Costume Cape Toile: Butterick 4377

Okay, I'm sewing a toile for someone who is over six feet tall and wants the finished length to be about two feet over floor length. This is making the project, and the fact that it will be lined, a very expensive venture and the most expensive project that I've undertaken. It's a fabric eater and fabric now-a-days is well, expensive. 

This just adds to the stress of sewing this project and it's only the muslin (toile). I would feel horrible if I made an error during the sewing or cutting stage. So, I will be taking care when sewing this project while dreaming of the day when this project is safely delivered and has left the workspace without any mishaps. [Fingers and toes crossed.]

As noted over on Pattern Review by others who have made this pattern, the hood is huge. I think this is what the person who will be wearing it is looking for but we'll see when the fitting comes around. Some have scaled the size of the hood down to a more manageable size.  

Another wrote:  

One note, however: this is a GIANT project! MAKE SURE that you have plenty of room to cut the pieces out (one panel didn't quite fit completely on my 5' x 4' cutting table) and especially to pin together the completely sewn cape and completely sewn lining. 

I couldn't have agreed more. This fact makes it a very challenging sewing project, finding the room to hold the project while feeding it through the machine so that the weight of the project doesn't drag and distort the stitching. My sewing space is not made for this type of work.  

I might have to drag out the vintage brother sewing machine for this project, it handles heavier projects better (fingers crossed) than the Janome machine I'm currently sewing on. Considering the size of the project and the limitations of my sewing space, I won't understitch the lining of this cloak as suggested in the pattern's instruction sheets. I'll just take my time and press with the clapper for a neatly pressed edge.  

I'm also not sold on the pattern's instructions for sewing the hood with the seam binding finish. Those instructions don't make any sense when dealing with four layers of gathered bulk. And as others have pointed out the instructions for this part of the construction are quite perplexing. I again couldn't agree more.  

Abbythomas wrote on her pattern review: 

I have made this cloak several times and have streamlined the process a bit. A French seam to the inside where the hood and cloak meet is also a viable option and provides a little more stability at the shoulder where the weight of the cloak rests. If the French seam is turned to the inside, it doesn't show when the cloak is worn.

These words of wisdom are a priceless, based on experience over several versions and make way more sense than the Butterick instructions. I'll have to refer to Abbythomas' process when it comes to sewing the final version.  

Until the fitting... 

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

What Will You Be Wearing this Winter?

Yesterday in the Toronto Star, Heather Mallick wrote a hysterical opinion piece "Why Canadians Opt for the Same Grim Black Coat Every Winter." I saw myself in this article wearing my black puffer jacket that I picked up second hand as a car coat.  Because.  Wait for it.  It's easy to throw in the wash.  And a lot easier than trying to keep the car clean in the slushy wintery weather.  Am I at risk of being labelled a Canadian stereotype? Only my sewing skills could save me from such a fate.

I wore a colourful coat last winter and will continue to do so again. I would go full out colour me happy as a bubble-bee yellow if I could only find some yellow coating fabric that wasn't polyester. There has been a blue winter coat once gifted that crossed over my worktable.

  

Oh and the not to be missed and oh so not practical for Canadian winters but oh so chic. The red cape that I put so much work into but sadly hardly have an opportunity to wear.  

I'll admit that there are times that I blend in with the "black Canada Goose parkas and endless puffer jacket" wearing crowd. I'm just glad that sewing gives me an opportunity to break from the crowd. How about you?  Will you be sewing black winterwear or is it colour all the way?    

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

I've often said, "I'm not a quilter."  And I said it again this week.

I've convinced myself that my brain doesn't work like a quilter's brain.  Quilters are an enigma to me.  It sounds ridiculous doesn't it?

Image Source:  Dream Quilt Create

That is how I felt this week when I found myself in conversation with a die-hard quilter. She was trying to convince me to join her church quilting group. I told her that I'm more into garment sewing to which I got that glazed over look in her eye. This happen just before we both shared why we don't engage in each other's hobby. What struck me was that we had the same reasons for not being in garment sewing or quilting. It's like trying to solve the great debate of cats vs. dogs.  

