Saturday, 18 November 2017

Pyjama Top: Butterick 6296

I chose this Lisette pattern, Butterick 6296, as the top half of my pyjama set and mixed up details between view A and B.


I wanted some piping and long sleeves and went from there.  I omitted the piping from the collar and front edge shown on view B, going for the clean finish illustrated in view A.  I kept the long sleeves, and at the last minute I changed my mind about the piping on the sleeve band. The only place I used piping was on the pocket facing. I cut the length shown in view A and went with the chest pocket instead of the patched hem pockets. And this is another reason why I like sewing, I'm in charge of the details that I find appealing and want.


The little chest pocket is more decorative than functional and I'm okay with that since the pockets on the matching pyjama pants are quite generous. The challenge of sewing the pocket on was eliminated with the aid of the jean-a-ma-jig®.

Back view.

The December 2017 / January 2018 issue of Vogue Patterns has an article titled, "Luxe Pajamas to Give or Keep" by Kathryn Brenne. It is a wonderfully detailed article on making a beautiful 100% silk crepe back satin pyjama set. My humble cotton jammies are not as fancy but I did take note of something that made my pyjamas special, a back neck facing.


A lot of vintage patterns from a certain age used to include back facings but you don't see them anymore. Kathryn Brenne is right with drafting this piece. I think it looks and feels great. I used the back pattern piece as a guide for the shoulder and neckline and then free hand drew the rest. I interfaced this piece, stitched it to the front facing, serged it and then stitched it in place after the facings and collar were sewn.

Grading the seam allowances.  
The fabric is a 100% cotton and was pre-treated as outlined in this post. The buttons may now be considered vintage. I picked up a box when Eaton's was closing down many moons ago. Even though they are suit buttons, they have become my go-to pyjama buttons over the years. The colour worked out perfect for this fabric.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  1.2 metres fusible interfacing

Buttons:   5 - 19 mm 

Piping:   0.1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6296

Additional Tools & Supplies: Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measure gauge, sewing machine, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, serger, thread, thread clippers, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, hand needle, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!    

Friday, 17 November 2017

Pyjama Bottoms: Vogue 9217

A designer Vogue pattern for pull-on pants with a shaped hem made the perfect pair of pyjama bottoms. 


The pattern is Kathryn Brenne's Vogue 9217 and I'm quite happy with how these turned out. They have generous pockets, an elasticized waist, and the cutest seam binded hem. There will defiantly be another pair or two in my sewing future. I'm thinking the reversible top that is part of this pattern along with another pair of pants would make a cute summertime outfit. But I digress...   


The fabric is a 100% cotton. It was pretreated with a cycle through the washing machine and tumble in the dryer followed by a pressing on the steam setting. The pattern was shortened by an inch and I had to grade the pattern up to a large to provide the amount of ease I want for pyjama bottoms. The pattern is a multi-sized pattern but I purchased the smaller size thinking that the loose-fitting description would be enough. Perhaps loose-fitting referred to the other garments in the pattern? Or maybe I need to do some more squats? Anyway, it all worked out perfectly.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres

Elastic:  1.2 metres of 25 mm wide elastic

Seam binding:  1.65 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, thread, seam ripper, iron, ironing board, and tea. 

Happy Sewing!   


Thursday, 16 November 2017

National Button Day!

Today is National Button Day.

Clockwise top L to R:  recycled large black rose coat button, green and blue vintage buttons circa 1960s, vintage black and silver buttons, new burgundy shirt buttons, recycled large red decorative buttons, polka dot buttons, large rooster decorative button, red shirt buttons, and black and silver coat buttons.  
A day to celebrate buttons! When it comes to sewing clothes, I prefer using buttons to sewing a zipper. It's just easier to get in and out of a garment with buttons never mind replacement. I would much rather replace a button than replace a zipper! And buttons can be decorative besides functional. Sure, there are decorative zippers out on the market but do they really compare to these gorgeous buttons?  
There are so many buttons out there that are tiny pieces of art. Of course there would be a National Button day! If you're interested in reading a fascinating piece on the history of buttons and some beautiful visuals, I recommend this read.

Happy Sewing!  (with buttons!) 


Tuesday, 14 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Today started off with the heartbreaking news that Nancy Zieman passed away early this morning.


Back in September, not long ago, she wrote a message to her viewers that she would be retiring from her program and that the next fifteen new episodes would be her last. It was a terribly sad good-bye as she hinted that the end was near. I don't have a lot of words other than the sadness felt at this news.  Rest in peace gentle soul.  



  

Friday, 10 November 2017

Pleated Skirt: OOP Vogue 9951

Sometimes you just feel like breaking the rules.  


