Sew What You Need June: Pullover Cotton Top / McCall's 7630

 

This is my latest top made with McCall's 7630.  About five years ago I made a couple using this pattern.  This time I made a few changes to fit my current physique.  There is added ease achieved by pinning the center at the top of the front and back pattern pieces and fanning out from the hemline.  There was also four inches added to the length (view B).  The hems are top-stitched with a one inch hem.  That's about it.  

The fabric was a one metre length so there was some creative pattern placement to make it work.  Luckily, it didn't interfere with the grainline placement of the pattern pieces.  I found this 100% cotton in the home décor department at the local Fabricland store a few years ago.  It was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Update

The next morning the top ended up back on the sewing worktable for a patch pocket addition.  Thankfully, there was enough scraps to cut a pocket and facing piece.  This will be perfect for holding my keys.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Interfacing:  0.4 metre

Pattern:  McCall's 7630

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, spring-hinge fabric scissors, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, pencil, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, heating pad and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Sew What You Need June: Pull-on Navy Cotton Sateen Pants / OOP Butterick 6717

For "sew what you need June" another pair of pull-on cotton pants was on top of the list.  And out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6717 is my current go-to pants pattern.  

These are super comfortable and there are no dislikes with this well-drafted pattern.  I did leave off the side pockets since I usually carry a bag.  And I shortened the length three inches, I should have left half inch to give an inch hem.  These have a half inch top-stitched hem.  The left leg is shortened an additional half inch to address one leg being shorter than the other.  Otherwise there were no other adjustments.  

The fabric is a navy cotton sateen that has been in the stash for years.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer followed by a steam pressing.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6--2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metres

Label:  1 - KATM label

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, clapper (used a weight), spring-hinge fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, Janome serger, threads, screwdriver, thread clippers, safety pin and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part IV)

 

I'm not feeling my best and when it comes to picking out something from the closet I'm just looking for loose fitting items.  

It's getting hot  outside with plus thirty temperatures.  If I didn't have a follow-up doctor's appointment regarding my wrist I would stay indoors the whole day.  

Another hot day calls for loose-fitting shorts and a short sleeve t-shirt (RTW) to run out for a physio appointment.  Still not feeling great and after physio and errands it was into a robe and early to bed.  

I did manage to get in a short walk this morning and then the rest of the day was spent still not feeling my best.  Another early-to-bed day and rotating the heat pad from various body parts.  

Don't be fooled with the wool cardigan, it was another hot day that I spent in an air conditioned environment.  

I managed to get a walk-in appointment and yup, still not feeling well.  Thankfully, I was able to fill a new prescription and will soon be on the mend.  And then maybe my me-made picks won't be so boring?  I feel like this little exercise has become Me-Made-Jammies instead of Me-Made-May.  

Most of the week they are calling for rain and thunderstorms so this morning looks like my chance to get some grass cutting done.  RTW jeans and an old me-made t-shirt (not shown) to do yardwork before changing into these me-mades.  

Well, so much for those thunderstorms the weather channels and evening news were predicting.  It was a sunny hot day spent indoor in the air conditioning.  My clothing choices reflect the need for loose-fitting comfortable pieces rather than dressing for the heat.  

May in Review...

Sewing, Alterations and Mending Projects

There was some sewing!  Top L to R:  Cotton pullover top (I AM CLOHETTE by IAMPATTERNS), cotton sweatshirt fleece robe (out-of-print 7018), cotton t-shirt (out-of-print Vogue 9057), cotton / polyester Henley style men's shirt (McCall's 6973), cotton / polyester men's sweatpants (out-of-print Kwik Sew 3663), pink wool pull-on pants (out-of-print Butterick 6717).  

Remember that silk noir top that I altered last month?  It shrank.  ~sigh~  It happened when it accidently ended up in a regular load of laundry instead of the delicates.  It's back on the alteration / mending pile to be cut up and see if I can save some of that beautiful fabric.  

Stash busting

There were 10.4 metres of fabric, 2 metres of elastic, 4 buttons, 1 -- 22" invisible zipper, 5 spools of thread and 2 labels stash busted this month.  As well, one and a half metres of fabric were added and used this month.  

Me-Made-May 

The Me-Made-May challenge was to re-think my me-made items into something more suited to my current stage of life.  Pull-on and easy accessible clothing are my dream pieces to wear.  There wasn't anything Me Made May revealed that I wanted to add to my wardrobe.  But it did reveal that there are items hanging in the wardrobe that shouldn't be there because they don't quite fit my body and current lifestyle.  Items that can be refashioned into something more suitable.  Stay tuned.  

Happy Sewing!   

