This glossary is an on-going collection of terms that I have come across in my sewing journey along with some tips and techniques. I hope that you will find these helpful in your own sewing adventures.
AI Fashion Design: Artificial Intelligence (AI) Fashion Design refers to an algorithm that learns about a particular style of fashion design from images and then generates new designs.
Alterations: In sewing, alterations refers to changes being made either to a pattern, project, or garment. There is one book that I highly recommend for pattern alterations that I found to be a valuable resource: Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina.
Armscye: This is a term that refers to the armhole of a garment. Basically, it is the section of the bodice in which the sleeve is attached. This is an excellent article about taking armscye measurements and how a full-bust measurement can affect the measurements of the armscye.
Bar Tack: A bar tack refers to a hand sewing technique used to reinforce points of strain. For example, the top of a skirt slit / pleat or the corners of shirt / pants pockets.
Alterations: In sewing, alterations refers to changes being made either to a pattern, project, or garment. There is one book that I highly recommend for pattern alterations that I found to be a valuable resource: Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina.
Armscye: This is a term that refers to the armhole of a garment. Basically, it is the section of the bodice in which the sleeve is attached. This is an excellent article about taking armscye measurements and how a full-bust measurement can affect the measurements of the armscye.
Bar Tack: A bar tack refers to a hand sewing technique used to reinforce points of strain. For example, the top of a skirt slit / pleat or the corners of shirt / pants pockets.
Basting: Basting is a form of hand-stitching. It is not meant to be permanent. Basting is all about preparation. Some people like to baste their zippers in place beore machine stitching. Basting can also be used to match plaids, attach interfacing, underlining, linings, etc.
To make sure your layers do not shirt it is best to work on a flat surface. When basting near the seam line it is best to sew inside the seam allowance making it easier to remove the basting threads.
For light hand-basting work, usually when I'm basting underlining to my fashion fabric, I would choose a cheaper cotton thread. But remember that this thread breaks easily. It may be good for basting underlining since this basting can be removed later but you might want to use a strong thread for items that are basted for fitting reasons. Silk thread is good for basting fine fabrics such as velvet.
Basting isn't necessarily a straight stitch along the seam line. Sometimes it may be necessary to baste on the diagonal such as when working with fabric that has a pile in order to prevent them from shifting. When basting velvet, I like to use a rayon embroidery thread because it doesn't leave an imprint on the pile.
Basting Tape: Basting tape is a two-sided sticky tape that helps to hold fabric and zippers in place.
I use basting tape whenever I'm sewing an invisible zipper. It is a quick and easy method and the stickiness washes away. Also a handy little item to have if you carry an emergency sewing kit for those hems that might come down.
I've also found it handy for holding ribbons and trims in place instead of pinning. I found that it provided more security and prevented any shifting from occurring.
Bias: Bias refers to the direction of the cloth and how a pattern piece is position and cut from the fabric. The bias of a fabric is found on the diagonal direction. Cutting a garment on the bias of a fabric moulds the fabric to the body unlike straight-grain cut fabric. Pattern pieces are placed at a forty-five degree angle to form the grainline marking on the pattern piece in order to be cut on the bias. Seam edges that are cut on the bias do not have to be finished since these edges do not fray like straight-grain edges.
Bias Tape: Making bias tape is pretty easy to make when you have the right tools. And of course you will want to cut your fabric on the bias. This will prevent the edges from fraying and will give the tape some stretch to handle neckline and armhole curves. The tools you will need are
- Bias tape maker
- Iron
- Bias cut fabric
- A ruler (I prefer to use a clear one)
- Tailor's chalk
I have posted a how-to that you can find here on how I have made bias tape in the past. I frequently make bias tape when I want to match a finished edge with my fashion fabric. Making your own bias tape is another great way to use up those larger pieces of left-over fabric.
BIOTECⓇ: BIOTEC is a registered trademarked bio-nylon fabric that is made from coffee grounds to make coffee oil membrane and castor beans. This lightweight, tear and abrasion resistant fabric has received awards for replacing petroleum-based material and has US and Tiawan patents for it's technology.
