Cotton Summer Dress: Butterick 6784

Ever since I made this version of Butterick 6784 last summer, I was smitten over this kAtheRine Tilton design with its Lagenlook vibe.  I longed for a casual cotton version for surviving in the prairie summer heat.  

This can now be checked off the want-to-sew list.  And just in time, as this dress will replace this once go-to summer dress that no longer fits.  But I digress. 

There were some small changes to Butterick 6784.  The right side pocket and petal shaped collar were omitted.  And the hem was shortened two inches.  Otherwise, it's a straight out of the envelope size medium.  The instructions are wonderful.  The pattern is well-drafted and came together without any issues.  Just one warning, many of the pattern pieces are cut one at a time on a single layer of fabric so you'll need space to to lay out the pattern pieces.  

The fabric is a printed cotton with a Moroccan or Portuguese tile vibe I couldn't resist.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 to 3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.2 metres fusible

Knit 'N Stable:  0.1 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784  

Sewing Label:  1 KATM "You Can't Buy This" label

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, additional table legs, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, thread clippers, heat pad for treating back pain and cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Lowering the White Flag: The DVF Reissued 50th Anniversary Wrap Dress / Vogue 2000

 

I have to admit, I do like this DVF wrap dress that Vogue patterns re-issued earlier this year.  I'm just sad that this one doesn't fit me very well.  I made a size 14 and the bust dart sits too high and there is not enough coverage in the front to feel comfortable to wear it out into the public sphere.  I finished it because I found someone who likes it and it will soon be gifted to them.  I'm glad it's going to a good home.  

I did pick up another copy of the pattern, this time in the larger size range.  And I do intend to make another version that I hope I can fix the fitting issues I had with this one.  Last month when I posted about my wrap dress woes, Victoria commented with a link to an article on raising the neckline on a wrap dress.  Thank you!  I'm going to keep these tips in mind for the next one.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Pullover Skirt / OOP Butterick 5790

Do I need another pull-on maxi skirt?  Not really, this project is all about stash busting this small piece of cotton knit fabric with a tried and true pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  I know that I will get lots of wear from this skirt over the summer, it's comfortable and it will go with tops already in rotation.  It's a win.   

This medium weight cotton knit fabric has been in the stash for decades.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hem finish:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clipper, Janome cover stitch machine, iron, ironing board, safety pins and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Wool Winter Coat: OOP Vogue 8934

I know it's officially spring and we didn't even feel like we experienced a winter here this year.  And yet I've been busy sewing a winter coat.  This has actually been months in the making.  This wool coat is made with a favourite Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8934.  

 

I may have mentioned in past versions that this coat is a labour of love as there is a lot of basting and hand-stitching involved in the making of this coat.  There are a total of twenty-four hemline darts, a set of eight on the fashion, lining and underlining fabrics.  It's one of my favourite features that gives this coat it lantern effect.  It has hidden buttons and buttonholes and side pockets.   

Fabrics

The fashion fabric for this coat is a previously owned 100% wool coating from Winnipeg Sews.  It's a gorgeous, thick and warm, wine coloured wool.  And it was a fraction of the cost of the wool blend options found new at the local fabric store.  There is no comparison of this fabric to the coating options found in the fabric stores this past winter.  This fabric is of superior quality and is a gem.  It was a pleasure to sew.  

Care was taken with the placement of the pattern pieces as this wool fabric has a nap.  The other kind of nap may or may not have contributed to the lengthy time it took to complete this sewing project.  But I digress.  

The nap, found in the wool coating fabric, is the texture of a fabric with raised fibers going in one particular direction.  The nap can be easily felt by running your hand over the fabric.  If your hand is running downwards "with the nap" it will feel smooth.  Whereas if you run your hand upwards "against the nap" it will feel rough.  The pattern pieces had to be pinned and cut in the same direction downwards "with the nap."  

The coat is lined with a black cotton back satin and underlined with a wind breaking fleece.  Both of these fabrics were in the stash for many moons. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged lining pieces.  Wool did not require serging.  

Fabrics:  6.7 metres

Buttons:  5--1 inch buttons

Sewing Label:  2--1 "Vogue Patterns Designer Original" and 1 KATM "Bespoke" sewing labels.  

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, threads (coat thread for hand stitching facings and buttons, polyester threads for the serger and cotton thread for the sewing machine), Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, buttonhole foot, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, clapper, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, procrastination and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

March in Review

Happy Easter!

