Merino Wool Sweater: Elita Top / Jacket by Style Arc

A few months ago I made the Style Arc's Elita Designer Top / Jacket in a boiled wool.  And since then I've want to sew a sweater knit version.  Finally, it's done after a few tweaks to the pattern.  

1. The hemlines were shortened; two inches on the bodice and two and a half inches on the sleeve length.  
2. The front curve near the bustline was widened
3. An addition of width at the back to provide more ease. 
4. The edges were finished with the machine roll hem feature on my serger.   
5. The ties were left off, I'll style it with a brooch instead.  

The sleeves are still a little long but I don't mind rolling it up once.  The pattern is lovely it's a keeper.  I like how it fits and I'll be able to wear this over the back brace if need be.  

The fabric makes this top.  It is made in a merino wool knit, a beautiful previously owned fabric that I picked up at Winnipeg Sews.  I feel very lucky to have found it.  And I will admit that it lingered in my own stash for quite some time because I was afraid to cut into it.  I was also afraid about shrinkage when it came to pretreating the fabric.  

But I decided that I have been holding onto the fabric for far too long.  I want them to shrink before cutting, not later.  I threw the burgundy colour merino wool jersey in the washing machine on the delicate cycle and used Woolite.  Afterwards it went in the dryer, again in the delicate cycle while I kept my fingers crossed.  I know risky, right?  

The fabric shrank.  I started out with 2.2 metres and in the end there was 2.06 metres.  It also shrank in the width but it came out looking beautiful.  And thankfully even with the shrinkage, I was able to cut out this project.  

The beige wool sweater knit received the same treatment but I didn't lose any length much to my surprise.  I still have to decide on the project.  

So the question, do you pre-treat your fabrics?  

Sewing IS Political

This project is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free make.  The Style Arc pattern originates from Australia.  The fabric was found locally at Winnipeg Sews, a now closed fabric outlet.  The threads were from the stash.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  None.

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Style Arc's Elita Top / Jacket

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, tweezers, canned air, Janome 2000D AirThread Serger, threads, tailor's ham, pressing sleeve, iron, ironing board, measuring gauge, good tunes and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Hooded Scarf: Vintage and OOP Vogue 2793

This is a gift sewing project.  The plan was to save it as a Christmas gift but the cold weather arrived and it didn't seem right to wait.  

I was drawn to vintage and out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 2793 for the hooded scarf.  According to Vintage Patterns Wikia, this pattern is from 1982.  It's self-lined and made in a merino wool.  I am certain this will provide ample protection during a prairie winter.  

This pattern is a keeper.  The instructions were lovely, although I did skip the section that calls for seam binding at the bottom of the hood piece.  It just seemed unnecessary.  And it worked out fine.  No dislikes with this pattern.  

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric and the pattern were both purchased in 2023 before the convicted felon and his cohort were re-elected (and elected) into office and started their tariff war on the world and trying to interfering in other countries policies and launching gaslighting tactics.  Sewing continues to be a reprieve from the chaos.  

Thank goodness for a stash, the worktable and some good tunes for the escape.  The merino wool fabric was in the stash for a couple of years, purchased from Marshall Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern, OOP Vogue 2793, is a vintage find and came from a Canadian Etsy seller.  It was purchased around the same time as the fabric.  The fabric scissors are Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads have been in the stash for years.  The cotton thread used on the sewing machine is Gütermann threads from Greece.  The silk thread used for hand stitching is Gütermann threads and are Swiss made.  The threads used on the serger state they are from Indonesia.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and / or trimmed

Fabric:  1.3 metres (39 inches wide)

Pattern:  vintage and OOP Vogue 2793, circa 1982.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, fabric scissors, paper scissors, threads, hand sewing needle, screwdriver, mini vacuum, tweezers, canned air, new needle for the sewing machine, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash Busting: A Winter Version of Butterick 6784

This is my dream-come-true dress.  It's comfortable, has the best pockets and it's made in the most incredibly beautiful cashmere and wool blend fabric.  

Butterick 6784 is a tried and true (TNT) pattern and the forth version of this dress.  The pattern is well-drafted and designed.  It's another kAtheRine Tilton design and a fun project to sew.  I enjoyed sewing this pattern and have no dislikes to report.  The hem length was shortened by two inches and hemmed with a one and a half blind hem.  I made this version without the collar and interfacing the sleeve facing.  There were no other changes.  