BIOTECⓇ: BIOTEC is a registered trademarked bio-nylon fabric that is made from coffee grounds to make coffee oil membrane and castor beans. This lightweight, tear and abrasion resistant fabric has received awards for replacing petroleum-based material and has US and Tiawan patents for it's technology.
Blanket stitch: There are two methods for sewing a blanket stich, by hand or by machine. Typically, sewing a blanket stitch by machine is seen in sewing a pre-fused appliqué in place. Although, it can also be used as a seam finish.
By hand, the blanket stitch is often used as a decorative stitch often seen on blankets and done in wool or embroidery thread.
Bobbin: A bobbin is a part that is inserted in your sewing machine that holds thread that comes from the bottom of the presser foot and plate and meets with the thread located on the upper portion of the sewing machine and threaded through the needle above the plate. Bobbins come in different shapes, sizes and can be made out of metal or plastic depending on the type of sewing machine.
Bobbin thread: Bobbin thread is a fine thread specifically used for machine embroidery. Typically made of polyester, it is strong, light-weight and inexpensive, used to reduce bulk of your embroidery work. It is beneficial for machine embroidery on light-weight fabrics. It is used with your rayon, viscose or metallic embroidery thread on top, reducing bulk and allowing your completed work to be more pliable. It can also be used for basting and eliminates the need to remove the basting stitches afterwards. Since it is a fine light-weight thread, it would be hard to detect through the layers. Bobbin thread comes in two formats, spools to be wound onto a bobbin or it can be purchased in pre-wound disposable bobbins.
Buttonhole cutter: A tool that resembles a chisel used to make a clean cut for the opening of a buttonhole.
Clapper: Also known as a tailor's clapper. It is a shaped piece of wood that is narrower at one end than the opposite end. It is used to produce crisp and flat pressed seams when pressed on top of an area of cloth that has been pressed with a hot iron with steam.
Crochet: Crochet refers to a variety of decorative stitches created by hand using a thread or yarn and a hooked needle. Crocheting a yarn or thread could result in a lace trim or a piece of fabric used to make a variety of pieces from table clothes to garments.
Bobbin: A bobbin is a part that is inserted in your sewing machine that holds thread that comes from the bottom of the presser foot and plate and meets with the thread located on the upper portion of the sewing machine and threaded through the needle above the plate. Bobbins come in different shapes, sizes and can be made out of metal or plastic depending on the type of sewing machine.
Bobbin thread: Bobbin thread is a fine thread specifically used for machine embroidery. Typically made of polyester, it is strong, light-weight and inexpensive, used to reduce bulk of your embroidery work. It is beneficial for machine embroidery on light-weight fabrics. It is used with your rayon, viscose or metallic embroidery thread on top, reducing bulk and allowing your completed work to be more pliable. It can also be used for basting and eliminates the need to remove the basting stitches afterwards. Since it is a fine light-weight thread, it would be hard to detect through the layers. Bobbin thread comes in two formats, spools to be wound onto a bobbin or it can be purchased in pre-wound disposable bobbins.
Buttonhole cutter: A tool that resembles a chisel used to make a clean cut for the opening of a buttonhole.
Clapper: Also known as a tailor's clapper. It is a shaped piece of wood that is narrower at one end than the opposite end. It is used to produce crisp and flat pressed seams when pressed on top of an area of cloth that has been pressed with a hot iron with steam.
Crochet: Crochet refers to a variety of decorative stitches created by hand using a thread or yarn and a hooked needle. Crocheting a yarn or thread could result in a lace trim or a piece of fabric used to make a variety of pieces from table clothes to garments.
Dacron: Dacron is a brand of polyester. It was created by DuPont in the 1950s and was first used in polyester / wool blends suiting fabric. Today you can find it blended in with cotton in RTW clothing.
