July in Review...

July certainly flew by!  On the sewing front there was actually some sewing.  

I'm counting this as complete but to be honest, I still have to hem the wool pants and I have to make some adjustments on the pajama bottoms.  

Output

Fabric:  8.1 metres (July) + 36.1 metres (previous months) + 1 recycled skirt (previous months) = 44.2 metres + 1 recycled skirt

Zippers:  1 - 20 cm regular zipper (July) + 1 55 cm zipper = 2

Buttons:  5 (July) + 18 (previous months = 23 

Seam binding:  0 metres (July) + 10 metres (previous months) = 10 metres

Knit 'N Stable Tape:  0 metres (July) + 9.5 metres (previous months) = 9.5 metres

Twill Tape:  0 metres (July) + 0.5 metres (previous months) = 0.5 metres

Spools of Thread:  2 - 100 metre spools + 1 000 metre spool (July) + 2 800 metres (previous months) = 3 900 metres

Sewing Machine Needles:  0 (July) + 5 (previous months) = 5

Hand Sewing Needles:  0 (July) + 1 (previous months) = 1

Sewing Label:  0 (July) + 1 (previous months) = 1

Input

Fabric:  21.6 metres (July) + 38.7 metres (previous months) = 52.3 metres

Sewing Machine Needles:  0 (July) + 3 (previous months) = 3

Buttons:  0 (July) + 10 (previous months) = 10

Sewing Patterns:  0 (July) + 6 (previous months) = 6

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Rescue Sewing (or Messy Mending): OOP Vogue 9217

Even though I made a new pair of flannel pajamas, I'm not quite ready to let go of the old pair just yet.  I thought if I just mend them I can get a couple more months out of them.  

So I got out the Fray Check and got to work on the edges of the frayed fabric.  And as I worked, I noticed more frayed spots along the interior and exterior sides of the waistband.  

And I questioned if it was even worth it to continue.  

I found holes and fraying fabric previously backed with small pieces of interfacing near the pocket opening.  Ah, why didn't I interface the waistband?  That would surely given it more strength. 

Perhaps, that's a lesson for the next pair of me-made pajamas.  

For now, it's held together with some more thread.  

Happy Sewing!

New Flannel Pajama Set: Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217

Continuing on the theme of mending and practical sewing, it has become apparent that I will soon need to repair and replace some pieces.  My current favourite flannel pajama set is starting to fall apart.  The fabric is tearing at stress points near the pockets and a big hole is found in the waistband on the pajama bottoms.   I'm going to mend them, of course, and try to extend the life of them as long as I can.  But I think it's time to consider a back-up pair of flannel sleepwear before winter arrives.  

The pajama set is created with my go-to patterns, Butterick 6296 for the top and out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  For the top, I omitted the chest pocket, piping and shortened the sleeve length.  And I cut out an extended back facing.  And I added an additional button to the four suggested on the pattern.  The pants were lengthened and the curved hemline was straightened along with the additional ease added to the sides.  

I almost switched pajama top patterns to OOP McCall's 3445 when I couldn't find the pattern pieces in the proper pattern envelope.  I found the missing pattern pieces in the Vogue pattern while doing a mad search of the sewing space.  It made me realize how much I would miss this pattern if I truly lost any of the pieces.  It really is a keeper.  

Before cutting into the flannel, the fabric was pre-treated to prevent any post-sewing shrinkage.  A tumble through the wash cycle, some time in the dryer, followed by a steam pressing at the ironing board.   

I picked up this flannel at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics and I can say that it doesn't feel anywhere near as strong as the flannel pajamas they will be replacing.  I feel a connection to the grandmother in Gabrielle Roy's novel The Road Past Altamont when I think this about the cloth I'm sewing.  It's the fun colourful print, not the strength of the flannel that seduced me in choosing this flannel.  

Nothing difficult about sewing this project.  It's something that would be a great beginner project because both patterns are well-drafted and come together without any problems.  The instructions in these patterns are well written and illustrated.  

The buttons and the one inch wide elastic are recycled from other garments.  Oh goodness, I really do feel like that grandma character in Roy's novel!  It must be a Canadian prairie gal thing.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finishes:  Interior seams are finished on the serger.  Hems were machine top-stitched in place.  

