Showing posts sorted by relevance for query burda coat. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query burda coat. Sort by date Show all posts

Sunday, 28 June 2020

Coat: OOP Burda Style 7028

It's hot outside and the mosquitos are out. And as news outlets are talking about the pandemic's second wave, the executive director of the World Health Organization (WHO) warns that globally "we're right in the middle of the first wave." All good reasons, I think, to stay indoors and finish off a coat.  


Actually, I didn't think that I would finish this coat, it was meant to be a toile to test out the fit. As the outer shell came together, I decided to go ahead and cut out the lining pieces. What I need is a short winter coat and even though this one won't work at keeping me warm during a deep freeze it will work in those early autumn months before the snow settles on the ground.  The plan was to try out this pattern before committing my last piece of wool coating fabric to the project.  


It's out-of-print OOP Burda 7028 and I picked up this pattern because it was advertised as a Miss Petite sized pattern drafted for a five foot, three inch body. Close enough I thought. If I revisit this pattern for the shorter length coat that I want to have for the winter, I will shorten it at the seam for the mid-section of the coat, raising the pockets to a more comfortable height. This will also shorten the back hem to just above the knee on my five foot and a bit height.  


The pattern is fine. I like the cocoon shape of the coat that reminds me of something out of the 1920s.  I'm not a fan of the dropped shoulder but I can live with it. As it is, this wearable toile is something that will be easy to throw on for running errands. 


My outer fabric dictated the closure choice. Buttons were not an option because the uneven texture of this embroidered corduroy fabric would make buttonholes difficult to navigate. Throughout the sewing process, the sewing machine needle often became "stuck" in the thickness of the embroidery and pulled out of the shaft. So snaps seemed like the most logical decision. Luckily these were in the notions stash, for decades, as the card holder indicated that it was purchased at Courage My Love. I haven't been there in many, many moons.  

The heavily embroidered narrow-wade corduroy is also from the previous century. This fabric made it into my stash when there was still a Fanny Fabrics in the city. The cotton back kasha lining fabric is from this century. 



Project Details

Seams:  Straight stitch 2.8 length

Seam Finish:  Most interior edges were serged.  Finish on the sleeve hems were finished with a zig-zag stitch.  

Tips:  A clapper comes in handy for achieving a nice crisp press at the edges.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Lining:  2 metres (I had to cut several pattern pieces on the cross grain to make this quantity work)

Snaps:  3 - 1" 

Pattern:  OOP Burda Style 7028

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, thimble, and many breaks.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!


Friday, 7 June 2013

New Spring Coat: Burda 7304

Stash Busting 2013:  Project #22

Fabric Used:                  3.2 metres 100% polyester fabric

Pattern Used:               Burda Style 7304

Seam Binding Used:  15 packages of seam binding.

Buttons:                         Six

*****
“The great doilies are stories in crochet, with a beginning, character development, and plot twists, periods of conflict, growth, and redemption. And the best of them have slam-bang endings.” 
~Doris Chan~

This project certainly had its challenges. I don't know where to begin.  

1.  The Fabric!  
I believe that I actually gasped when I first spotted this bolt of fabric in the home decor department. It is a 100% polyester, not the kind of fabric I usually fall head over heels over, rather it was the texture and print that won me over. I fell for the doilies that graced the surface of this fabric.  

This fabric proved to be a challenge to press and finish. Oh my goodness, did it ever fray! I finished all the seams with a bound seam finish. I didn't make my own bias tape. I cheated and picked up several more than several packages of pre-made seam binding.

I went against Burda's advice to use a fulled fabric.
Fulled fabric is a kind of felted wool, the surface of the wool is slightly felted so that the right side looks the same as the wrong side. The quality is smooth, but sturdy, and has a perfect wearing ease. You usually sew jackets from it without lining, which are perfect for autumn and any transitional season. Due to its property, edges need not be neatened, the fabric does not fray and is comparable with fleece.

Garments sewn from fulled fabrics have got volume and stability, and look nice from both sides.
Do I love my fabric? Absolutely! But next time if I reuse this pattern, I will look for a fabric that is suggested by Burda.

2.  Bound Seams!
I love the look of this coat from the inside. All the seam edges are finished with bound seams, it was a lot of work though. This coat would have been pieced together a lot quicker if I serged all the edges. Despite the time-consuming work, I'm glad I bound those fraying seams.

3.  Pressing!
Everyone who sews knows that pressing is one of the most important steps to creating a well-made garment. Sew I won't go on about this step other than thank goodness for my tailor's and sleeve hams.

