June in Review...

As things start to re-open in this part of the country, there is certainly a shift in how I view things that I took for granted pre-pandemic.  I count my blessings that I have the equipment, supplies and skills needed to create my own wardrobe and mend clothes.  Shopping for clothes is the last thing I could imagine wanting to do at this time.  I get the sense that it is something felt by others as there has been a noticeable increase of people asking me to sew for them. 

The thought of sewing for others at this time makes me feel very uncomfortable. The idea of standing close to someone during a fitting is not in my comfort zone at all.  But yet, I am working on a bridal project that I never imagined that I would be partaking in during a pandemic.  Strange times.   

Sadly, the project has very large pattern pieces that won't fit on my cutting table. And this ol' aching body is not ready to head back to the chiropractor and lay face down on a table for 20 to 30 minutes. I'm going to have to figure out a safe way to lay out the fabric and get it cut without kneeling on the floor and twisting my body. My back and knees are not looking forward to the cutting stage of this project. I spent a couple of days this weekend with pain meds and laying in bed after altering the pattern pieces and marking the test fabric. It was not a fun weekend. There has to be a solution I haven't figured out yet. Suggestions are most welcome.   

Sewing wise, I continued to sew small items that fit on my cutting table from fabrics found in my stash.  Although, I did add to the stash this month, 6 metres of a test fabric for the bridal cape and it's not enough. I'll have to head back to the store for more. ~sigh~  Shopping for fabric at this time is also not in my comfort zone.  I think this is the first time I can say that sewing and fabric shopping are not relaxing activities.  

This month I managed to cut 20 scrub caps (seven of the twenty are sewn), made 2 face masks, 1 top, 1 coat, 2 slips, 2 baby onesies, 1 eye glass case and 1 pair of pants.  

• 28.9 metres
• 1 metre of interfacing
• 1.9metres of elastic
• 3.8 metres of bias tape
• 2 metres of twill tape
• 1 new, previously-owned pattern
• 4 previously used patterns 
• 2 free PDF patterns
• 3 snaps
• 3 buttons
• 2 labels

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Coat: OOP Burda Style 7028

It's hot outside and the mosquitos are out. And as news outlets are talking about the pandemic's second wave, the executive director of the World Health Organization (WHO) warns that globally "we're right in the middle of the first wave." All good reasons, I think, to stay indoors and finish off a coat.  

Actually, I didn't think that I would finish this coat, it was meant to be a toile to test out the fit. As the outer shell came together, I decided to go ahead and cut out the lining pieces. What I need is a short winter coat and even though this one won't work at keeping me warm during a deep freeze it will work in those early autumn months before the snow settles on the ground.  The plan was to try out this pattern before committing my last piece of wool coating fabric to the project.  

It's out-of-print OOP Burda 7028 and I picked up this pattern because it was advertised as a Miss Petite sized pattern drafted for a five foot, three inch body. Close enough I thought. If I revisit this pattern for the shorter length coat that I want to have for the winter, I will shorten it at the seam for the mid-section of the coat, raising the pockets to a more comfortable height. This will also shorten the back hem to just above the knee on my five foot and a bit height.  

The pattern is fine. I like the cocoon shape of the coat that reminds me of something out of the 1920s.  I'm not a fan of the dropped shoulder but I can live with it. As it is, this wearable toile is something that will be easy to throw on for running errands. 

My outer fabric dictated the closure choice. Buttons were not an option because the uneven texture of this embroidered corduroy fabric would make buttonholes difficult to navigate. Throughout the sewing process, the sewing machine needle often became "stuck" in the thickness of the embroidery and pulled out of the shaft. So snaps seemed like the most logical decision. Luckily these were in the notions stash, for decades, as the card holder indicated that it was purchased at Courage My Love. I haven't been there in many, many moons.  

The heavily embroidered narrow-wade corduroy is also from the previous century. This fabric made it into my stash when there was still a Fanny Fabrics in the city. The cotton back kasha lining fabric is from this century. 

Project Details

Seams:  Straight stitch 2.8 length

Seam Finish:  Most interior edges were serged.  Finish on the sleeve hems were finished with a zig-zag stitch.  

Tips:  A clapper comes in handy for achieving a nice crisp press at the edges.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Lining:  2 metres (I had to cut several pattern pieces on the cross grain to make this quantity work)

Snaps:  3 - 1" 

Pattern:  OOP Burda Style 7028

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, thimble, and many breaks.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Seam Finishing Without a Serger

My decades old serger has not been sewing a decent seam finish lately.  It's time to take it in for servicing or ~gasp~ think about replacing it.  Both of these options won't be happening anytime soon with how expensive life has become since the arrive of the pandemic and I'm about to be laid off from work. Needless to say, I'm really watching my pennies nickels.  

Self-threading serger, {source}

Unless, I win the big prize of a lottery or save up enough nickels.  Yup, a nice dream, but I digress... Until that dream comes true, I'll be returning to the BS life (before serger).  

Thankfully, my sewing machine comes equipped with decorative and zig-zag stitches that I can adapt into seam finishing options.  These will work on the current project that I need to finish, I think I will go with the first stitch on the left for this embroidered corduroy fabric.  

Other types of fabric will require other seam finishing techniques. Sheer, light-weight fabrics will be best handled with a French seam finish.  Fabrics prone to fraying can be treated with bound seams. Thank goodness there's a bias tape maker in the sewing basket to make bias tape. 

There is a welcomed sense of slowing down the process and thinking about how to finish a seam without the speed of a serger. Maybe, returning to the basics is just what might kick-start the sewing mojo?  

