Book Review

How to Sew Clothes:  Learn with Intuitive, Super-Hackable Patterns

by Amelia Greenhall and Amy Bornman

ISBN:  978-1-4197-6202-4

Published by Abrams, 2023

Canadian price $50.00

208 pages.  

This is a book that I spotted in the book store and its the quilted jacket on the front that actually caught my interest.  In my sewing dreams, I would like to sew a quilted jacket.  In reality, I couldn't bring myself to cut a quilt.  But I digress.   

The hefty price tag for simple patterns lead me to the library to check out the book further.  I was surprised to find this is more than simple patterns.  

This is a wonderful book for encouraging one to start sewing regardless of their sewing knowledge and skill.  Absolutely believe this to be a treasure for those starting out on a sewing journey and wanting to build up their confidence along the way.  Greenhall and Bornman offer practical advice for sourcing materials and making the basic patterns into your own style.  

The patterns included in the back of the book are simple, boxy shaped clothes making them forgiving in terms of fitting issues.  I did enjoy reading the well thought out advice and options provided in the book.  This book and along with the patterns are geared to the beginner.  No pants pattern found in the offerings but there is a section that suggests some pants styles to attempt on your own.  There are lots of photographs and illustrations to help encourage creativity.  I wouldn't add it to my personal sewing library just because I have enough books on this hobby.  But I wouldn't discourage anyone from picking it up and checking it out.  

Stand strong, elbows up, support local and keep sewing.  

Book Review: Sharp Notions, Essays From the Stitching Life

Sharp Notions:  Essays From the Stitching Life

Edited by Marita Dachsel and Nancy Lee

ISBN:  978-1-551552-925-7

Published by Arsenal Pulp Press 2023 

Canadian price $32.95

I discovered this book after reading about it on Melanie's blog post.  It sounded like something I would enjoy and I rushed to see if my local library carried a copy.  Much to my surprise, it was on the library shelf, ready to be snatched up!  Usually, Melanie's recommendations are not found in our local libraries and if on those rare occasions they are listed, there is a wait list.  So this was a real treat that I was able to pick it up right away.   What a wonderful treat to help celebrate National Library Lover's Month and I Love to Read Month!  After reading the beautifully written introduction by the editors, I was even more excited to dive into the essays.   

The essays were mostly about other textile arts than the ones I enjoy but there was a deeper connection and relatability to these often very personal stories woven into this collection.  These are deeply personal essays of loss, grief, longing and celebration.  Many of the essays refer to the isolation of the pandemic eased through a crafting life.  

I can not pick a favourite essay from this collection.  All of them are rich in texture, meaning and relatable as you are moved to journey through the words on page.  All I can tell you is that I highly recommend these essays.  What a wonderful read!  You just might want to have a box a tissues near by for some of them.  

Stand strong and keep sewing!  

January in Review

After a couple of months away from the sewing machine, I found my way back after tackling some repair projects.  

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Undershirt to wear with a back brace (OOP Vogue 9057).

I managed to make one top this month.  I hope to make a few more exactly like this one.  Otherwise, it was mending and repair work.  

The sagging bottom was repaired on this armchair

The biggest project this month was a saggy bottom upholstery repair.  This was a new-to-me project and one I put off for some time.  It was sourcing the materials that presented the biggest challenge.  

One of the items pulled from the never-ending mending pile.

  In Other Creative News

  International Sweatpants Day was celebrated on the twenty-first of this month.  There was no sweatpants sewing this year to mark occasion.  Instead, I wore my favourite comfy sweatpants made with Vogue 8909.  This is a pattern that I would highly recommend if your looking to sew a pair of sweatpants with a relaxed fit.  There is a desire to draft and sew a dropped crotch version of sweatpants one of these days if I can find the time.  

   January also marked National Hobby Month.  Even though there wasn't much garment sewing done this month, I did partake in some other hobbies.  I just started reading Sharp Notions this week after reading Melanie's review of the book.  I was able to find a copy of this book at the local library.  A few pages into this read and I'm hooked.  After reading Carol Off's At A Loss For Words (highly recommended if you're into politics and culture), Sharp Notions is a welcome read while I try to tune out the news and all the chaos from south of the border.  

