Special Occasion Dress (Adult Version): Butterick 6784

Now-a-days, I'm all about having enough ease in easy accessible clothing.  And I couldn't be more thrilled with how this project turned out.  A pull-over dress with a pocket is a win-win.  

The fabric is a teal coloured crepe that has been in my fabric stash for years, maybe even a decade or more?  Initially, I thought of using a linen but I really like the drape of this fabric with this design.  I'm sure this pattern will hit the cutting table again, so a linen version might happen one day.  But not soon since we're around the corner from the tail end of summer.  

Let's talk about the design!  It's a kAtheRine Tilton design from 2020.  The description from the pattern envelope states, "Misses' Dress."  Someone should fire the person in charge of writing descriptions because this design is so much more.  Even the description found on Pattern Review misses the mark, "round neck dress has small band collar and multiple asymmetrical seams.  Can be short sleeved with cuffs or sleeveless."  

I'm going to give it a try to describe how fabulous this design really is, here goes.  

In true Katherine Tilton fashion, Butterick 6784 is a dress that will remind you that a Tilton design is not only a creative force rarely matched by other designers but also a joy to sew.  Pieced pullover dress is perfect for colour blocking, working with stripes, or keeping it simple with a solid colours.  Fitted in the bust with a tulip shaping at the side seams.  It has two different styles of pockets, a left front pocket and a right side pocket.  The neckline has a petal shaped  collar piece that overlap in the back by end before meeting in the front.  The neckline if finished with a bias cut strip.  Sleeveless or elbow length sleeves with sleeve facing and slits.  Neckline facing and sleeve facing are topstitched in place.  Narrow top-stitched hem.  No length adjustment markings are noted on the pattern pieces.  

The only change I made was to leave off the right side pocket a decision based on the drape of the fabric.  And the hemline was treated with Knit 'N Stable tape and finished with an inch blind hem instead of the recommended narrow hem.    

Butterick 6784 has been in my pattern stash for a long time.  It has made it onto the cutting table a few times only to be replaced with some other project.  It was all about the challenge of cutting out the larger-than-my-cutting table, single layer, pattern pieces that stopped me in my tracks.  That is until something wonderful happened.  

An Instagram message appeared from Winnipeg Sews offering table legs to anyone willing to come and pick them up.  And even though I have a similar set, two more made this dress possible.  I was able to extend the size of my workspace to open up the fabric and cut all the single layers without working from the floor and risking knee and back pain.  I'm so thankful for this wonderful gift.  It truly was a gift.  Without it I don't believe I would have cut this project out.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Interfacing:  0.5 metres fusible

Label:  "New Threads" by KATM

Knit 'N Stable:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, extra set of adjustable table legs, folding table top, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle for basting, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Jean-a-ma-Jig, Janome serger, threads (finished off 5 - 100 yard spools), thread clippers, Dr. Ho pads and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

I love my new cutting table!

I was one of the lucky people who received a Friend and Family pass to shop at Ikea before their big grand opening this week. Let me just say, "I love Ikea."

Well, I loved them before but I really love them today. I have a new cutting/sewing table, thanks to Ikea. I finished setting it up this afternoon.

I don't have a fancy-dancy designated sewing room. Over the years, I've made do with a folding table or cutting fabric out on a cardboard mat on the floor. Not exactly the best scenario if you want to maintain a healthy back. And in recent years, I've been really feeling the back strain of cutting in those positions.

Enough about the past, today I'm looking forward to a bright and happy future. I picked out Vika Artur for my table legs. These are the perfect solution to my cutting issues because it allows the option to adjust the height of your table. And I do love the lower shelves where I can store fabric scraps. If I was a real keener I would have picked up some storage boxes. But I was a gal on a budget.

For the table top, I chose Vika Byske. I couldn't be happier with this table top with its nice smooth finish.

Now if I weren't on a budget and lived in a dream home with a large sewing room with lots of natural light, I would have picked up two of these Varde.

There were two Varde set up (back-to-back) in the showroom near the kitchen and dining room tables. They were the perfect height for my ideal cutting surface and the shelves and drawer space would be perfect for fabric and supplies. Aren't they perfect? My dream sewing room is a vision if nothing else.

But wait! Ikea has more for the sewing enthusiast. They have a textile department that I was dying to check out. And yes, I did stray from my budget and fall victim to my fabric addiction.