Despite all the challenges this fabric and project provided, it will go down with one of the most rewarding.

Happy Sewing!



Wednesday, 18 December 2013

Year in Review: Garments

What a year! I managed to make over 30 items for moi, some of my family, and for gifts.

Clockwise L to R: 1. Top, Vogue 1274 2. Baby Onsie, McCall's 7367
3. Men's Shirt, McCall's 2447 4. Most challenging and rewarding
project of 2013, Spring Coat, Burda 7304 5. Bedroom curtains, self-drafted

Clockwise L to R: 1. Navy wool pants and my favourite pattern of 2013: Vogue 1325 2. Floral Top, Burda 7255
3. Messanger Bag 4. Baby Blue Baby Dress, Burda 9752 5. My favourite make of 2013: kAtheRine Tilton Top, Butterick 5891

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit Fleece, Vogue 8854 2. Plaid Skirt, Vogue 8835
3. Knit Dress, McCall's  6612 4. Knit Dress, Vogue 1312 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Shirt, Burda 7136 2. Leather trimmed denim skirt, Burda 7025 3. Faux fur and knit blanket,
self-drafted 4. Black wool pants, Vogue 1325 5. Gray and blue pinstriped wool and cashmere pants, Vogue 1325 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Skirt, Vogue 1038 2. Vintage Dress, Simplicity 7478
3. Flannel PJ's, McCall's 8525 4. First attempt at making knickers, online pattern
5. Plaid dress, Vogue 8667

Clockwise L to R:  1. Dress, Simplicity 8024 2. Dress, Simplicity 2372 3. First unintentional attempt
at granny knickers, Kwik Sew 2100 4. Red denim pants, Vogue 1325 5. Peplum top, Vogue 8815

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit sweater,Stretch & Sew 200 2. Black cotton sateen
vest, Simplicity 4763 3. Blue shirtdress, Vintage McCall's 9424 4. Orange
knit skirt, Vogue  86375. Silk duponi top, Centre for Pattern Design, Spiral Top.  
And there were other types of sewing projects that materialized in 2013. More to follow...


Sunday, 19 May 2013

Unlined Coat

Spring is finally here. The apricot tree in the folks' yard is blooming with beautiful pink flowers, it is absolutely gorgeous. It is actually raining instead of snowing! And my thoughts are turning to sewing a new spring coat.

The pattern I have in mind is Burda Style 7304. It has been in my pattern stash for quite some time.

The fabric is a recent purchase. I found it in the home decor department of the local Fabricland store. It is a 100% polyester. I'm not a 100% sure how it is going to work out but I'm willing to give it a whirl because I love the print. It also have a raised texture.

I did manage to get all the pieces cut in the main fabric. Yesterday, I stopped by the fabric store to pick up some more interfacing and I came across the most perfect buttons.

I didn't get much sewing done yet as I'm still hurting with this back injury from a few weeks ago. I'm so over this, I just want to feel my old self and get back to sewing without all the mega breaks. But I have to look on the positive side. This slower pace will force me to slow down and take my time with the details of this coat.

Centre back
bound seam using binder foot
It is an unlined coat and the fabric does like to fray. My plan won't be to serge the edges, rather to use bound seams on the inside of the coat. I have purchased seam binding for this and so far I like the way it has turned out. It is not perfect. The latest June/July 2013 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine has an article "Tiny Seams Finishing Techniques for Delicate Garments" which includes instructions for the bound seam.

I cheated with the first bound seam finishing that I did on the centre back pieces. I used a binder foot. It turned out okay. It didn't seem to leave an impress that I was saving any time or made the task easier or created a perfectly straight finish.    

Sew, now I'm doing things the old fashion way. I've removed the bias tape foot and stitching it to the edge, turning it over and top-stitching it in place just like in the Vogue Patterns magazine article. I like the control that I feel I have doing it this way over using the bias tape foot. It might take more time, but that is okay with me. Besides, I think it looks better.  

Hmmm, I wonder how long it will take to finish this project?

Happy Sewing!

Friday, 27 December 2013

Year in Review: The Tim Gunn Project

Awhile back, I started to take a good hard look at my wardrobe. I was in need of some professional looking basics and I turned to Tim Gunn's advice on the essential pieces that every woman should have in their wardrobe. Of course, I'm not the "all-American classic" kind of gal, but I'm trying to make it my own while putting together a more professional look.


How has the sewing challenge been going? Well, here is my dream edited dream list and the items that I was able to assemble from already made and newly made items to make up the essential piece Mr. Gunn suggests as key pieces.

✄ A classic trench.