The fabric was pretreated before hitting the cutting table.  This beautiful cashmere and wool blend has been in the stash for eight years and it actually made a previous appearance on the blog here.  I made a shirt dress with this fabric which is still in my wardrobe.  It still fits and it's in excellent condition.  I do like a shirtdress but I haven't been reaching for it lately.  It's not the fabric, the fabric is gorgeous.  It needs the hemline shortened since I've lost some height in the past seven years.  And since I have threads in the serger and sewing machine I think that will be next.  But I digress.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels followed by a steam pressing.  Post-construction, this dress will be treated with care and hand washed when needed.   

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No sewing supplies used to create this dress contributed to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  The fabric has been in my stash for years, many years, and came from Mitchell Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet which closed down in 2017.  The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann thread and likely purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, Butterick 6784, was in the stash for years prior to the convicted felon's global tariff war.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased via The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were purchased directly from KATM last year.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Labels:  2--one fabric label and one "Bespoke" label 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, pin cushion, pin box, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, extra bobbins, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, mini vacuum, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, clapper, iron, ironing board, good tunes, heating pad, Dr. Ho, rest breaks, and pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Merino Wool Elastic Waist Skirt: OOP Butterick 5790

 

This fabric has been in the stash since last year, I just didn't have time to sew it until now.  It just happens that today is a windy and rainy cooler day with a chance that we might see some flurries this evening, the perfect occasion to break out this merino wool fabric and sew.  

The pull-on elastic waist skirt is a favourite vintage pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  Just one pattern piece makes this a perfect project for a beginner or a for those days when a quick project is desired.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Elastic:  1 metre -- 1 inch wide

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, assorted heavy objects used as weights, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clipper, screwdriver, lint brush, mini vacuum, tweezers, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board, coffee and an audiobook (Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom).  

Happy Sewing!

Wool Winter Coat: OOP Vogue 8934

I know it's officially spring and we didn't even feel like we experienced a winter here this year.  And yet I've been busy sewing a winter coat.  This has actually been months in the making.  This wool coat is made with a favourite Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8934.  

 

I may have mentioned in past versions that this coat is a labour of love as there is a lot of basting and hand-stitching involved in the making of this coat.  There are a total of twenty-four hemline darts, a set of eight on the fashion, lining and underlining fabrics.  It's one of my favourite features that gives this coat it lantern effect.  It has hidden buttons and buttonholes and side pockets.   

Fabrics

The fashion fabric for this coat is a previously owned 100% wool coating from Winnipeg Sews.  It's a gorgeous, thick and warm, wine coloured wool.  And it was a fraction of the cost of the wool blend options found new at the local fabric store.  There is no comparison of this fabric to the coating options found in the fabric stores this past winter.  This fabric is of superior quality and is a gem.  It was a pleasure to sew.  

Care was taken with the placement of the pattern pieces as this wool fabric has a nap.  The other kind of nap may or may not have contributed to the lengthy time it took to complete this sewing project.  But I digress.  

The nap, found in the wool coating fabric, is the texture of a fabric with raised fibers going in one particular direction.  The nap can be easily felt by running your hand over the fabric.  If your hand is running downwards "with the nap" it will feel smooth.  Whereas if you run your hand upwards "against the nap" it will feel rough.  The pattern pieces had to be pinned and cut in the same direction downwards "with the nap."  

The coat is lined with a black cotton back satin and underlined with a wind breaking fleece.  Both of these fabrics were in the stash for many moons. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged lining pieces.  Wool did not require serging.  

Fabrics:  6.7 metres

Buttons:  5--1 inch buttons

Sewing Label:  2--1 "Vogue Patterns Designer Original" and 1 KATM "Bespoke" sewing labels.  

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, threads (coat thread for hand stitching facings and buttons, polyester threads for the serger and cotton thread for the sewing machine), Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, buttonhole foot, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, clapper, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, procrastination and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top to go with it.  The pullover top was a fail in fit and even though the skirt is comfortable it didn't see much wear this winter.  This is my attempt to finally complete a set.  

There was about 1.9 metres remaining of the merino wool fabric, not enough for a pullover top but just enough for another cardigan.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 has been a successful project in the past so I figure it could work here as well.  