Image source:  Dogs vs. Cats

No comparison, right? It's just a different animal. But I will admit that it has me thinking about that conversation quite a bit this week.  No, I'm not thinking about taking up quilting.  But it does seem to have a growing presence in the retirement community.  From the conversation, I don't think it really about making quilts rather it seems to be more about a social outlet.  And there you go, sewing whether it be garment or quilting just boils down to community.   And that's a good thing.

In other sewing news, McCall's released there Winter / Holiday collection today.  There are two patterns that caught my eye.

McCall's 7999, where were you months ago?  Lol.  Seriously, I'm happy to see this winter staple finally make an appearance.  I don't need one at this point.  I'm happy with my latest version and I do have this vintage Burda International pattern still waiting to be made up one day.  

I just have to locate my sewing mojo.  The other pattern that caught my eye is for another project that I don't need nor will I be sewing.

But I do think it is cute.  A cape with a hood.  The only thing that would make this perfect would be a hidden interior pocket to hide keys.  Oh and perhaps in a double faced knit!  I'm just looking forward to read the reviews on these ones.  

That's all in sewing new today... 

Happy Sewing!

Butterick's Fall Pattern Release

Oh my, can you believe that there are already fall 2017 patterns being released? Although, I am looking forward to fall, always! (I love autumn.) I haven't even brought out all of my summer time clothing out of storage. And yes, it will seem like in a blink of the eye, autumn will be upon us but I would like to make that off-the-shoulder top and maybe wear it at least once before I think about fall sewing. That said, there are some lovely patterns that have me thinking ahead.  

Of course another Tilton design caught my eye. At first Katherine Tilton's shirt pattern, Butterick 6491, reminds me of a shorter version of Marcy Tilton's coat pattern, Vogue 8934, with the shaped hem. Except this one has tucks instead of darts at the hemline and a different sleeve and collar design. It looks great on the model, and that forest print fabric is fabulous make up in this design. I think I'm more taken by the cream and black coloured fabric, so pretty.  

Butterick 6492 is for sure on my wish list. Not only would I wear this top as part of my everyday wardrobe, I wouldn't mind this as a pyjama top as well. It looks that comfortable and pockets!

I'm not sure if Butterick 6495 will make it into the collection but I really do like that the off-the-shoulder look is being interpreted for fall. I would certainly make that dress maxi length and maybe three-quarter length sleeves and wear it with a vest instead of a cardigan. But realistically, I don't need another dress. 

Oh no, Butterick 6490! I'm not falling this this cape/top style again. Once was more than enough. Okay, maybe I'll try the cape/top style again but if I do it will be giving Donna Karan's OOP Vogue 1417 a try instead. Prairie autumns call for more arm coverage.  

Well, that's enough thinking about fall sewing when I haven't even put a dent into my summer sewing projects. And besides, the only fall sewing I should be thinking about is making dresses for an autumn wedding. But I don't even want to think about that yet.   

Happy Sewing!   

McCall's 7541: Retraction

Remember last month when I said that I was undecided about McCall's 7541? Well, I'm withdrawing that statement. I now have a very strong opinion of this pattern.  

This pattern is perfect. 

So you might be wondering what changed. I brought it to work yesterday and gave it to one of my co-workers thinking that perhaps one of her daughters would like it. My colleague tried it on, then and there, and oh my goodness, it was perfect. She's taller than I am and I guess the height difference between us made a huge difference on the fit of this top. The neckline wasn't too wide or low on her, it was absolutely perfect.  

She wore it today and looked awesome and words can not express how good I felt that it's being worn by someone who likes it. 

I guess now I should say, if you're a petite size (I'm five foot) you might want to consider doing a muslin first. I can't remember if the pattern pieces have the markings to lengthen or shorten the bodice pieces but after re-reading the review I wrote over at pattern review, I originally quoted the back envelope description. 

Misses' Tops: Loose-fitting, pullover tops have length and front and back overlay variations. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.