Photo from the 2024 Easter Parade in NYC {Photo Credit:  Joanna Moriello, New York Daily News}

This is a scene outside St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City.  No such festive sights in this part of my world but I do appreciate looking up photos from this annual event.  I hope you are all enjoying a blessed Easter season no matter where you are or how you're celebrating, Happy Easter.  

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Top L to R clockwise:  Feather print cotton knit pajama top (Closet Core / Ebony), feather print cotton knit pajama bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), pink and gray cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), polka dot cotton foam block cover (no pattern used), gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), rusty brown merino wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192).

Sewing t-shirts on a cover stitch machine was a game changer this month at the sewing table.  How did I ever sew without one?  Sewing knits started off as a challenge in the beginning.  Over the years,  Knit 'N Stable tape had been used for sewing hems on knit fabrics.  No need for using that technique anymore.  Oh, the time that I will save!  

Mending and alterations kept me busy again this month.  There was replacing a broken button and repairing a hole on this dress and re-attaching pant hooks on these.  And going through the wardrobe to see what can be edited or transformed into something else.  I tried to make Vogue 2000 in my typical size but it didn't work out for me.  I need to go up a size.  I'm happy to have the first attempt back on the sewing table to finish.  It will be gifted to someone who fits into it.  I just hope they don't mind that I still plan to make my own chambray version down the road.  But first, there's alterations to do to the pattern pieces and a toile to sew before I cut into anymore chambray fabric.  

Stash busted and Stash Additions

Stash busted this month:  

• 13.5 metres fabric (includes the fabric used for the yet-to-be finished Vogue 2000)
• 1.5 metres interfacing
• 1 -- 55 cm invisible zipper
• 1 package of seam binding
• 1 sewing label
• 1 metre elastic
• 1 metre basting tape

Additions to the stash:

• 5 spools of thread
• one second-hand cover stitch 
• 15 metres fabric
• another copy of the re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 2000

Stash busted this year:  

• 35.3 metres fabric
• 4.3 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit-N-Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 4 sewing labels
• 4 buttons
• 3 metres elastic
• 11 spools of thread
• 4.3 metres of basting tape

This year's additions:

• 14 spools of thread
• 7 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

 

Stash busting: Pajama Bottoms / McCall's P349

These are the pajama bottoms I made to go with this t-shirt.  

These pajama bottoms are made with out-of-print (OOP) McCall's P349.  The only change was to shorten the length.  There is an optional decorative tie for the center front waistband.  It is an easy and quick project.  The fabric was pretreated before cutting.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and coversitched

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Pattern:  OOP McCall's P349

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring table, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome cover stitch machine, Janome serger, measuring gauge, tailor's ham, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Cotton Knit Tee / Closet Core Ebony

 

This is the third version of Closet Core's Ebony t-shirt pattern and it's my favourite one.  There were small subtle changes to the hemline that made it so.  I trimmed a small piece from the back after laying the pre-hemmed top on the table and using the front centre length as a guide.  As I tried to press the hem up I noticed that the side seam at the hemline could use a bit of trimming as well.  That eliminated the hi-low hem that I was trying to avoid.  Hi-low hems seem to work on a taller frame than mine.  This version, I did not cut two inches shorter as I did on the second version.  

The sleeves were kept the same length as the first and second versions, lengthened nine inches.  The hems have a one inch allowance and have been finished with a coverstitch machine. 

Ebony is a keeper, right after I transfer the hemline changes to the pattern pieces.  It's well drafted and a wonderful pattern for beginners, highly recommended.  

The fabric is a cotton knit from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It is the same print and fabric used for this dress, just a different colour.  It was pre-treated with a toss in the wash and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Cover Pro, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: New Pajama Top / Closet Core Ebony

 

I'm in the process of sewing a new pajama set.  The Ebony t-shirt pattern is that comfortable, perfect for sleepwear and has enough ease to wear over a brace.  The only change since the last version is that I shortened the hem two inches.  

