Wool Pull-over Sweater: Vogue 9330

A few More than a few months ago, I made this skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pull-over sweater.  Let's just say this has been a slow process to complete this project.  

The Pattern

Vogue 9330 is a [v]ery loose-fitting pullover top has neckline variations and sleeve in three pieces.  

There are several reviews recommending going down a size on this pattern because of what some have describes as "very oversized".  There are a couple of makes where the undersleeve and side pieces have been omitted for a more fitted look.    

I didn't find this to be the case.  I have hips.  What I don't have is a big bust.  And I did find that it is very oversized in the bust area.  I did cut a size large based on my hip measurements and could have easily gone down a size or two in the bust, shoulder and sleeve regions.  So, there was some tweaking going on during the sewing and trying on process.  

Quite a bit was cut off (stitching was done on the chalk markings) from the sleeve and tapered towards the waistline on both underarm and side seams.  This gave me a fit that I was more comfortable with and it did not interfere with the sleeve darts that I quite like.  There is a generous amount of ease at the hemline and that is exactly what I was hoping for with this loose-fitting top.  Just beware of the generous amount of ease throughout the pattern pieces.  

Sewing Techniques

The pattern instructions call for a double stitch at the seams.  I did not use this technique and instead sewed the top with the knit stitch on my Janome sewing machine.  It is often referred to the lightning bolt stitch.  

Instead of hand stitching the hems, I top-stitched them using Knit 'N Stable tape before stitching them in place.  I wasn't all that please with how the hem finish came out on the sleeves.  If I were to sew this again, after adjusting the undersleeve pattern piece, I would make a facing and then top-stitch.  

The Fabric

The fabric is a medium-heavier weight merino wool from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric store.  They do ship and if you are looking for fabric like this, the last time I was there, they did have other colours (teal, gray, and black) as well.  

The fabric was pre-treated before hitting the cutting table and it handles the wool setting on the iron quite well.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit stitch (2.8 straight stitch for the darts)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2 metres

Thread:  8 spools of thread 

Pattern:  Vogue 9330

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, tweezers, Janome serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, tea and months of delays.    

Happy Sewing!