Pullover Pleated Top: I AM -- CLOHETTE

This top is made with a new pattern from a French pattern company called I AM PATTERNS.  It's a new-to-me pattern company.  This is their CLOHETTE top. 

This is a simple yet well-drafted pattern.  It fits and that is key.  Another version may very well make it to the cutting table.  

Likes:  

1. Body measurements listed on the pattern include height and finished sleeve length.  
2. It is a quick and easy project to sew, this pattern is well suited for a beginner.  
3. The sleeve bands are cut out of knit fabric whereas the body pieces are cut from a woven and this gives it a relaxed t-shirt vibe.  
4. An IAM pattern label is included.   

Dislikes:  

1. This pattern requires tracing as the pattern pieces are overlapped on one sheet of paper.  

The fabrics used are a cotton knit from the stash for the sleeve and neck band.  The lemon print is a cotton stretch fabric recently found in the discounted section at 70% off.  It is the same fabric, although different colour, used for this project a few years ago.  It's a lovely fabric to sew.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch and knit stitch for bands.  Seam allowance of 3/8".  

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Knit  'N Stable tape:  1 metre

Pattern:  I AM -- CLOCHETTE

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, measuring tape, clapper and button tins (used as pattern weights), pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

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Me Made May 2023: From the Me Made Collection (Part III)

Another rainy day calls for flannel and wools.  

Today I tried to wear a favourite cotton sateen skirt, OOP Vogue 1247, but it didn't last as I was bloated and it just felt uncomfortable.  Some clothes I want to wear, but ease and comfort have more importance now-a-days with the unpredictability of my body shape.  Elastic waistbands are my saving clothing feature.  

A new t-shirt added to the me-made selection and collection of comfortable cotton wears.  

A cool start to the day is reflected in my clothing choices.  Perhaps, a pair of pants might have been a better choice.  

The end of the Victoria Long Weekend was a quiet day spent at home cooking meals for the freezer and baking a Lemon Banana bread loaf.  

The first part of the day was spent cutting the grass in jeans and a me-made t-shirt (no shown here).  And then after a mid-day bath it was into a me-made outfit.  

Front Zippered Robe: OOP Simplicity 7018

Out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 7018 was a second hand store find that I couldn't pass up.  I picked it up for under forty-cents!  I don't need a robe, I have a cotton terry one that I am quite happy with and have no intention of replacing anytime soon.  But I do like the idea of loungewear, a housedress if you like, something cozy to wear around the house while doing housework or to wear at the end of the day while I curl up with a chai latte and book.  That's the dream.  

OOP Simplicity 7018 is a well-drafted pattern.  I would certainly recommend this pattern if you come across it.  Being a petite (under five foot), I really like the raglan sleeves over the set-in sleeves with dropped shoulders found in most of the current robe options out there. 

This version is view F with the front zipper.  I borrowed the front patch pockets from the other versions (A, C and D) of the robe and used it here.  Otherwise, it's straight from the envelope.  I didn't shorten the length anywhere.  

The fabric was a remnant piece found in the discounted bin at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many moons ago.  It is a sublime sweatshirt fleece from Katia Fabrics.  It's the last piece of Katia fabric in my fabric stash and I have to say it's been a pleasure to work with these fabrics for this and all the previous projects.  It really is lovely quality fabric.  I would recommend it if you're looking for a quality cotton sweatshirt type fabric.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Tips and Techniques

This robe pattern has several front closure  options.  View F has an invisible zipper and I have a few tips for sewing these types of zippers.  The first would be to use basting tape instead of pins for holding the zipper in place.  I especially like this when there is a seam line that I'm trying to match.  The second is to invest in an invisible zipper foot for your machine.  And I'm not referring to those plastic ones found in craft stores.  I've tried those and it's not worth what you think you will be saving.  For quality workmanship, invest in the best quality tools you can afford.  Remember to search second hand stores, sometimes you can find sewing machine presser feet in the craft / thread sections and you can save there instead of spending on those plastic versions.  One more tip regarding invisible zippers, open and press the zipper teeth flat before attaching it to the fabric piece.  

Pre-treat your fabric.  I can't say this enough.  Of course, the main reason is to pre-shrink your fabric before cutting.  Then there is the added bonus of working with a clean piece of cloth.  Cotton fabrics generally shrink about 5% after washing.  Considering this, wouldn't it be better not to mess with fit and shrinkage after a project is sewn?  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch and 2.6 - 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.8 metres

Label:  1 - KATM care label

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Basting tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 7018

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, spring hinge fabric scissors, wrist brace, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, screwdriver, threads, Janome serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!