There is enough of this medium weight cotton knit fabric to sew a pair of matching pajama bottoms.  It's next up in the sewing queue.  The fabric has been in the stash for the past two years picked up with thoughts of sewing another wrap dress.  And then plans changed.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer, followed by a quick steam press before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hems:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, ruler, Janome sewing machine, threads, Jamone coverstitch machine, seam ripper, Jamone serger, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash Busting: Cotton Knit T-Shirt / Closet Core Ebony

This is the second time I pulled out the Closet Core's Ebony pattern.  The first time was to make view A, the dress.  I ended up taking it in to reduce the fullness.  This time, I made the raglan sleeve t-shirt, view C.  I was looking for something that would be loose enough to wear over a brace.  This time all that fullness is just what I am looking for, it's perfect.  There were a few small changes made to the pattern.  I eliminated the hi-lo hem and lengthened the sleeves nine inches.  

The light-weight cotton knit has been in the stash for decades.  It was previously washed and dried before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hem finish:  Coverstitch

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, iron, ironing board, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome CoverPro, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, sleeve ham, tailor's ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Scrap busting: Self-Drafted Foam Block Cover

Last month, I tried to sew a foam block cover and it became my first sewing blooper of the year.  This is a correction project.  

The fabric is a 100% cotton left over from face mask sewing days.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  The zipper is a teal colour invisible zipper pulled from the stash.  It is not a perfect match but as an invisible zipper that doesn't matter.  The zipper length was cut down to fit the size of the project.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.4 metres

Foam:  1 block, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Basting tape:  1 metre

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pinking shears, pins, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, iron, ironing board, Janome serger, screwdriver, pin cushion, threads and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top to go with it.  The pullover top was a fail in fit and even though the skirt is comfortable it didn't see much wear this winter.  This is my attempt to finally complete a set.  

There was about 1.9 metres remaining of the merino wool fabric, not enough for a pullover top but just enough for another cardigan.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 has been a successful project in the past so I figure it could work here as well.  

The fit worked out perfectly.  And I'm thrilled to finally have a matching set.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.9 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, seam ripper and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

It's Time to Raise the White Flag: The DVF Reissued 50th Anniversary Wrap Dress / Vogue 2000

There has been a flurry of wrap dresses appearing on sewing blogs and Instagram posts the last couple of months.  It happened ever since Simplicity announced the re-release of the vintage Diane Von Furstenberg (DVF) Vogue 1549 for the 50th anniversary.  This re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern is now listed as Vogue 2000.  

Most of the early Vogue 2000 wrap dress makers appear to have received complimentary patterns and made their beautiful iconic creations in knit fabrics.  I already have a couple of DVF knit wrap dresses made with vintage Vogue 1610.  I am quite happy with these DVF wrap dresses made with OOP and vintage Vogue 1610.  I'm not sure I want another knit version of a DVF wrap dress.  

I am, however, intrigued by the option of sewing an iconic DVF wrap dress in a woven fabric.  It will certainly be a cooler option to wear in the summertime prairie heat. 

The one thing that stalled this project and jumping on the DVF reissued pattern bandwagon was the cost of ordering it via Simplicity from outside of the United States.  Pattern prices for Canadian residents went up 17% and the international shipping costs--oy!  But then I discovered a copy was available on Amazon, bye-bye twenty U.S. dollar shipping costs, hello Vogue 2000.  Sure, I could have waited until it became available in local stores after the spring release (it is available now).  But Vogue patterns are even a pricey option here north of the Canada / United States border.  Fabricland is the only retailer that carries Vogue patterns and their membership only discount on patterns have decreased to 25% off, while Vogue pattern prices increased to $42.00 Canadian.  Again--oy!  I was really thankful for finding this pattern through another source at a below Canadian and U.S. sewing retailer's listed price plus free shipping.  I would not be celebrating the 50th anniversary and sewing this DVF design otherwise.  

So, now that hunting down and adjusting the pattern is done, it's down to finding a woven fabric for the project.  This also proved to be a challenge, while I was searching through the stash for a suitable fabric I ended up re-organizing the stash.  Ah, sweet, sweet procrastination.  I finally found a soft, light-weight denim coloured Chambray, one of the suggested fabrics listed on the pattern envelope.  

And then the project stalled again after I tried it on mid-completion to check the fit.  Oy!  

The neckline is too low, way too low to feel comfortable while wearing this dress.  After the initial try-on it appears that dress is a must have a camisole or undershirt type of garment and that was not what I was looking for at all.  So much for having a wrap dress in a cooler fabric to wear in the hot prairie summers.  But I continue on despite my disappointment in the low neckline.  

With just the cuffs and hem to finish, I decided to raise the white flag on Vogue 2000.  It has more fit issues than a too-low-for-comfort neckline.   

