Refashioning: Tights

So what would you do with a whole bunch of tights that you no longer wear?  

Personally, I wouldn't mind some knee high socks.  

Cut them at the desired length and 

finish the edges with a rolled hem stitch.  And there you have it, new socks.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Linen Dress / OOP Butterick 6784

This project is the story of absolute procraftination.  It started with out-of-print (on the Simplicity website) OOP Butterick 6784, a much adored Katherine Tilton design.  I have to note here that this pattern is still available on Pattern Review and via online sellers.  

I have a few versions of this dress, it's that comfortable and it has pockets.  Back in July of last year, I cut out four versions and by September I managed to sew three of them.  And then this one sat in the pile of cut out projects waiting to be sewn as winter settled onto the landscape.  It wasn't the time for a lovely linen dress.  Then other sewing requests pushed their way to the top of the pile.  Of all of the versions I made this past year, one would think that the orange coloured version would be the one sewn first just because,

This orange linen fabric has been in the stash for so long, I'm tempted to call it vintage linen.  I made another dress out of this fabric close to a decade ago and at that point this fabric had been aging in the stash for many years.  It was back-in-the-day when Fabricland put their linen in the discount section at the end of the summer season and you could pick up a bargain.  Oh, those were the days.  The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the cutting table.      

Let's talk about this pattern.  I do adore a Tilton design, they have been some of my favourite projects and this one is no exception.  Every time I pick up a Tilton pattern from the stash, I'm sad that Butterick and Vogue are no longer carrying their designs.  Out-of-print (on the Simplicity website, currently still available on Pattern Review) Butterick 6784 is one well-drafted pattern and it is a fun make.  Why the procraftination?  Oh yes, the changing seasons.  But I digress.  Only one notable change to the design, the hem length was shorten by two inches once it was pieced together and then a one and a half inch top-stitched hem was sewn.  There was the omission of the small band petal shaped collar pieces.   

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free sewing project.  The fabric came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet, many moons ago.  The sewing pattern appeared in the stash before the elbows up movement.  The scissors are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and were purchased online.  

The 100% cotton threads used in the serger and sewing machine were Gütermann threads from Germany and Coats and Clark quilting cotton threads from Eygpt and many moons ago, were picked up from Fabricland.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Label:  1--"Me Made" label from Kylie and the Machine (KATM)

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020.  Out-of-print from the Simplicity website.  This pattern is still available from Pattern Review.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pen, Post It! notes, measuring tape, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, pin container, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many cups of tea and some procraftination.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Lost and Found: OOP Kwik Sew 3645

This cotton knit slip is made with out-of-print Kwik Sew 3645.  A few years ago, this pattern was in the stash and I made a couple of camisoles.  They didn't work out.  And then I made a couple of cotton slips.  There were no more requests for another slip until a couple of months ago and that is when I discovered the pattern is lost and hidden somewhere in the stash.  

I was able to find another copy of it from Textile Ward.  And it's been over forty days since I ordered the pattern and let's just say, WORSE SERVICE EVER.  There was an initial confirmation that the order was being processed and then nothing.  No notification that the order is on it's way and no response to inquiries.  I don't recommend Textile Ward based on this experience.  

I then found another copy of OOP Kwik Sew 3645 on Ebay and this was the copy that arrived this week and allowed me to get to work on this project.  First, there was some modifications based on the last version I made.  More ease, lengthen the hem and in a knit fabric.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades.  I recently used some of the yardage to test out a top pattern.  It is a light-weight cotton knit.  There are plans to make another slip after I received some constructive feedback on this one.  

As for the pattern, I'm putting this in a safe place.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made product.  I broke the boycott in my search for OOP Kwik Sew 3645, see above to find out how that worked out.  Although, the copy from the Ebay seller was a positive experience.  The fabric came from Fanny Fabrics, a long-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads were all pulled from the stash.  The cotton thread used in the sewing machine is Gutterman and was made in Greece.  The threads used in the serger and coverstitch machines are Surelock brand for Coasts & Clark and were made in India.  The scissors used to cut out the project are from Merchant and Mills, a U.K. company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finishes:  Serged and coverstitched.  