Fabric:  5.2 metres

Interfacing:  1 metre (fusible)

Buttons:  5 recycled buttons

Elastic:   0.8 metres

Patterns:  Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, water, clapper, hand sewing needle, tweezers, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, regular foot, serger, threads for the machines and hand stitching, hand sewing needle, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, safety pins and coffee.    

Happy Sewing!  

A Forgotten Project, Finally Finished: OOP Vogue 1325

In the progress of cleaning up my sewing space a few weeks ago, I discovered a forgotten sewing project.  It's a pair of pants cut from out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1325 in a beautiful wool suiting fabric.  These pants were cut with a little extra ease on the sides so I suspect that they were cut post-March 2020 when the pandemic pounds starting showing up.  But to be completely honest, I'm not sure when I first cut these out and stitched the front darts. 

If it were today, I don't believe I would have re-visited this pattern.  Instead, I would have reached for a pant pattern that has an elastic back and darted front.  And today, I'm glad that I found these already previously cut.  I forgot how much I like the fit and comfort of this design.  The extra ease added at the sides worked out perfectly in making these wearable today.  

I still love that this pants pattern has a raised waist.  It was released in 2012, a time when below waistline pants and skinny legs pants ruled the fashion landscape.  I also adore the semi-fitted and flared legs which add to the comfort level of this design.  Oh did I mention, it has pockets!  This pattern is a keeper.  I do have another copy of this pattern, uncut, that contains larger sizes if I ever need to go there.  I hope not, and actually hope that I see the day that these will one day be loose on me.  I'm working hard, watching what I eat and adding more exercise into my day.  

There was a hic-up along the way when I forgot how to sew a pant zipper despite having excellent instructions sitting on my sewing table.  What can I say, I must be out of practice.  It took a couple of days sit down and seam rip the stitches and mend my ways.  

The fabric is a beautiful find at the Mitchell Fabric closing sale.  I haven't seen this quality of fabric at a local brick-and-mortar store since Mitchell Fabric closed.  So I'm really glad that these worked out.

 

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finishes:  Seam edges are finished on the serger. 

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Zipper:  18 cm recycled regular zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1325 (Anne Klein New York designer pattern)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, pin cushions, sewing machine, screwdriver, walking foot, blind hem foot, zipper foot, thread clippers, scissors, iron, ironing board, serger, tweezers, threads, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, and a whole lot of procraftination before this project saw competition.  

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Blooper #974,326

Just when I was feeling pretty good about the progress on these pants, I realized I did this sewing blooper.  

Good grief!  Where is the seam ripper?  And how did I not realize this mistake until now?  Lol.  

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Would you believe that I walked into a fabric store?  

I had a gift certificate in my wallet.

And walked out with nothing in my hands.  

Nothing.  

Mind you I would have picked up Wonder Tape if they had any in stock.  

I was tempted by a red twill fabric I saw on sale.  

I thought it would make a cool denim style jacket.

Until I realized that the buttons I wanted would cost a small fortune.  

More than double the cost of the fabric.  

When did buttons get so expensive?  

It kind of turned me off.  

So I put the red twill fabric back.  

It was an impulse project anyway.  

I don't need a red denim style jacket.  

Besides, I need to use what is already in my fabric stash.  

No red, but I do think there is some black cotton twill that might work.

If I ever get my sewing mojo back.  

I'm trying to clear / clean up the sewing work area.  

And I found a pair of wool pants I cut out months ago.  

It might have been cut last year.

Forgot about that project.  

Last year was kind of a blur.  

The front darts were already sewn.  

And a pocket facing pinned in place.  

I rethreaded the the sewing machine with matching thread.  

And sewed the pinned pocket facing.  

That's about as far as I got.  

One pinned pocket facing.  

These pants might take a few more months to complete.  

If I keep up this pace.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

World Mask Week: Keep On Wearing and Caring

 

This week (July 12 to 18, 2021) is being marked by the global campaign promoting the continued use of wearing a face mask, handwashing and physical distancing even after being vaccinated.  Do it to protect the population that have not yet been or can not be vaccinated and those who still do not have access to the vaccine.  

In the meantime, if you're looking for a recommendation and want to keep on sewing face masks here are my favourite face mask patterns.  

The Alpat Face Mask pattern.  

Dhurata Davies Face Mask pattern.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Visible Mending: For the Love of Plaid

I have this ready-to-wear (RTW) plaid shirt that has been in my wardrobe for many, many moons.  It's been altered about eight years ago and it's still gets worn often.  

