Sunday 31 March 2024

March in Review

Happy Easter!

Photo from the 2024 Easter Parade in NYC {Photo Credit:  Joanna Moriello, New York Daily News}

This is a scene outside St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City.  No such festive sights in this part of my world but I do appreciate looking up photos from this annual event.  I hope you are all enjoying a blessed Easter season no matter where you are or how you're celebrating, Happy Easter.  


Sewing, Mending and Alterations



Top L to R clockwise:  Feather print cotton knit pajama top (Closet Core / Ebony), feather print cotton knit pajama bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), pink and gray cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), polka dot cotton foam block cover (no pattern used), gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), rusty brown merino wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192).

Sewing t-shirts on a cover stitch machine was a game changer this month at the sewing table.  How did I ever sew without one?  Sewing knits started off as a challenge in the beginning.  Over the years,  Knit 'N Stable tape had been used for sewing hems on knit fabrics.  No need for using that technique anymore.  Oh, the time that I will save!  

Mending and alterations kept me busy again this month.  There was replacing a broken button and repairing a hole on this dress and re-attaching pant hooks on these.  And going through the wardrobe to see what can be edited or transformed into something else.  I tried to make Vogue 2000 in my typical size but it didn't work out for me.  I need to go up a size.  I'm happy to have the first attempt back on the sewing table to finish.  It will be gifted to someone who fits into it.  I just hope they don't mind that I still plan to make my own chambray version down the road.  But first, there's alterations to do to the pattern pieces and a toile to sew before I cut into anymore chambray fabric.  

Stash busted and Stash Additions

Stash busted this month:  

  • 13.5 metres fabric (includes the fabric used for the yet-to-be finished Vogue 2000)
  • 1.5 metres interfacing
  • 1 -- 55 cm invisible zipper
  • 1 package of seam binding
  • 1 sewing label
  • 1 metre elastic
  • 1 metre basting tape
Additions to the stash:
  • 5 spools of thread
  • one second-hand cover stitch 
  • 15 metres fabric
  • another copy of the re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 2000
Stash busted this year:  
  • 35.3 metres fabric
  • 4.3 metres interfacing
  • 6 invisible zippers
  • 2 metres Knit-N-Stable tape
  • 6 metres trim
  • 4 sewing labels
  • 4 buttons
  • 3 metres elastic
  • 11 spools of thread
  • 4.3 metres of basting tape
This year's additions:
  • 14 spools of thread
  • 7 sewing patterns
  • 10--20 mm buttons
  • 7.8 metres trim
  • 15 metres fabric
  • 1 cover stitch machine
Happy Sewing!

 

Saturday 30 March 2024

Stash busting: Pajama Bottoms / McCall's P349

These are the pajama bottoms I made to go with this t-shirt.  


These pajama bottoms are made with out-of-print (OOP) McCall's P349.  The only change was to shorten the length.  There is an optional decorative tie for the center front waistband.  It is an easy and quick project.  The fabric was pretreated before cutting.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and coversitched

Fabric:  2.1 metres


Pattern:  OOP McCall's P349

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring table, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome cover stitch machine, Janome serger, measuring gauge, tailor's ham, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Wednesday 27 March 2024

Stash busting: Cotton Knit Tee / Closet Core Ebony

 


This is the third version of Closet Core's Ebony t-shirt pattern and it's my favourite one.  There were small subtle changes to the hemline that made it so.  I trimmed a small piece from the back after laying the pre-hemmed top on the table and using the front centre length as a guide.  As I tried to press the hem up I noticed that the side seam at the hemline could use a bit of trimming as well.  That eliminated the hi-low hem that I was trying to avoid.  Hi-low hems seem to work on a taller frame than mine.  This version, I did not cut two inches shorter as I did on the second version.  

The sleeves were kept the same length as the first and second versions, lengthened nine inches.  The hems have a one inch allowance and have been finished with a coverstitch machine. 

Ebony is a keeper, right after I transfer the hemline changes to the pattern pieces.  It's well drafted and a wonderful pattern for beginners, highly recommended.  

The fabric is a cotton knit from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It is the same print and fabric used for this dress, just a different colour.  It was pre-treated with a toss in the wash and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres


Pattern
Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Cover Pro, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday 23 March 2024

Stash busting: New Pajama Top / Closet Core Ebony

 


I'm in the process of sewing a new pajama set.  The Ebony t-shirt pattern is that comfortable, perfect for sleepwear and has enough ease to wear over a brace.  The only change since the last version is that I shortened the hem two inches.  

There is enough of this medium weight cotton knit fabric to sew a pair of matching pajama bottoms.  It's next up in the sewing queue.  The fabric has been in the stash for the past two years picked up with thoughts of sewing another wrap dress.  And then plans changed.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer, followed by a quick steam press before hitting the cutting table.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hems:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1.7 metres


Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, ruler, Janome sewing machine, threads, Jamone coverstitch machine, seam ripper, Jamone serger, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Thursday 21 March 2024

Stash Busting: Cotton Knit T-Shirt / Closet Core Ebony


This is the second time I pulled out the Closet Core's Ebony pattern.  The first time was to make view A, the dress.  I ended up taking it in to reduce the fullness.  This time, I made the raglan sleeve t-shirt, view C.  I was looking for something that would be loose enough to wear over a brace.  This time all that fullness is just what I am looking for, it's perfect.  There were a few small changes made to the pattern.  I eliminated the hi-lo hem and lengthened the sleeves nine inches.  

The light-weight cotton knit has been in the stash for decades.  It was previously washed and dried before hitting the cutting table.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hem finish:  Coverstitch

Fabric:  1.7 metres


Pattern
:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, iron, ironing board, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome CoverPro, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, sleeve ham, tailor's ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Wednesday 20 March 2024

Scrap busting: Self-Drafted Foam Block Cover

Last month, I tried to sew a foam block cover and it became my first sewing blooper of the year.  This is a correction project.  


The fabric is a 100% cotton left over from face mask sewing days.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  The zipper is a teal colour invisible zipper pulled from the stash.  It is not a perfect match but as an invisible zipper that doesn't matter.  The zipper length was cut down to fit the size of the project.  


Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.4 metres

Foam:  1 block, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Basting tape:  1 metre

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pinking shears, pins, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, iron, ironing board, Janome serger, screwdriver, pin cushion, threads and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Sunday 17 March 2024

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top to go with it.  The pullover top was a fail in fit and even though the skirt is comfortable it didn't see much wear this winter.  This is my attempt to finally complete a set.  

There was about 1.9 metres remaining of the merino wool fabric, not enough for a pullover top but just enough for another cardigan.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 has been a successful project in the past so I figure it could work here as well.  

The fit worked out perfectly.  And I'm thrilled to finally have a matching set.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.9 metres


Pattern
:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, seam ripper and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

March in Review

Happy Easter! Photo from the 2024 Easter Parade in NYC { Photo Credit :  Joanna Moriello, New York Daily News} This is a scene outside St. P...