Tim Gunn's 10 Essential Items: The Me-Made Version

I'm at a crossroads in my sewing. I'm trying to edit my wardrobe. I mentioned that I need conservative work clothes. I seem to have too many fun clothes. They are fine for working at a school but if I go out in the grown up world, not so much. I thought for fun I would take a look at Tim Gunn's 10 essential items through a me-made lens and see if I can find some inspiration.

1. Basic Black Dress

1.  Basic Black Dress.  Tim Gunn describes this essential item as "a transition piece."

My basic black dress is Vogue 1312. Okay, I might be stretching it with the "basic" theme but I do consider it a transition piece, it's black and I do feel oh-so-fine in it.

But if I were to add a basic black dress (with sleeves this time) it would be Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8904 in a black cotton knit fabric. I just need to do a test run on the pattern before I commit to cutting the gorgeous free trade cotton knit that I picked up at Mitchell Fabric.

2. The Day Dress, Vogue 1985

2. Day Dress.
A dress, described by Gunn as one that you can wear to work but not for a evening social function. Hmmm, thinking... That would have to be the Teal Traina dress pattern that I picked up last year, Vogue 1985. I've been meaning to sew this one up for quite some time.

3.  Classic White Shirt.  I have white fabric in my stash and I know that I would like one with french cuffs. Connie Crawford's, Butterick 5365, shirt might work.  I do like the fit and the darts from the neckline. I would just have to redraft the cuff and then I would be all set to go on this project.  

4. The Classic Blazer, Vogue 8333

4.  Classic Blazer. Ah, this will be a challenging project. I have Claire Shaeffer's pattern, Vogue 8333, in my stash for this essential item. And it is a petite-able pattern. I need to get to work on this one, it's been on my want-to-sew list for far too long.  

5.  Dress Pants,
Vogue 1325

5.  Dress Pants.  I can check this one off the list. Hands down the best pants pattern I'll tried has been Vogue 1325. I made these pants in a navy but I wouldn't mind making a couple more pairs of pants using this pattern. For sure a pair in black and maybe a taupe? Can't go wrong with neutrals, right?  

6.  Trench Coat Alternative

6.  Trench Coat.  Okay, I'm not a traditional trench kinda gal. Burda 7304 is more my style. I love this pattern. My fabric choice made this project a lot of work (bound seams) but I think it was worth it in the end. So, I'm going to cross this item off my list.  

7.  Good Pair of Jeans. Along with a blazer I have never sewn a pair of jeans. Which is kind of weird when you consider the amount of denim that is part of my fabric stash. Likely, because pants have been a challenging item for me to fit rather than lack of interest in sewing jeans. And I do own a copy of Sandra Betzina's Vogue 1034. Yeah, I've got no excuses for this one.

8.  Skirt. Mr. Gunn suggests something that can be paired with the white shirt and blazer for an easy, polished look. That would have to be my favourite Rachel Comey's skirt pattern, Vogue 1247, as my essential skirt piece (lengthened, of course). Since there are five versions of this skirt already made I think I can cross this off my list.

10.  Sweatsuit Alternative

9.  Cashmere Sweater. McCall's released a cardigan pattern McCall's 6803 and Vogue has some sweater appropriate patterns but I don't ever recall coming across cashmere fabric in the stores, have you? I'm going to cross this item off the list just because I have a RTW item that fit this bill.

10.  Sweatsuit Alternative.  This item cracks me up because I would never consider a sweatsuit. I would never in a million years consider yoga pants in public. But if I get this right Mr. Gunn means errand-running item. For me that would be a dress or skirt. I do have McCall's 8246, circa 1996, the side buttoned dress with a jean jacket would work for me. And for the chillier temperatures that would be Advance 8436 that I've been meaning to make up in the blue and black flannel plaid fabric.

Well, that's it. With Tim's help I have a sense of my next few sewing projects.

