Sunday, 11 November 2018

Boiled Wool Cardigan: OOP Butterick 5760

It's finished but I think I might take this cardigan back to the sewing table and add some lined pockets.

I'm undecided on the pockets. Maybe I'll sleep on it and decide in the morning.  

This project is a basically Butterick 5760 with the neckline raised and narrowed with the aid of OOP Kwik Sew 573. And then it was lowered in the front by and inch and trimmed back by five eighths of an inch. The hemline was shorted by a quarter inch and the sleeves were also shortened. 

The fabric is a boiled wool blend that I found in the clearance section marked down 70% off a few years ago. It had a border embroidery design that had some damage to it but with some careful placement I was able to cut to sleeves with no evidence of any embroidery flaws. 

The front and backs were cut on the side without the embroidery design. It is a classic and simply design but I think the details on the sleeves add a little something. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.  

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 5760

Additional Supplies &Tools:  Sewing machine, serger, cutting table, pins, scissors, tracing paper, pens, ruler, iron, ironing board, clapper, walking foot, jean-a-ma-jig, threads, hand-sewing needle, tweezers, mini-vacuum, lint brush, and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!   

Tuesday, 6 November 2018

Let it Snow!

Sometimes you just need some colour to get you through the winter. And according to the Farmers' Almanac the forecast this winter is "going to be very, very cold."  Yes, I know the 2018 -19 colour trends call for a more muted shade of green but it's not about being on trend. It is all about being warm,  survival and I won't get lost in a snow storm wearing this colour. Hopefully, I won't be outside during a snow storm. But I digress... 

A revisit with, now out-of-print (OOP), Vogue 8934 for this project. American designer Marcy Tilton created a coat pattern that I truly do admire. It is loose enough to wear layers underneath and it has pockets. And this is one well drafted pattern.  I will admit that I was tempted and did search for a new coat pattern but in the end I went with what worked in the past.

The coat fabric and quilted lining fabric have been in my stash for quite awhile. I barely had enough of the quilted lining fabric and had to piece the sleeve lining.  The same happened with the micro-fleece underlining fabric. Quilting techniques, not just for blankets.

The biggest struggle with this project was locating appropriate buttons.  Why is it so hard to find coat buttons in this town?  I went with a gold coloured button because I initially thought to go with a gold colour cotton back lining fabric. Since the window of opportunity to exchange the buttons passed the initial button remains.  Since this coat has a front fly it won't be visit when buttoned up.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.3 metres Melton wool

Underlining:  2.3 metres of micro-fleece 

Lining:  3.4 metres of quilted lining fabric. 

Interfacing:  1.2 metres sew in hair canvas

Label:  Vogue Designer

Buttons:  6 - 1/2"

Thread:  Finished off three spools of thread.  

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, thread clippers, sewing machine brush (for turning over the corners), hand needles, threads (for the serger, sewing machine, button thread for stitching the facing and buttons), sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, serger, quilter's table attachment (for the sewing machine), thimble, tea, and a visit to a massage therapist (after all those hours of hand-stitching). 

Happy Sewing!   


Monday, 22 October 2018

Sewing a Winter Coat: Tips and Tricks

The evenings are getting chilly and that's a good reminder that winter is around the corner and thoughts of sewing a winter coat come to mind.  There has been a lot of reflection on past coat projects.  Here are a few of my tips, thoughts and tricks for sewing a winter coat.  

It's an investment in both time and materials.  Take your time and enjoy the process.

  • Invest in a clapper if you're working with wool fabric or if your coat has some tailoring.  It will make a difference to the quality of your pressing.

  • A walking foot is worth every penny especially when it comes to sewing several layers together. 
  • Do some research.  Check out the latest styles at the stores and then shop at the vintages shops to compare the differences.  Some vintage coats have some smart design features that you won't find in RTW and that you might want to adapt into your new winter coat. 
  • Give special consideration to your interfacing.  Back-in-the-day, my home economic teacher taught us that your interfacing should be the same weight as your fashion fabric.  Let me just say she was right.     
  • Consider how you'll use your new winter coat, are you able to stay warm while pulling off the latest Meahen Markle inspired look?  
  • Or do you need something to fend off the below freezing temperature and mind numbing wind chills?  
  • Adding an extra layer of warmth by underlining your coat could be an option that you might want to consider.  Although, I would like to avoid man-made fibres in my clothing I will admit that adding a layer of micro-fleece as my underlining fabric proved to be a way to stay warm during those brutal windchilled days.  It proved to out-perform cotton flannel and wool suiting as underlining fabrics.  
  • Coating fabric is another consideration.  I like wool because of its anti-bacterial properties but it is also warm. Melton fabric is a traditional wool fabric know as hard wearing and both wind and weather resistant qualities.  Today, melton fabric is often found to be a blend of wool and polyester dismissing some of those traditional admirable qualities.  So read your labels.  But there are also speciality fabric that are designed to protect against the elements.  Before considering your fabric consider they lifestyle you lead.  
This will bring us to choosing your pattern.

Are you looking for a look that is comfortable and all about enjoying the great outdoor in the autumn months?  Or perhaps you live in a climate that evades the deep freeze and you can get away with this as your winter coat?  Lucky you!     