This project is cut in a size 14, the size I typically cut in Vogue patterns.  I haven't had issues in the past sewing a garment in a size 14, even the vintage Vogue 1610, but this did not feel like it was a size 14 at all.  It is snug.  The bust dart could be lowered an inch.  The opening for the ties found at the side felt like I had reach past the side into the back region.  Yes, I did check to pattern to make sure I didn't cut a smaller size than a fourteen.  As a matter of fact, I added a 1/4" to the side seams.  Hmmm.  

I can't figure it out why I had so many fitting issues other than maybe it's not really meant for a woven fabric.  I would go up a size or two if the pattern had the larger sizes but it is the next size combination and I'm not that keen on spending more coins on this design.  

There are many things that I do love about Vogue 2000.  The interfacing attached to the dress pieces instead of the facing is something I would like to repeat on another project.  I really liked how that came out.  The seam binding technique in the interior seams were sweet.  I didn't get to sewing the French cuffs but I do admire this design feature and even had cuff links picked out.  The fit on the sleeves were nice.  I wish it turned out but I did enjoy the process until I realized it wasn't going to fit.  

I don't want to discourage anyone from sewing Vogue 2000, it just didn't work out for me.  Now to decide if I should finish and donate it or harvest the fabric into another project?  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres

Seam binding:  1 package

Interfacing:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 2000

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, new Universal sewing machine needle, Janome serger, screwdriver, seam ripper, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

The Golden Age of the Dress

 

Once upon a time, I often wore dresses.  A dress was my go-to piece of clothing, even for cycling.  Those days were many moons ago, what feels like a life-time ago.  

In 2023, I only managed to sew myself three dresses as my wardrobe choices shifted in another direction.  Pajama sets, pull-on pants and t-shirts ruled my 2023 wardrobe.  Of the three dresses made last year, one has been donated, another has been worn only once and one is waiting for warmer temperatures.  

And yet, on the sewing table is another dress project.  This project is all about nostalgic sewing and a longing for the golden age of the dress patterns when designers like Teal Traina, Sybil Connolly, Nina Ricci and  Diane Von Furstenberg ruled.  Sure, I do admire and enjoy sewing modern dress patterns, insert any Tilton designer dress here.  

Today, at the sewing table I'm relishing in the vintage sewing techniques and slowing down to hand baste strips of seam binding to the interior pieces on Vogue 2000, the DVF wrap dress reissued pattern.  It has vintage details and sewing techniques unseen in most current sewing patterns that elevated a design into the golden age category.  So today, on National Dress Day, I'm nostalgic for vintage sewing techniques that elevate an everyday dress towards next level special.  

Happy National Dress Day!  

February in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Clockwise top L to R:  Tessuti Apron (free download), two cotton sateen dresses (OOP Simplicity 2372), foam block cover (self-drafted pattern), raw silk dress (OOP Simplicity 2372), foam block cover (self-drafted sewing blooper).

Mending projects kept me busy this month.  There was a small tear and undone stitches around the pocket and elastic openings of my pajama bottoms that needed some attention.  These black wool pants were hanging out in a pile of clothes that didn't fit until I lost some weight, tried them on and welcomed them back into the wardrobe.  They just required a new hook and eye stitched back in place.  This dress has been only worn once so far and ended up having two inches removed from the hem.  I hope to get more wears out of it now, it's a very comfortable dress.  And another fitted sheet had the elastic replaced.  

2024 Challenge

I can not call my pledge to sew #NoMorePolyester a win this month.  I still have quite a bit of thread and zippers that contains polyester.  And these were used in some of my projects.  Fabric wise, it was cotton and silk that ended up on the cutting table.  

Stash busting and Additions

Stash busted this month:

• 8.8 metres of fabric 
• 0.9 metres of interfacing 
• 5 --- 55 cm invisible zipper
• 3.30 metres of basting tape

This month's additions were:  

• 10--20 mm black buttons
• 4--1000 m spools of blue thread
• Hannah Top and Dress pattern (PDF) by DG Patterns and the re-issued DVF wrap dress (Vogue 2000) were added to the pattern stash

So, that means that the total stash busted counts this year are

• 21.8 metres of fabric
• 2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres of trim
• 2.8 metres of interfacing
• 3 sewing labels
• 4 buttons
• 2 metres of elastic
• 8 spools of thread
• 3.3 metres of basting tape
• 5 invisible zippers

And the total additions this year to the stash:  

• 10--20 mm buttons
• 9 spools of thread
• 6 patterns
• 7.8 metres of trim

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Tessuti Apron / Free Downloadable Pattern

It is rare that I pull something from the stash and transform it into a project that I first envisioned for the fabric.  This is such the case.  