I picked up this 100% cotton. Oh my goodness, I can't tell you how great it is to have another fabric option in the city. The prints are fun and seriously, how could I resist this print? I'm thinking about making it into a shirt or maybe a dress for one of my friend's little girl. Hmm, I'm going to have to think about this one.  

Did I mention, I love Ikea?

Long Sleeve Cotton Knit Dress: SD Patterns

 

This is the second time I'm revisiting this asymmetrical maxi dress by SD Patterns.  Sadly, this pattern doesn't appear to be available anymore on their Etsy shop.  I will admit that I'm not a fan of taping together PDF patterns but I'm glad I still have this one.  It is one comfortable dress.  

My favourite detail on this dress pattern is the small section of gathering in the front right side curve seam.  The original design was for a turtleneck style.  I omitted this design feature and lowered the neckline one inch at the center front grading to the original shape at the shoulder seam.  

The neckline was folded over 5/8" and cover stitched.  

The pattern is designed for someone much taller than I am, so the sleeves were shortened by two inches and have a one inch hem.  The hem length was shortened, a lot.  More than five and a half inches for sure.  

The navy fabric was found in the stash and the anchor print fabric was left over from this project.  Both pieces are cotton knits and were pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before landing on the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (Lightening Bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  SD Patterns

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, extra set of table legs, folding table top, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, clapper and assorted heavy objects used as pattern weights, pins, pin cushion, measuring gauge, fabric scissor, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Cover Pro machine, thread clippers, threads, Janome serger, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Cotton Summer Dress: Butterick 6784

Ever since I made this version of Butterick 6784 last summer, I was smitten over this kAtheRine Tilton design with its Lagenlook vibe.  I longed for a casual cotton version for surviving in the prairie summer heat.  

This can now be checked off the want-to-sew list.  And just in time, as this dress will replace this once go-to summer dress that no longer fits.  But I digress. 

There were some small changes to Butterick 6784.  The right side pocket and petal shaped collar were omitted.  And the hem was shortened two inches.  Otherwise, it's a straight out of the envelope size medium.  The instructions are wonderful.  The pattern is well-drafted and came together without any issues.  Just one warning, many of the pattern pieces are cut one at a time on a single layer of fabric so you'll need space to to lay out the pattern pieces.  

The fabric is a printed cotton with a Moroccan or Portuguese tile vibe I couldn't resist.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 to 3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.2 metres fusible

Knit 'N Stable:  0.1 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784  

Sewing Label:  1 KATM "You Can't Buy This" label

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, additional table legs, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, thread clippers, heat pad for treating back pain and cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Black Wool Knit Palazzo Pants / OOP Vogue 1334

Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1334 is all about comfort.  It has an elastic waistband that I can slip over the lower part of the back brace.  And I love the wide legs on these palazzo style pants.  It has a retro vibe that remind me of late 1960's Italian fashion and designers like Emilio Pucci.  Minus the vibrant patterned fabric, this pair is all about comfort in a neutral colour.  

This is a Today's Fit pattern by Sandra Betzina.  They actually turned out better than I hoped after reading some insights found on Pattern Review.  I have no dislikes to report.  This is an easy pattern to sew and came together quickly.  I would absolutely recommend this pattern for a beginner willing to give sewing knits a try.  Sandra Betzina lays out different fabric, fit and fabric scenarios to help make this pattern a success.  I highly recommend reading the "Before You Start" section of the pattern instructions. 

The only changes to the pattern was to cut the pants at a size F with the exception of size G at the side seams which I graded back down to F by the notch marking.  I wanted the extra bit of ease since I will be wearing these over the brace.  The hem length were cut at the smallest size.  The elastic width that the pattern calls for is a one inch width but I thought that the crotch length looked too big so I went with a two inch wide elastic.  I could have gone with a one and a half inch elastic if there was any left in the stash.  I was working with what I have on hand.  I would like another pair of these pants (they are that comfortable!) and I do have some gray French terry to make another pair, so I think there might be an elastic run in the near future.  

The photo of my pants do look much wider than the photo on the pattern envelope.  I wonder if this a reflection of the "Make the legs narrower" instructions listed within the "Before You Start" section?  Or maybe the pants on the pattern photo were made in a woven fabric?  Sandra Betzina also outlines how to make the fabric switch.  I wish the patterns would mention what fabric was used in their samples.  Anyway, these are the only things that may explain why there appears to be a difference in the drape and width between this project and the sample photo on the pattern envelope.  

