Fabric Focus: Linen

Photo credit:  Baird McNutt Irish Linen.  The Flax Plant.

Linen is a fabric woven from the flax plant and is often used for church linens, household goods and clothing.  It has a long history and it can be argued that it's the oldest fabric.  Archeologists discovered wild flax fragments that had been twisted and dyed in pre-historic cave dwellings in the Caucasus mountains.  These are estimated to be over 30 000 years old.  Linen is mentioned in the bible and is considered the symbol of purity and holiness.  And it's still treasured today.  It's a wonderful fabric to sew.  But as all fabrics, there are pros and cons depending on how you want to use this fabric.    

The Many Positive Aspects of Linen

1.  It's a natural fibre which gives linen inherent hypoallergenic features.  This fabric is a good choice for people with sensitive skin and / or allergies.  Linen is gentle on the skin and it is a breathable fabric.  This breathability allows for proper airflow reducing the accumulation of sweat and bacteria growth.  It also wicks moisture away from the skin aiding in the prevention of bacteria, fungi and dust mites.  Let's just call it a super hero fibre for those of us who are prone to respiratory or skin conditions.  

2.  Just like people, linen improves with age.  The fibres soften over time, maturing into a softer and more comfortable fabric.  This desirable durability makes this a sustainable textile.  Linen is an investment that becomes better over time and eliminates the need for frequent replacements.  Linen is a super hero fibre for the environment as well.  

3.  Let's talk about linen's ability for temperature control and regulation feature.  Most often, people assume that linen is a warm weather textile but linen is suitable for all year use.  The natural fibres provide insulation in cooler weather.  Layering linen provides a comfortable barrier that traps heat without overheating.  In the summer, linen is a good choice for it's breathability.  Linen wicks moisture and allows for airflow.  

4.  Longevity is a something that is well noted with linen, out shining other natural fibres like cotton.  Linen garments can survive frequent washing and wear while keeping their structure.  Household linens can last for decades.  Compared to synthetic fabrics that weaken over time and washing, linen improves with age (see number 2).   It's long lifespan makes linen a cost-effective investment.  

What About the Cons Associated with Linen?

5.  Let's start with the cost.  In the age of inflation, global conflicts, fast-fashion and the race to the bottom, natural fibre fabrics like linen are getting harder to A) find and B) afford.  There seems to be a larger selection of linen blends at the fabric store to reduce costs / maximize profits.  If you're looking for 100% linen, be prepared to pay a premium in today's market.  The durability, breathability and the other positive features does offset the upfront expense over time.  But in today's economic climate the upfront cost may be hard to swallow.  

6.  If wrinkles bother you, maybe this might not be the fabric for you.  Personally, I think it's part of it's charm and beauty.    

7.  Linen demands your time in it's care.  Linen should be washed in cold water with gentle detergents.  Dry your linen with caution because high heat can cause the fibres to shrink.  I suggest hanging to dry.  Avoid chemicals like bleach.  Let's talk about ironing, this need to iron linen if you want to remove the wrinkles can be a real turn off for some.

It really is a wonderful fabric to sew.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.