Dart: A dart is a method of shaping a garment for better fit or decorative purposes. Just like stitches there are a variety of darts. Such as bust, French, waist, elbow, double-pointed, and curves darts.
Diagonal Basting: This was one of the sewing techniques recommended for sewing velvet fabrics and it worked. Diagonal basting is typically a very firm basting used when turning edges of facings, jacket front, collars. It can also be used to hold two pieces of fabric securely together without the fear of it slipping out of place. The diagonal stitches are on the side of the fabric facing you as you stitch. The needle, when taking a stitch, is at right angles to the turned edge of the garment.
E-Textiles: Also referred to as electronic (smart) textiles, these fabrics have the ability to communicate, transform and/or conduct energy. They can be adapted into athletic performance wear to medical textiles that have the ability to release drugs or measure heart rates.
Ease: Ease refers to the amount of movement or space is allowed over the body's measurements. Ease is dependant on the fabric and design of a garment. A knit dress or top may have zero ease where as a kaftan dress would have a generous amount of ease.
Emotionally Intelligent Clothing: Emotionally Intelligent Clothing refers to garments created by combining artificial intelligence (AI) technology with E-textiles to display the wearer's emotions. Central Saint Martins fashion graduate, Beatrice Sangster-Bullers' graduate collection featured this technology.
Face Masks: The hottest accessory trend to emerge from the Covid-19 pandemic of 2020. You can purchase a face mask pattern from on-line sellers or the commercial pattern companies such as Simplicity Patterns 9188. Or you can download a free PDF version as long as you're not stealing the design for profit. Be kind people! There are some out there that are sharing their talents to help save lives. This is not the time to exploit and profit off other's hard work. Okay, jumping off the soap box. May I recommend Dhurta Davies face mask pattern? It involves a bit more work with the darts and taking measurements but the fit is one of the best.
Dart: A dart is a method of shaping a garment for better fit or decorative purposes. Just like stitches there are a variety of darts. Such as bust, French, waist, elbow, double-pointed, and curves darts.
Diagonal Basting: This was one of the sewing techniques recommended for sewing velvet fabrics and it worked. Diagonal basting is typically a very firm basting used when turning edges of facings, jacket front, collars. It can also be used to hold two pieces of fabric securely together without the fear of it slipping out of place. The diagonal stitches are on the side of the fabric facing you as you stitch. The needle, when taking a stitch, is at right angles to the turned edge of the garment.
E-Textiles: Also referred to as electronic (smart) textiles, these fabrics have the ability to communicate, transform and/or conduct energy. They can be adapted into athletic performance wear to medical textiles that have the ability to release drugs or measure heart rates.
Ease: Ease refers to the amount of movement or space is allowed over the body's measurements. Ease is dependant on the fabric and design of a garment. A knit dress or top may have zero ease where as a kaftan dress would have a generous amount of ease.
Emotionally Intelligent Clothing: Emotionally Intelligent Clothing refers to garments created by combining artificial intelligence (AI) technology with E-textiles to display the wearer's emotions. Central Saint Martins fashion graduate, Beatrice Sangster-Bullers' graduate collection featured this technology.
Face Masks: The hottest accessory trend to emerge from the Covid-19 pandemic of 2020. You can purchase a face mask pattern from on-line sellers or the commercial pattern companies such as Simplicity Patterns 9188. Or you can download a free PDF version as long as you're not stealing the design for profit. Be kind people! There are some out there that are sharing their talents to help save lives. This is not the time to exploit and profit off other's hard work. Okay, jumping off the soap box. May I recommend Dhurta Davies face mask pattern? It involves a bit more work with the darts and taking measurements but the fit is one of the best.
Government of Canada health officials recommend that it be at least two layers of tightly woven fabric, either cotton or linen for homemade non-medical face coverings.
Grading: Usually this term refers to grading your seam allowance. This is a technique where you would trim different layers of a seam allowance to a variety of widths in order to reduce bulk and create a smooth transition. This is a good technique to incorporate before pressing and turning over seams of a collar or cuff.
