Sunday, 14 October 2012

Shirtdress Vintage vs. Modern

Sewing Advance 8436 I have to admit there is a feeling of déjà vu.  In some aspects, this Vintage pattern reminds me of the Simplicity 1880 dress made this summer.  

The bodice has tucks from the waistline in the front and back, just like Simplicity 1880. 

Both dresses have yokes with slight variations. Advance 8436 has a back yoke that meets with the front bodice piece at the shoulder. It also has easing that I do not typically find in modern sewing patterns. 

What's different between the vintage and modern shirtdress. Where to begin?  

The dart placement at the bust on the Advance pattern is quite interesting. The pattern has two bust darts from the side seam. The Simplicity pattern relied on bust ease through gathers from the front yoke. I do prefer the double breast darts. It is something that you don't see in modern designs.  

And I am aware that vintage patterns are sized differently than modern patterns. The Advance pattern is a size 16. The measurements on the pattern envelope correspond with modern Vogue measurements in a size 14. I thought I was safe to cut out my working muslin in a cotton paisley fabric without much concern. 

Oh my Betty!  

Did gals back in the 1950s have a waistline? Seriously.  

I would really need to do some serious waist training to fit into the Advance waistline design. This vintage pattern would be perfect for Betty Brosmer's 18" waistline. And Ms. Brosmer would be able to do up her shirtdress and still look smart.  

The pattern has ample room in the bust line. Not so in the waistline. I'm not of the corset wearing / waist training generation. Sew, I had to get to work. 

I let out slightly over three inches along the waistline by letting out the six tucks between the bodice front and back. There are still six tucks, but they are just 1/2 the width they were before. After doing so, I can breath! 

The skirt is my next issue.  Since I have let out the bottom portion of the bodice, the skirt pieces are being sewn with a 3/8" seam allowance.  

After that, I might have to do some sit-ups. Or I can just alter the pattern for the next time around. 

Until then I'm still going to work at it and hopefully I will have a wearable muslin.  

Happy Sewing!   

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