Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part IV)

 

I'm not feeling my best and when it comes to picking out something from the closet I'm just looking for loose fitting items.  

It's getting hot  outside with plus thirty temperatures.  If I didn't have a follow-up doctor's appointment regarding my wrist I would stay indoors the whole day.  

Another hot day calls for loose-fitting shorts and a short sleeve t-shirt (RTW) to run out for a physio appointment.  Still not feeling great and after physio and errands it was into a robe and early to bed.  

I did manage to get in a short walk this morning and then the rest of the day was spent still not feeling my best.  Another early-to-bed day and rotating the heat pad from various body parts.  

Don't be fooled with the wool cardigan, it was another hot day that I spent in an air conditioned environment.  

I managed to get a walk-in appointment and yup, still not feeling well.  Thankfully, I was able to fill a new prescription and will soon be on the mend.  And then maybe my me-made picks won't be so boring?  I feel like this little exercise has become Me-Made-Jammies instead of Me-Made-May.  

Most of the week they are calling for rain and thunderstorms so this morning looks like my chance to get some grass cutting done.  RTW jeans and an old me-made t-shirt (not shown) to do yardwork before changing into these me-mades.  

Well, so much for those thunderstorms the weather channels and evening news were predicting.  It was a sunny hot day spent indoor in the air conditioning.  My clothing choices reflect the need for loose-fitting comfortable pieces rather than dressing for the heat.  

May in Review...

Sewing, Alterations and Mending Projects

There was some sewing!  Top L to R:  Cotton pullover top (I AM CLOHETTE by IAMPATTERNS), cotton sweatshirt fleece robe (out-of-print 7018), cotton t-shirt (out-of-print Vogue 9057), cotton / polyester Henley style men's shirt (McCall's 6973), cotton / polyester men's sweatpants (out-of-print Kwik Sew 3663), pink wool pull-on pants (out-of-print Butterick 6717).  

Remember that silk noir top that I altered last month?  It shrank.  ~sigh~  It happened when it accidently ended up in a regular load of laundry instead of the delicates.  It's back on the alteration / mending pile to be cut up and see if I can save some of that beautiful fabric.  

Stash busting

There were 10.4 metres of fabric, 2 metres of elastic, 4 buttons, 1 -- 22" invisible zipper, 5 spools of thread and 2 labels stash busted this month.  As well, one and a half metres of fabric were added and used this month.  

Me-Made-May 

The Me-Made-May challenge was to re-think my me-made items into something more suited to my current stage of life.  Pull-on and easy accessible clothing are my dream pieces to wear.  There wasn't anything Me Made May revealed that I wanted to add to my wardrobe.  But it did reveal that there are items hanging in the wardrobe that shouldn't be there because they don't quite fit my body and current lifestyle.  Items that can be refashioned into something more suitable.  Stay tuned.  

Happy Sewing!   

Pullover Pleated Top: I AM -- CLOHETTE

This top is made with a new pattern from a French pattern company called I AM PATTERNS.  It's a new-to-me pattern company.  This is their CLOHETTE top. 

This is a simple yet well-drafted pattern.  It fits and that is key.  Another version may very well make it to the cutting table.  

Likes:  

1. Body measurements listed on the pattern include height and finished sleeve length.  
2. It is a quick and easy project to sew, this pattern is well suited for a beginner.  
3. The sleeve bands are cut out of knit fabric whereas the body pieces are cut from a woven and this gives it a relaxed t-shirt vibe.  
4. An IAM pattern label is included.   

Dislikes:  

1. This pattern requires tracing as the pattern pieces are overlapped on one sheet of paper.  

The fabrics used are a cotton knit from the stash for the sleeve and neck band.  The lemon print is a cotton stretch fabric recently found in the discounted section at 70% off.  It is the same fabric, although different colour, used for this project a few years ago.  It's a lovely fabric to sew.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch and knit stitch for bands.  Seam allowance of 3/8".  

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Knit  'N Stable tape:  1 metre

Pattern:  I AM -- CLOCHETTE

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, measuring tape, clapper and button tins (used as pattern weights), pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

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Me Made May 2023: From the Me Made Collection (Part III)

Another rainy day calls for flannel and wools.  

Today I tried to wear a favourite cotton sateen skirt, OOP Vogue 1247, but it didn't last as I was bloated and it just felt uncomfortable.  Some clothes I want to wear, but ease and comfort have more importance now-a-days with the unpredictability of my body shape.  Elastic waistbands are my saving clothing feature.  

