New Wool Skirt

Stash-busting 2013:  Project #5

Fabric Used:   1.8 metre of plaid wool.  It has been in my fabric stash since June 2012, when I discovered it in the bargain section of the fabric store reduced down to 70% off. Did I need this piece of wool? No. I just can't figure out if I'm a bigger sucker for a bargain or for beautiful plaid fabric. It might be both.

Interfacing:      2, 3/4" wide and 8" long strips busted out of my sewing stash.

Pattern Used:  Vogue 8835, a recent addition to my pattern stash in the fall of 2012.

Zipper:               7" regular zipper, has been in my sewing stash for years now.

*****

The Vogue pattern was spot on with a very easy pattern rating. It would be great skirt pattern for beginners too. This is going into my favourite pile of patterns because the fit is also spot on. I'm so pleased.

I used Janet Pray's technique for sewing a centred zipper. You can check out her segment on It's Sew Easy that is posted on their website right now.

I cut two 3/4" strips of fusible interfacing and fused them to the edge of the fabric where I plan to sew my zipper. There is no basting the zipper opening closed in her technique.

Instead she kept it open pressing 5/8" allowance. The chalk markings on my skirt are for those that are less experienced or fearful of zipper applications.

I'm not afraid to admit my fear, sew away I chalked. I marked off a line from my pressed under seam allowance 1/4" away from the edge.

I'm ready to sew but I had some difficulty at this stage. My wool fabric and zipper proved to be too bulky and awkward to place under the presser foot easily.

I solve this issue with a small piece of basting tape that I used to attach the top of the zipper.  That was it, I didn't pin, baste or use anymore basting tape. I followed Janet's technique and for the most part it worked like a charm.

My fabric proved to be a challenge and if I could I would have used the jean-a-mag-jig I would have to get over the thickest part of my fabric.

It is not the best looking zipper application but I'm not disappointed either. I am quite pleased with the plaid matching below the zipper. Once I installed the zipper the perfectly matched plaid shifted. I'm okay with this imperfection since the jacket and sweater I plan to wear with it will hide this flaw in my work.

Janet's technique would be wonderful on a fabric that didn't have seam bulk to contend with and I'm going to revisit this to test out my theory.

I made a small change with the lining for the skirt facing/

waist-band. I chose to a different fabric than the wool I used for the skirt and I didn't feel like working with lining fabric. Instead I had some left over British wool that was perfect for the job. It is light weight, has some structure and allowed me to omit the interfacing called for in the pattern.

Overall, I'm quite pleased with my new skirt. I didn't make any design changes to the skirt and I don't think I would in the future. This pattern is perfect. I just have to work on my zipper application. I'm going to have to practice this new technique.  

Happy Sewing!