Maybe taking it in from the shoulder seam and adding at the hemline length might work if I have another go at this pattern? Or should I re-shape the neckline? Of course, that will have to wait until I can sit without an aid. I'll have to think about this more when I'm not all doped up on pain meds. The cape overlay piece has quite a lot of narrow hemming to it and I don't think my tush is in any condition for that right now. But when I'm up to it, it will certainly be worth another go.    

Until then... Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

It has been a week since I last touched anything in the sewing room. It makes me sad because I want to sew I just can't sit with my injured tailbone and the injured knee doesn't help with this situation.  Instead, I've been longingly dreaming about sewing in-between long showers stretching out sore muscles.  

If I can sew right now I would make a t-shirt that reads, "stop telling me to stretch, it's my arse that hurts" because if one more non-medical person tells me to stretch I'm going roll my eyes at them and limp away.  ~sigh~  I know people mean well, but seriously, do they think they're telling me something I haven't already heard?  

Instead, I've managed to shop for future sewing projects. Thank goodness for laptops when laid-up. During the recent Vogue patterns sale I picked up just one pattern. I was tempted by many more but there is only one pattern that fits into my current life-style. 

I can't wait until I can get back to sewing as I already have fabric waiting in the wings.  

These two stable knits have been in my stash for years, and I think Vogue 9244 will be perfect for this project.  

I also picked up some Vogue designer labels. I really want to sew one into my Marcy Tilton coat.   

Talking about the coat, I picked up this caplet pattern.  

The plan is to make the caplet in a faux fur that I picked up last year. It is the perfect colour match with the coat I recently finished. It will be my first time sewing a fabric with a pile this high. The salesclerk recommends trimming down the pile along the seam allowances.  I'm going to have to do some practice sewing first.  

I also found this pattern over at Etsy.com, OOP Vogue 9814. I really like the draped front and it can be made in a knit or woven fabric. If I can't sew for the meantime, at least I can dream about sewing.  

Well, that is all in sewing news today. Until next time, happy sewing.  

  

Favourite Makes List: 2016 Edition

Hello lovely people! I hope that all of you who celebrate this time of year were blessed with the love of family and friends while making great memories. No sewing this Christmas weekend, just a look back at some of my favourite makes in 2016.   

#1:  That Red Cape

The red cape became a combination of out-of-print, vintage Simplicity 6680 and Katherine Tilton's Vogue 8863. It is a fav because it was challenge (bound buttonholes and tailoring techniques) and there was such a sense of accomplishment that went with finishing this project.

#2:  Those oh-so-comfortable Dresses!

Vogue 1410 has to be one of my favourite patterns and it was a go-to-pattern through-out the year. I do believe I have four versions of this pattern in my wardrobe and I wear every single one of them. My favourite is the blue floral print one.  

#3.  The Statement Piece

I made this piece from old clothing labels. This year I will be finishing up my third year on a ready-to-wear fast and I have to tell you that it is getting easier to rely on my own ability than spending time sifting through racks of clothing at a store. This piece reminds me of the political and social reasons why I sew and how the fashion industry has changed and is impacting our environment.  

#4.  The Perfect Peplum

After so many failed peplum top attempts over the past few years this winning peplum make had to make it to the list. Vogue 9056 quickly became a treasured pattern.   

#5.  Up-cycled Leather Jacket

Burda 7183 transformed a vintage leather shirt into one of my favourite statement pieces.   

#6.  The Silk Top

This silk fabric was a home decor find and perfect match for Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891. It makes the favourite list based on the comfort level and the fact that it has pockets. 

#7.  A Top for Mom

This would be my favourite top that I've made for my Mom this year although the silk one was a close second. I like the texture of the crepe, its medium weight and that print. It was made up with out-of-print Butterick 5561.  

#8.  The Cotton Tweed Jumper

This year Lida Baday announced that she would be closing up her design business. I may not be purchasing ready-to-wear clothing as I continued on the RTW fast, but it is sad to hear that a designer who continues to produce quality garments is closing up shop. Luckily, I have a few of her patterns in my collection and I consider her pieces to be timeless. 