The fabric, originally thought of for a dress, turned out to be perfect for this apron project.  It is an 100% cotton canvas from the home décor department.  It was pre-treated with a spin in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

The pattern is a free download from Tessuti Patterns.  It is also available as a hard copy for purchase.  The instructions are well written and photographed.  The project is easy and well suited for a beginner.   

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Label:  1 -- "You Can't Buy This" label from KATM

Pattern:  Tessuti Apron Pattern

Time:  3 hours spent cutting fabric, sewing and pressing; 1 1/2 hours for printing and taping pattern, plus the time spent pre-treating fabric.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, clapper (used as pattern weight), a lot of paper and tape, printer and ink, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, Jean-a-ma-Jig™, threads, thread clippers, tailor's chalk and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: OOP Simplicity 2372

I'm trying hard to use the fabric that I have in my stash.  I guess, I am on a fabric fast along with a #NoMorePolyester journey this year.  

Inflation and the over abundance of man-made fibers found in the aisles of the local fabric stores have taken the joy out of fabric shopping, even if it's only window shopping.  Current selection of natural fiber fabrics are losing their appeal as more are blended with man-made fibers or just don't feel right to the touch.  And to be honest I have some a lot of vintage yardages that I wouldn't never find in the current retail market.  That's how this dress came to be made out of a cotton sateen fabric.  

This was a vintage yardage.  I've been sitting on this fabric for years decades.  I was on the fence over this time as to what I would transform the yardage into.  And I will admit that I completely forgot about it until I started digging through the stash.  

The pattern is the tried and true and out-of-print Simplicity 2372.  I won't repeat myself on how comfortable this dress is, you've heard it all before.  It just feels good to stash bust this beautiful sateen fabric.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  5 metres (made two dresses)

Interfacing:  0.3 metres

Zippers:  2 -- 55 cm recycled invisible zippers

Basting tape:  2.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, ruler, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, tailor's wax, thimble and many breaks and cups of tea. 

Happy Sewing!   

Stash busting: Oops! First Sewing Blooper of 2024 / Self-Drafted Foam Block Cover

 

It is not perfect, but I'm calling it good enough.  I was trying to sew a smaller version of this project.  There was some obvious miscalculations but I didn't catch the error until after it was sewn.  It's good enough since it is a block of foam for my physio.  It doesn't need to be perfect, just functionable.  It's good enough for now.  Maybe one day, I'll try again to achieve a better fit.  

The 100% cotton fabric was a left-over piece from this project.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Project details

Foam:  1 block, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.4 metres

Basting tape:  1 metre

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper (cut to size)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, serrated knife, cutting board, household scissors, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, screwdriver and not enough coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Silk Dress / OOP Simplicity 2372

This fabric has been part of the stash for over thirty years.  It's a vintage fabric from a different era with qualities unmatched in these modern times.  I picked up this beautiful raw silk fabric during the time I was living in Toronto.  It was picked up for a song at a going out of business sale.  Once upon a time, way back in the day, it was an eight metre yardage.  This project was made with the last two metres and some careful and creative pattern placement.  

It is the fabric that makes this project special.  I don't think that my cutting table will see fabric like this again, not at today's prices.  During a recent visit to Fabricland to pick up thread, I walked past a few bolts of raw silk and since this is a rarely seen sight, I had to stop and touch the fabric.  It was much thinner than the vintage raw silk in my stash and it was priced at $80.00 / metre.  What the fudge Fabricland?  The vintage fabric used for this project has a beautiful texture and is more substantial to the touch.  I wouldn't even consider sewing a project with the modern day raw silk currently found in the stores.  

The fabric was previously pretreated and pressed before hitting the cutting table.  

The pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2373, is a tried and trusted pattern around the work table.  There were a few changes to be noted, the center front seam was removed, an invisible zipper was inserted in the center back, the sleeves were lengthened, the hemline was shortened and finished with single fold binding.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.20 metres fusible interfacing

Basting tape:  1.10 metres

Seam binding:  2.5 metres single fold seam binding

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, straight ruler, tailor's chalk, Merchant and Mills fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, tea and a few breaks along the way.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Foam Block Cover

 

It's an odd shaped pillow, not one that I will be using for laying my weary head upon.  This one is for the back of a chair, made for back care.  It's basically two pieces of foam rectangles on top of each other.  

