March in Review

Happy Easter!

Photo from the 2024 Easter Parade in NYC {Photo Credit:  Joanna Moriello, New York Daily News}

This is a scene outside St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City.  No such festive sights in this part of my world but I do appreciate looking up photos from this annual event.  I hope you are all enjoying a blessed Easter season no matter where you are or how you're celebrating, Happy Easter.  

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Top L to R clockwise:  Feather print cotton knit pajama top (Closet Core / Ebony), feather print cotton knit pajama bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), pink and gray cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), polka dot cotton foam block cover (no pattern used), gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), rusty brown merino wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192).

Sewing t-shirts on a cover stitch machine was a game changer this month at the sewing table.  How did I ever sew without one?  Sewing knits started off as a challenge in the beginning.  Over the years,  Knit 'N Stable tape had been used for sewing hems on knit fabrics.  No need for using that technique anymore.  Oh, the time that I will save!  

Mending and alterations kept me busy again this month.  There was replacing a broken button and repairing a hole on this dress and re-attaching pant hooks on these.  And going through the wardrobe to see what can be edited or transformed into something else.  I tried to make Vogue 2000 in my typical size but it didn't work out for me.  I need to go up a size.  I'm happy to have the first attempt back on the sewing table to finish.  It will be gifted to someone who fits into it.  I just hope they don't mind that I still plan to make my own chambray version down the road.  But first, there's alterations to do to the pattern pieces and a toile to sew before I cut into anymore chambray fabric.  

Stash busted and Stash Additions

Stash busted this month:  

• 13.5 metres fabric (includes the fabric used for the yet-to-be finished Vogue 2000)
• 1.5 metres interfacing
• 1 -- 55 cm invisible zipper
• 1 package of seam binding
• 1 sewing label
• 1 metre elastic
• 1 metre basting tape

Additions to the stash:

• 5 spools of thread
• one second-hand cover stitch 
• 15 metres fabric
• another copy of the re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 2000

Stash busted this year:  

• 35.3 metres fabric
• 4.3 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit-N-Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 4 sewing labels
• 4 buttons
• 3 metres elastic
• 11 spools of thread
• 4.3 metres of basting tape

This year's additions:

• 14 spools of thread
• 7 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

 

Stash busting: Pajama Bottoms / McCall's P349

These are the pajama bottoms I made to go with this t-shirt.  

These pajama bottoms are made with out-of-print (OOP) McCall's P349.  The only change was to shorten the length.  There is an optional decorative tie for the center front waistband.  It is an easy and quick project.  The fabric was pretreated before cutting.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and coversitched

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Pattern:  OOP McCall's P349

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring table, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome cover stitch machine, Janome serger, measuring gauge, tailor's ham, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Cotton Knit Tee / Closet Core Ebony

 

This is the third version of Closet Core's Ebony t-shirt pattern and it's my favourite one.  There were small subtle changes to the hemline that made it so.  I trimmed a small piece from the back after laying the pre-hemmed top on the table and using the front centre length as a guide.  As I tried to press the hem up I noticed that the side seam at the hemline could use a bit of trimming as well.  That eliminated the hi-low hem that I was trying to avoid.  Hi-low hems seem to work on a taller frame than mine.  This version, I did not cut two inches shorter as I did on the second version.  

The sleeves were kept the same length as the first and second versions, lengthened nine inches.  The hems have a one inch allowance and have been finished with a coverstitch machine. 

Ebony is a keeper, right after I transfer the hemline changes to the pattern pieces.  It's well drafted and a wonderful pattern for beginners, highly recommended.  

The fabric is a cotton knit from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It is the same print and fabric used for this dress, just a different colour.  It was pre-treated with a toss in the wash and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Cover Pro, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: New Pajama Top / Closet Core Ebony

 

I'm in the process of sewing a new pajama set.  The Ebony t-shirt pattern is that comfortable, perfect for sleepwear and has enough ease to wear over a brace.  The only change since the last version is that I shortened the hem two inches.  

There is enough of this medium weight cotton knit fabric to sew a pair of matching pajama bottoms.  It's next up in the sewing queue.  The fabric has been in the stash for the past two years picked up with thoughts of sewing another wrap dress.  And then plans changed.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer, followed by a quick steam press before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hems:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, ruler, Janome sewing machine, threads, Jamone coverstitch machine, seam ripper, Jamone serger, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash Busting: Cotton Knit T-Shirt / Closet Core Ebony

This is the second time I pulled out the Closet Core's Ebony pattern.  The first time was to make view A, the dress.  I ended up taking it in to reduce the fullness.  This time, I made the raglan sleeve t-shirt, view C.  I was looking for something that would be loose enough to wear over a brace.  This time all that fullness is just what I am looking for, it's perfect.  There were a few small changes made to the pattern.  I eliminated the hi-lo hem and lengthened the sleeves nine inches.  

The light-weight cotton knit has been in the stash for decades.  It was previously washed and dried before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hem finish:  Coverstitch

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, iron, ironing board, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome CoverPro, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, sleeve ham, tailor's ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Scrap busting: Self-Drafted Foam Block Cover

Last month, I tried to sew a foam block cover and it became my first sewing blooper of the year.  This is a correction project.  

The fabric is a 100% cotton left over from face mask sewing days.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washer and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  The zipper is a teal colour invisible zipper pulled from the stash.  It is not a perfect match but as an invisible zipper that doesn't matter.  The zipper length was cut down to fit the size of the project.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.4 metres

Foam:  1 block, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Basting tape:  1 metre

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pinking shears, pins, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, iron, ironing board, Janome serger, screwdriver, pin cushion, threads and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top to go with it.  The pullover top was a fail in fit and even though the skirt is comfortable it didn't see much wear this winter.  This is my attempt to finally complete a set.  