    When I am cheating on my sewing hobby, I'm usually spending time in the kitchen.  Who knew that it's so easy to make sun-dried tomatoes at home?  Until recently, I was not aware of this fact.  If I'm lucky enough to spot a jar of sun-dried tomatoes on a grocery shelf, it usually stays there based on food inflation.  I made this jar of sun-dried tomatoes in the oven and it worked out great.  And I was trying to make a healthier and high fiber vegetarian calzone that took me on another kitchen adventure.  Spinach calzone = yes.  Zuchinni in calzone = nope.  There was some experimentation with using more whole wheat flour in favourite recipes.  There is definitely a learning curve involved in this one.  

That about sums up all the creativity I mustered up this month.  I feel like I dabbled in a little bit of this and a little bit of that.  And that was good enough.  I will just leave with a few stash-busting stats.  

Stash-busting

I used 1.4 metres of yellow French terry fabric and finished three 1,500 metres spools of yellow serger thread.  One previously used sewing pattern (OOP Vogue 9057) was used this month.  

The upholstery project required a run to the fabric store for supplies.  Added and used were 1.4 metres of outdoor upholstery fabric and an upholstery staple gun.  

Happy Sewing and National Hobby Month!  

Book Review: Worn

Worn:  A People's History of Clothing

Author:  Sofi Thanhauser

ISBN:  978-1-5247-4839-5

Publisher:  Pantheon Books, New York

Published:  2022

Price:  $40.00 (Canadian) / $30 (U.S.)

In slightly over three hundred pages, Sofi Thanhauser takes the reader on an expansive journey around the world with an historic lens.  She examines the fibers and politics involved in dressing ourselves and the clothing made and worn.   

The book is broken into five sections; Linen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics and Wool.  Each section delves into a rich and complex history of each fiber that examines the road and path that have lead textiles workers to be exploited and the road back to rediscovery of ethical methods of making and creating what we wear.  It is a book examining the dark history of clothing and hope for a better future.  At some points, it was difficult to read through some sections after reading Fake Silk.  But it is worth the time investment for the wealth of knowledge that is shared in these pages.  Worn is a highly recommended book if your interested in textiles and how the clothing industry as changed.    

Happy Sewing!  

February in Review

Sewing, Alterations, and Mending Projects

This month it was all about survival sewing.  It was cold, brutally cold, at some points.  There were no thoughts of floral spring dresses or spring sewing what-so-ever.  February was all about thoughts of sweatshirts, sweaters, tea and avoiding the brutally cold elements.  Trying to stay warm was reflected in my sewing and planning when I came up with two boiled wool sweatshirts.  And then throw into the mix feeling under the weather.  It didn't add to much motivation to get a lot of sewing done.  

There was decluttering attempted which lead to some mending and alterations.  Saved from the donation pile this month was a previously made wrap dress, changed into a cardigan and later gifted.  And a ready-to-wear (RTW) cotton knit dress that was too snug to wear out in the public sphere until extra ease was added at the side seams with godets cut out with some left-over denim.  

Stash Busting

Only 2.8 metres of fabric were stash busted this month.  

I did reorganize the fabric stash binder and spent some time considering another pair of patchwork pajama bottoms, this time made with scraps of flannel.  This month there was more time playing around with ideas procrastination than actually sewing.  

February was I Love to Read & Black History Month 

Would you believe that I managed to whip through a book this month?  I couldn't put it down although the first part of the novel was intense.  

Before I came across this book at the bookstore, I never heard the name Ann Lowe, little alone possessed any knowledge that she was the designer behind Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress.  By Her Own Design is historical fiction novel based on a true story and I highly recommend it.  Piper Huguley examines the life of an American fashion designer who's work was admired by many including fashion icons Christian Dior and Edith Head.  The book lead me to some internet research into what parts are fictional and which parts hold a bit of truth and it was a fascinating detour while reading this novel.  Highly recommend reading the author's notes at the end of the book which answered a lot of questions I had along the way.   I was grateful to discover the insight into Huguley's research and fictionalized aspects of the novel.  It's a beautiful novel.  You'll need a tissue by the time you reach the end.  

