November in Review...

Sewing

Most of the sewing finish off this month has been charity sewing or gifted items.  Nine hats were sewn for the church.  The scarves and black hat were gifted.  

Also gifted was the blue and white cotton knit top.  The rest of this month's sewing was for moi, mostly to replace items that no longer fit or were given away.  

Stash busting

This month: 9.9 metres of fabric, 2.6 metres of elastic, 2.2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape, 1.4 metres of interfacing and several spools of thread were stash busted.  All of the patterns that were used for sewing these projects were previously loved patterns.  The pattern for the skirt, out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5790 was a recently added pattern in my current size but has been sewn many times over the years.  

What's Next?  

I promise, I'll sew some new-to-me patterns.  That's all that I'm willing to reveal at the moment.  Stay tuned.  

And Happy Sewing!

Stash Busting: Wool Cardigan Sweater / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

 

If this cardigan looks familiar, it is likely because you have seen one like this before.  I made one, just like it, back in May.  And I recently gave it away to someone who needed a sweater with loose fitting sleeves.  

I missed that sweater.  It was made with out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192.  That is why I made another one.  The first version I made, I mentioned that I would go down to a size small if I made it again, but I didn't this time.  This one is, again, a size medium because the wool knit fabric that I used did shrink a bit even though it was pre-treated.  I thought I would be on the safe side because I'm also revisiting the same fabric.  

I picked this fabric at Marshall's / Northwest Fabrics years ago.  It was what some call "deadstock" fabric.  I was told it came from a dress shop that went out of business and they were selling the fabrics for $3.99 / metre but if whatever was on the bolt was purchased, it would be sold for 99￠ / metre.  

Well, I bought what was on the bolt.  It's hard to find wool knit here, despite our cold winters.  And you don't see prices like that, even back then, except in this case.  I've made a few projects (dresses, socks, tuques and sweaters) over the years with this wool, it's lovely.  And so warm for winter clothing.  

The pattern, OOP Kwik Sew 4192, is an easy and quick make.  I actually do not have the original pattern.  I traced the pattern for the short cardigan before letting go of the pattern.  I do recommend it if you and Kwik Sew 4192 happen to cross paths.  It's a project that a beginner can easily whip up.  The only alteration to the pattern was shortening the sleeve length about an inch.  The cardigan was finished with a machine rolled hem done on my Janome serger.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit / Lightning bolt stitch

Seam finish:  Serged 

Fabric:  1.6 metres 

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, assorted objects used as pattern weights, pins, pin cushions, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Pretty Warm in Pink: The Littlest Studio Tuques

This is a continuation of the charity sewing project that I am working on for the church.  I had a pink turtleneck dress that was a bit snug and even though it was in otherwise fine condition it made me sad that it wasn't get used over the winter.  I feel good that I was able to harvest the fabric to sew three new tuques.  

The other side of the tuques are sewn with a jogger's fleece that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many moons ago when I was looking for a wind blocking fabric for a winter coat.  

Project Details

Seams:  Serged and the sewing machine's knit stitch

Fabric:  One upcycled dress + 0.6 metres 

Pattern:  Free downloadable tuque pattern from The Littlest Studio

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, clapper (used as a weight), scissors, pins, Janome serger, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, pin cushion and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash Busting: Knit Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

Another request for a cotton knit t-shirt came across the cutting table.  Since this project became a go-to item, I am revisiting the pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372.  

OOP Simplicity 2372 belongs in the hall of fame for sewing patterns as it's been a much-loved pattern over the years.  This is a well-drafted pattern and an easy project to sew.  The pleats on the sleeve and front are quite nice.  The pleats are difficult to make out with this fabric in this photo.  

The blue and white printed fabric is a 97% cotton and 3% spandex knit that I found in the discount section at Fabricland.  It was pre-treated with a wash cycle and dried in the dryer.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Interfacing:  0.4 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measure gauge, scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

And Then There Were Two: The Littlest Studio's Tuque

It turned out that there was enough left-over fabric with some careful pattern placement to sew one more tuque.  Both will be donated.  

Project Details

Seams:  Serged and knit stitch

Seam finish:  N/A

Fabric:  Scrap busted

Pattern:  The Littlest Studio free downloadable toque pattern

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, clapper (used as a weight), Janome serger, tweezers, threads, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Knit Sweater and Tuque: OOP Simplicity 8529 and The Littlest Studio Tuque Patterns

This sweater is made with a tried and true (TNT) pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8529.  I actually picked up this fabric with thoughts of sewing a tunic with Vogue 1914 but after reading some reviews, I changed plans towards a pattern and fit I trust.  This wasn't fabric I wanted to use to test out a new pattern.  

I actually picked up this fabric with thoughts of sewing something to go with these pants.  The brown tweed used for the pants has pink and white specks.  And this pink knit has printed little brown horse.  I thought it would be a cute match-up.  I totally disregarded the fact that I once vowed to stop wearing petroleum-based fabric.  It is a 100% polyester knit.  My bad.  

I'm not expecting this fabric to perform well.  I'm expecting that it may start pilling during the winter and I do have a sweater shaver near if that happens.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dried in the dryer.  It did lose much of its original body and has more drape post-washing.  

And it was a pain to sew.  Even though I changed the needle, used a knit stitch on the sewing machine and used polyester thread, it did not sew well.  I wouldn't recommend this fabric.  Sorry Fabricland, this fabric is not a winner.  Do I have buyer's remorse on this fabric?  Yes.  But I also like the final outcome and hopefully, I'll enjoy wearing this one more than I did sewing it.  