The fit worked out perfectly.  And I'm thrilled to finally have a matching set.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.9 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, seam ripper and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Wool Pull-over Sweater: Vogue 9330

A few More than a few months ago, I made this skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pull-over sweater.  Let's just say this has been a slow process to complete this project.  

The Pattern

Vogue 9330 is a [v]ery loose-fitting pullover top has neckline variations and sleeve in three pieces.  

There are several reviews recommending going down a size on this pattern because of what some have describes as "very oversized".  There are a couple of makes where the undersleeve and side pieces have been omitted for a more fitted look.    

I didn't find this to be the case.  I have hips.  What I don't have is a big bust.  And I did find that it is very oversized in the bust area.  I did cut a size large based on my hip measurements and could have easily gone down a size or two in the bust, shoulder and sleeve regions.  So, there was some tweaking going on during the sewing and trying on process.  

Quite a bit was cut off (stitching was done on the chalk markings) from the sleeve and tapered towards the waistline on both underarm and side seams.  This gave me a fit that I was more comfortable with and it did not interfere with the sleeve darts that I quite like.  There is a generous amount of ease at the hemline and that is exactly what I was hoping for with this loose-fitting top.  Just beware of the generous amount of ease throughout the pattern pieces.  

Sewing Techniques

The pattern instructions call for a double stitch at the seams.  I did not use this technique and instead sewed the top with the knit stitch on my Janome sewing machine.  It is often referred to the lightning bolt stitch.  

Instead of hand stitching the hems, I top-stitched them using Knit 'N Stable tape before stitching them in place.  I wasn't all that please with how the hem finish came out on the sleeves.  If I were to sew this again, after adjusting the undersleeve pattern piece, I would make a facing and then top-stitch.  

The Fabric

The fabric is a medium-heavier weight merino wool from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric store.  They do ship and if you are looking for fabric like this, the last time I was there, they did have other colours (teal, gray, and black) as well.  

The fabric was pre-treated before hitting the cutting table and it handles the wool setting on the iron quite well.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit stitch (2.8 straight stitch for the darts)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2 metres

Thread:  8 spools of thread 

Pattern:  Vogue 9330

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, tweezers, Janome serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, tea and months of delays.    

Happy Sewing!

Winter White Wool Pants: Butterick 6717

I have always wanted a winter white pair of pants although I don't know how practical these will be to wear outdoors this coming winter.  Don't trust the pristine white images of snow shown in the Hallmark Christmas movies filmed up here.  It can get pretty gray and slushy up in these parts during the winter.  Although the first snow fall is quite stunning in its beauty.  

Pristine white prairie snow, only in the movies!   
Photo Credit:  About a Kiss Before Christmas {Source}

Maybe while the temperatures are an autumn cool and I can still wear shoes.  Otherwise, these may end up being a pair of indoor winter wool pants.  We'll see how the season turns out.  We're supposed to be entering into an El Nino winter pattern and it's predicted that we'll get lots of snow.  But I digress.  

These are made with a trusted pattern, Butterick 6717.  This pattern is currently available as a PDF pattern over on Simplicity website.  I'm just happy I have a hard copy because I'm not a fan of PDF patterns and I would have missed out on this pattern otherwise.  This pants pattern is comfortable and comfort is important.  Needless to say, I do recommend this one.  I really like the comfort of the elastic back and the dart-less front.  

The fabric is a British wool from Fabricland and that has been in the stash for decades.  At one point recently, I did think about selling it to Winnipeg Sews but it didn't make it into the pile because upon inspection, it had a couple of small holes in the fabric.  Luckily, there was enough fabric to cut around those damaged spots.  I am so glad I didn't sell it, I'm really thrilled with how these pants turned out.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, regular presser foot, blind hem foot, safety pins, thread clippers, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, clapper, pressing mitt, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Another Pair of Pull-on Pants / OOP Butterick 6717

Out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6717 is my go-to pattern for pull-on pants and when I came across this wool fabric in the fabric stash, I couldn't resist for some reason.  I know, I have, in the past, professed that pink is not my favourite colour but here I am sewing up a pair of pink pants.  And these are not a muted pastel shade of pink.  Go figure.  

We'll have to wait and see how often these will be pulled from the closet to be worn.  