Book Review: By Her Own Design

 

By Her Own Design:  A Novel of Ann Lowe, Fashion Designer to the Social Register

Author:  Piper Huguley

ISBN:  978-0-06-06-305974-0

Publisher:  HarperCollins Publishers

Price:  Paperback (USD) 16.99, (Cdn) $21.00

Piper Huguley's By Her Own Design is a historical fiction novel.  However, the main character, Ann Lowe, is not a fictional character.  This novel is based on true story of an American fashion designer with epic talent.  And sadly, the fashion industry set in the early twentieth century often discouraged, exploited and hid her talent because of her race rather than celebrating her talent.  

Her talent was recognized by those who wanted to exploit her gifts starting with Lee Cole, her first husband.  A horrible character who manipulated her into marriage while she was still a child to use her as free labour in his tailoring business.  The novel introduces us to this horrible character early in the novel and there are graphic scenes in the first part that were intense and were hard to get through.  Lowe's story is a story of survival through constant tragedies as she struggled throughout her life for the recognition of her worth as a person, designer and artist.   And she did it with incredible strength, faith in God and grace.  

I was intrigued by the book cover and the assumption that the novel would be rich in descriptive sewing details or description of the fabrics that would invoke textures and drape.  The only sliver of pleasure reading about fabric was how polyester was viewed cheaply.  This is a book about struggles, racism, jealousy, revenge and rising above it all.  In three hundred sixty-seven pages, Huguley takes the reader through an epic journey that spans decades recounted not chronologically, rather reflected upon intentionally.  

It wasn't a book that I expected to read but it is one that I am glad I read, especially after working through the first part of the book.  I learned about a fashion designer I had no knowledge of even though she has been featured in exhibitions and Vogue articles.  Until this literary journey, I was not aware of the story behind Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress, one of many that Lowe created over her career.  I highly recommend this book.  

Book Review: Sewing Knits

Sewing Knits from Fit to Finish:  Proven Methods for Conventional Machine and Seeger by Linda Lee

ISBN:  978-1-58923-938-8

Publisher:  Creative Publishing international, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 2018

Canadian price:  $32.99

Photo source

This is a book I wish I came across when I started sewing with knits.  Let's just say there were a few disasters in my sewing closet when I first starting sewing knits.  Oh heck, who am I kidding?  There was a sewing blooper with a knit fabric that happened yesterday.  But I digress...

Linda Lee owned a retail fabric store back in the 1980s and this extensive knowledge of fabrics comes through in the pages of her book.  Of course, fabrics have evolved since the eighties and she explores more modern knits and the properties of modal and lyocell knits.  Fabrics that I have limited experience with, so I appreciate her insight shared in this book.   She delves into the properties of different types of knit fabrics along with suggested garment types that would be appropriate.  

The best section of the book is creating a personalized fit and it is a section that I would not recommend skimming over.  This section alone makes this book worth the financial and reading time investment.  This book is so much more as she explores different types of seam, hems and techniques. 

Even if you have mastered sewing knits, I would still recommend this book.  I would most certainly recommend this for a beginner.  Lee's instructions are clearly written and her guidance will put to rest any apprehension you may have about sewing knit fabrics, lingerie or swimwear.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Book Review: Fake Silk

Fake Silk:  The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon

Author:  Paul David Blanc, M.D.

ISBN:  978-0-300-20466-7

Publisher:  Yale University Press, 2016

Hardcopy price:  $40.00 Cdn

Fake Silk is a well-researched, detailed and deeply dark look at the profitable production of viscose rayon at the expense of workplace safety, human rights and medical observations.  It is a roadmap of political maneuvering and cover-ups in order hide the horrific history of cellulose-derived viscose to the current "green-washing" it as an eco-friendly product.  

This is not an easy or entertaining read.  It is an important read for anyone interested in the social, human and environmental impact of the textile industry.  

Blanc's research is not limited to viscose rayon, he also delves into the production and marketing of Modal and Lyocell (Tencel) as eco-friendly by avoiding at all costs (human and monetary) the word "synthetic" in its marketing campaign.  These fabrics may be free of carbon disulfide but it is not free of a chemically intensive process as Blanc points out.  Modern marketing campaigns are designed to maintain a "consumer blind spot that keeps the wounded worker out of sight" is the same old game that had been played for over a century and allows this hazardous manufacturing to continue and expand globally.  

Yes, many parts of this book are dense in the examination of the history of viscose but it's worth the work and time investment to see how this plays out in our present day and the key players in this story.  