There is a zippered opening for easy access to the foam pieces when the cover requires cleaning.  

The pattern was drawn onto the fabric by outlining the shape of the foam and adding sides and seam allowances.  An invisible zipper was cut down to fit the length of one side.  The 100% cotton home décor fabric was left over from this project.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Project details

Foam:  2 blocks, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.3 metres

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Pattern:  me made

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, threads, Janome serger, thread clipper, screwdriver, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

January in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Top L to R:  beige bamboo, cotton and spandex French terry sweatpants (Vogue 8909), two black cotton pullover tops (OOP Simplicity 2372), cotton flannel pajama top (Butterick 6296), cotton flannel pajama pants (OOP Vogue 9217).  
Bottom row L to R:  cotton floral table runner (no pattern used), merino wool pullover top (Vogue 9330), four cotton reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), merino wool tuque (The Littlest Studio).

The year didn't really start off with any big sewing plans or goals.  Basically, it was just clearing off projects that were previously cut a few months ago while waiting for the serger to be repaired and stash busting some left-over fabrics from previous projects.  

This month's mending and alteration projects focused on bedding and pockets.  There were a couple of fitted sheets that required new elastic in the corners.  The patchwork quilt (I use that term loosely, I'm not a quilter) needed more patching.  And a flat flannel sheet had some fabric added to the length so that it could be securely tucked into place when making the bed.  I do believe there was some shrinkage of the flannel sheet over the years.  This skirt ended up back at the worktable.  This time, it needed to be taken in and re-hemmed after some weight loss.  And a flannel pajama top ended up on the table for the addition of pockets.  A couple of house dresses also ended up on my worktable with a request to add patch pockets.   

2024 Challenge

Inspired by Fashion Revolution's campaign to pledge "to buy #NoMorePolyester in 2024," I decided to try and apply this pledge to my 2024 sewing journey.  

We are living in the age of polyester.  You might think of the nineteen seventies as the golden age of polyester.  But a walk down the fabric or clothing store aisles or online shop would prove otherwise.  

1975 JC Penny catalogue image, the golden age of polyester?  

There is no escaping it!  Or is there?  Can I avoid sewing with polyester for a whole year?  What about thread?  I will admit there is still polyester fabrics and threads lingering in my stash.  And a polyester dress did hit the worktable for the addition of pockets.  

No new projects were sewn with polyester fabric.  Oh wait!  There were those sweatpants that contain 5% spandex.  And spandex is a synthetic material.  Can I call that a win?  No, not yet.  I can't say I managed to 100% avoid polyester, there was also some polyester in some of the serger thread, interfacing, elastic and Knit 'N Stable tape used this month.  This stuff is everywhere!  There are eleven more months to go and try to do better.  In the meantime, what to do with the lingering poly fabric still in the stash?  

Stash busted and Additions

Here are January's stash busted statistics:  

• 13 metres of fabric
• 2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres of trim
• Patterns:  5 TNT and 2 new
• 1.6 metres interfacing
• 3 sewing labels
• 4 buttons
• 2 metres of elastic
• 8 spools of thread

Added to the stash:

• 7.8 metres of cotton trim
• 4 patterns:  Vogue 8909, Merchant and Mills Trapeze dress, OOP Burda Style 7489 and OOP McCall's 7557.
• 5 spools of cotton thread

What's Next?  

There has been some sewing related day-dreaming in the workspace.  

Top Row L to R:  Reversible hooded winter jacket (OOP Vogue 2571), hood (OOP Vogue 2793) and sweatpants (Vogue 8909).  Pullover dress (SD patterns), shirt (Joker by OkiStyle), and the Trapeze dress (Merchant and Mills).  Third row:  pants and shorts (Closet Core pattern), Toaster sweater (Sew House Seven) and pullover top (Burda 7489).

Vogue 8909 sweatpants could be checked off from this wish list but I also wouldn't mind another pair for running errands in.  The Joker shirt pattern might come off the list as it will be too fitted to wear over a brace but it has also been on my sewing bucket list for years.  I made Burda 7489 many moons ago (2011) and I wouldn't mind re-visiting this pattern after finding another copy on eBay.  

Before I can get to this wish-list, I have other projects for other people to work on.  I guess we'll see what next month has in store.   

Happy Sewing!