Fabric:  1.05 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645, circa 2012

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, Burda tracing paper, pencil, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome CoverPro 1000CP machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham and few breaks.  

Stand strong, elbows (back) up and keep sewing!

Fabric Focus: Linen

Photo credit:  Baird McNutt Irish Linen.  The Flax Plant.

Linen is a fabric woven from the flax plant and is often used for church linens, household goods and clothing.  It has a long history and it can be argued that it's the oldest fabric.  Archeologists discovered wild flax fragments that had been twisted and dyed in pre-historic cave dwellings in the Caucasus mountains.  These are estimated to be over 30 000 years old.  Linen is mentioned in the bible and is considered the symbol of purity and holiness.  And it's still treasured today.  It's a wonderful fabric to sew.  But as all fabrics, there are pros and cons depending on how you want to use this fabric.    

The Many Positive Aspects of Linen

1.  It's a natural fibre which gives linen inherent hypoallergenic features.  This fabric is a good choice for people with sensitive skin and / or allergies.  Linen is gentle on the skin and it is a breathable fabric.  This breathability allows for proper airflow reducing the accumulation of sweat and bacteria growth.  It also wicks moisture away from the skin aiding in the prevention of bacteria, fungi and dust mites.  Let's just call it a super hero fibre for those of us who are prone to respiratory or skin conditions.  

2.  Just like people, linen improves with age.  The fibres soften over time, maturing into a softer and more comfortable fabric.  This desirable durability makes this a sustainable textile.  Linen is an investment that becomes better over time and eliminates the need for frequent replacements.  Linen is a super hero fibre for the environment as well.  

3.  Let's talk about linen's ability for temperature control and regulation feature.  Most often, people assume that linen is a warm weather textile but linen is suitable for all year use.  The natural fibres provide insulation in cooler weather.  Layering linen provides a comfortable barrier that traps heat without overheating.  In the summer, linen is a good choice for it's breathability.  Linen wicks moisture and allows for airflow.  

4.  Longevity is a something that is well noted with linen, out shining other natural fibres like cotton.  Linen garments can survive frequent washing and wear while keeping their structure.  Household linens can last for decades.  Compared to synthetic fabrics that weaken over time and washing, linen improves with age (see number 2).   It's long lifespan makes linen a cost-effective investment.  

What About the Cons Associated with Linen?

5.  Let's start with the cost.  In the age of inflation, global conflicts, fast-fashion and the race to the bottom, natural fibre fabrics like linen are getting harder to A) find and B) afford.  There seems to be a larger selection of linen blends at the fabric store to reduce costs / maximize profits.  If you're looking for 100% linen, be prepared to pay a premium in today's market.  The durability, breathability and the other positive features does offset the upfront expense over time.  But in today's economic climate the upfront cost may be hard to swallow.  

6.  If wrinkles bother you, maybe this might not be the fabric for you.  Personally, I think it's part of it's charm and beauty.    

7.  Linen demands your time in it's care.  Linen should be washed in cold water with gentle detergents.  Dry your linen with caution because high heat can cause the fibres to shrink.  I suggest hanging to dry.  Avoid chemicals like bleach.  Let's talk about ironing, this need to iron linen if you want to remove the wrinkles can be a real turn off for some.

It really is a wonderful fabric to sew.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash busting: Anneli Tee / Named Clothing Patterns

Now that the toile version of the Anneli Tee has been out for a couple of wears, fabric for a second version made it to the cutting table.  And sewn.  

This is one comfortable tee and it does satisfy my love for a wrap design and plays into the ability of styling it with brooches.  The colour of this tee will be perfect to wear with a vintage lemon print skirt I found many moons ago.  And with a little more ease added at the back, it can be worn comfortably over the back brace if I chose a different separate to wear with it.  