✄ Vogue 8904 (Basic Black Dress)
✄  Vintage Vogue 1985 (Day Dress)
✄  Butterick 5365 (White Shirt)
✄  Vogue 8333 (Blazer)
✄  Vogue 1325 (Dress Pants x 2)
✄  Vogue 1034 (Jeans)
✄  McCall's 8246 (Sweatsuit Alternative)
✄  Advance 8436 (Sweatsuit Alternative)

But first, I have another dress to make for Mama R.  Happy Sewing!

Day 2: Me-Made-May

Can you believe that the city woke up to another dusting of the white stuff? Once the weather warms up, I won't be wearing this dress. It is made out of a heavier weight of cotton that I found in the home decor department. But for today it was perfect. It was so chilly I even kept my jacket on at work.

Here is what I wore on day two of

Dress:               Vintage Advance 8436. Fabric: 100% cotton fabric found in the home decor department.    

Jacket:             Donna Karan design, Vogue 1263. Fabric: Boiled wool.

Footwear:        Taupe environmentally friendly Groundhogs.

Eyewear:         DKNY

Accessories:   Knee braces, Ossur.
                       Toque, The Bay.
                       Red gloves, Costco.  

Undies:             Blue tights, bra, knickers, all RTW. Did I mention that this is a gap in my me-made wardrobe?

Nightshirt:        Simplicity 2289. Fleece and knit double-sided fabric.

Pajama Bottoms:  RTW, Lady Hathaway. 

Bathrobe:         Simplicity 7417.  Fabric: 100% cotton terry cloth. 

Progress on sewing the baby onsie: none. I've got a date with a heating pad and an early bedtime.

Happy Sewing!

  

The Year in Review.

Twenty twelve was quite a year and I have to tell you it is difficult to decide which was my favourite make. It is a toss up between the Donna Karan jacket, Vogue 1263, and the Lynn Mizono dress, Vogue 1312.    

January 2012: 

I started off the year with my first epic fail, The Red Mess Dress! Thankfully, it was not a sign of things to come: 

It was a whirl-wind month with lots of projects accomplished, 1 1/2 dresses (I didn't finish the red mess dress), 2 skirts, and a shirt. 

One of the skirts was a re-fashion project where I re-fashioned an no longer-fitting pair of pants into one of my most wore skirts this year.  

February 2012:  

Just one project this month, Vogue 1263.  

Year to date count:  1 1/2 dresses, 1 skirt, 1 shirt, 1 jacket and 1 re-fashion project.  

March 2012:  

This month I discovered the best fitting shirt pattern in my stash. I can't believe I only made one and hardly wore this shirt this year.  

Year-to-date count:  1 1/2 dresses, 2 skirts, 2 shirts, 1 jacket and 2 re-fashion projects.  

April 2012:

This month I was busy working on an entry for the Vintage pattern contest over at Pattern Review.  

Year-to-date count:  2 1/2 dresses, 3 skirts, 2 shirts, 1 jacket and 2 re-fashion projects.    

May 2012:

I made a pair of curtains for Mama R, and achieved another epic fail project, the wavy neck-line t-shirt.  Highlight of the month came when I discovered my new favourite skirt pattern, Vogue 1247.  

Year-to-date count:  4 1/2 dresses, 4 skirts, 2 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 2 re-fashion projects and one household item.

June 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  5 1/2 dresses, 6 skirts, 3 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 2 re-fashion projects and one household item.

July 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  9 1/2 dresses, 7 skirts, 3 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 2 re-fashion projects and 2 household items.

August 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  11 1/2 dresses, 7 skirts, 3 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 1 pair of pants, 2 re-fashion projects and 2 household items.

September 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  12 1/2 dresses, 8 skirts, 3 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 1 pair of pants, 2 re-fashion projects and 2 household items.

October 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  13 1/2 dresses, 8 skirts, 3 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 1 pair of pants, 2 re-fashion projects and 3 household items.