#9.  The Winter Coat

You didn't think I was going to end the list without mentioning a Marcy Tilton pattern, did you? Yes, one of her designs made it onto my fav-list. And who would have thought that it would have been for a winter coat. Heck, who would have thought that I would finally make a winter coat? Certainly not I! I'm thrilled with Vogue 8934.  

#10.  Pants for Mom

Making pants for my Mom has to be the most rewarding project that gave me the most joy this year. It is tough for Mom to find a pair of pants that fit. She's a petite woman and lets be serious here for a moment, the selection for elderly people is awful. Its impossible to find something that is comfortable, easy to access and made in quality fabric. Why? I'm happy she finally let me try to make her pants and we're both thrilled that we discovered that we were sitting on a pattern that was perfect, Simplicity 2372.  

So there you have it, my 2016 favourite sewing list. There is more, stay tune for my 2016 blooper list.  

Until then, happy sewing!  

Modern Update to a Vintage Cape Pattern: The Final Chapter

Stash-busting 2016:  OOP Simplicity 6680 and OOP Vogue 8863

Did you see the Sew the Trends:  London & Milan Fashion Week, Fall '16 report over at Burda Style? Well, I was pretty thrilled to see that "statement capes" will be a look to sew for Autumn 2016. I can check that one off my list!

I never play without my cape. 
~Bela Lugosi~

This cape was a long time coming and it wasn't until I tried on a Kate Spade cape back in December that I really got to work.

My cape became a marriage between two sewing patterns, Simplicity 6680 and Vogue 8863, inspired by some details and measurements of the cape I tried on that day.  

This was just the project that I needed to kick-start my sewing mojo. This project was a fantastic challenge filled with sewing techniques that I longed to master. I spent a small fortune on the supplies for a garment that will have a limited time of wearability but it's worth every penny spent on it because of how this project makes me feel.

The buttonhole opening on the facing was finished off using the method from Tasia St. Germaine's Sewtionary and it worked out quite well.

I marked where my buttonholes meet on the facing and then cover it with fusible interfacing, shiny side up.

Once sewn, clipped and turned to the wrong side of the fabric, it is pressed and the fusible interfacing works like a charm at keeping the shape of the buttonhole facing until it is hand-stitched in place. That Mrs. Sewholic is one smart lady. The cape is finished with a cotton backed satin lining which was hand-stitched to the facing. 

The Stats:  

Fabric:      2.3 metres melton wool

Lining:      2.9 metres cotton backed satin lining

Interfacing:  1.3 metres of hair canvas

Piping:       1.8 metres

Buttons:     4 - 1" buttons

Thread:      4 spools of premium serger thread, cotton thread for the sewing machine, and silk thread for the pad stitching.

Pattern:      Vintage Simplicity 6680 and Vogue 8863

Time:         I invested 36 hours into the creation of this garment.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, clapper, tailor's ham, steam iron, ironing board, pressing mitt, thimble, tailor's chalk, walking foot, zipper foot, seam ripper, Podcast #29 Claire Shaeffer Haute Couture Revealed (encouraging me to invest the time into all that basting and hand-stitching) from Threadcult.com, hand needles, Chai latte breaks, sewing books (Sew a Fine Seam, Vogue Sewing, Sewtionary, and Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing) box of kleenex, tylenol, coffee, more kleenex, tylenol and coffee.


Happy Sewing!

The Making of a Cape: Chapter 5 -- Collar and Facing

Another favourite detail from the Kate Spade cape was the piping found between the lining and fashion fabric on the inside.

On the Kate Spade cape it was black piping but I went with a taupe, sort of on the gold side. Very out of character for me to choose this colour but I like it.

I took the time to sew the piping before basting and sewing the collar to the facing pieces.

Sewing through all these layers, the walking foot certainly proved to be a valued tool.

The collar on the vintage Simplicity 6680 pattern is one of my favourite details on my cape. I prefer this vintage collar design over the cutesy collar found on the Kate Spade cape. And I won't be copying the signature bow on the back either. I much prefer the clean tailored lines of the collar on the vintage pattern.  

Until the next chapter, happy sewing!   

