New Coat: Vogue 9367

Sewing Vogue 9367 was a fun and challenging project.  Some of the challenges were self-imposed such as my fabric and interfacing choices.    

The Pattern

Vogue 9367 is rated as a very easy pattern.  This rating was questioned while working through the project.  Categorized as "the easiest and quickest pattern to sew" it is described as "great for beginners."  That may be if a beginner has some sewing experience sewing a two piece under collar and darts and takes the time to read through the instructions and catch the missing details. Noted on the pattern envelope description is a dropped shoulder with shoulder pads. Not noted in the pattern instructions is any mention of shoulder pads or how to include them within the basted armhole edges (26) prior to sewing in the sleeves (27-29).  This is when a sewing reference article, book, or online video could come in handy.

If you do have some experience under your belt, even if it's just a wee bit and you're looking for a project that doesn't have to worry about fitting issue, this is a good pattern to start with, absolutely.  

The pattern is a well-drafted pattern.  It offers length options along with the back neckline darts and back vent details that reminds me of a vintage 1960s vibe, circa Agent 99 of Get Smart. Très chic! 

I did make some changes to the pattern.  This coat is version C, shortened it to accommodate my petite frame. Of course, not being a Vogue sized model there was also some shortening of the sleeve pattern piece and raising the position of the side pockets. The back and front facing pieces were reshaped to eliminate the extension towards and around the armhole.  The shoulder pads, belt loops and belt were left off the project.  

I also changed the order and some methods of construction.  The sleeves were flat-fitted before sewing the side seams.  I finished the vent, facing and hem with seam binding. The rest of the seams were finished with the serger.

Instead of interfacing both the under collar and main collar pieces with fusible interfacing, I decided to interface the undercollar only.  I chose a horsehair interfacing instead of a fusible, it was stitched in place with my sewing machine.  

The Fabric

The fabric I chose did not come from the recommended "garbadine, poplin, or raincoat fabrics" listed on the pattern envelope.  Instead, the fashion fabric was a medium - heavy weight cotton sateen from the discounted home décor department at the local Fabricland store picked up back-in-the-day. Sorry, it's long gone. Since I didn't spend a lot of $$$ on my fabric, I didn't mind if it didn't come out perfectly so I treated this as a toile fabric with the hopes that it would be wearable. I didn't pretreat the fabric since the pattern was described as "very loose fitting." It did press well with steam and the cotton setting. And if it does shrink in the future, it's currently roomy enough to allow some wiggle room.  I could go down a size especially in the shoulders and armhole area so any shrinkage at this point won't be a concern.  

I would also recommend a denim for this coat.  If you want a lighter weight, maybe a faux denim such as tencel.  The simple design lines and inseam pockets opens this project to many fabric choices.

As previously mentioned, the pattern calls for fusible interfacing but instead I went for a non-fusible horsehair interfacing. There is fusible horsehair interfacing but I just used what was in my stash and I really don't see the convenience of fusible interfacing as justifying the cost.  Fusible horsehair interfacing is pricey.  I'm pleased with the non-fusible for this project.

Cutting the buttonholes would have been a bit of a challenge if it weren't for these tools, 9 mm buttonhole cutter and a small hammer.  Sometimes tools for sewing can be found in tool boxes.

And I really must give a shout-out to the lovely folks at Fabricland who ordered two more packages of these buttons.  Thank you, they were the perfect colour and the help was very much appreciated!

The Stats

Fabric:  3.9 metres

Interfacing:  3.5 metres

Buttons:  11 - 25 mm buttons

Seam binding:  2 packages

Pattern:  Vogue 9367

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Scissors, pins, pin cushions, hand needle, basting thread, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, collar press, clapper, ironing mitt, sleeve roll, tailor's ham, cutting table, sewing machine, serger, threads for the sewing machines, walking foot, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, tweezers, screwdriver, and tea.  

Will you be sewing a raincoat this season?  

Happy Sewing!

Happy National Sewing Machine Day!

How to Celebrate?  

1. Treat your machine to some tender loving care.  Maybe your sewing machine has some lint that could use some clearing?  
2. Spend some time sewing.  
3. Admire the quality of those vintage machines.  They've stood the test of time.  
4. Read about the history of the sewing machine.  
5. Watch the Sewing Machine Orchestra show.    

Happy Sewing!  

Back at it!

I've been on an unintentional sewing break when I just couldn't seem to get my serger working after one of the spools became tangled and broke.  

It took several attempts and days at re-threading to get it back to serging form. You don't realize how much you rely on a piece of equipment until it's out of commission for awhile.  Of course, I could have managed and finished Vogue 9367 without serging the remainder of the seam edges.  The coat is almost finished and I was working on the hems which could have easily been finished with seam binding.  

This dry spell in the sewing room made me wish that there was a place where you could rent a serger.  Lending libraries are popping up across the country and you can stop by and use a sewing machine.  But no serger.  

I'm just glad it's working.  I missed sewing on this little machine.  Now to go back to work on the coat.  Before I head back to work on this project I'm curious.  Has anyone used a lending library for any sewing equipment?  What did you think of the experience?   

Happy Sewing!

Very Easy, My Oh My Oh My!

Vogue patterns defines "Very Easy / Très Facile" as,

The easiest and quickest patterns to sew.  Great for beginners or the experienced sewer with limited time available.  Expect limited construction details, hand sewing and fitting.  Easy to sew fabrics are recommended.  