Grading can also be done for changes in sizes. Grading, or the increasing or decreasing of the size of the pattern, is a fundamental process of pattern making that should be part of one's knowledge kit if you're interested in achieving a good fit from your patterns. Grading principles are often applied to foundation pattern pieces and then those are used for more complicated design elements. There are two traditional methods that are often used when grading for changes in sizes. The first method is accomplished by slashing and spreading the pattern.
The other method is by shifting. Today, grading a pattern can also be achieved digitally using computerized pattern drafting software. Pattern grading by hand aren't typically done by home sewists now-a-days. In today's market, sewing patterns come in multi-sized combinations, eliminating the need to grade a pattern for sizing. However, sometimes a size is needed may not be offered by the manufacturer or a vintage pattern only comes in one size. In these situations I found grading knowledge to be a valuable asset. Vintage sewing books often share a wealth of grading information not found online.
Gussets: Gussets are found in clothing to aid in the ease of movement or to reduce stress on tight-fitting designs.
They may be found in the under-arm portion of a garment. A gusset is typically cut on the bias so that there is reduced strain on the fabric. They can also be decorative as when they are found in a clothing design.
Hemline: The hemline refers to the lower edge of a garment whether it's a coat, top, dress or shirt. Hemlines can be finished by a variety of methods and lengths.
Invisible zipper: There is nothing that gives your garment the professional look than a perfectly sewn invisible zipper. My secret (no more) to sewing a neatly hidden invisible zipper is to press open the coil of the zipper before sewing it and prep your fabric edge with the serger and then use basting tape to hold the zipper in place. The most important tool that is required for this techniques would be to use a quality metal invisible zipper foot for your machine. Forget those plastic invisible zipper foots you can find at the fabric store. They're not worth the money you think you will be saving.
Jean-a-ma-Jig: Quilters have been using the Jean-a-ma-Jig for quite some time before I discovered this little tool. It is a small piece of plastic measuring 44 mm deep, 5 cm long and 37 mm wide and it has a cut out portion that is 6 mm wide and about 2.5 cm long. When you approach an intersection in your seam that has bulk, it helps the presser foot to travel over the bulkiness without distorting your stitching or breaking your needle.
Knit: Knit can to refer to a type of fabric that has some stretch or it a method of interlocking loops of yarn by hand with a pair of knitting needles or by using a knitting machine.
Lace: This is a type of fabric or trim that has an open decorative design. Lace can be created by hand knitting or crochet or created by a knitting machine.
Mitred seam: This refers to a seam created at a forty-five degree angle. Mitred refers to having the bulk removed at this corner by having a triangular shape removed from the corner before hemming.
Notches: Notches are a way of marking an edge to make construction of a garment earier. It could be a incision cut into the edge within the seam allowance or it can be an outward triangular shape outside of the seam allowance to indicate where two pieces should meet along a seam.
Oil Cloth: The modern use of this term refers to a vinyl which has been bonded with a flannel cloth or a synthetic non-woven backing. This type of vinyl is used for table clothes and became popular in the mid-1950s.
OOP: This is an acronym used in the sewing community for the phrase out-of-print. It is often used when referring to a sewing pattern that is no longer available from the manufacturer or designer. However, you might be able to find an OOP pattern from an online seller.
Patchwork: The act of sewing different sizes, types, colours or textures of fabric to create a new piece of fabric. Some styles of quilting are considered patchwork. Patchwork can also refer to a method of mending or repairing a garment.
The other method is by shifting. Today, grading a pattern can also be achieved digitally using computerized pattern drafting software. Pattern grading by hand aren't typically done by home sewists now-a-days. In today's market, sewing patterns come in multi-sized combinations, eliminating the need to grade a pattern for sizing. However, sometimes a size is needed may not be offered by the manufacturer or a vintage pattern only comes in one size. In these situations I found grading knowledge to be a valuable asset. Vintage sewing books often share a wealth of grading information not found online.
Gussets: Gussets are found in clothing to aid in the ease of movement or to reduce stress on tight-fitting designs.