November 2012:  

Year-to-date count:  13 1/2 dresses, 9 skirts, 4 shirts, 1 t-shirt, 1 jacket, 1 pair of pants, 2 re-fashion projects and 3 household items.

December 2012:  

This month I ventured out of my comfort zone and made some men's wear items, a men's shirt and vest.  

Year-to-date count:  14 1/2 dresses, 9 skirts, 5 shirts, 1 vest, 1 t-shirt, 2 jacket, 1 pair of pants, 2 re-fashion projects and 3 household items.


Sew, what is ahead in the new year?  

I wouldn't mind a challenge and learning how to make a tailored jacket. I have Vogue 8333 in mind for this learning process. The plan: to follow the couture techniques and make a muslin. This will surely challenge my skills.  

Oh and with January just around the corner, I have some animal prints ready for Jungle January. How about you?   

Happy Sewing and Happy New Year!  

October in Review

Oh my goodness!  Where did the month go?  I can't believe that it is already November 3rd and I missed my month end wrap up.  It was a crazy busy week though.  Anyway, here is what I was up to last month.  Not much, just these two items.  

Vintage Shirtwaist Dress

Fabric:   3 metres 100% Cotton Rosedale Sateen (Giarding) Porcelain $94.08, found in the reduced section $30.24 

Pattern:  Advance 8436 found this over at etsy.com (used for the first time), I believe I spent $18.00 but don't quote me on that... 
Thread:  $4.87

Buttons:  $8.06 

Snaps:  $0.12

Total Cost:  $61.29
Times Worn this Month:
Time Investment:
Tools Needed:  Sewing machine, serger, buttonhole foot, measuring tape, fabric shears, universal sewing machine needles, pins, seam ripper, sewing needles, iron and tailor's chalk.


Mattress Pillow

Fabric:  Sheets (from Mama R's stash), $0.00
Filling:  $30.00
Thread:  $4.87
Elastic:  1.00
Total Cost:  $35.87
Time Investment:  
Tools Needed:  Sewing machine, serger, measuring tape, fabric shears, pins, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, iron.  

Things I Learned While Sewing Advance 8436

The Women's Shirtwaist dress, Advance 8436, is finished. And I absolutely love it.

I had to do some tweaking to get to this point. And if I sew another one, which I plan to do, I will have to consider some of the changes that happened.

• Several inches were cut from the hemline.  
• Next time I will shorten the sleeves to achieve the three-quarter length.  
• and the waist, oh my goodness the waist!  

I learned that it is a good thing to do some research when sewing a vintage pattern. This pattern, I suspect, is from circa 1950s. It was a size 16 and the measurements corresponded with modern body measurements from a Vogue size 14, which is the size that I typically sew. I thought I wouldn't have any issues. Boy was I wrong. 

Where did I error? Well, that would be in omitting any historical research into this era. My bad.  

Post-cutting I discovered that gals back in the fifties were into a form of body modification called waist training. My ribs hurt just thinking about it.  

Gertie blogged about Corsets of the 1950s and it seems to be the important detail that I neglected when I started working on this dress. This might explain why I had ample room in the bust and hip area but I had to let out the waist area over three inches! 

It was either that or do this. And I don't do diets. Yeah, there is a diet that goes with waist training. Sew, letting out the dress was my only option. And to think that waist training is apparently making a comeback. Who knew? And why?  

This might explain the high placed bust darts, no? {Source} 

There was another issue with the Advance 8436 pattern, the ill-placed darts. Or are they ill-placed? It just seemed so odd. I know I recently had a birthday but the girls are not sagging. The armhole and ease around the bust seemed fine but the darts seemed high. And then I found this photo of Deborah Roberts of ABC News.    

I suspect that if I were wearing a corset (such as Ms. Roberts is wearing or a waspie mentioned in Gertie's post) the darts would be perfectly placed for the pushed up girls.  

I'm still not convinced to dabble in a bit of body modification, I'm going to work on the pattern instead.  