Hold the presses presser foot!  I'm working on Vogue 9367, a pattern that Vogue has rated "very easy" and I'm going to have to disagree with this on several points.  Yes, it has limited fitting issues to worry about since it's a very loose-fitting jacket / coat pattern.  However, it's not limited on construction details.  Let me count the ways.  

1. There are eleven buttons
2. And eleven buttonholes to sew
3. There is a back vent.  
4. Neckline darts
5. A three piece collar construction
6. Set-in sleeves with an interfaced front and back facing that encompasses the armhole. 
7. Side seam pockets 

That's quite a few construction details for a beginner to handle and all of these details take time even for a more experienced sewer. And I'm saying this because this project has proven itself to be more challenging that I thought. It is certainly taking me longer than I thought it would to move this project off the sewing machine in a completed state.  

Oh and there is something mentioned about "easy to sew fabrics" like raincoat fabrics 😏.  I don't know, maybe I'm making this project more difficult than it needs to be with my choice of non-fusible interfacing, using seam binding to finish off the edges of the vent and only interfacing the undercollar after thinking about it for way too long.  

I'm going to need a quick and easy project after this one, like a dartless, collarless and buttonless t-shirt.  😏

Happy Sewing!

Things That Make You Go, "Hmmm?"

The current project on the sewing table is Vogue 9367, a new spring / fall coat.  

It's coming along nicely until I realized that the under and upper collar pieces call for interfacing.  

Yup, that right both the under and upper collar are calling for interfacing.  In all my years of sewing and I have a few under my belt, I never come across this recommendation.  Could it be a mistake?  The pattern calls for fusible interfacing.  I've decided to go with non-fusible horsehair interfacing that will require pad-stitches. It seem excessive to have two layers of interfacing even if I were using a lighter weight interfacing.  

And to be quite honest I don't quite see the benefit of having both sides of a collar interfaced.  I've even spend time that I should have dedicated to pad-stitching the undercollar to research and haven't come across any reference to doing it this method.  Have you come across any instructions like this?  Perhaps this is a long lost tailor technique that I'm not aware of?  All I know it that it's certainly a part of the instructions that has made me say, "Hmmm?"

Happy Sewing! 

May in Review

Sewing wise, May was all about tops.  

I did end up finishing up a project, the flannel pajama top, I cut out approximately six months ago and then some items that have been on my want-to-make list.  Basic pieces, nothing fancy compared to other sewing blogs highlighting all the prom, formal and wedding wear this month.  My life is not that fancy.  

Me-Made-May 2019

Another year of Me-Made-May activities have come to an end.   I started the month with taking flat-lay photos and reflecting on my fabric choices.  And even though I stopped taking photos half way through, I made a few observations.  

1. Taking me-made photos every day can get quite tiresome.  
2. Especially if there are outfit changes.  
3. Or coffee stains after getting dressed.  
4. I prefer natural fabrics like wool, silk, cotton and linen.  
5. Sometimes man-made fibres enter my wardrobe but they are not the fabrics that I find most comfortable or that they make me feel amazing wearing them.  Sadly, they creep into fabrics as blends.   
6. It didn't feel like I was wearing newer makes.  
7. I then realized that over the past year more than fifty percent of the garments I made were gifted to others.  
8. My sewing behaviour has changed in that I seem to find mending more rewarding than I did in the past. 
9. Say what?  
10. Yup, I said it.  Perhaps, it's the realization that good quality fabrics are becoming harder to come by? 
11. I kept my fabric shopping hobby addiction under control.  
12. Could be that I haven't been able to find natural fibre fabrics that have sparked overwhelming joy?  
13. Or that I can't get over the $50+ / metre price tag of 100% linen.  
14. That's Canadian dollars.  
15. Yikes!   

In the end, Me-Made-May emphasized that I wear me-made items everyday in some form or another and that at least 50% of my clothing choices fall under this category. 

What's Next?  

I'm thinking about stitching up some shirtdresses.  

And this vintage Betty Jackson shirtdress came into the collection as well.  

First, I need to get this project done.  It's all cut out and ready to sew.  

I still haven't got around to sewing a pair of jeans that I've been talking about sewing.  I don't see that happening this month.  Instead, I have plans for more gift sewing and I would really like to sew a sleeve cover for my laptop.  It all seems so ambitious.  Time will tell how much I actually get done.  How about you, any upcoming sewing plans?  

Happy Sewing!  

Finally!

I cut out the pattern for this flannel pajama shirt the same time that I cut out this project. Nearly six months later, I present the remaining piece to this set.  

Just in time for the upcoming air-conditioner season.  Butterick 6296 is a pattern I've sewn before.

  

And it is an exact copy. I made sure to add the deep back neck facing that was featured in a Vogue article by Kathryn Brenne. It's one of my favourite features of this pajama top. That and the plaid wearing moose print. I think this print is just adorable. I couldn't wait to put them on, I'm wearing them now.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres 

Interfacing:  1 metre

Buttons:  4 - 5/8" vintage suit buttons

Pattern:  Butterick 6296

Additional Supplies and Tools:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, pin cushions, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, regular sewing machine foot, sewing machine, threads, screwdriver, seam ripper, and a chai tea latte.  

Happy Sewing!