I made this skirt with out-of-print Vogue 9951, circa 1996, in a canvas, almost denim, weight fabric. But that is not where I broke the rules. This Vogue pattern lists view A and B pleated skirts as "unsuitable for obvious diagonals, plaids or stripes." 


It's the first time trying out this pattern and the fabric was a bargain find at Ikea. So I thought what the heck and gave it a try. I won't say that I dislike it, but I'm not loving it either. It will be a good item to kick around the house in. It would probably look better in a different fabric. The pattern suggestions are for a light-weight gabardine, wool crepe and light weight woollens. It would look nice in those fabrics.  

This was all about trying the pattern. I had to make some adjustment to the size, and to be honest, I can still do some tweaking there.  I omitted the waistband only because it would have sat too high.  Instead I finished off the waistline with left over seam binding. I did the same for the hem. I wish this skirt had pockets. Pockets would have been great.  

All and all, it's a pattern worth revisiting at a later date. In the meantime, I think I can get some use out of this skirt.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  1.6 metres 

Zipper:  1 - 7" invisible zipper

Seam binding:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9951

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, serger, iron, and ironing board.

Happy Sewing!  

Thursday, 9 November 2017

Panties: Simplicity 8229

I'm revisiting Simplicity 8229 this evening. 


I made a few for Mama R a few months ago but she asked if I can sew a few with the elastic on the outside. She doesn't find how the elastic is inserted comfortable to wear. This insight has me confused because I haven't found any issue with how the elastic is sewn. But who am I to argue with how someone feels in their clothes. Comfort is everything. Before I go into production mode with these I thought I would try out a sample to see if this will work. Fingers are crossed.  

The fabric is a recent purchase. Mama R complained that the other pairs don't stay up well. And I'm certain is has to do with the fabric she chose. This cotton knit is the one that I use for my own panties so I went to pick up some more hoping that it has the amount of stretch that she finds comfortable. I found it in the discount section at Fabricland and it's currently marked down to 70% off. The picot elastic used at the leg openings came from Northwest Fabrics and boy did their stock of picot elastics sell quickly. Hopefully they'll get more in soon in a colour that better matches my fabric since I picked up enough fabric to make several pairs of panties. Since Mama R complained about how the elastic was sewn on I decided to try a lightweight lace elastic sewn on the outside of the waistline. I'm not sure if she'll like it or not but my hope is that this will be more comfortable.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  0.5 metres of cotton knit  

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Thread:  1 spool was finished off during this project

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, pin cushion, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, iron, ironing board, good tunes and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 6 November 2017

Time Will Tell

Word out on the internet is
NEWS FROM OUR PARENT COMPANY: We are excited to announce that CSS Industries, Inc. has just purchased Simplicity Creative Group. The Simplicity family of brands includes wonderful sewing patterns, of course, but also Wrights® trims and sewing notions, as well as terrific crafts brands including Boye®, Perler®, Dimensions® and American Girl Crafts®. These brands—combined with our existing CSS brands, including Offray®, Lion Ribbon™, C.R. Gibson®, La Mode® buttons, McCall’s®, Butterick® and Vogue Patterns®, and our creative and dedicated employees—will continue to bring our consumers an ever increasing variety of products and innovation all within the CSS portfolio of brands.
I'm not sure what this is going to mean for consumers, only time will tell. I'm sitting on the fence right now. Maybe I'm surprised. But there are a lot of speculation and strong opinions as to what this will mean. 

There is hope that it will mean Canadian consumers will have access to Simplicity patterns without having to fork over a small fortune in shipping and exchange rates. Or travelling across the border for a pattern run.  Fabricland stopped carrying Simplicity and New Look patterns years ago. I'm not so sure if they will reappear since even though Butterick, McCall's and Vogue are offered at Fabricland stores, they do not carry Kwik Sew which is also under the MBV umbrella. Time will tell.  

Personally, this news is greeted with the memories of what happened to the NY Collection when McCall's was picked up by CSS Industries. The short lived NY Collection designs changed once they were under the Vogue label and then they disappeared. I remember the sizing changed as it was a time when I was able to get smaller sizes than was available under Vogue. I like the fit of Simplicity patterns, I just hope they don't mess with the fit.     

Fear has also been expressed on McCall's Facebook page that this will mean less competition and higher prices. Followed by comments on how expensive not only patterns are but also that the price of notions and fabric have sky-rocketed recently. I have to agree, I've also noticed an insane increase in prices. Certain brands of zippers for example that more than doubled in price. So, I can also appreciate the fear expressed by others.  

I guess time will tell what this will mean. Until then I'll be hoping for the best.  

Happy Sewing!  


Pyjama Top: Butterick 6296

I chose this Lisette pattern, Butterick 6296 , as the top half of my pyjama set and mixed up details between view A and B. I wanted ...