The fabric is a medium weight wool knit and it has a lovely drape.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels. 

Sewing IS Political

This is a Canadian made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies used to make these pants were found in the stash.  The medium weight merino wool is the same fabric used for this hooded scarf and has been in the stash for a couple of years prior to the convicted felon's tariff war.  It came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The Vogue pattern is a recent Etsy purchase from a Canadian reseller.  The threads are Gütermann Threads and have been in the stash for a long time, likely from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors are from Taiwan and were purchased from Fabricland.  The elastic is also came from Fabricland.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4.5 metres (this fabric was 110 cm wide)

Elastic:  1.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1334, circa 2012

Label:  1--"one off" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, cardboard cutting mat (for table extention), pins, wrist pin cushion, paper scissors, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, safety pin and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Top Five Lists: The 2023 Edition

The Top Five Sewing Bloopers

Plaid skirt with wide two-tired elastic waistband, circa September 2023.  Pattern:  The Assembly Line's Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt.  Sewing blooper:  not noticing the twisted elastic on the lower tier (oops!) until I put it on and then continued to wear it again before fixing it.  

Orange and beige dress.  Pattern:  Simplicity 9744, circa June 2023.  Sewing blooper:  The hem length was trimmed too short (oops!) and didn't feel comfortable to wear.  

Cotton pullover pleated top, circa May 2023.  Pattern:  Clochette by I AM Patterns.  Sewing blooper:  Cutting out the fabric before making a toile / muslin version first.  It is a beautiful pattern but on me the fit could be better if I just took the time to pay attention to the fit.  

Car coat, circa November 2023.  Pattern:  Out-of-print New Look 6074.  Sewing blooper:  I let this sit in an abandoned sewing project pile.  And thinking that I had all the pattern pieces cut I used the remainder of the fabric for hats and scarfs, only to realize that I did not cut out the front facing (oops!).  

Cotton knit pullover dress, circa August 2023.  Pattern:  Asymmetrical Dress by SD Patterns (an Etsy shop).  Sewing blooper:  Purchasing an on-sale PDF pattern while thinking that I could send it to a print shop.  It wasn't so, and I ended spending too much time printing and taping.    

The Top Five Sewing Room Tools 

Pinking shears.  There was some retro seam finishing done with pinking shears while the serger was in the repair shop.  

Safety pins.  There were twelve projects that needed elastic to be moved through casings.  And safety pins were more economical than investing in elastic threaders.  Twenty twenty-three was the year to make do and budget.  

A pair of table legs were a give-away item and came in handy for cutting out those large single layer pattern pieces from Butterick 6784.  

Spring hinge scissors.  I wouldn't have been able to do some sewing work while in a cast without this tool.  

Buttonhole cutter.  This little tool made the opening of the buttonhole on this coat possible.  

The Top Five Misses

These pants looked good hot off the sewing machine, but after several washes the fabric sort of lost its appeal.  Fabric can make or break a project.  I should have tested it first.  

Any tips for sewing waffle knit?  It was a sewing challenge that I did not master.  

Yeah sometimes those pieces of fabric that have been sitting folded up in the stash for decades have those fold lines that set in really good.  These pants were still worn for yard work.  

There is still some ponte knit lingering in the stash even though I vowed a few years ago to stick with natural fibre fabrics.  This didn't last long in my wardrobe.  It has zero warmth factor for a prairie winter.  

It just didn't work out.  

The Top Five Makes

Gifted pajama bottoms, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted pajama top, OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851.  Circa January 2023.  

Gifted boys' Super Mario shirt, OOP and vintage Butterick 2122.  Circa September 2023.  

Gifted boy's dinosaur shirt, McCall's 6972.  Circa July 2023.  

Gifted child's dress, OOP Vogue 9072.  Circa August 2023.  

Happy Sewing!  