A new t-shirt added to the me-made selection and collection of comfortable cotton wears.  

A cool start to the day is reflected in my clothing choices.  Perhaps, a pair of pants might have been a better choice.  

The end of the Victoria Long Weekend was a quiet day spent at home cooking meals for the freezer and baking a Lemon Banana bread loaf.  

The first part of the day was spent cutting the grass in jeans and a me-made t-shirt (no shown here).  And then after a mid-day bath it was into a me-made outfit.  

Front Zippered Robe: OOP Simplicity 7018

Out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 7018 was a second hand store find that I couldn't pass up.  I picked it up for under forty-cents!  I don't need a robe, I have a cotton terry one that I am quite happy with and have no intention of replacing anytime soon.  But I do like the idea of loungewear, a housedress if you like, something cozy to wear around the house while doing housework or to wear at the end of the day while I curl up with a chai latte and book.  That's the dream.  

OOP Simplicity 7018 is a well-drafted pattern.  I would certainly recommend this pattern if you come across it.  Being a petite (under five foot), I really like the raglan sleeves over the set-in sleeves with dropped shoulders found in most of the current robe options out there. 

This version is view F with the front zipper.  I borrowed the front patch pockets from the other versions (A, C and D) of the robe and used it here.  Otherwise, it's straight from the envelope.  I didn't shorten the length anywhere.  

The fabric was a remnant piece found in the discounted bin at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many moons ago.  It is a sublime sweatshirt fleece from Katia Fabrics.  It's the last piece of Katia fabric in my fabric stash and I have to say it's been a pleasure to work with these fabrics for this and all the previous projects.  It really is lovely quality fabric.  I would recommend it if you're looking for a quality cotton sweatshirt type fabric.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Tips and Techniques

This robe pattern has several front closure  options.  View F has an invisible zipper and I have a few tips for sewing these types of zippers.  The first would be to use basting tape instead of pins for holding the zipper in place.  I especially like this when there is a seam line that I'm trying to match.  The second is to invest in an invisible zipper foot for your machine.  And I'm not referring to those plastic ones found in craft stores.  I've tried those and it's not worth what you think you will be saving.  For quality workmanship, invest in the best quality tools you can afford.  Remember to search second hand stores, sometimes you can find sewing machine presser feet in the craft / thread sections and you can save there instead of spending on those plastic versions.  One more tip regarding invisible zippers, open and press the zipper teeth flat before attaching it to the fabric piece.  

Pre-treat your fabric.  I can't say this enough.  Of course, the main reason is to pre-shrink your fabric before cutting.  Then there is the added bonus of working with a clean piece of cloth.  Cotton fabrics generally shrink about 5% after washing.  Considering this, wouldn't it be better not to mess with fit and shrinkage after a project is sewn?  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch and 2.6 - 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.8 metres

Label:  1 - KATM care label

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Basting tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 7018

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, spring hinge fabric scissors, wrist brace, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, screwdriver, threads, Janome serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash and Scrap Busting: Knit Pullover Top / OOP Vogue 9057

This project started out as a scrap busting project.  The plan was to use up the last bits of this cute llama print fabric left over from a wrap dress that was made last year.  

There wasn't enough to cut out all of the pattern pieces, only the front and sleeves.   The back was cut from a burgundy colour knit found in the fabric stash.  

I used out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057, adding some extra ease into some key areas.  

1. Shortened and even out the hem.  
2. Added 1" around the neckline.  
3. From the new hem length, at the centre front and back, the pattern piece was moved 2" from the fold.  
4. Added 1/2" from the top of the bodice side seam and omitted the side seam curve/shaping grading out beyond the medium cutting line by 1" at the lower end of the side bodice.  
5. Half an inch of ease was added to the top of the side sleeve pattern piece tapering to original width at the hem.  
6. The sleeve length was shortened based on available scraps.  The finished sleeve is around the 3/4 sleeve length.  
7. The side seams were stitched with a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Tips and Techniques

I've mentioned it before, Knit 'N Stable tape is a favourite sewing notion at my ironing board.  In this project it was used at the neckline, sleeve and bodice hems.  It provides a bit of stability and helps with nice top-stitched hem finish.  

