September in Review

National Sewing Month

Sewing sustainably is challenging in the era of fossil fashion where most natural fiber fabrics are mixed with man-made fibers to bring down the costs and increase profits for manufacturers.  Synthetic fabrics derived from fossil fuel are incredibly cheap to produce.  

Synthetics, like polyester, have overtaken the selections found in the clothing, fabric and thread aisles.  A post by Fashion Revolution Canada this month highlights the growing demand for synthetics is fueled by "cheap clothing and sneaky marketing campaigns" and that "plastic including synthetics could account for up to 95% of future growth in oil demand."  

Have you noticed the appearance of clothing and fabrics being marketed as 100% recycled polyester?  The phrase "recycled polyester" is marketed to give you a warm-doing-good feeling about wearing polyester.  But let's be clear, it's still polyester and the fibers degrade every time it's recycled.  

This polyester knit sweater made last November, did not perform well and ended up in the donation pile earlier this year.  I should have know better.  I did know better but I fell for the print.  It didn't last the winter and it didn't keep me warm and the static cling it produced was not fun.  But I digress.  Polyester is not known for being a breathable fabric and has a high tendency for pilling.  

Although, there was one sewing project made this month from polyester fabric, I tried to steer away from petroleum based fabrics.  It was a fabric that had been in the stash for decades.  Otherwise, sewing sustainably meant mending and refashioning.  A long held onto dress that no longer fits was transformed into a pull-on skirt.  And all of the other projects were made with natural fiber fabrics.  

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

This month was all about sewing basics, a few projects for others and a few for moi plus a refashion project.  Top L to R:  merino wool skirt (OOP Butterick 5790), polyester knit half slip (OOP Butterick 5790, one of two cotton knit undershirts (OOP Kwik Sew 3645 and gifted), wool, silk and cotton plaid skirt (The Assembly Line maxi skirt), wool winter white pull-on pants (Butterick 6717), refashion project (snug dress into a pull-on skirt), Super Mario cotton print shirt (OOP and vintage Butterick 2122 and gifted) and butterfly print t-shirt (OOP Vogue 9057 / re-issued as Vogue 1733 and gifted).  

Stash busting

This month there were eleven metres of fabric, 3.7 metres of elastic, 3.5 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape, 0.10 metres of fusible interfacing and 5 recycled buttons were stash-busted this month.  One new pattern was used this month.  

What's Next? 

For certain, more continued work on sewing sustainably.  

Happy sewing!   

Wool Maxi Skirt: OOP Butterick 5970

Not sure what to say about this easy project.  First, it can be whipped up in an afternoon.  The challenging and most time-consuming part of this project was trying to achieve a nice finish on the serger.  But that is more about messing around with the dials on the serger than the pattern.  It's made from one pattern piece, same piece is cut for the front and back.  The casing for the elastic is made by folding over the top of the skirt and stitching.  The hem was top-stitched as well.  This is a great beginners' project for someone who would like to try sewing knits.  

The knit stitch on the Janome sewing machine was used for the seams and top-stitching.  And of course a walking foot for sewing knits.  

Let's talk about the fabric!  It is a merino wool from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics and it is lovely.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the dryer with several damp towel.  It will be hand-washed and laid out to air dry going forward.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  1 metre 

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5970

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, safety pins, Janome serger, tweezers, polyester threads, thread clipper, iron, ironing board, measuring gauge and measuring tape.  

Happy Sewing!

Half Slip Plus More: OOP Butterick 5790

This half slip is going to replace this one.  You see, last year when I made that half slip, I cut the fabric so that the stretch was going in the wrong direction.  Oops.  I tried to wear it over the winter but I found my movement restricted when climbing up the stairs.  Like I said, oops.  

This, you can say is my redemption slip and so I have something to prevent static cling during the winter while wearing a knit skirt or dress.  Fingers crossed.  

The fabric is a polyester knit.  It's not my personal favourite fabric to sew or wear but it was in the stash for decades now and it works for this project.  There is more of this fabric left and I'll finish using up the yardage to make some more camisoles.