Sew Grateful Reflection Post

As part of Sew Grateful Week, Debi over at My Happy Sewing Place is hosting Sew Grateful Day! And she had me thinking "what am I sew grateful for?" In no particular order here is my list:

• My Mom, my absolutely wonderful Mom, for introducing me to sewing. 
• The sewing community. The wonderful sewists (there are too many to name personally) that take the time to share their projects on their blogs and over at Pattern Review. It is great to read a review of a pattern and be inspired by someone's talent that they are willing to share with the rest of us. The sewing community is filled with generous people like Brenda over at Brenda's Sewing Nook who hosted a mega pattern give-away recently that had me squealing with delight.  
• My Janome sewing machine. I can unplug my cord to the foot peddle and use the off/on button on my sewing machine. I'm grateful for this feature when my knees are in pain.  
• The Ikea table legs with the adjustable height. My back and my knees are grateful for the ergonomic cutting surface.  
• Anne's weekly Wearable Wednesdays column. I look forward to Wednesdays just so I can visit her blog and she always starts my Wednesdays off with a smile and laugh. Actually, I love visiting her blog any day for a smile, chuckle and to admire her sewing talent. 
• Eye glasses. I wouldn't be able to sew without them.  
• The walking foot that came in the quilting accessory box with my sewing machine. I don't know how I even tried to sew knits without one. Love it!  
• Family. If it weren't for my family I wouldn't have a place to sew.
• The inventor of jean-a-jig. If only I discovered this little tool when I was sewing up Vogue 1263.
• Etsy! Oh my goodness, I can't believe I found one of my past favourite patterns, McCall's 8823, and the previously unknown, stunning Vogue 1985 over at Etsy.com. I'm happy to say they are part of my sewing stash waiting to be stitched up.  

I could go on and on but there is sewing to be done! I'm going to stop here and leave it as my Top Ten List. What about you? What makes your "sew grateful" list?  

Happy Sewing and Happy Sew Grateful Week!  

A Forgotten Project, Finally Finished: OOP Vogue 1325

In the progress of cleaning up my sewing space a few weeks ago, I discovered a forgotten sewing project.  It's a pair of pants cut from out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1325 in a beautiful wool suiting fabric.  These pants were cut with a little extra ease on the sides so I suspect that they were cut post-March 2020 when the pandemic pounds starting showing up.  But to be completely honest, I'm not sure when I first cut these out and stitched the front darts. 

If it were today, I don't believe I would have re-visited this pattern.  Instead, I would have reached for a pant pattern that has an elastic back and darted front.  And today, I'm glad that I found these already previously cut.  I forgot how much I like the fit and comfort of this design.  The extra ease added at the sides worked out perfectly in making these wearable today.  

I still love that this pants pattern has a raised waist.  It was released in 2012, a time when below waistline pants and skinny legs pants ruled the fashion landscape.  I also adore the semi-fitted and flared legs which add to the comfort level of this design.  Oh did I mention, it has pockets!  This pattern is a keeper.  I do have another copy of this pattern, uncut, that contains larger sizes if I ever need to go there.  I hope not, and actually hope that I see the day that these will one day be loose on me.  I'm working hard, watching what I eat and adding more exercise into my day.  

There was a hic-up along the way when I forgot how to sew a pant zipper despite having excellent instructions sitting on my sewing table.  What can I say, I must be out of practice.  It took a couple of days sit down and seam rip the stitches and mend my ways.  

The fabric is a beautiful find at the Mitchell Fabric closing sale.  I haven't seen this quality of fabric at a local brick-and-mortar store since Mitchell Fabric closed.  So I'm really glad that these worked out.

 

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finishes:  Seam edges are finished on the serger. 

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Zipper:  18 cm recycled regular zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1325 (Anne Klein New York designer pattern)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, pin cushions, sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, blind hem foot, zipper foot, thread clippers, scissors, iron, ironing board, serger, tweezers, threads, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, and a whole lot of procraftination before this project saw competition.  

Happy Sewing!

Wool Pants: Vogue 1642

I don't believe that because a pair of pants has an elastic waist or partially elasticized waist that style is sacrificed for comfort. Vogue 1642 puts that myth to rest. Although, I will admit that I feel like I'm wearing some pretty fancy pajama bottoms when I wear these. 

This pair is more fitted that the first version. I raised the crotch, which turned out to be too much for my liking.  I'll have to shorten it half way between the first version and this one or perhaps I'll use the crotch layout on the size medium now that I have the smaller combination of sizes.

The outer and inner legs were cut as a large and I have to admit that I feel that I could loose a couple of pounds for these to feel as comfortable as the linen pair. The legs feel loose enough, its around the abdomen and butt that I feel this version is too fitted. 