Purchase the best fabric scissors that your sewing budget will allow and take care of them.  The extra time you take to wipe off the lint off the scissor blades will pay in the long run.  

Know and pre-treat your fabric.  Both of these two fabrics are cotton knits and typically there is a 5% shrinkage rate with cotton.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (Lightening bolt stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Pattern calls for 1.4 metres 

Label:  1 care instruction label

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9057

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, Merchant and Mills tailor shears, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, measuring tape, measuring gauge, wrist brace and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part II)

 

The sunshine came out and it's starting to warm up again but it was all about managing back pain and finding easy to wear items.  

The thunderstorm held off until the evening allowing for some flower bed clean up and errands to be done.  

After a haircut appointment and afternoon bath, a second Eva dress made an appearance.  

This week is ending like it began, not feeling my best.  Back pain.  Wrist is still not as flexible as pre-cast and just fatigued.  

I was hoping to get the grass cut today but it didn't happen.  

Sometimes I forget how much pink is sitting in the closet.  

The cotton shirt was worn with jeans and rubber boots as I tried to get the grass cut before the heat settled in for the day.  I only made it half way through before I had to give up.  I'm not a fan of the heat.  And it's tick season so long sleeves and jeans are a must.  The skirt was worn with a RTW t-shirt that I altered years ago.  

It's all about wearing comfortable cottons today.  Another hot day.  

Rainy afternoon was in the forecast so the wool pieces came out of the closet.  

What did I learn this week about my me-made wardrobe?  Well, it is true that loved clothes last and that it does not end once an item leaves the sewing machine.  Many of these pieces have required some tender loving mending over the years to remain in rotation.  And all those Eva dresses are so comfortable and have passed the test of time.  It's one of my favourite warm weather picks.  But I really need to get to work on adding flannel sleepwear into the rotation.

In Sewing News Today...

This silk top was recently added back into the wardrobe rotation after it was altered with a hem band.

And then it accidently found its way into a regular cycle load of laundry.  [Insert great disappointment.]  And now it is no longer part of the wardrobe as it shrunk and no longer fits.  Too bad there isn't a method to unshrink silk noir.  

~sigh~

It's on the scraps cutting pile to see if I upcycle that beautiful fabric into something else.  

This past weekend at the mall, there was art displays by the neighbourhood elementary to high school students' work.  This t-shirt message caught my attention and produced a chuckle and nod.  

It had a retro feel from the distance with the oversized t-shirt style.  A sort of Katherine Hamnent vibe was going on.  And then at a closer look the red rhinestones killed that vibe.  Ah, the wisdom and dreams of youth.  Wouldn't it be wonderful if people didn't judge and gossip about others based on what they wear?  

I dropped off some items at the second hand store and received a 20% off coupon for the donation.  So, I made my way inside to check out the second hand finds.  

I came across this uncut, out-of-print (OOP) and factory-folded (FF) Simplicity 7018 robe pattern.  It's a thirty-nine cent find before the discount.  Sweet deal!  I quite like the raglan sleeves on this one.  And there is a Katia sweatshirt weight knit with a penguin print sitting in the fabric stash.  They will make a fun robe for the winter.  Hmmm, I think I found my next sewing project.  I just need to pretreat my fabric, check the zipper stash and get started on this one.  

Happy Sewing!

A Long Time in the Making: Men's Henley Shirt / McCall's 6973

This project was started early on while I was wearing a cast.  That's a couple of months ago.  It stalled when it came to doing some hand stitching which would have been impossible in a cast.  I finally got around to it recently, okay somewhat recently, and finished it off.  

McCall's 6973 has been in the pattern stash for over a year.  I've been meaning to sew some Henley style t-shirts since it's challenging to find ones with a pocket in the RTW landscape.  Of course, I can buy a Henley t-shirt at Costco for a fraction of the cost of a home-made t-shirt but then I'm sacrificing fit and a pocket.  Fit and pockets are important features in clothing even though it doesn't appear to resonate in the fast-fashion landscape.  In the end, it's worth the time to sew one instead.  Throw in having the choice of fabric.  

The fabric is a recent-ish find, picked up specifically for this project.  This mini waffle knit was found in the discounted section at the local Fabricland store at 50% off.  It is 80% cotton and 20% polyester and I picked up an additional 0.10 metre to allow for potential shrinkage.  It was pretreated with a tumble in a normal wash cycle followed by time in the dryer.  No need to press after it came out of the dryer.  And I needed every centimeter of fabric.  I'm so glad for the extra buffer of fabric.  