Do you have a favourite non-serger seam finish that you like to use?  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

The pandemic continues to have a presence in my sewing. There's still face mask sewing. 

This one came about from scraps after I cut out some scrub caps out of this Japanese cotton fabric.  

And there has been countless sewing bloopers. I'm just pushing myself to get things done lately. It leads to more than expected time with the seam ripper.  

I did take a break from pandemic related sewing projects to work on a new coat pattern and wearable toile. But even garment sewing has been a challenge that requires seam ripping work.  

Talking about testing new patterns, I stopped by the fabric store yesterday to pick up some muslin to test out another. When did muslin get so expensive? Seventeen dollars and ninety-nine cents a metre plus taxes at five metres would cost too much for a test garment. The last time I made a trip to Northwest / Marshall Fabrics for muslin I paid no more than three dollars a metre. If I knew the price increase was that much I wouldn't have made the trip and lined up to get into the store during a pandemic.  

And there still seems to be a shortage of elastic. This sign was found in the elastic section of a local Fabricland store. Narrow width elastic still seems to be a challenge to find. Even Northwest / Marshall Fabrics has the notions section blocked off and you have to give your request to a sales person who will find and retrieve it for you if it's in stock.  

The pandemic certainly has changed sewing and the feelings associated with the hobby. Being in a fabric store yesterday was certainly stressful as people were not socially distancing and following rules. My head and heart is just not into this hobby right now. With the price increases and difficulty finding certain supplies, I'm finding it hard to get excited about future projects at this time.  

I'll keep sewing and clear off the projects that I have committed to finishing. But I rather just curl up and read a book than spend time at the sewing machine.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Replacement Top: OOP Butterick 5891

Many moons ago I had a favourite top that I wore mostly in the summer months. Until I put it on with damp and recently dyed hair that stained it. That stuff doesn't come off of fabric. It was made with Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891 and a wonderful black and white cotton fabric. I don't have the exact fabric print in my stash or left-over remnant but I did find two cuts that were quite similar. And since I've decided to let my hair do its natural thing (hello gorgeous gray highlights!) I figure it was safe to recreate a similar top.  

I had to blend the two cuts of fabric to create another top.  The front, sleeves and collar were cut in this flowers and swirls print.  

The back and pockets were cut in a floral and dots print. The fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the wash followed by the dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

I typically shorten the sleeve length on commercial sewing patterns but not with this one.  The sleeves were sewn with a two inch hem. The pockets were raised an inch. I omitted the interior button and loop.  No other alterations or changes to the pattern were made.  

The perfect buttons were found in the stash. It's nice to have a similar version top back in the wardrobe.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finish:  Serged interior, top-stitched narrow hems.  

Tips:  If you dye your hair, dry it before getting dressed.  

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Buttons:  3 - 18 mm

Label:  1 "me made" by Kylie and the Machine

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, thread clippers, threads, serger, tweezers, new serger sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

  

And Another: OOP Simplicity 8666

And there was a request for another bias cut slip just like the other one made earlier this month.  

This is out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8666 in a light-weight cotton that has been in the stash, again, for many moons.  

Same changes, as the previous version:  

1. The sides were extended, 1 5/8" from the upper portion grading outward to 2" towards the hemline.  
2. The length was shortened by two and a half inches.  
3. The front was lowered by 1" at the centre front grading to the original shaping outwards.  
4. The straps are ten inches in length.  

Project Details

Seams:  Sewn with the straight stitch at a 2.6 length.  

Seam Finish:  The sides have French seams. The neckline and armholes have a bias tape finish. The hem is finished with a 3/8" narrow hem.  

Tips:  Be willing to spend more time at the ironing board with pressing as you sew.  It will make your life at the sewing machine easier.  

Fabric:  2 metres

Bias Tape:  1.8 metres double fold

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8666

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, pins, wrist pin cushion, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, safety pin, iron, ironing board, tea and some cool tunes.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

Baby Onsie: Vintage McCall's 7367

Vintage (circa 1994) out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 has seen a lot of action on the cutting table over the years. It has also been years since I stitched up a version of this pattern.

Instead, I sewed two, both to be gifted. It's a sweet pattern and it has been a go-to baby shower and charity gift item over the years. But now I remember why I haven't been stitching more of these over the recent years. It's all about my sewing machine, there's nothing wrong with the pattern. The sleeve and leg cuffs are a very snug fit around the arm of my sewing machine.

 

Throw in that my wrists are not as cooperative as they used to be in my younger days, this has turned out to be a struggle to get it in position to sew the cuffs. Before I could finish this project, I had to unpack my older back-up sewing machine and dust it off to sew the cuffs for the simple reason is that the arm is smaller than on my newer machine.   

I'm so glad I still have the older machine for projects like this one. But I will tell you, I'm ready to pack up this vintage pattern for good. I think it's time that I retire this pattern, for the sake of my wrists.  

The fabric is a light-weight terry and the cuffs (plus the facing on one) is a cotton knit. These fabrics were found in the stash where they were hanging out for many moons. Pre-shrunk with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before it hit the cutting table.  

Project Details  

Seams:  These were sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance and the lightning bolt (knit stitch) 1.0 zig-zag, 2.5 length.  

Seam Finish:  Serged

Tips:  Use a walking foot for sewing knits.  

Fabric:  2 metres (for the two)

Snaps:  2

Interfacing:  1 metre fusible

Twill Tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 7367

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions (wrist and table), tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machines, serger, threads, tweezers, screwdriver, serger needle and cup of tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!