I didn't make a "trench coat". It is on my list of things I would like to one day make, but until then I do have a trench alternative, Burda 7304. I'm sure Mr. Gunn would let this slight change slide.

Red Satin
Trenchcoat, Burberry
$4,195.00
It is not that I don't like the classic trench. I would love  something like this. Yes!, my inspiration, in a red satin sateen fabric, oh my goodness, that would be fabulous.

I don't have a classic trench coat pattern nor do I have red sateen sitting in my fabric stash. Sew this is purely a fantasy item.

If I were to chose a trench coat pattern there are three patterns that I think are serious contenders, Sewaholic's Robson Coat, Marfy's F3201 and the Pièce de résistance Vintage Vogue 1521.

Okay, that is enough fantasy play. Moving along...


The Black Dress.

I don't really need another black dress. I do have Vogue 1312 in my wardrobe plus three RTW basic black knit t-shirt dresses that are easy to dress up or down. Do I really need a black dress?

That said, I won't cross it off the list just because this is a want rather than a need item. And there is some beautiful free trade black knit and several patterns (including Marcy Tilton's Single Dress) that might fit the bill. Stay tuned, a black dress just might materialize.

The Classic White Shirt.

This shirt was originally supposed to have long sleeves (long story cut short) but I don't mind the shorter sleeve length. I adjusted the bottom waist and hip area to allow for more ease than the pattern suggested. It is also a problem area that I find when shopping for RTW shirts and blouses. I'm pleased with the outcome even though I wouldn't mind a long sleeve french cuff version in a different fabric [insert lightweight linen since I'm on the in-my-dreams theme].

I might have to revisit this item in the new year. For now, this is a good go-to white shirt when those conservative occasions pop up.




 Dress pants.

Finding a pants pattern that fits and is comfortable has been a long time coming. An epic journey that has taken many twists and turns resulting in absolute failure until now.

Now my go-to pants pattern has been an Anne Klein pattern, Vogue 1325. I like the high waist and it falls straight from the widest part of my hips. I've actually make three pairs in wool and wool/cashmere blend. One pair in navy, another in a grey and blue pinstripe and the classic black wool pants. And I wouldn't mind making another pair in the near future. It is crazy to think that I actually can't get enough of this pattern.


✄ The Perfect Pair of Jeans.

I'm still working on this one. I did make a pair of red jeans using Vogue 1325 but made the error that I would need more ease because of my fabric choice. I was dead wrong. Since I made those denim pants, I lost a few pounds and now look like I'm drowning in them. Back to the drawing board on this essential item.

Next time I'm try a different pattern though. Something along the lines of a more classic jean style with back and front pockets. I have a couple of "jean" patterns from Butterick and Vogue in my pattern stash to try out. Taking lessons learned the hard way on my pants journey I'll have to take some time and make a muslin first.

✄ The Day Dress.

This project is cut and ready to go! I just need to change the thread colour on the overlock and sewing machines and get to work when I'm ready to head back to the sewing table.





✄ Any Occasion Top. (Replaces Gunn's Cashmere Sweater piece.)

I do feel comfortable crossing this item off the list since I have Vogue 1274, Lynn Mizono's Angel Shirt, as my go-to any occasion top. (If I must.)

It is made with 100% fabric and I feel that the design is funky enough that I would pick this item for an afternoon at the theatre or symphony or a work day. Sure, it doesn't fit under a blazer but I'm okay with that.

That said, I actually wouldn't mind making the shorter version in some silk duponi that I have in my fabric stash, maybe?




✄ The Classic Blazer.

Channel $4,710.00
I would really, really, really love to add a Channel-esque jacket to my wardrobe. Yes, it is not a "blazer" but rules are meant to be broken, right?

The fabric has orange, pinks and yellows and would work beautifully with the day dress project that I have cut out. Mmmm, maybe some navy trim will pull it all together? No clue on the lining fabric.

Okay, back to the list...

✄ Versatile Skirt.

This skirt is make in a black denim and dressed up with leather trim along the hemline, side and front seams. It falls a little longer than what Mr. Gunn suggested last year but I don't care, this skirt works for me. It is made using Burda 7025 and to be completely honest it does not look anything like the pattern. But I like it.

Actually, I have to disagree with Mr. Gunn on his hemline suggestions because I would really like to make a maxi-length skirt using Vogue 1239 or perhaps the recently discovered Vintage NY Collection pattern, McCall's 7870.

Once I hit on the perfect versatile skirt, I plan to use it with a cream coloured wool that has been in the fabric stash for far too long.

 A Sweatsuit Alternative.