In Sewing News Today...

Is mending having a moment right now?  

These were some of the titles on display at the local bookstore's sewing section.  It is certainly a reflection of the times.  Did you notice the title on the left?  Yup, a sewing book on sewing face masks, scrub caps and other medical devices.  I don't know about you but I'm so over sewing face masks, etc.  I certainly don't want a sewing book dedicated to the topic.  

Before this (pre-pandemic) the shelves were packed with beginner level books.  Even though most of my sewing lately has been with beginner worthy patterns, I'm way past the beginner level.  I'm longing for something with more substance to motivate my creative thoughts.  A book of by-gone days with delicious techniques for fancy bound buttonholes circa 1930s and 1940s.  Ah, that would be a book I could lose myself in.  But not really relatable to what is gracing the work table lately.  

I am currently working on a denim jean jacket.  No fancy bound buttonholes in this project.  Even though it is an item that I could pick up easily at any clothing store it appears that they are all mixed with man-made fibres.  Seriously, every jean style jacket I'm checked the label has polyester in fabric!  Is it really denim if there is polyester in there?  Apparently so.  Even though some are singing the praises for polyester denim, I'm not a fan.  No thank you.  I want my denim jacket to be made with 100% cotton denim.  Call me old fashion if you must, but making things the way I want them is one of the reasons I sew.  Thankfully, I have a collection of 100% cotton denim in the stash since I've been noticing bolts of "denim" labelled with "unknown fibre content" at the fabric store shelves.  

Well, I should get back to work on this project if I want to get some wear out of it before the snow falls all the leaves change colours and fall.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

New Flannel Pajama Set: Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217

Continuing on the theme of mending and practical sewing, it has become apparent that I will soon need to repair and replace some pieces.  My current favourite flannel pajama set is starting to fall apart.  The fabric is tearing at stress points near the pockets and a big hole is found in the waistband on the pajama bottoms.   I'm going to mend them, of course, and try to extend the life of them as long as I can.  But I think it's time to consider a back-up pair of flannel sleepwear before winter arrives.  

The pajama set is created with my go-to patterns, Butterick 6296 for the top and out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  For the top, I omitted the chest pocket, piping and shortened the sleeve length.  And I cut out an extended back facing.  And I added an additional button to the four suggested on the pattern.  The pants were lengthened and the curved hemline was straightened along with the additional ease added to the sides.  

I almost switched pajama top patterns to OOP McCall's 3445 when I couldn't find the pattern pieces in the proper pattern envelope.  I found the missing pattern pieces in the Vogue pattern while doing a mad search of the sewing space.  It made me realize how much I would miss this pattern if I truly lost any of the pieces.  It really is a keeper.  

Before cutting into the flannel, the fabric was pre-treated to prevent any post-sewing shrinkage.  A tumble through the wash cycle, some time in the dryer, followed by a steam pressing at the ironing board.   

I picked up this flannel at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics and I can say that it doesn't feel anywhere near as strong as the flannel pajamas they will be replacing.  I feel a connection to the grandmother in Gabrielle Roy's novel The Road Past Altamont when I think this about the cloth I'm sewing.  It's the fun colourful print, not the strength of the flannel that seduced me in choosing this flannel.  

Nothing difficult about sewing this project.  It's something that would be a great beginner project because both patterns are well-drafted and come together without any problems.  The instructions in these patterns are well written and illustrated.  

The buttons and the one inch wide elastic are recycled from other garments.  Oh goodness, I really do feel like that grandma character in Roy's novel!  It must be a Canadian prairie gal thing.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finishes:  Interior seams are finished on the serger.  Hems were machine top-stitched in place.  

Fabric:  5.2 metres

Interfacing:  1 metre (fusible)

Buttons:  5 recycled buttons

Elastic:   0.8 metres

Patterns:  Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, water, clapper, hand sewing needle, tweezers, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, regular foot, serger, threads for the machines and hand stitching, hand sewing needle, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, safety pins and coffee.    

Happy Sewing!  

Top 5 Highlights

 

Top 5 Non-Sewing Highlights: Usually we suggest you might talk about vacations or adventures, but this year more than most, your highlights might be small pleasures – learning to bake, nature walks, or just that fact that you were out of bed and clothes some days. Victories look different to everyone!