The fabric is a blue wool suiting that I picked up at the Mitchell closing sale a couple of years ago. It's lightweight enough to wear now and into the autumn months. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the dryer with a damp towel and on the delicate setting.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.1 metres 100% wool

Interfacing:  0.2 metres fusible

Elastic:  1 metre 1/2" wide elastic

Pattern:  Vogue 1642 (Fall 2019 collection)  

Additional Tools & Supplies:   Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, safety pins, sewing machine, serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, threads, hand sewing needle and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Gift Sewing: OOP McCall's 7367

I thought my days of sewing vintage and out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 were well behind me.  All my friends are well past the days of starting families and I no longer have workplace baby showers to attend.  I was wrong, there will always be beautiful babies to welcome into the world.  And for this occasion here is the latest baby jumpsuit.  

This is such a cute pattern.  Sewing vintage and OOP McCall's 7367 puts a smile on my face.  Although, working that ribbing around the armholes and legs can prove to be a bit of a challenge.  This time I didn't have to struggle as my cotton ribbing had ample stretch.  It's a well-drafted pattern. 

The fabric is a cotton sweatshirt fleece that I has been in the stash for so long that I don't recall where I found it.  It is left-over fabric from this project.  It was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  The cotton ribbing was a recent purchase that was not pretreated before cutting out the cuff pieces.  My bad.  I know that if I were to shop for cotton sweatshirt fabric like this today, I would leave the store empty handed.  Fabricland is selling cotton sweatshirt fabric for $50 / metre and now-a-days it rarely goes on sale.  Let's just say that I'm so grateful this fabric was in the stash because it's really cozy and cute.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to come from the work table as the convicted felon and his cohort down south escalates his global tariff war and annexation rhetoric.  As inflation is again creeping upwards, it's nice to know that there is a stash to draw from and avoid some of the higher costs that are hitting the stores.    

The fabric was in the stash from non-tariff days.  The snaps were from the stash and were lingering in there for years.  The twill tape is a recent purchase from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The out-of-print vintage pattern has been in the stash for over three decades and when I pulled it out my heart sank at the discovery that the back pattern piece was missing.  I was thrilled to find another copy of McCall's 7367 online find from an Ontario reseller.  Although, the pattern is a McCall's pattern and was originally printed in the U.S.A., no funds from this purchase supported the convicted felon's economy.  Same goes for the U.S.A. made Fray Check used on the tie ends as it was in the stash for years.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company and was purchased directly from the company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.9 metres + 0.3 metres ribbing

Twill tape:  0.5 metres

Snap:  1 medium sized 

Pattern:  vintage and OOP McCall's 7367, circa 1994

Label:  1 "P.S. I LOVE YOU" label from KATM

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, AirThread 2000D serger, hand sewing needle, tailor wax, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board, tweezers, lint brush and threads.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

French Terry Sweatpants: Vogue 8909

Ever since I made a pair of sweatpants using Vogue 8909, I wanted to sew another pair.  

The only thing that stalled this project was searching the stash for appropriate fabric.  There is some fabric that will work but the colours (light purple and yellow) are not ones I prefer for pants.  And then I found a navy coloured fabric scrap left over from this cardigan and these pants.  The sweet thing is that there was enough left-over fabric to sew myself another pair of sweatpants.  And it felt good to use up this last piece of French terry fabric.   

The fabric was previously pre-washed and ready to cut.  This French Terry, from Marshall Fabrics, was a joy to sew.  This fabric has more body than the bamboo terry used for the first version.  Both were wonderful fabrics for this project but they do have a distinctive look and drape.   Navy coloured thread was scarce around the workspace, but I made do with what leftover spools I could scrounge up.  Actually, with all the time spent threading the machines and filling bobbins I am surprised there was enough navy thread to complete the project.  Add that to the blessing list.  It was a struggle stretching the cuffs far enough to fit into the pant legs.  Instead, the pant legs were gathered to fit the cuffs.  Marshall Fabrics sells matching ribbing to go with their selection of sports knits.  I just didn't pick any up since the initial thoughts for this fabric was to use it for a Marcy Tilton dress and jacket, OOP Vogue 9358.  Maybe I will use the yellow French terry for OOP Vogue 9358?   

Vogue 8909 is a keeper.  The waistline on the first version was raised but that wasn't necessary.  I cut the pattern with this change and then removed all of the addition except for a quarter inch during the sewing process.  Love the fit, on me it does not sit below the waist line as described on the pattern envelope.  Add this to the blessing list as well.  The other change I made on the previous version was shortening one leg length.  Since I now have lifts for my footwear I won't need to make this length adjustment moving forward.  That leaves the question, what to do with all those hem adjustments on all those previous made pants?  But that is a for another time.  Moving on.  There's so much to appreciate with this design from the extended front seams, pockets and the fit.  It's a well-drafted pattern.  