The plan, remove the darts completely. There is ample ease around the bust they won't even be missed. I wouldn't mind keeping the tucks the way that they are on the pattern but that will mean adding to the side seams on the bodice.  And then I will also add to the skirt pieces where they meet at the waist. 

I don't think there is anything else that I would change. The pockets and the button front are my favourite detail.  

And I really did like they way the tucks looked before I had to let them out significantly. 

With these things that I learned while sewing the shirtwaist dress in mind, I think I'm ready to tackle the dress in the plaid fabric.  

But first, I have some sewing for others to clear off my table.  

Happy Sewing.  

Check, Check, Check and Check!

I've gathered the sleeves, attached the cuffs, stitched twelve buttonholes, seam ripped two buttonholes and restitched them and I even found the mis-placed buttons. I can check these items off the list. What's left?

I really need to clear off the sewing table and see what other mis-placed items are to be found.

But for now I'm done for the night.

Sewing the twelve buttons will just have to wait for another time.

Until then, happy sewing!

Advance 8436: Almost done!

A bit more work on the shirtwaist dress to show 'n tell. Letting out the tucks and sewing 3/8" seams for the skirt worked. I'm extremely pleased with the fit now.

The sleeves sewn at the armhole worked without any major issues. Yippeee!

I shortened the skirt length and hemmed the dress with a narrow hem.

Left to do:

• Gather the sleeves
• Sew on the cuffs
• Sew the buttonholes 
• Buttons Find the misplaced buttons for this dress
• Sew on the buttons

These last tasks will have to wait until Thursday evening. The dress is almost done and I can't wait to finish it up! Now, where did I put those buttons?    

Happy Sewing!  

Big Beautiful Pockets!

The shirtwaist dress, Advance 8436, is coming along slowly but surely.

This evening I was able to finish sewing the skirt sections together.

The pockets on this dress have to be one of my favourite details. The top of the pockets are placed so that they drape open. They are generous in size. They are perfectly big beautiful pockets!  See...

Well, even though I can't wait to finish this dress it have to wait until tomorrow. It's time to call it a night.  

Happy Sewing!  

Shirtdress Vintage vs. Modern

Sewing Advance 8436 I have to admit there is a feeling of déjà vu.  In some aspects, this Vintage pattern reminds me of the Simplicity 1880 dress made this summer.  

The bodice has tucks from the waistline in the front and back, just like Simplicity 1880. 

Both dresses have yokes with slight variations. Advance 8436 has a back yoke that meets with the front bodice piece at the shoulder. It also has easing that I do not typically find in modern sewing patterns. 

What's different between the vintage and modern shirtdress. Where to begin?  

The dart placement at the bust on the Advance pattern is quite interesting. The pattern has two bust darts from the side seam. The Simplicity pattern relied on bust ease through gathers from the front yoke. I do prefer the double breast darts. It is something that you don't see in modern designs.  

{Source}

And I am aware that vintage patterns are sized differently than modern patterns. The Advance pattern is a size 16. The measurements on the pattern envelope correspond with modern Vogue measurements in a size 14. I thought I was safe to cut out my working muslin in a cotton paisley fabric without much concern. 

Oh my Betty!  

Did gals back in the 1950s have a waistline? Seriously.  

I would really need to do some serious waist training to fit into the Advance waistline design. This vintage pattern would be perfect for Betty Brosmer's 18" waistline. And Ms. Brosmer would be able to do up her shirtdress and still look smart.  

The pattern has ample room in the bust line. Not so in the waistline. I'm not of the corset wearing / waist training generation. Sew, I had to get to work. 

I let out slightly over three inches along the waistline by letting out the six tucks between the bodice front and back. There are still six tucks, but they are just 1/2 the width they were before. After doing so, I can breath! 

The skirt is my next issue.  Since I have let out the bottom portion of the bodice, the skirt pieces are being sewn with a 3/8" seam allowance.  

