Thursday, 10 July 2025

Raw Silk Sweater: The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

While waiting for out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 to arrive, I have kept myself busy by revisiting The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern since the toile turned out well.  Here is my silk version.  


There is something special involved with sewing with a natural fibre fabric.  As well as wearing it.  Sadly, the fabric stores and even the stores selling RTW clothing are filled with man-made fibre fabrics.  It's a rare treat to sew and wear raw silk.  Locally, Fabricland currently sells raw silk but at $80 (Cdn) / metre, it's a luxury fabric that is not in today's budget.  This is a re-sell piece pulled from the stash. 

This project was sewn with the same modifications made with the toile version.  The sleeve length was shortened three inches.  The shoulder bands and armhole seams are sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams were sewing with the recommended 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.  


Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made project that wasn't hit by tariffs.  Everything used in the making of this top were from non-American retailers and purchased prior to the economic war on Canada and insulting annexation rhetoric.  

The medium weight silk fabric was a previously owned piece found at Winnipeg Sews.  Winnipeg Sews sadly closed down six months ago.  Some how it seems longer than six months but I digress.  The rib knit came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  


After stitching the lower band, I noticed a tiny hole in the back.  Of course, it was on the right side of the garment.  Drats!  I didn't notice this flaw when cutting out the pattern piece and wonder if it became damaged during the sewing process.  Oh well, it won't be noticed when worn, just a quick couple of hand stitches and the hole was closed.  

The sewing pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish company.  The Coats and Clark threads used on the sewing machine and serger were from the stash.  


Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabrics:  2.5 metres of silk and 0.6 metres of rib knit


Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater S:202

Label:  "Bespoke" KATM sewing label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, assorted objects used as pattern weights, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, ruler, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, new sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, Chai latte, scoliosis back brace and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

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