There was about 1.9 metres remaining of the merino wool fabric, not enough for a pullover top but just enough for another cardigan.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 has been a successful project in the past so I figure it could work here as well.  

The fit worked out perfectly.  And I'm thrilled to finally have a matching set.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.9 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, seam ripper and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

It's Time to Raise the White Flag: The DVF Reissued 50th Anniversary Wrap Dress / Vogue 2000

There has been a flurry of wrap dresses appearing on sewing blogs and Instagram posts the last couple of months.  It happened ever since Simplicity announced the re-release of the vintage Diane Von Furstenberg (DVF) Vogue 1549 for the 50th anniversary.  This re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern is now listed as Vogue 2000.  

Most of the early Vogue 2000 wrap dress makers appear to have received complimentary patterns and made their beautiful iconic creations in knit fabrics.  I already have a couple of DVF knit wrap dresses made with vintage Vogue 1610.  I am quite happy with these DVF wrap dresses made with OOP and vintage Vogue 1610.  I'm not sure I want another knit version of a DVF wrap dress.  

I am, however, intrigued by the option of sewing an iconic DVF wrap dress in a woven fabric.  It will certainly be a cooler option to wear in the summertime prairie heat. 

The one thing that stalled this project and jumping on the DVF reissued pattern bandwagon was the cost of ordering it via Simplicity from outside of the United States.  Pattern prices for Canadian residents went up 17% and the international shipping costs--oy!  But then I discovered a copy was available on Amazon, bye-bye twenty U.S. dollar shipping costs, hello Vogue 2000.  Sure, I could have waited until it became available in local stores after the spring release (it is available now).  But Vogue patterns are even a pricey option here north of the Canada / United States border.  Fabricland is the only retailer that carries Vogue patterns and their membership only discount on patterns have decreased to 25% off, while Vogue pattern prices increased to $42.00 Canadian.  Again--oy!  I was really thankful for finding this pattern through another source at a below Canadian and U.S. sewing retailer's listed price plus free shipping.  I would not be celebrating the 50th anniversary and sewing this DVF design otherwise.  

So, now that hunting down and adjusting the pattern is done, it's down to finding a woven fabric for the project.  This also proved to be a challenge, while I was searching through the stash for a suitable fabric I ended up re-organizing the stash.  Ah, sweet, sweet procrastination.  I finally found a soft, light-weight denim coloured Chambray, one of the suggested fabrics listed on the pattern envelope.  

And then the project stalled again after I tried it on mid-completion to check the fit.  Oy!  

The neckline is too low, way too low to feel comfortable while wearing this dress.  After the initial try-on it appears that dress is a must have a camisole or undershirt type of garment and that was not what I was looking for at all.  So much for having a wrap dress in a cooler fabric to wear in the hot prairie summers.  But I continue on despite my disappointment in the low neckline.  

With just the cuffs and hem to finish, I decided to raise the white flag on Vogue 2000.  It has more fit issues than a too-low-for-comfort neckline.   

This project is cut in a size 14, the size I typically cut in Vogue patterns.  I haven't had issues in the past sewing a garment in a size 14, even the vintage Vogue 1610, but this did not feel like it was a size 14 at all.  It is snug.  The bust dart could be lowered an inch.  The opening for the ties found at the side felt like I had reach past the side into the back region.  Yes, I did check to pattern to make sure I didn't cut a smaller size than a fourteen.  As a matter of fact, I added a 1/4" to the side seams.  Hmmm.  

I can't figure it out why I had so many fitting issues other than maybe it's not really meant for a woven fabric.  I would go up a size or two if the pattern had the larger sizes but it is the next size combination and I'm not that keen on spending more coins on this design.  

There are many things that I do love about Vogue 2000.  The interfacing attached to the dress pieces instead of the facing is something I would like to repeat on another project.  I really liked how that came out.  The seam binding technique in the interior seams were sweet.  I didn't get to sewing the French cuffs but I do admire this design feature and even had cuff links picked out.  The fit on the sleeves were nice.  I wish it turned out but I did enjoy the process until I realized it wasn't going to fit.  

I don't want to discourage anyone from sewing Vogue 2000, it just didn't work out for me.  Now to decide if I should finish and donate it or harvest the fabric into another project?  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres

Seam binding:  1 package

Interfacing:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 2000

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, new Universal sewing machine needle, Janome serger, screwdriver, seam ripper, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

The Golden Age of the Dress

 

Once upon a time, I often wore dresses.  A dress was my go-to piece of clothing, even for cycling.  Those days were many moons ago, what feels like a life-time ago.  

In 2023, I only managed to sew myself three dresses as my wardrobe choices shifted in another direction.  Pajama sets, pull-on pants and t-shirts ruled my 2023 wardrobe.  Of the three dresses made last year, one has been donated, another has been worn only once and one is waiting for warmer temperatures.  

And yet, on the sewing table is another dress project.  This project is all about nostalgic sewing and a longing for the golden age of the dress patterns when designers like Teal Traina, Sybil Connolly, Nina Ricci and  Diane Von Furstenberg ruled.  Sure, I do admire and enjoy sewing modern dress patterns, insert any Tilton designer dress here.  

Today, at the sewing table I'm relishing in the vintage sewing techniques and slowing down to hand baste strips of seam binding to the interior pieces on Vogue 2000, the DVF wrap dress reissued pattern.  It has vintage details and sewing techniques unseen in most current sewing patterns that elevated a design into the golden age category.  So today, on National Dress Day, I'm nostalgic for vintage sewing techniques that elevate an everyday dress towards next level special.  

Happy National Dress Day!