After that, I might have to do some sit-ups. Or I can just alter the pattern for the next time around. 

Until then I'm still going to work at it and hopefully I will have a wearable muslin.  

Happy Sewing!   

In Sewing News Today...

I thought this day would never come, but it did! 

Yup, I'm talking about the day that the bolts of silk noir sitting in the clearance section of my local fabric store were reduced further.

I had been waiting a long time for this day. I snatched up three bolts of orange, indigo and a light blue. I decided on the orange and indigo bolts of fabric. 

These treasured cuts of fabric are stashed away until spring. I have plans to make a spring dress with the indigo silk. The orange silk I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but how could I resist.

Frank Sinatra said it best, "orange is the happiest colo[u]r."  

I've been easing back into sewing slowly.  I won't say that my sewing mojo is completely back. I've been sneaking a wee bit of sewing in here and there.

Remember this? It is almost a year that I started cutting out squares from some of my fabric scraps.

It is crazy how long I've held onto some of these pieces. The pink plaid was from when my niece was about two years old when I made her a dress. Crazy! That is sixteen years ago! The tractor print was when my nephew was a year old and I made him overalls. There are a lot of memories stitched together.

But I digress... I have managed to sew 196 squares together. I can file this one under I never thought this day would come too.

It might not seem like a lot, but for a non-quilter I'm quite happy with this. And it has been a good on-going project for those days when I want to get some sewing done but just not in the mood to work on a big project detailed project.  

Talking about detailed projects. I'm working on the vintage shirtdress, Advance 8436. The pattern arrived over a week ago.

I know that I mentioned I wanted to make it in a blue plaid but I'm trying it out in this fabric before I cut it in the plaid. It is a paisley Rosedale Sateen that I found in the home decor department.

I love the details in this dress especially the double darted bodice. This is the first time that I have come across a pattern that has two darts for the bust. There are also tucks at the waistline in the front and back bodice and gathers at the back yoke and bodice. My fingers are crossed that it turns out well.

This is about as far as I've managed to get on this pattern. It is not that I'm not excited about sewing it. I'm just taking things slow until I'm feeling more myself. Until then, a few stitches at a time.

That's all in sewing news today.  How about you, what's on your sewing table?

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

Despite being exhausted and tortured by my Excel class, I'm quite excited today. I have two patterns on the way. And in my humble opinion, I think they are fabulous.

The first is a Spiral blouse pattern from Center For Pattern Design. And the second I found over at Etsy.

I'm super excited about the Spiral blouse pattern and can't wait for it to get here. According to the tracking information, it left Los Angeles on Friday.

This one seems like it might be a challenge, I believe it is one pattern piece if I read that correctly. And after taking an Excel course (there is only so much copy and drag one can take before the excitement is all gone), I need some new excitement in my life and am looking forward the challenge. I think I might save this challenge for when I have some time off work at Christmas break.

What I can't wait to sew is the Advance shirtdress pattern that is on its way.

I have a blue flannel plaid that I'm dying to make into a dress. The fabric doesn't sound interesting at all but it is all about nostalgia. Back in the day when a was a young gal one of my favourite dresses was a blue plaid dress that I picked up from Le Chateau.

I wore that dress to pieces, literally. Well, when I stumbled across a bolt of fabric that reminded me of my much loved and worn dress I snatched up about four metres. This was quite a few months ago. And since then I have been searching for the perfect shirtdress pattern that is worthy of the plaid fabric. This is the winner.

Yesterday, can you believe, I was ready to settle on McCall's 4769. I wasn't thrilled about it but there were some positive reviews for the McCall's pattern that pushed me to that decision. Well, at the fabric store they didn't have my size. How lucky was that!

Today, I stumbled across this beautiful shirtdress pattern. Lady luck is still on my side today because it is in my size. It rarely happens that I fall head-over-heels for a pattern that is also in my size. It was meant to be, don't you think?

Well, that is all that is new in sewing news today.

Happy Sewing!