Minoru Jacket 
The Kelly Anorak Jacket

Then perhaps the Minoru Jacket by Sewaholic Patterns or The Kelly Anorak Jacket by Close Case Files might appear to your adventurous side.

Or perhaps something vintage?

There are so many options out there that can help you create a winter coat of your dreams.  I say, just go for it.  You'll be surprised just how rewarding it is to make a winter coat and it's really not that hard.  Just slow down and enjoy the process. 

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, 14 October 2018

New Skirt: OOP Vogue 9701

I've been longing for a wrap skirt but it really isn't all that practical in the windy city with winter fast approaching.  Out-of-print (OOP) Vogue Elements 9701 turned out to be the perfect alternative, "a semi-fitted, straight, mock wrap skirt."  And it was rated "very easy."   

What more could I ask for?  Pockets perhaps?  

Would you believe it has that too?  This pattern is perfect.

The plan is to make it in a wool suiting but I thought to make one in a fabric I wouldn't mind losing if the fit wasn't just right.  I used a medium weight denim that was in the stash likely from the same decade this pattern originates.  I'm so glad it fits because in the denim this turns out to be a skirt that will hold up over the winter. And it's a dark denim so I'm hoping that I might also get away with wearing this for work.  Maybe with a white shirt but I digress... 

I shortened the above-ankle length (view B) three inches.  Other than that I cut my size.  I could have used the adjustments for the petite markings closer to the waistline.  Even though I like a high waisted skirt, I could have benefited from this adjustment instead of taking off the length from the hemline.  Something to consider for next time.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres of 100% cotton denim

Zipper:  9" invisible zipper

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9701 (found on Etsy)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Iron, ironing board, cutting table, pins, pin cushion, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, serger, threads for the serger, sewing machine and hand-stitching, new serger needles, self-threading hand needle, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, basting tape, scissors, thread clippers, and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Friday, 12 October 2018

Sewing thoughts...

When did thread get so expensive?  

Seriously, I could buy lunch for the cost of one of these spools of thread. That's just bananas. 

I bought the thread.

Will be brown bagging it for the next while.

What am I thinking? I'm always brown bagging it.  It pays for the thread.   

Besides thread, there have been thoughts of winter sewing.     

Vogue Patterns came out with their new Winter / Holiday patterns this week and not one coat pattern to be found. I really thought there might be a coat pattern.  

I'm re-visiting out-of-print Vogue 8934 to make a winter coat.      

Also planning on revisiting Simplicity 8529.  

Finally decided on which fabric to get with the EmmaOneSock gift certificate. It's an "all virgin wool sweater jersey" from Italy.  They don't sell thread.  

Pretty excited about this fabric.  

Can't believe I ordered a pink fabric.  

Over-the-moon excited to find a 100% virgin wool. 

Natural fibres won over colour choice.   

First time ordering fabric on-line.  

It was weird committing to a fabric choice that I didn't feel first.  

I hope the excitement doesn't fade by the time it gets here. 

Happy Sewing!  

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

It Finally Happened.

Wow, it finally happened. Simplicity 2372 is now an out-of-print pattern. I can't recommend it anymore since, well, it's no longer available on the Simplicity website. It's a real gem. If you're lucky enough to stumble across it over on Etsy or Ebay, I would suggest grabbing it. It does seem rare to find coordinate patterns now-a-days. Here is one more version of the dress.  

The fabric is a 100% polyester print left-over from an earlier, much-earlier, project. It feels great to make something else with this fabric.  Even though I'm not one to love sewing polyester, the colours in this piece of fabric are perfect for the season.  

The Stats  

Fabric:  2 metres 

Interfacing:  0.3 metres of fusible interfacing

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, silk pins, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, blind hem foot, pin cushion, scissors, serger, thread, thread clippers, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Sunday, 30 September 2018

In Sewing News Today...

Another end to National Sewing month and even though September was a blur there was some sewing. This year's theme, generations of memories, seemed appropriate when it came to revisiting vintage McCall's 8548 at the beginning of the month. I haven't been inspired by the latest pattern offerings. It's been the oldies, the tested and true (TNT) patterns that I've been revisiting.  Although there was one new design that made it to the sewing table. My current sewing project continues with revisiting an out-of-print pattern (OOP), Simplicity 2372.  

During National Sewing month, Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic has been hosting give-aways and I was blessed in winning a gift card from Emmaonesock.         

I just have to decide on what to get.  I know that it would be something that is near impossible to find is my corner of the world, wool knit. According to the local fabric stores, I live in polyester polar fleece country so it is a real treat to pick natural fibre fabric from Emmaonesock. It's between a teal blue or a soft pink colour.  And then there is the question of quantity, do I want to make a sweater, Simplicity 8529, or a sweater dress, OOP Vogue 8939 or another Iris dress? Decisions! 

Well, that's all in today's sewing news. 

Happy Sewing!  

Boiled Wool Cardigan: OOP Butterick 5760

It's finished but I think I might take this cardigan back to the sewing table and add some lined pockets. I'm undecided on ...