Hmmm, I don't know what else to say about this project other than I know I will get a lot of use out of this pair of sweatpants.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.6 metres

Elastic:  2.85 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 8909

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, measuring gauge, Janome serger, safety pins, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Phew!

Vogue patterns released their fall line last night and I can say that my wallet is safe. Phew! There is only one pattern that I wouldn't mind making.  

Vogue 9135

It is a lovely unlined jacket with side pockets by Kathryn Brenne. The description says that it has a hook and eye closing but I think I'll change it up with fabric covered snaps. I just have to wait for the online sale and then another four weeks for it to get here by snail mail. I should have my sewing table cleared of all the on-going projects by then.  

I can't believe I'm not tempted by any of the Marcy Tilton patterns.  

Vogue 9130

Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9130 reminds me of many top patterns already sitting in my stash. I love the fabric the sample is made in though.  

Vogue 9140

And even though Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9140 looks very comfortable the pants actually remind me of something I would wear to the gym before I would wear out in the public sphere. I think this is the first time I'm not smitten over any Tilton patterns. And my wallet lets out a sigh of relief.  

Vogue 1464

Sandra Betzina's Vogue 1446 pants pattern seems a wee-bit out-of-place for the fall release, doesn't it? The design reminds me of sailor style pants and styled with the striped tee-shirt I would associate this with a spring line. I did notice that the pant legs are on the narrow side and the waistlines are falling back below the waist. Not a style that works for me. Again, phew!  

There are lots of loose-fitting jackets and no capes. I guess capes have become passé for Fall 2015. Have you checked out the Vogue Fall collection? Any favourites?  

Happy Sewing!  

  

My Greatest Sewing Challenge?

My greatest sewing challenge would be creating a well fitting pair of pants. A pair of pants that has a tailored look and no elastic waist.

Armed with Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers' Classic Tailoring Techniques:  A Construction Guide for Women's Wear, I'm almost ready. I think I'm almost ready to tackle this challenge.

The last pair of pants that I made I used an Issey Miyake pattern. In general, despite the fitting issues, I did like the pattern. I am quite smitten with that curved waistband. If it just sat a wee bit higher in the front and if I didn't have hips, it would be perfect.

Vogue 1325

A sales lady at my local fabric store tried to convince me that Burda patterns make the best fitting pants patterns. I'm torn on whether or not that is true. Any opinions?

I do not have a great deal of experience sewing pants or sewing with Burda patterns. I haven't had the greatest fit with Burda patterns with the items that I've made in the past. I tend to stick with Vogue patterns because I like the fit. But I tend to sewing mostly dresses, shirts and skirts. I've only sewn two pant patterns; a Claude Montana pattern back in the 1980s and the Issey Miyake pattern this past summer.

This time around I am going to work with an Anne Klein pattern, Vogue 1325. I chose this pattern because I like where the waistline sits on the pants. A semi-fitted, slightly fitted flared pants pattern that has a raised waist. Maybe it will make my short legs look elongated?

Vogue 1325

Cabrera's Classic Tailoring Techniques will help with addressing some of my fitting issues:

1. I've been blessed with womanly hips and commercial patterns tend to be too tight across the hips. Evident in the Issey Miyake pants that I made. 
2. A smaller waist compared to my hips. 
3. I do not have a flat back side like those Vogue pattern models.  Seriously, when are they going to use more women with real curves to model their pants? And could they model a pair of pants with a waistband?   
4. One hip is higher than the other.  
5. Protuding stomach. What can I say, I like my sweets more than I like to exercise. 
6. One leg that is shorter than the other.   

Vogue 1003

No wonder I have fitting issues! This time I'm going to sew a muslin since I decided to ignore the sales lady's advice to purchase the fitting shell pattern. Do I really need a fitting shell pattern? Well, I still have some reading and research to do before I crack open this pattern. Never mind the fact that I have to return the book to the library next week. Maybe next month, I can get started on this project after I clear off all the sewing already on my sewing table.

Have you found a pant pattern that you recommend? Any advice? And what about the Burda vs. Vogue debate? Do you know the difference that these pattern companies offer?  

Happy Sewing!