Techniques and Tips

Cutting this fabric was a challenge with my fabric shears and wearing a cast.  For this project I used spring hinge scissors and even though it still took a bit of time to get it pinned and cut, I was able to get it cut.  

Sewing wise, one of my favourite tips for sewing knits is to use Knit 'N Stable tape at the hem edges before sewing the hem in place.  I also used Knit 'N Stable tape to stabilize the shoulder seam.  I serged the seam edges together to save time and thread.  I usually serge each edge individually and press them open but now-a-days things add up. 

Walking foot!  Seriously, it is a life saver when it comes to sewing knits.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.3 metres

Buttons:  4

Pattern:  McCall's 6973

Additional Tool & Supplies:  Cutting table, spring hinge fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Brother vintage sewing machine (it's built-like-a-tank and sews amazing buttonholes), tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, Janome serger, threads (silk thread for hand stitching), iron, ironing board, bandages, make-up sponges (used for padding along the cast edges) and many breaks along the way.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Men's Sweatpants / OOP Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

 

This project is a revisit of out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 3663 and the cargo pocket pattern piece from McCall's 6973.  The front facing cargo pocket without the pocket flap was a big hit so this is the now go-to design for Men's pull-on pants around here.  Sadly, Kwik Sew pattern company is no longer.  They made trusted and well drafted patterns and are sorely missed.  A back-up copy might be in order since this pattern has become a go-to in recent times.  

The fabric is a cotton blend sweatshirt fleece.  It was a somewhat recent purchase for a sweatshirt project but became gifted for this one instead.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing and drying cycles before hitting the cutting table.  

The casing hold a 1 1/4 inch elastic and there is a 1 1/2" topstitched hem.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch and knit stitch at the crotch seam

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Patterns:  OOP Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, spring hinged fabric shears, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Jean-a-ma-Jig, threads, Janome serger, screwdriver, iron, ironing board, thread clippers, wrist brace and a few breaks here and there.  

Happy Sewing!

Me Made May 2023: From the Me-Made Collection (Part I)

The weather is all over the place and so are my clothing choices.  The only consistency in the first part of the Me-Made-May has been a selection natural fibre fabrics and a lot of pull-on clothing items.   

The wrap dress was chosen because of its easy access (no zips or buttons) and short sleeves since I woke up with the cast.  Thankfully, it came off today!  The sweater was worn under a RTW denim jacket because it was cool this morning and only a high of plus ten (Celsius) today.  Once I realized that it was windy, I regretted the decision to wear the wrap dress.  Thank goodness Diane Von Furstenberg designed a dress with ample skirt coverage even for a windy day.  And flannel pajamas because they are just too cozy.  

Wow!  I didn't expect my hand to feel as sore as it did today which surprised me while getting dressed.  Although, it was great not having choice limited to what would fit over the cast. It was all about choosing items without zippers and buttons and dressing in layers that could be peeled off as the weather warmed up throughout the day.  

First time it felt like summer this year!  And that sunshine, woohoo!  No jacket or coat needed today.  Although, I did wear a sweater this morning.  Today's clothing choices were all about avoiding zippers and buttons.  Easy comfortable pull-over or pull-on pieces ruled as me-made picks.   

Spring cleaning and going through the closet to assess what needs fixing or needs to become something new.  Not these me-made pieces, they were perfect to throw on and get to work.  

Today's me-mades were all about being comfortable for a pretty low key day at home and running errands.  

This is not the whole picture.  This morning was dedicated to yardwork and for that I wore RTW clothing (jeans and a sweatshirt).    

It was another low key day close to home and running errands.  I wore a RTW jean jacket when out-and-about but it did not feel warm enough for the cloudy day.  Rain is in the forecast for the next few days and the warmth of the sun is already missed.  The Tulip Dress is the only item worn this week that has a back zipper.  Thankfully, it is not needed.  I can wear it as a pull-on dress.  

Rainy and cold day calls for flannel, tweed and a sweater.  

What I've discovered so far?  I want another pair of flannel pajamas in the mix.  And I really would like to have another pair of Vogue 9246 pants maybe in a wool suiting fabric.  I'm not sure when I will find the time to get on those wish list items though.  Right now there are a couple of projects for others on the worktable.  But only time will tell.  

Until then, Happy Sewing!