You know, recently a very wise grade 6 student said, "this year has been really sucky." That very wise student is right, but there are some positive things that we can highlight.  

The news of the election win for President-elect Joe Biden and Vice-President-elect Kamala Harris was welcome news on this corner of my world.

So was news on the development of the COVID-19 vaccine, the approval by Health Canada and the fact that it's starting to be administered to health care workers and the elderly around the world as we still struggle to control the spread of the virus. Small victory but an important one.  

After nearly twenty years of trying out countless recipes for Amaretti cookies I discovered the little secret of making ones that are not flat as crepes.  

This year I continued to read books and the life stories told by Immaculee Ilibagiza. These books continued to touch me in a profound way. It brought me joy to share these with others in my life who were willing to read these stories.  

Even though, 2020 has been kind of "sucky" for many reasons, Immaculee Ilibagiza books and others in my life have been a reminder that even though there has been great suffering this year for many people, if we look in the right places we can find great joy.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Book Review: Indigo

Indigo:  In Search of the Colo[u]r that Seduced the World

Author:  Catherine E. McKinley

ISBN:  978-1-60819-505-3  

Publisher:  Bloomsbury, 2011

US price:  $27.00 (Hardcopy)

Okay, there are some things that really I didn't like about this book and then there were things that I did.

First, I don't know how anyone can say that this has anything to do with "history" unless they are talking about McKinley's personal history.  And in that case we should just call this book what it really is, McKinley's autobiographical journey.

And historically, there are some questionable references in this book that illustrates what appears to be poor research or bad editing. I'm not quite sure.  

It is said that no indigo box was dispatched to England without being smeared in human blood, and resistance to that tyranny sparked a two-year peasant revolt -- the Indigo Revolt of 1859 -- that Gandhi joined as his first civil action.  

Okay, Gandhi was not even born when the Indigo Revolt of 1859 occurred.  Gandhi was born on October 2, 1869.  Could McKinley be referring to the Indigo Rebellion that happened in the next century?  All I do know is that from the early pages of this book I was distracted by words that didn't make sense.  

By the eve of the American Revolution, when cubes of indigo replaced paper currency, South Carolina planter were exporting 1.1 million pounds of indigo to Europe -- nearly $30 million today.  

The war would mark the beginning of the weakening of American indigo profits, also hastened by the invention of the cotton gin in 1974.  

Sigh.  Yup, 1974 is found in the pages of my book.  Needless to say, any enthusiasm that I initially had when I first picked up this book diminished quite quickly. Until I reached page forty-one,

When you have a cloth box, it shows you are mature.  Every respectable woman has cloth.  Plenty of cloth!  For Ghana women, it is the most important thing after having children.  Cloth is more than our bank accounts and our insurance.  Even if you don't own land, you own cloth.  You could say it is like a European lady's silverware!  The price of fine cloth never decreases, while our money, its value keeps on changing.  If you have three hundred pieces of good cloth, like a real madame, well then you have something!  

The story of another woman's fabric stash offered a reason to continue.  But I wasn't rewarded in the following pages.  The beautiful indigo book cover drew me into a book I really wanted to enjoy but the pages within didn't offer the same enticement or deliver a satisfying read.  I could have spent my time sewing or at least admiring my own cloth box(es).  

Happy Sewing!  

Book Review

-

My Journey:  Donna Karan

Author(s):  Donna Karan with Kathleen Boyes

ISBN:  978-1-101-88349-5

Publisher:  Ballantine Books, 2015

Canadian price:  $39.00 (Hardcopy)

My Journey has been on my want-to-read list for quite some time. But since it's release several years ago I just haven't made the time to sit down and read it. It just happened to be one of the books that the local library was selling from their collection at a deep discount. It seemed like my last chance to finally read it. The crisp pages and binding that appeared to have never been cracked open made me wonder if it had ever been signed out. It sparked a feeling of sadness bringing me back to when I learned that Vogue Patterns would no longer be carrying Donna Karan and DKNY patterns.

My desire to read this book is attributed to the fact that I've been a huge fan of Donna Karan's designs and have, over the years, sewn many of her Vogue designer patterns.

Out-of-print Vogue 2092, circa 1988. 

This was one of the first Donna Karan patterns that entered my collection.

