your iron clean to prevent damaging your fabric unnecessarily. I use vinegar as a cleaning agent for my iron's surface and take care to check my iron's surface after using fusible interfacing to make sure there is no leftover residue.