The Making of a Cape: Chapter 4 -- Pad Stitching

The last few days I've been taking care of the front to side and side to back seams along with darts. There are two sets of darts, one at the shoulder seam and another at the back neckline. Simple stuff really.

Nothing really worth dedicating a chapter to but I thought you might like to see how the cape looks at this point.

It is no where done but it feels great to slip it over my shoulders and slide my hands into the pockets. But enough of playing dress-up, there's still a lot of work to do. Let's take a look at the next new-to-me technique involved in this cape.

The vintage Simplicity pattern that I am working on has one short sentence stating, "[s]ew with padding stitches." End of sentence. There are no glossary terms or explanation of padding stitches to be found anywhere on the instruction sheet.

My education on this new-to-me technique began with a pile of books. I'm ol' school like that, preferring to do traditional research over watching videos. And I would have guessed that the greatest wealth of information would be found in the vintage sewing books but really I found some words of wisdom from a variety of sources.

Sew A Fine Seam by Violet I. Wilson, copyright 1955, offers some pointers that I found helpful. There are not a lot of illustrations to go with the detailed descriptions.

• The stitch is taken at the right angles to the marked line about 1/4 inch apart.  
• Check for 1/4" variance on collar pieces. 
• Keep the threads slack.  

Another wealth of information came from The Sewtionary by Tasia St. Germaine. This book offers colour pictures and tips that I found helpful.  

• Use silk thread to pass through the hair canvas with ease and to limit impressions in the fabric.
• Wrap the undercover around a tailor's ham to steam to shape the collar after it has been pad stitched and leave it overnight to dry.  

Vogue Sewing, circa 1980, provided some important information about determining the roll not only on the under collar but on lapel as well. Unlike the Kate Spade cape my vintage Simplicity pattern does have a label. Vogue Sewing continues with a wealth of information on how to stabilize the roll as well. It was the time that I spent reading these key pages in Vogue Sewing that made me decide to go back and pad stitch the label as well.  

The geek that I am was quite interested in the information found in the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, circa 1978, where I discovered two new terms relating to the padding stitch. There are the Chevron padding stitch and the parallel padding stitch. Most books illustrate the Chevron padding stitch where each row of stitches are in the opposite direction so that they appear as a herringbone weave. The Parallel padding stitch are made when each row of stitches are in the same direction.  

So how did it turn out?

Right now the under collar is currently drying on the tailor's ham as I go back and pad stitch the label.

Until the next chapter, happy sewing!

The Making of a Cape: Chapter 3 -- Welt Pockets

I took a detour from the vintage pattern instruction sheet to add a modern twist to the seventies cape pattern. I want pockets like those found on the Kate Spade cape. Aren't they just sublime?  

Of all the cape patterns that I was tempted by, I couldn't recall any that featured pockets. Now, where is a gal supposed to put her essentials without pockets?  

The JoeyBra {Source)

Yes, the fashionably hip might suggest the JoeyBra. But seriously, a gal my age could dislocate a shoulder trying to utilize the JoeyBra in the frigid prairie winters while wearing a cape. And that is how I found myself on the road to adding pockets. It was a road previously untravelled. Sure, I have sewn pockets before, side-seam pockets, side-front pockets, patch pockets and that is about it. I have never sewn a welt pocket before. 

And this is where OOP Vogue 8863 comes into the picture. I read a review that praised the pockets on this jacket and check it out, a welt pocket just like on the Kate Spade cape.  

Oh my! I was excited to start on this journey into unknown territory but I knew I needed some encouragement. Since Claire Shaeffer proved to be an inspiration on the trek towards bound buttonholes bliss, I turned to her soothing voice to lead the way.

I found Claire's words of wisdom via Thread Cult podcasts by Christine Cyr Clisset (#29 to be exact).

As Claire guides me through the difficult task of hand basting all those layers of wool and horsehair interfacing,

I continue on with the promise that hand stitching is the golden goose of the sewing world. Or something along those lines.

Between kAtheRine Tilton's excellent pocket pattern, instructions, breaking down and finally wearing a thimble, and Claire Schaeffer's encouragement, I completed my first welt pocket. Actually, I made two!

Until the next chapter,  happy sewing.