I wanted so much to enjoy this book as much as I have enjoyed sewing her designs over the years.

OOP Vogue 1262, circa 2011.  Another favourite Donna Karan design.

The book didn't capture the joy that the designs brought to my sewing table. Sure, there were parts that I found interesting and things I learned about Karan's career that I was previously unaware of. I enjoyed reading about Karan's time at Anne Klein in the nineteen seventies and the menswear line and dressing a president. And the concept of seven easy pieces! But there was an underlining sadness that never seemed to escape from it's pages.  

What I didn't enjoy is how the book begins with the dark chapter Born into Fashion. Honestly, if I weren't a fan of her creative work, the start of this book would have been enough of a turn-off to abandon what laid ahead in the pages that follow. Despite the constant celebrity name-dropping peppered throughout the pages (I wasn't impressed), it is a story about a resilient woman who has overcome a great deal in her life. In that, it is a wonderful book. As far as being a reader who enjoyed sewing her designs, it didn't deliver any new inspiration or desire to revisit some of those old Donna Karan patterns. Maybe one day.

OOP Vogue 1175, still to be made one day.

Happy Sewing!  

 

Book Review

Bill Cunningham:  Fashion Climbing A Memoir with Photographs

Penguin Press, New York, 2018

Copyright by The Bill Cunningham Foundation LLC

237 pages

ISNB:  9780525558705 (Hardcopy); 9780525558712 (ebook)

Price:  $36.00 (Cdn)

Bill Cunningham, the famed New York Times cultural anthropologist, is revealed in a fascinating memoir discovered after his passing.  

Bill Cunningham is known to most and portrayed in the 2010 documentary Bill Cunningham New York as the bicycle riding photographer who captured the artistic, political and social commentary presented by New Yorkers through their fashions.  Fashion Climbing is a undated memoir that highlights his young life, influences, love for life and fashion, establishing that serendipity is alive and well.  

"Constant change is the breath of fashion."

~Bill Cunningham~

Fashion Climbing starts out as a memoir of Bill's life as William J., milliner designing under an assumed name as to not embarrass his family who disapproved of his enthusiasm for fashion. It is a epic quest of discovering and appreciating the pure and sheer enjoyment of fashion while being true to oneself.  

Cabbage Rose by William J.  {source}

Chinchilla Pillbox by William J. {source}

Fanciful Feather Hat by William J. {source}

Floral Cocktail Hat by William J. {source}

Silk Chiffon Leaf Hat by William J. {source}

Star Shaped Cocktail Hat by William J. {source}

Taupe Wool Felt Hat by William J. {source}

The Best Feather Hat by William J. {source}

My only disappointment with this memoir is that the photographs of William J's creations found within its pages are all black and white photographs.  I longed for colourful images as Cunningham's writing style is not as fanciful of his millinery creations and written descriptions of materials used were lacking the visual beauty that inspired Bill in his creative process. Thankfully, there are colourful examples of his work that remain from his millinery career.  

March in Review...

Sewing

There really hasn't been much buzz in the sewing room this month. For myself, I've only made two items.  Surprisingly, for me these are made from new-to-me patterns.

There was a vintage slip project gifted but I think I might need to make myself one if I'm ever going to feel comfortable wearing the dress I made. Then again, each time I try it on, I'm more convinced that it's really not my style. Sometimes, I foolishly follow trends that really don't work in the end.  The polar bear print sweatshirt fleece long cardigan was my favourite make this month. It has seen much more wear than the dress.  

Books

This book finally made it into my hot little hands, and could likely be the reason that there wasn't a whole lot of sewing this month.  

Sadly, it's not.  I've hardly cracked this book open. Yet. I hope to get to it shortly.

What's Next?  

There will be some more sewing for others.  A request came this week to make a cork handbag just like the one I made for myself last month. 

And mending.  I really need to tend to that growing mending pile some time soon.  

One last note... 

News reached the sewing community this evening regarding Vatsla who blogged over at Fashion Behind the Seams. Rest in peace and condolences to her family and friends.   

In Sewing News Today...

Did you know that there is a couture method to sewing the yoke on a men's shirt? 

Photograph source:  The Idle Man

It's true. According to the 1978 edition of Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, it doesn't involve top-stitching or the slip-stitch. 

