This pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057, has been a go-to for t-shirts so, I thought I would revisit it to make a more fitted version of an undershirt to wear under the scoliosis back brace. Just a side note: this pattern was re-issued as Vogue 1733. The first step is to create a pattern piece for the underarm padding and adjust the neckline.
The back brace comes too close to my underarm area and without padding, the brace gives me abrasion wounds. Not fun, but it worked on the previous top so I'm recreating it here as well. I made the pattern piece covering the front and back pieces under the arm, but then I had to cut it where the side seams were to construct it the way I wanted.
The shoulder seams were sewn right sides together but the armhole and side seams were sewn wrong sides together. I did this so that I won't have to deal with any uncomfortable bulky seams against my skin while wearing this t-shirt with the scoliosis back brace. The neckline was raised one inch all around and then top-stitched with a 5/8" hem around the neck.
This time with this pattern, I did not add any extra ease, it is a straight size medium with no other adjustments. It fits perfect, even the sleeve length. I really wanted a undershirt with sleeves. It's winter and the one I previously made with short sleeves is not keeping my arms warm enough and I'm not brave enough to throw a sweater over the brace with all the metal and velcro.
Notice that little blue square near the hemline. It's not decorative. I noticed that there was a flaw in the fabric half way through the construction process.
The "made it" label by KATM is to patch up the hole. It really wasn't necessary because once I put the brace on, it would be covered. I like the way it turned out though and I am glad I patched it up.
I'm not disappointed with the fabric even with this small hole, I picked it up for $3.00 (Cdn) a metre. A real deal considering that it is a French terry. There are some other flaws in the yardage but I can work around it. I really like the comfort provided with the French terry fabric I used in the last version and since I have a lot of it remaining in the stash, I'm will also be revisiting the same fabric. The plan is to make more now that I found a pattern that is the perfect fit.
Project details
Seams: Serged and lightening bolt (knit stitch)
Seam finish: Serged
Fabric: 1.4 metres (1 1/2 yards)
Label: 1--KATM "MADE IT" label
Pattern: OOP Vogue 9057, circa 2014
Additional Tools and Supplies: Folding table, fabric scissors, measuring tape, pins, paper, black fine tip marker, paper scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, and a few breaks.
Happy Sewing!
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