Talking about camisoles, one more came off the sewing machine last night.  This latest version is exactly like the one made and blogged about yesterday.  And like the previous version, it was gifted.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.8 metres (slip) + 0.5 metres (undershirt)

Elastic:  0.9 metres

Pattern (slip):  OOP Butterick 5790

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, polyester threads, thread clippers, safety pins and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Edits: Tank top / OOP Kwik Sew 3645

First, thank you to Kay for that description that I was looking for, a tank.  Well, I'm back at it sewing undergarments but this one has been gifted.  

It's a little different from the one sewn yesterday.  This one has more ease around the mid-section by fanning out the hemline from the centers by two inches on the fold.  The back neckline has been lowered by an inch at the center back and graded to nothing at the shoulder seam.  It has been shortened the same length as the one made yesterday.  Oh, one more change, the shoulder seam was taken in another half inch.  

The fabric is the same medium weight cotton knit used for the previous version.  That's it other than it was well received and that made me happy.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, clapper (used as pattern weight), pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, cotton thread, Janome serger, polyester threads, thread clippers, tweezers, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

If You Can't Find it, Make it: Camisole / OOP Kwik Sew 3645

I was surprised while shopping this weekend, that in racks and racks of undergarments, not one camisole was to be found.  Not one.  And when I asked the young sales clerk where the camisoles are, she looked at me like I asked her where I can find pink and yellow polka dot elephants.  Do young people not know what a camisole is?  Or is there a new name for what I'm looking for?  

Basically, I'm looking for a garment to wear under my clothes to replace my bras.  

And I'm not looking for a sports bra or Spanx® product (fifty bucks for a Spanx® camisole and no information on the fibre content!).  I want something in cotton.  I want to be comfortable in my clothes.  Period.   Why is it so hard to find a simple camisole in the stores and why is important information lacking online?    

If you can't find it, make it.  Last night I looked through my sewing patterns and came across out-of-print Kwik Sew 3645 which worked out just fine.  

OOP Kwik Sew 3645 is actually a sleepwear pattern and designed for woven fabrics.  I traced out the pattern in a smaller size and used a camisole I already have to come up with a shape I hoped would work for knits.  I like the undershirt vibe with the shoulder straps and it's cotton and comfortable.  Win!  Instead of cutting out the pattern piece for seam binding, it was serged and turned down 1/4" before top-stitching in place.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit that has been in the stash for many, many moons.  It's the same fabric used for this project from a couple of years ago.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble through the wash and drying cycles.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 3645

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, pencil, paper scissors, fabric scissors, assorted objects used as pattern weights, Janome sewing machine, cotton thread, Janome serger, polyester threads, thread clippers and coffee.  

Happy Sewing! 

Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt: The Assembly Line (TAL) S:404

In my quest for easy accessible pull-on clothes, TAL's elastic waist maxi skirt hit the sewing table.   

This is pattern number S:404, their A-line shaped maxi skirt with a four inch wide waistband.  It has deep patch pockets that are perfect and top-stitched in place.  

If you're thinking that it doesn't look like a maxi skirt, it may be that I had to shorten the length about five inches to achieve the maxi-length look on me.  It's still well below my knee on my barely five foot frame.  This is the only alteration that I made to the pattern.  For the elastic casing, the widest elastic found in my stash was used, a two inch wide elastic instead of four inch wide elastic called for.  I divided the casing opening into two by topstitching down the middle and inserted two lengths of the two inch elastic.  

A plaid fabric seemed appropriate with autumn's official arrival this week.  This fabric is decades old, many decades.  And it appeared here a few years ago when I made this skirt and dress.  Sadly, that skirt made from OOP Vogue 1567 doesn't fit.  But I digress.  The fabric is a lovely wool, silk and cotton blend that I picked up in Toronto.  Sometimes you hold onto fabric because it's too precious and such a rare find, this was one of those pieces.  This is the last piece of yardage.  Although I do have some scraps and the old plaid skirt made with Vogue 1567, maybe something else may appear with this fabric?  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Elastic:  1.8 metres -- 2" width

Pattern:  S:404 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, assorted objects used as pattern weights, thread clippers, measuring gauge, seam ripper, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, tweezers, screwdriver, iron, ironing board, safety pins and a chai latte.  