As mentioned, OOP Butterick 6717 is my current fav pants pattern.  They are really comfortable.  I left off the side pockets and that is the only change I made to the pattern.  The fabric is a 100% wool suiting fabric that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics ten years ago.  Yes, it has been in the stash for that long!  I actually picked this fabric up to sew a Teal Traina vintage Vogue dress pattern (OOP Vogue 1186).  I never got around to sewing that dress pattern and the pattern has since found another owner.  Sometimes, it feels like a fabric rarely becomes a project that I first envision it will become.  There is enough to sew a vest or perhaps a matching blazer.  Maybe?  

Techniques and Tips

I used the dryer method for pre-shrinking the wool fabric.  I threw a damp / wet towel into the dryer with the wool fabric.  It works for wools that won't be seeing the inside of a washing machine.  These pants will be hand washed in the future.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged 

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, spring release fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, spring release thread cutters, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, Janome Air Thread serger, screwdriver, threads, large towel, wrist brace, heating pad and a few breaks here and there.  

Happy Sewing!  

Hair Conditioner, Who Knew?

This is a must share tip:  hair conditioner can reverse some shrinkage in a merino wool garment.  I will admit, there was a wee part of skepticism at reading this online.  Not anymore.  

Not that I'm going to be careless going forward with my woolly makes.  I shrunk my black wool turtleneck dress to the point that I didn't wear it this winter.  Thankfully, it did not shrink in the width of the garment, sadly, it shrank in the length.  For some time, there was thoughts of cutting it shorter into a top with three-quarter length sleeves.  If the conditioning experiment didn't work, that was the plan.  

I'm happy to report that it did work to a point that I still have a wool turtleneck dress.  It's not at the original length which was the same as the pink one its contrasted with in the photos above.  Words cannot express how happy I am that I have a below knee length dress back.  

Next up, I'm going to condition this sweater which has also experienced some shrinkage since it came off the sewing machine in 2018.  Thankfully, I couldn't part with it since then.  Fingers crossed it works out again and this sweater can be rescued.  

Hair conditioner, seriously, who knew?

Stash busting: Wool Pull-on Pants / OOP Butterick 6717

The third time is the charm!  

I do like the design of these pants, a simple plain front, elastic back waist, pull-on pants.  I like this pattern enough that when I came across another copy for a larger size option, I jumped on it.  I was trying to solve the dip at the center back waist.    

The previous versions were sewn in a size medium with 1" extra ease added at the side seams.  This worked out to being the same extra amount at the side seam for the next size up but didn't match the changes in ease at the crotch curve and inner thigh.  So, I gave a size large a try.  And I'm happy that I did because the fit is spot on.  

I cut a size large straight out of the envelope, there was no additional ease added to this pair.  The only changes were leaving off the pockets (same as the other pairs) and inserting a 1 1/4" elastic instead of the one-inch recommended elastic.  Oh, wait!  I did remove 5/8" length from the left leg to compensate for a difference caused by scoliosis.  The hem was finished with a 1 1/2" blind hem.  

The stash busted 100% British wool fabric has been in the fabric collection for years.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer followed by a steam pressing to hopefully get all the shrinkage worked out.  I'll be hand washing these going forward.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres

Elastic:  0.6 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, regular presser foot, blind hem foot (for edge stitching and hem), Janome serger, threads, hand sewing needle (for hem basting), thread clippers, safety pins, iron, ironing board, coffee and audio book (This Changes Everything).  

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Have you ever heard of qiviut?  

It's a wool that is described as softer than cashmere and warmer than down.  Eight times warmer than sheep's wool.  

I learned something new today.  

Yesterday, I never heard of qiviut.  

The source of this impressive fibre is the muskox.  

Photo source:  Guide to Greenland

Most of Canada's muskox population live in the Canadian Artic of the Northwest Territories and Nunavut and are under government protection since the early 1900s.  

Not that I expect to have the opportunity to work with qiviut, I do, however, think this was an interesting story.  

In actual sewing news...  

I've been busy cutting and sewing more reusable grocery bags.  

Another four are at the sewing table.  

Not the most exciting sewing project.  

Lately, practical sewing takes priority.  

And I received a request for another pair of men's pull-on pants.  

That will be next on my sewing list.  

And then maybe I'll get to a new pattern that I'm dying to try.  

It's the Merchant and Mills' Florence pattern.  

Photo source:  Merchant and Mills

It looks comfy and I do like the look of the top option as well.  