There was a wee bit of fabric left-over and made a matching tuque.  I cut this one a wee bit smaller than The Littlest Tuque pattern, it fits me better.  I like the slouchy style of this hat in this fabric.  It won't keep me warm during a prairie winter but it is cute to wear indoors with the matching sweater or in the seasons before and after winter.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit stitch on the sweater, serged on the tuque

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.2 metres

Patterns:  OOP Simplicity 8529 and The Littlest Studio Toque pattern

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, clapper (for weight) pins, pin cushion, scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, universal sewing machine needle, screwdriver, threads, tweezers, Janome serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tea, heating pad, a nap or two and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Half Slip / OOP Butterick 5790

Wearing a knit skirt with tights, I quickly came to the realization that I need to wear a slip if I'm going to continue wearing dresses and skirts over the winter.  It's all about controlling the seasonal static and clinging that happens when I wear tights or pantyhose.  This is a sewing project that I've put off for so long that it's beyond stupid.  

The pattern used was not designed as a slip pattern, but it did have the shape I was looking for, so I went with out-of-print Butterick 5790.  The waistline was adjusted to accommodate a smaller width elastic.  The side seams were sewn with the serger only.  The casing was formed with the knit stitch on the sewing machine and the hemline was finished with the serger's rolled hem feature.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades.  It was slippery to cut but easy to sew.  It was pretreated years ago.   I found it in the discounted section of the fabric store and picked it up for $1/metre.  Sometimes, I'm so happy that I have a stash.  And even happier that I stash busted this fabric into something I need.  

 

Project Details

Seams:  Serged (casing was stitched with the sewing machine's knit stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  1 metre - 1/8" elastic

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, clapper (for weight), pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, tweezers, screwdriver, measuring gauge, measuring tape and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Tuques Not Toques

These reversible tuques will be donated to the church to be distributed to those in need.  There was a request for knitters and crocheters to create some winter hats and scarves.  I can't knit or crochet to save my life, but I can sew.  

They are created with The Littlest Studio's "toque" tuque pattern.  It's a free pattern.  The red ones are made with red sweatshirt fleece left over from this dress, jacket and kid's top projects. The reverse side is a gray jogger's fleece left over from this jacket project.   The blue ribbed knit fabric was left over from yesterday's skirt project and the gray jogger's fleece.  

Project Details

Seams:  Serged and knit stich

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres (for all four)

Pattern:  The Littlest Studio free downloadable pattern

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, pin cushion, paper scissors, printer, tape, Janome serger, threads, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, hand sewing needle and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Knit Skirt / OOP Butterick 5790

Out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5790, circa 1998, has been a much-loved pattern since it first came into my collection decades ago.  Even though I out-grew the original pattern many moons ago, I held onto the pattern and tried to add ease to the skirt pattern piece over the years.  But I never got around to trying to grade the pattern pieces for the top.  So, you can imagine how thrilled I was to find a vintage uncut copy of this pattern in my current size.  This skirt is a nostalgic sewing project.  

And it's so crazy comfortable to wear.  I shortened it from being an ankle length skirt.  It is longer than a midi length.  

The fabric is a heavy cotton rib knit.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, pins, paper scissors, fabric scissors, thread clippers, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, tweezers, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stash busting: Winter Scarves / No Pattern Used

I'm in the process of cutting out a winter jacket.  It's a lesson in the benefits of having the proper tools or if you're lucky enough to have the right tools, the importance of keeping your tailor shears under lock and key.  But I digress.  

I took a break to give my hands a rest from cutting to make a couple of winter scarves.  With left over coat fabric, I was able to cut two lengths and with the help of the Janome Air Thread serger, I finished the sides with a rolled hem.  

These are a charity sewing project.  Easy peasy.  Now I should get back to cutting out that coat.  

Happy Sewing!

National Accessory Day!

Today marks National Accessory Day!  I do like accessories even though the Fall / Winter 2022 accessory trends are a hard pass.  According to Vogue these include

Mile High Boots

This trend is not designed for the under five foot crowd.  I'll leave the mile high boots to Puss in Boots.  

Double Bags

Wait is that a trend?  

Glitzy!  

Yeah.  No.  

Okay, that's enough, right?  Accessories are a personal stamp, my only advice would be wear what you want.  But if you want to check out the rest of the latest it-looks, visit Vogue's must-try accessory trends list.  

Happy National Accessories Day!

Stash busting: Wool Pull-on Pants / OOP Butterick 6717

The third time is the charm!  

I do like the design of these pants, a simple plain front, elastic back waist, pull-on pants.  I like this pattern enough that when I came across another copy for a larger size option, I jumped on it.  I was trying to solve the dip at the center back waist.    

The previous versions were sewn in a size medium with 1" extra ease added at the side seams.  This worked out to being the same extra amount at the side seam for the next size up but didn't match the changes in ease at the crotch curve and inner thigh.  So, I gave a size large a try.  And I'm happy that I did because the fit is spot on.  

I cut a size large straight out of the envelope, there was no additional ease added to this pair.  The only changes were leaving off the pockets (same as the other pairs) and inserting a 1 1/4" elastic instead of the one-inch recommended elastic.  Oh, wait!  I did remove 5/8" length from the left leg to compensate for a difference caused by scoliosis.  The hem was finished with a 1 1/2" blind hem.  

The stash busted 100% British wool fabric has been in the fabric collection for years.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer followed by a steam pressing to hopefully get all the shrinkage worked out.  I'll be hand washing these going forward.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres

Elastic:  0.6 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, regular presser foot, blind hem foot (for edge stitching and hem), Janome serger, threads, hand sewing needle (for hem basting), thread clippers, safety pins, iron, ironing board, coffee and audio book (This Changes Everything).  

Happy Sewing!