It's really comfortable and I like the look of the bias cut plaid and pin-tucking.  One day I'll have to painstakingly take it apart to create a pattern of this top.  But until then I had to attend to a couple of thread bare spots on the left back shoulder area.  For this I thought to do some visible mending.  I've been admiring the projects found on this site and thought I'm not going to try to hide that this is a much-loved shirt that I'm not ready to part with, I'm going to showcase it.  

And I'm good with it.  

Happy Sewing!

Rescue Sewing: OOP Vogue 9060 Skirt Minus Vogue 1312 Bodice

Six years ago, I merged two favourite patterns to create this dress.  Since that time, I've outgrown it and last year with the pandemic and the addition of pandemic pounds, it didn't even see the light of day.  

Since I still wear the first Vogue 9060 skirt I've made, I thought I would try to rescue this by changing it back to a skirt.  

I cut the bodice off at the seam line, serged the edge, turned it over, pressed and then sewed a casing for an elastic waistline.  

It's a nice light cotton knit skirt that I can add to the rotation of summer clothes I can wear this year.  And it feels good to save another item.  

Happy Sewing!

Rescue Sewing: Adding a Ruffle to McCall's 7630

In a short span of three years I managed to outgrow this top thanks to pandemic pounds and my sweet tooth.  It still fits in the sleeves and bust area.  It was the hem line that became a little too snug for comfort.  

I had three options, put it in the donate pile, exercise like I've never exercised before, or diet.  Or I could try to save it.  Considering that this top is made out of raw silk it would hurt to part with it.  Luckily, I had left over fabric from the original project.  

The original hemline was straightened and then an additional inch and a half was removed.  I cut a ten inch wide length and went to work gathering.  

The length of the gathered piece was then shortened by two inches, serged and finished with a rolled hem.  Funny thing, I still fit into the vintage lemon print skirt that I originally made this top for, weird eh?  I'm thankful that I can still get at least another summer from the outfit.  

There is one more McCall's 7630 raw silk top that can use some rescuing.  

Happy Sewing!  

Back to the Basics: The rest of the batch

 

The rest of the panties are hot off the sewing machine.  Finally!  First, Simplicity 8229 is hands-down the best panties pattern that has crossed my sewing table.  I can't recommend this pattern enough.  And sewing these in cotton knit just adds to the comfort.  

I don't know what else to say besides all the zig-zag stitching is a real thread eater.  For the six pairs three bobbins were needed.  I polished off three small spools of thread.  

Project Details

Seams:  Lightning bolt / knit stitch

Seam Finish:  Serged edges, zig-zag stitched elastic.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Elastic:  12 metres picot elastic

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, thread, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, walking foot and tea breaks.  

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

The place that I was working this past year had an award ceremony.  Everyone received an "award" as fun way to introduce the person.  

The funny part of this is that my sewing mojo has been down the toilet for the past year.  Maybe even longer.  And the only dresses I've made in this time have been because I had gained weight and needed something to wear.  This past year, I've sewn more facemasks and scrub caps for others than I have dresses.  I stopped because I needed a break.  And at one point, I even gave away one of my sewing machines because I couldn't image wanting to sew.  

The award and the fabric store gift certificate was a reminder of how I much I miss the joy I used to get from sewing.  I recently tried to make a new dress in the colours of the Portuguese flag as a way to cheer Portugal on in the Euro Cup matches.  It ended up being a failed attempt much like Portugal's bid to repeat their 2016 victory.  Sometimes I think I should stick to facemasks and scrub caps.  Something small and meaningful might help get me back in the game?  

At the event there was someone trying to tell me that I should try selling the dresses that I sew and they could design my website.  I was beyond words.  It was like no one knew me.  Or how they perceived me was unrecognizable.  

There are projects I do need to sew.  More panties and things I've promised to make for others.  And hopefully, in the process I hope to find that sewing joy I seemed to have misplaced.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Returning to the Basics: Simplicity 8229

 

Sewing a new batch of cotton knit panties has been on my sewing to-do list for over a year now.  The sad fact regarding this project is that I have all the fabric and elastic that I need to get the job done.  It was just the sewing mojo that has been missing.  

I'm not saying that my sewing mojo is completely back to what it was once upon a time, as this project took two days to complete.  

Two days!  At this rate it might take awhile to complete a whole batch of new panties.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!