Tuesday, 21 November 2017

The Perfect Merger: Vogue 9268 & 9057

I first made Kathryn Brenne's dress, Vogue 9268, a few months ago and it has been on my wish list to make another. I love how comfortable this dress is to wear but even though I like the drape of the ITY knit, I really wanted one in a cotton jersey. The ITY knit was my toile before I cut into this fabric. Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9057 came into play when I was thinking about what I wanted to change. On Vogue 9268 the armhole sits a little low, almost a dropped armhole. It wasn't a big deal but while ironing my tee-shirt (yeah, I do that) it hit me that I like how the armhole and even the modified neckline fits. I wondered if these two pattern could work together.  

It turned out to be the perfect merger.  

I started out with matching the point where the underarm and side seam meet and then folded under and out of the way the bodice from the dress. From there I was able to cut the armhole, shoulder and modified neckline from Vogue 9057 and kept the shape of the side and skirt seams. This way I was able to achieve the rounded neckline that I preferred. The sleeve pattern that I used came from Vogue 9057 and there wasn't much difference besides the armhole shape. I also, as on the toile, eliminated the centre seams opting for the dress to be cut on the fold. The sleeve length was extended 1 1/2" and the skirt was shortened an inch.  

Instead of cutting the interfacing pattern pieces from Vogue 9268, I chose Knit-N-Stable tape to stabilize the hems and neckline edges.  

I can't be more thrilled with how it turned out. The fabric is a batik cotton jersey that I found at Northwest / Marshall fabrics and much to my surprise it is wider than 150 cm. It is the perfect width (170 cm) for the larger sizes as it can easily accommodate the full drape of the skirt. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer prior to cutting it out. It will be washed in cold water and after this I will just hang it to dry as I don't want to risk it shrinking any more.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  3.8 metres

Fusible tape:  3 metres

Sewing machine needle:  1 Ball point needle

Patterns:  Vogue 9268 and Vogue 9057

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, lint brush, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!  

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