This one cracks me up! I've never fell for the sweat pants/suit look. The last thing I ever would want to wear is something that hugs my thighs. So I think I going all out on this one and make something that I know I will comfortable in, another day dress.


The fabric I have in mind for this is a beautiful light-weight wool in a colour that I would not normal pick. Too funny that is it pretty close to the 2014 Pantone Colour of the Year, Radiant Orchid. So glad I went shopping with a friend that day!

Well, as you can see I still have a lot of work and editing to do before I see the end of this project. It will continue as my on-going 2014 work-in-progress. Wonder what the finally ten items will look like when I finally pull it together.

Happy Sewing!


Sunday, 29 December 2019

The Year in Review...

January:

Top L to R:  Reversible Little Girl's dress, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1455.  Striped men's shirt, McCall's 2447.  Terry bathrobe and tie belt, OOP Simplicity 7417, Blue men's shirt, McCall's 2447
January's Gift / Charity Projects:  3
Total Gift / Charity Projects:  3

January's Personal Clothing Projects:  1
Total Personal Clothing:  1

Out of all my years of sewing under my belt, I started the year with learning a new-to-me technique, the couture method of sewing a shirt yoke.  I haven't looked back since.  Most of the sewing this month was gifted items with the exception of a robe for myself.   


February:

Cork handbag, McCall's 7851

February's Gift / Charity Projects:  0
Annual Gift / Charity Projects:  3

February's Personal Clothing:  1
Annual Personal Clothing:  2

This month was about discovering a new-to-me fabric, cork.  Who knew it would be so easy to sew?  This project was my most-complimented and requested item.  It became the first of four that I would make this year.  


March:  

L to Right:  Cotton sateen dress, Burda Style 6321.  Long cardigan, Butterick 6495.

March's Gift / Charity Projects:  0
Annual Total Gift / Charity Projects:  3

March's Personal Clothing:  2
Annual Personal Clothing:  4

This month I learned that I'm should just stick to the basics and classics.  That dress although on trend at this time was an epic fail on my body shape.  The cardigan was a win.  


April:

L to R:  Pullover cotton sweatshirt fleece, Simplicity 8529.  Upcycled Burda Style 6321 because the style didn't work.  Another cork handbag, McCall's 7851.

April's Gift / Charity Projects:  1
Total Gift / Charity Projects:  4

April's Personal Clothing Projects:  1
Total Personal Clothing Projects:  5
Upcycling / Refashion Projects:  1

This month I tried to upcycle that dress and refashioned it into a skirt.  The top was a way to use up a remnant piece from last month's project and sewing for others.  


May:  

L to R:  White cotton shirt, McCall's 7904.  Winnipeg Jets shirt, McCall's 6548.  Pajama top, Butterick 6296.  

May's Gift / Charity Projects:  1
Total Gift / Charity Projects:  5

May's Personal Clothing:  2
Total Personal Clothing:  7
Upcycling / Refashion Projects:  1

This month was all about sewing tops.


June:

Coat, Vogue 9367; Boy's Shirt, Burda 9794 and Men's Shirt, McCall's 2447

June's Gift / Charity Projects:  2
Total Gift / Charity Projects:  7

June's Personal Clothing:  1
Total Personal Clothing:  8
Upcycling / Refashion Projects:  1

I finally added a spring coat to my wardrobe, it might seem a little late, but surprisingly with all the rain, I actually got to wear it this summer.

July:  

Cork purse, McCall's 7851; Linen Slip, OOP Simplicity 6851 and Cotton Sateen Skirt, OOP Vogue 1247

July's Gift / Charity Projects:  2
Total Gift / Charity Projects:  9

July's Personal Clothing:  1
Total Personal Clothing:  9
Total Upcycled / Refashion Projects:  1

Really enjoyed sewing with these natural fibres.

August:

Laptop cover, no pattern used; Striped Linen Pants, Vogue 1642; Wool Pants, Vogue 1642; Reusable Produce Bags, no pattern used; Red Cardigan, Butterick 6495; Boy's Sweatshirt, McCall's 6548; Linen Slip, OOP Simplicity 6851; Cork Handbag, McCall's 7851 and Linen Tea Towels, no pattern used.  

August's Gift / Charity projects:  15
Total Gift / Charity projects:  24

August's Personal clothing:  3
Total Personal clothing:  12
Total Upcycled / Refashioned projects:  1

The produce bags are the most used item of 2019.  

September:  

Boy's Shirt, Vintage OOP Simplicity 4166; Floral Pullover Topper, Vogue 1642; Polyester Cable motif Turtleneck, OOP Vogue 8939; Men's Shirt, Vogue 8889 and Wool pants, Vogue 1642.