Photo source:  Merchant & Mills

I'll trace and test the pattern but I'm thinking about sewing the top in some silk noir that I've been holding onto for quite some time.  And maybe a linen for the dress.  

A muslin will be in order first as this is the first time I'm sewing a Merchant & Mills pattern and the sizing seems different from the patterns I'm used to sewing.  

Has anyone sewn this or any other M&M patterns?  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

A Forgotten Project, Finally Finished: OOP Vogue 1325

In the progress of cleaning up my sewing space a few weeks ago, I discovered a forgotten sewing project.  It's a pair of pants cut from out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1325 in a beautiful wool suiting fabric.  These pants were cut with a little extra ease on the sides so I suspect that they were cut post-March 2020 when the pandemic pounds starting showing up.  But to be completely honest, I'm not sure when I first cut these out and stitched the front darts. 

If it were today, I don't believe I would have re-visited this pattern.  Instead, I would have reached for a pant pattern that has an elastic back and darted front.  And today, I'm glad that I found these already previously cut.  I forgot how much I like the fit and comfort of this design.  The extra ease added at the sides worked out perfectly in making these wearable today.  

I still love that this pants pattern has a raised waist.  It was released in 2012, a time when below waistline pants and skinny legs pants ruled the fashion landscape.  I also adore the semi-fitted and flared legs which add to the comfort level of this design.  Oh did I mention, it has pockets!  This pattern is a keeper.  I do have another copy of this pattern, uncut, that contains larger sizes if I ever need to go there.  I hope not, and actually hope that I see the day that these will one day be loose on me.  I'm working hard, watching what I eat and adding more exercise into my day.  

There was a hic-up along the way when I forgot how to sew a pant zipper despite having excellent instructions sitting on my sewing table.  What can I say, I must be out of practice.  It took a couple of days sit down and seam rip the stitches and mend my ways.  

The fabric is a beautiful find at the Mitchell Fabric closing sale.  I haven't seen this quality of fabric at a local brick-and-mortar store since Mitchell Fabric closed.  So I'm really glad that these worked out.

 

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finishes:  Seam edges are finished on the serger. 

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Zipper:  18 cm recycled regular zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1325 (Anne Klein New York designer pattern)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, pin cushions, sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, blind hem foot, zipper foot, thread clippers, scissors, iron, ironing board, serger, tweezers, threads, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, and a whole lot of procraftination before this project saw competition.  

Happy Sewing!

Winter Wear Sewing: OOP Vogue 8939

This weekend and into the next week, the prairies are under an extreme cold warning. Woke up to a minus thirty-three degrees Celsius, minus forty-six degrees Celsius with the wind chill. And yet all the lovely sewing bloggers are taking pictures outdoors without winter coats. Or backgrounds with green lawns. You guys are killing me here. 

So, you'll understand if I'm not sewing pretty floral dresses and looking at the spring line of patterns that are popping up. This weekend, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8939 (circa 2013), made a re-appearance on the cutting table. Nothing turns my thoughts to sewing a turtleneck dress faster than frigid Artic air hanging over the winter landscape.  

I'm sewn a few versions of Vogue 8939 turtleneck dresses over the years but I will say that this one is by far my favourite. This one is all about the fabric. Many moons ago I came across this ridiculous sale of dead stock fabric where I found this beautiful wool knit. I made a sweater in this black knit and in pink. And the one hard lesson that I learned in the process is that I should had pre-treated my fabric. Both sweaters shrunk and no longer fit.  

So I pre-treated the last fifteen metres I had with a tumble in the washing machine followed by a tumble through the dryer. And boy, did it ever shrink! I'm not sure how many metres came out of the process, just width wise, there was a noticeable change when it hit the cutting table. I'll be hand-washing this dress from now on as I'm really thrilled with how it fits and the felted feel to this knit.  

The pattern is a favourite go-to pattern. I lengthened it five inches, graded out a size or two around the hip area and shortened the length of the sleeves. It's an easy project, highly recommend it for a beginner.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Sewing Tip:  Pre-treat your fabric and if you're lucky enough to know the fibre content, consider buying more yardage if it's a fabric that is known to shrink.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8939

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, pin cushions, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, serger, walking foot, tweezers, thread clippers and tea.  

Stay Warm and Happy Sewing!