Happy Sewing!

Winter White Wool Pants: Butterick 6717

I have always wanted a winter white pair of pants although I don't know how practical these will be to wear outdoors this coming winter.  Don't trust the pristine white images of snow shown in the Hallmark Christmas movies filmed up here.  It can get pretty gray and slushy up in these parts during the winter.  Although the first snow fall is quite stunning in its beauty.  

Pristine white prairie snow, only in the movies!   
Photo Credit:  About a Kiss Before Christmas {Source}

Maybe while the temperatures are an autumn cool and I can still wear shoes.  Otherwise, these may end up being a pair of indoor winter wool pants.  We'll see how the season turns out.  We're supposed to be entering into an El Nino winter pattern and it's predicted that we'll get lots of snow.  But I digress.  

These are made with a trusted pattern, Butterick 6717.  This pattern is currently available as a PDF pattern over on Simplicity website.  I'm just happy I have a hard copy because I'm not a fan of PDF patterns and I would have missed out on this pattern otherwise.  This pants pattern is comfortable and comfort is important.  Needless to say, I do recommend this one.  I really like the comfort of the elastic back and the dart-less front.  

The fabric is a British wool from Fabricland and that has been in the stash for decades.  At one point recently, I did think about selling it to Winnipeg Sews but it didn't make it into the pile because upon inspection, it had a couple of small holes in the fabric.  Luckily, there was enough fabric to cut around those damaged spots.  I am so glad I didn't sell it, I'm really thrilled with how these pants turned out.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Elastic:  0.7 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6717

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, regular presser foot, blind hem foot, safety pins, thread clippers, Janome serger, threads, iron, ironing board, clapper, pressing mitt, measuring gauge, seam ripper, tailor's chalk and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Refashion Project: A New Skirt

It has been years since I wore a size small and this dress.  It's a ready-to-wear number from Italy.  I loved the workmanship, the style and the 100% cotton fabric.  It was comfortable and stylish and I felt good when I wore this dress.  

I really like the high waisted skirt with it's pleating all around finished with the tie belt.  The bodice was fitted and it has a handkerchief hem.  And the interior of the invisible zipper was finished with seam binding.  I have never seen a zipper finished so beautifully and with so much attention to details that were only known to the wearer.  The only detail this dress lacked were pockets.  Of pockets would have taken this to a state of perfection.  But I digress.  

Back to post-menopause reality, my size small days are long behind me so it was about time that I try to figure out what to do with this dress.  There was a small tear at the invisible zipper seam.  So donating it was not really an option.  And I do like the fabric so I held onto it thinking that I would cut it up and reuse the fabric. Yesterday, I had a different idea.  Could the skirt be saved?  

A plan came together when I pulled another skirt from the it-doesn't-fit pile.  This skirt is from about a decade ago and was made with vintage McCall's 7870 and the cotton sateen fabric was still in good condition.  From the front piece I cut a length to use as an insert for the dress skirt.  

The front facing from OOP McCall's 7870 was stitched down and used as a casing for elastic.  and it became a panel piece for the center back of the dress skirt.  I could narrow the panel piece, it is quite generous.  But I also can get away with it since the tie belt holds it in place.  

Right now, I'm just glad I have a skirt that fits.  

Happy Sewing!  

Super Mario Shirt: OOP and Vintage Butterick 2122

This boy's shirt, made with vintage and out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 2122, is for a little guy who is into all things.  Super Mario™ is a fictional character created by Nintendo for a series of video games dating back to nineteen eighty-five.  Since then it has grown into one of best selling video game franchises.  That's about all I know about Super Mario™ other than it's big enough to have its own fabric design printed and available to make a little boy, hopefully, very happy.  

The print on the fabric is a one-way design and it has a narrow width and ate up most of the 1.6 metres I picked up for this project.  It was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer followed by a steam pressing before hitting the cutting table.  

The pattern is an old one.  There is no date to be found on the envelope but by the illustrations it does scream 1950's with the plaid cuffed denim pants and pleated cuffed long sleeve shirt.  It certainly doesn't look like it's from a later decade.  Even the pattern instructions read of an older vintage.  As far as the pattern design, it's adorable.  I went with the short sleeve shirt and the mock cuff is too cute.  I did have some trouble fitting at the armscye.  There was some trimming down the sides to make it fit.  Otherwise, everything was peachy.  