They may be found in the under-arm portion of a garment. A gusset is typically cut on the bias so that there is reduced strain on the fabric. They can also be decorative as when they are found in a clothing design.
Hemline: The hemline refers to the lower edge of a garment whether it's a coat, top, dress or shirt. Hemlines can be finished by a variety of methods and lengths.
Invisible zipper: There is nothing that gives your garment the professional look than a perfectly sewn invisible zipper. My secret (no more) to sewing a neatly hidden invisible zipper is to press open the coil of the zipper before sewing it and prep your fabric edge with the serger and then use basting tape to hold the zipper in place. The most important tool that is required for this techniques would be to use a quality metal invisible zipper foot for your machine. Forget those plastic invisible zipper foots you can find at the fabric store. They're not worth the money you think you will be saving.
Jean-a-ma-Jig: Quilters have been using the Jean-a-ma-Jig for quite some time before I discovered this little tool. It is a small piece of plastic measuring 44 mm deep, 5 cm long and 37 mm wide and it has a cut out portion that is 6 mm wide and about 2.5 cm long. When you approach an intersection in your seam that has bulk, it helps the presser foot to travel over the bulkiness without distorting your stitching or breaking your needle.
Knit: Knit can to refer to a type of fabric that has some stretch or it a method of interlocking loops of yarn by hand with a pair of knitting needles or by using a knitting machine.
Lace: This is a type of fabric or trim that has an open decorative design. Lace can be created by hand knitting or crochet or created by a knitting machine.
Mitred seam: This refers to a seam created at a forty-five degree angle. Mitred refers to having the bulk removed at this corner by having a triangular shape removed from the corner before hemming.
Notches: Notches are a way of marking an edge to make construction of a garment earier. It could be a incision cut into the edge within the seam allowance or it can be an outward triangular shape outside of the seam allowance to indicate where two pieces should meet along a seam.
Oil Cloth: The modern use of this term refers to a vinyl which has been bonded with a flannel cloth or a synthetic non-woven backing. This type of vinyl is used for table clothes and became popular in the mid-1950s.
OOP: This is an acronym used in the sewing community for the phrase out-of-print. It is often used when referring to a sewing pattern that is no longer available from the manufacturer or designer. However, you might be able to find an OOP pattern from an online seller.
Patchwork: The act of sewing different sizes, types, colours or textures of fabric to create a new piece of fabric. Some styles of quilting are considered patchwork. Patchwork can also refer to a method of mending or repairing a garment.
Perlon: Perlon is another name for a man-made fiber, a type of nylon known as Nylon 6. It was developed in the 1930s.
Pin tucks: Pin tucks are created by a slender fold of fabric that can stitched all or partially of it's length. Pin tucks are not limited to horizontal or vertical lines, you can be creative with the shape and design pin tucks can create on fabric or design. Fabric can be found already pin tucked or you can create pin tucks to your fabric before cutting out a pattern. There are many commercial sewing patterns that call for pin tucks.
Pin tucks can be easily created with a blind hem presser foot for a consistently slender line maintained while sewing. Or you can pre-press the lines you want to have pin tucked.
If adding pin tucks to a design remember to allow for additional fabric to compensate for the narrower width of the fabric layout that will occur.
Quilt: A quilt is a finished product, similar to a blanket that can be used as bedding or hung on the wall as a piece of art.
Quilting: I am no expert on quilting but here goes, quilting in my limited knowledge of the art form is the process of sewing two or more layers of cloth together to produce a quilted fabric or a quilt.
RTW: This is an acronym for the phrase ready-to-wear. Sometimes, the acronym OTR (off-the-rack) is used to refer to the same as ready-to-wear. It refers to an article of clothing that has been factory-made and sold in a retail shop and in a finished condition. It has been manufactured with the manufacturers' standardized sizing. Not all manufacturers subscribe to a standardized sizing. RTW often needs alterations unless your body fits into the manufacturer's standardized sizes that are offered.