Other than the extra ease, I cover stitched the edged of the neckline and shortened the length by two inches.  Oh and the neckband was stitched with a half inch allowance.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made and tariff free garment.  The pattern is by Named Clothing and was purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric has been in the stash for years and came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project were made in Taiwan and were purchased at Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  Most of the threads were pulled from the stash and purchased from Fabricland many moons ago.  The exception were Mettler threads for the cover stitch machine.  They were made in Europe and purchased at Lilax Studio, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were picked up online.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged, Coverstitched

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Anneli Double Front Dress & Tee by Named Clothing

Label:  1--"Look After Me" label by KATM

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, fabric scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome 1000CP CoverPro machine, Janome 2000D AirThread serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, iron and ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's ham and seam ripper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

I do like soccer and that even spills over into my sewing but not recently even with the World Cup in play.  The last time I made something soccer related was this Euro Cup dress a decade ago.  And a soccer print face mask during the pandemic.  Both pieces of clothing are no longer in rotation.  

This mask was made with the Dhurata Davies pattern.  Highly recommended pattern but hopefully we won't need to sew these again and our pandemic era is behind us all.  

I made this knit dress, a Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print Vogue 9130, in celebration of Portugal's advancement in the 2016 Euro tournament.  But this year, I'm not really into watching the tournament after Ronaldo's surprising visit to the White House, even though there are three co-hosts of this year's tournament.  There is just something about this year's soccer festivities that doesn't excite the sewing mojo of previous tournaments.  

There is still sewing going on.  Last summer, I cut out several versions of another Tilton pattern, OOP Butterick 6784 and I didn't get around to sewing the final version.  An orange linen version before the seasons changed.  I think it's about time I got to work on this latest version.  Besides, 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Scoliosis Awareness Month

June is Scoliosis Awareness Month.  And scoliosis has presented challenges both in my sewing journey and in getting dressed.  Oh, the stories I can tell!  

What is scoliosis?  

Simply put scoliosis is a three dimensional spinal deformity.  A spinal curve (C or S shaped) will only qualify as scoliosis if it measures ten degrees or greater on an X-ray.  It involves not only a curve but also a rotation of the spine.  It is estimated that 2% of the global population have scoliosis.  And there are different types of scoliosis.  Feel free to read more if you're interested.  

Detection

Once upon a time, many decades ago, Canada screened school aged children for scoliosis.  Sadly, that stopped in the 1980s.  But there is an easy detection and it doesn't require the Adams Forward Bend test.  

Clothes don't fit.  They just don't hang evenly.  Of course, RTW clothes don't fit, a curved spine, an uneven shoulder, uneven hips, uneven waist create changes in posture, movement and walking gait.  RTW clothes are designed for the other 98% of the global population.  Our curvy shapes are one of a kind.  Luckily, for there is a company that can create a dress form for our unique curvy shapes.  

What to Wear?

First, wear a green ribbon this month for support and to help spread awareness.  

Second, wear what is comfortable.  Period.  Scoliosis sucks when it comes to finding clothes that fit in the ready-to-wear environment.  Although, I do have a few suggestions.  I've said it before and I'll say it again, Brace Buddies is a wonderful company that makes comfortable t-shirts for wearing under a brace.  My other suggestion is wear natural fibre fabrics.  

Sewing has been a blessing and a challenge.  But let's face it, sewing pattern companies cater to the same 98% of the global population that the RTW market does.  

I have a great deal of gratitude for the designs created by Marcy and kAtheRine Tilton over the years.  They are my most cherished patterns in the stash.  Many of their patterns had an asymmetric design that made me feel comfortable when I wear them.  It is sad that Vogue and Butterick no longer carry their designs.  I'm not sure what is happening over at the Simplicity patterns other than the patterns I used to source at my local fabric outlet is disappearing.  

There are some sewing resources that address adapting sewing patterns for some fitting issues caused by scoliosis.  Most commonly addressed is the uneven shoulder issue but I haven't found any suggestions for fixing patterns to account for uneven hips.  Like I said, sewing for someone with scoliosis is both a blessing and a challenge.  And 100% worth the effort.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.