Sew Sustainable

Keeping in mind that "sew sustainable" is the theme for National Sewing Month here are a few ways that this is a sustainable project.  

First, it is made with a natural fibre fabric, 100% cotton.  A 100% cotton fabric is completely biodegradable.  This fabric is a strong and durable fabric choice.  Cotton is comfortable, breathable and hypoallergenic, a perfect choice for a little boy to run around in.  It's a low maintenance fabric that is easy to clean and can be machine washable which makes it a perfect choice for the family budget.  

The buttons were from the recycled buttons stash.  There is a big stash collected over decades.  Mom often rescued buttons off clothing that reached the end of their life cycle and became cleaning clothes.  Rescued and recycled buttons are my go-to source before even thinking about shopping for new buttons.

Search the thread stash.  Instead of picking out new thread to match this particular shade of green, this project was sewn and serged with whatever shades of green thread were found in the thread stash.  It wasn't a perfect match but it worked.  

Vintage patterns are often as good as the new ones currently for sale at the fabric store.  And often I stumble across a gem at the second hand store that hasn't even been open.  Most of the second hand patterns I come across are for kids clothes.  This particular pattern was a freebie, a gift from another Etsy seller, that has been in the pattern stash for years, unused until now.  I never thought at the time I received it that I would need a size six little boy's shirt pattern.  Right now with global inflation and rising costs of everything, it's a welcome gift.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.6 metres (narrow width)

Interfacing:  0.1 metre fusible

Buttons:  5 

Pattern:  Vintage Butterick 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, iron, ironing board, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, regular presser foot, buttonhole foot, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, threads, tailor's wax, Janome serger, thread clippers, screwdriver, tea and several breaks along the way.  

Happy Sewing and National Sewing Month!  

September is National Sewing Month: Sew Sustainable

 

A Few Tips for Sustainable Sewing  

1.  Before donating clothes that may eventually end up in the landfill, see if they can be refashioned.  There are so many ideas that you can find by doing a simple online search or by following your favourite refashioners on social media.  Do you have a t-shirt with artwork or a graphic design that still holds meaning but doesn't fit like it once did?  Recently, such a project ended up on the work table and I was thrilled with the save.  

  2.  Mending matters when it comes to sustainable living.  Just like vehicles and homes, clothes need maintenance as well.  If you're new to mending, check out local sewing and arts communities for help.  Often they will run community events.  

3.  Save those scraps!  My mom used to save her fabric scraps from a sewing project in case it could be used for future repairs or alterations.  They can come in handy for recreating new pieces of fabric for a future project as well.  

Happy National Sewing Month!  

Butterfly T-shirt: OOP Vogue 9057 / Vogue 1733

The fabric is the same as the fabric used for the butterfly t-shirt I made last month.  The sizing is different as this one is for a taller person.

The Pattern

Out-of-print Vogue 9057 has been in the pattern stash for years and I've used it many times before.  It has become a TNT pattern for me with some modifications.  This time a round I'm using it for someone else and using one of the previously made t-shirts to check the fit.   There were some more modifications to accommodate length preferences.  I kept the same changes to the neckline and flared out the front and back pattern pieces one and a half inches from the centers (less ease than the first butterfly print t-shirt).  The sleeve pattern was lengthened five inches and the hem was lengthened six inches.  

I have it listed here as an out-of-print pattern but it's actually the number, Vogue 9057, that seems to have been retired.  This Marcy Tilton design can still be found relisted as Vogue 1733.   

Fabric

The fabric is a cotton knit from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  There wasn't much left on the bolt of the purple butterfly print but they also have two other colours shown here.  

It is a cotton knit and the quality and hand of this fabric is what drew me to it in the first place.  And then throw in that this is a comfortable knit to wear.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the wash cycle and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a light press.  Then it was onto to cutting table.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9057 / Currently listed as Vogue 1733

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, straight ruler, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and chai tea.  

Happy Sewing!