Reinforce: Refers to stitch along a seamline using small stitches. It is often used where pattern pieces are to be pivoted into place or where there may be some strain on a particular part of the garment.
Sewing invisibly: I first came across this term in a vintage pattern, OOP Vogue 1521. It is used when you are interfacing a section that has a foldline, such as an extended facing, folded cuff or waistband. Sewing invisibly means that you will have 1/2" long running stitches on the interfacing that are caught onto the wrong side of your fashion fabric with only the tiniest invisible stitch.
Smart Textiles: See E-Textiles.
Staystitch: This is a technique to prevent an area from stretching. Stitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the seamline within the seam allowance.
Quilt: A quilt is a finished product, similar to a blanket that can be used as bedding or hung on the wall as a piece of art.
Quilting: I am no expert on quilting but here goes, quilting in my limited knowledge of the art form is the process of sewing two or more layers of cloth together to produce a quilted fabric or a quilt.
RTW: This is an acronym for the phrase ready-to-wear. Sometimes, the acronym OTR (off-the-rack) is used to refer to the same as ready-to-wear. It refers to an article of clothing that has been factory-made and sold in a retail shop and in a finished condition. It has been manufactured with the manufacturers' standardized sizing. Not all manufacturers subscribe to a standardized sizing. RTW often needs alterations unless your body fits into the manufacturer's standardized sizes that are offered.
Reinforce: Refers to stitch along a seamline using small stitches. It is often used where pattern pieces are to be pivoted into place or where there may be some strain on a particular part of the garment.
Sewing invisibly: I first came across this term in a vintage pattern, OOP Vogue 1521. It is used when you are interfacing a section that has a foldline, such as an extended facing, folded cuff or waistband. Sewing invisibly means that you will have 1/2" long running stitches on the interfacing that are caught onto the wrong side of your fashion fabric with only the tiniest invisible stitch.
Smart Textiles: See E-Textiles.
Staystitch: This is a technique to prevent an area from stretching. Stitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the seamline within the seam allowance.
Tailor's Chalk: This is a tool used to make temporary markings on fabric and once the markings are no longer needed, they can be either brushed or washed off. The convenient nature of tailor's chalk means that it's best to handle marked fabric with care and to cut and sew shortly there after. I often mark the wrong side of fabric with a large X to easily identify the wrong side of a fabric with similar sides.
Tailor's Tack: This is an old-school method of transferring pattern markings onto your fabric. To create tailor's tacks you will double thread your hand sewing needle and using a basting stitch, create a loose X shape through two peices of fabric, then loosen the two pieces of fabric and cut the loops so that thread markings are left behind in each of the piece of fabric.
Tailor's Tack: This is an old-school method of transferring pattern markings onto your fabric. To create tailor's tacks you will double thread your hand sewing needle and using a basting stitch, create a loose X shape through two peices of fabric, then loosen the two pieces of fabric and cut the loops so that thread markings are left behind in each of the piece of fabric.
Tailor's Wax: Used to strengthen thread before hand stitching, helps with minimizing tangling while hand stitching.
Thimble: A protective cap for one's finger tip used during hand-stitching. Thimbles can be made out of leather, metal or hard plastic.
Toile: A toile is a mock up version of a finished garment made in cheap fabric in order to test and perfect a garment's design. Also referred to as a muslin.
Topstitch: An outside stitch, typically 1/4" (6 mm) from edge, seam or previous stitching, using the presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions.
Thimble: A protective cap for one's finger tip used during hand-stitching. Thimbles can be made out of leather, metal or hard plastic.
Toile: A toile is a mock up version of a finished garment made in cheap fabric in order to test and perfect a garment's design. Also referred to as a muslin.
Topstitch: An outside stitch, typically 1/4" (6 mm) from edge, seam or previous stitching, using the presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions.
Tulle: Tulle is a light-weight, very fine and stiff type of netting that is has hexagonal shaped openings throughout. It is often used in special occasion clothing and ballet costumes.
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