Couture method:  Do not topstitch yoke seamline.  Baste right side of yoke facing to wrong side of shirt fronts at shoulder seam.  Right sides together, match shoulder seams of yoke and shirt front. (Shirt will be between yoke and yoke facing.) Stitch through yoke, shirt front and yoke facing.  Thurn shirt to right side and press. (402)

Goodness! Do I ever love my vintage sewing library resources. I really want to try this on the next men's shirt, along with finishing the seams with French seams. I think that would look smart. I'm not a real fan of the Oxford styling with the flat felt seams and topstitching. It's not that there is anything wrong with it, I just see it everywhere in men's shirts. If I'm going to sew a classic style I prefer to make it stand out a little.  

I wonder if any modern day pattern instructions include this method? I checked the menswear patterns in my collection and they all only allude to the top-stitched method and the same goes for my vintage Vogue Sewing book.  

In other sewing news, I spent some time in the local bookstore that stocks sewing magazines and books. I have to say that I haven't been finding anything that I find inspiring. Is it me, or is there a over abundance of sewing literature geared to beginners or home décor?  

I did find one book that I would like to read but it wasn't a sewing reference book.  

Photograph source:  The NY Times

It has an interesting story as to how it came to be, I'll let you read about it here. First, I have to finish the book currently in my bag, blink. So far, it's a good read.  

Well, my Christmas break is coming to an end and the sewing machine will have a break until the weekend.  Until then, that's all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing! 

Happy Blog-iversary!

Wow, I can't believe that it has been seven years that I've been blogging about my sewing journey. It's been a journey for sure. I have been sewing for longer than I have been blogging but blogging about it has certainly mapped out my growth and changes.   

There has been gift sewing. I've lost count how many of these baby onesies I've made over the years for friends, work colleagues, charities, and family. Sewing from out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 pre-dates this blog.  

There has been a lot of sewing for my love, my dear Mom. This is her wearing what will become her favourite and go-to dress pattern, Simplicity 2372. After a few requested changes to this pattern, it has been remade into countless versions. Mom used to sew our clothes when we were little, and now I have the pleasure to sew her the dresses that she otherwise wouldn't be able to find in the retail landscape.  

My greatest sewing honours would be sewing for my niece and nephews over the years. Left, my little niece is wearing a hat I made for her from OOP McCall's 8548. I made her the matching dress that came with the pattern. It's an adorable pattern, circa 1996, that even has a little boys' outfit as well. If you happen to find a copy of it and have little ones to sew for, I do recommend picking it up.  Right, is the graduation dress, Simplicity 2398, I had the privilege of sewing for my all-grown-up niece. It was truly a labour of love for at the time I was not 100% comfortable with sewing slippery satin fabrics. I was over-the-moon happy to have made this for her special day.  

This young man has been one of my favourite people to sew for over the years. My youngest nephew would make a request and it would fill my heart with so much joy that he would want me to sew for him. It has been many moons since then but it always brings happy memories when I think back to that time. And I have learned a few things along the way.  

1.  Sewing coats is not that hard. Little girls' coat pattern, Vogue 9219.  

2.  A dress is never perfect unless it has pockets. Dress pattern, Simplicity 2372.  

3.  Nothing beats the feeling of lined pockets.  

4.  When you know how to sew and your favourite soccer team makes it to the finals, you can whip up a dress for the occasion. Dress pattern, Vogue 9130.  

5.  Keep learning new skills, you might surprise yourself with what you can pull off.  

6.  Never pass up on a vintage sewing book, they're filled with priceless bits of advice that are often lost in the newer books.  

7.  Reuse and repurpose fabric. You don't have to make a trip to the fabric store, you can have "fabric" hanging around to make into something.  

8.  Learn about fabrics, just because it is the latest trendy fabric doesn't mean that it will be comfortable and suitable. And if it doesn't work out, embrace the lesson, laugh, share, and move on. Dress made by combining Vogue 1312 and Vogue 9060.  

9.  Sew for those who appreciate it, it will bring you both joy. Learn to say no to the others who are out to use you. Your time is valuable. Jacket pattern, OOP Vogue 8916.     

10.  Be mindful, make a difference and always have fun. Top pattern, Vogue 9056.  Pants pattern, OOP Vogue 1325.  Label necklace, no pattern used.  

Happy Sewing!