September's Gift / Charity projects:  2
Total Gift / Charity projects:  26

September's Personal clothing:  3
Total Personal clothing:  15
Total Upcycled / Refashioned projects:  1

This month saw a few sewing fails at the sewing machine.  

October:  
Floral Robe / Housecoat, Vintage OOP Simplicity 6851; refashioned dress; Polyester Pull-on Skirt, OOP Vogue 5790; Cotton Knit Turtleneck Dress, OOP Vogue 8939 and Boy's Pants, Vintage OOP McCall's 8548

October's Gift / Charity projects:  2
Total Gift / Charity projects:  28

October's Personal clothing:  2
Total Personal clothing:  17
Total Upcycled / Refashioned projects:  2

This month's sewing was all about cozy things.  

November:  

Shirtdress, combination of Vogue 8934, McCall's 7546 and Vogue 1503; NHL Hockey Microwave Cozy, no pattern used; Wool Hat, OOP Vogue 8966

November's Gift / Charity projects:  1
Total Gift / Charity projects:  29

Refashioned project

November's Personal clothing:  2
Total Personal clothing:  19
Total Upcycled / Refashioned projects:  3

Not really sure what to say about this month's sewing, just filling some needs.  

December:

Cotton Panties, Simplicity 8229; Men's Shirt, McCall's 2447; Boy's Pajama Top, combination of vintage OOP McCall's 8548 and McCall's 6548; Boy's Pajama Bottoms, vintage OOP McCall's 8548; Men's Pajama Set, vintage OOP Kwik Sew 1415

December's Gift / Charity projects:  8
Total Gift / Charity projects:  37

December's Personal clothing:  3
Total Personal clothing:  22
Total Upcycled / Refashioned projects:  3

Nothing says Christmas like pajamas and undies, right?  

So there you have it, most of my sewing this year were charity and gift projects.  The sewing that I did for myself were basics, nothing fancy.  I didn't really do anything too challenging or outside my comfort zone.  What 2020 will hold, time will tell.  Maybe, I'll finally get around to working on a toile for a new pair of jeans?  

Happy Sewing!


Saturday, 10 May 2014

Me-Made-May '14: Week in Review


Sunday, May 4th

Me-made items:  5
Navy pants Vogue 1325, white french-cuffed shirt out-of-print McCall's 8943, cream coloured spring coat out-of-print Burda 7304, wrap dress Vogue 8896 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.  



Store bought items:  3
Undergarments and pantyhose.

Footwear and Accessories: 
Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor shoes), black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.

Monday, May 5th

Me-made items:  4
Cherry and lemons front-buttoned shirt Butterick 5365, red skirt Vogue 1247, indigo boiled wool jacket Vogue 1263 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.


Store bought items:  3
Red tights and undergarments.

Footwear and Accessories: 
Red wedged groundhogs (work shoes), Navy rubber boots (outdoor boots), and black birkenstock (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Tuesday, May 6th

Me-made items:  4
Green skirt Vogue 1247, angel shirt Vogue 1274, cream coloured spring coat out-of-print Burda 7304 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.  



Store bought items:  4
Pantyhose, undergarments and black tee-shirt (art class garment).  

Footwear and Accessories: 
Yellow wedged mary-janes (work and outdoor shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Wednesday, May 7th

Me-made items:  2
Navy pants Vogue 1325 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.

Store bought items:  5
Sleeveless blue top, multi-coloured blazer, dark grey socks and undergarments.

Footwear and Accessories: 
Red wedged groundhogs (work and outdoor shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Thursday, May 8th

Me-made items:  3
Purple skirt Vogue 1247, white shirt Burda 7136, and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.


Store bought items:  4
Beige suede jacket, pantyhose and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 
Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor and work shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Friday, May 9th

Me-made items:  3
Black skirt Vogue Pattern magazine Feb/March 2012, Top Butterick 5891, Indigo jacket Vogue 1263.



Store bought items:  3
Pantyhose and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 
Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor and work shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Saturday, May 10th

Me-made items:  2
Red and white skirt out-of-print Vogue 2885 and nightgown out-of-print Simplicity number unknown




Store bought items:  8
Grey skirt, black, black leggings, white striped tee-shirt, jean jacket, white sweater, white camisole, and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 
Black Mephistos (outdoor shoes), black Birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse

Children's Leggings: McCall's 7709

One more gift sewing project, the leggings, from McCall's 7709 .   I will have to give this a good pressing before I wrap this one up.  ...