Sunday 17 March 2024

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top to go with it.  The pullover top was a fail in fit and even though the skirt is comfortable it didn't see much wear this winter.  This is my attempt to finally complete a set.  

There was about 1.9 metres remaining of the merino wool fabric, not enough for a pullover top but just enough for another cardigan.  Out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 4192 has been a successful project in the past so I figure it could work here as well.  

The fit worked out perfectly.  And I'm thrilled to finally have a matching set.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.9 metres


Pattern
:  OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, seam ripper and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Thursday 14 March 2024

It's Time to Raise the White Flag: The DVF Reissued 50th Anniversary Wrap Dress / Vogue 2000

There has been a flurry of wrap dresses appearing on sewing blogs and Instagram posts the last couple of months.  It happened ever since Simplicity announced the re-release of the vintage Diane Von Furstenberg (DVF) Vogue 1549 for the 50th anniversary.  This re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern is now listed as Vogue 2000.  

Most of the early Vogue 2000 wrap dress makers appear to have received complimentary patterns and made their beautiful iconic creations in knit fabrics.  I already have a couple of DVF knit wrap dresses made with vintage Vogue 1610.  I am quite happy with these DVF wrap dresses made with OOP and vintage Vogue 1610.  I'm not sure I want another knit version of a DVF wrap dress.  

I am, however, intrigued by the option of sewing an iconic DVF wrap dress in a woven fabric.  It will certainly be a cooler option to wear in the summertime prairie heat. 

The one thing that stalled this project and jumping on the DVF reissued pattern bandwagon was the cost of ordering it via Simplicity from outside of the United States.  Pattern prices for Canadian residents went up 17% and the international shipping costs--oy!  But then I discovered a copy was available on Amazon, bye-bye twenty U.S. dollar shipping costs, hello Vogue 2000.  Sure, I could have waited until it became available in local stores after the spring release (it is available now).  But Vogue patterns are even a pricey option here north of the Canada / United States border.  Fabricland is the only retailer that carries Vogue patterns and their membership only discount on patterns have decreased to 25% off, while Vogue pattern prices increased to $42.00 Canadian.  Again--oy!  I was really thankful for finding this pattern through another source at a below Canadian and U.S. sewing retailer's listed price plus free shipping.  I would not be celebrating the 50th anniversary and sewing this DVF design otherwise.  


So, now that hunting down and adjusting the pattern is done, it's down to finding a woven fabric for the project.  This also proved to be a challenge, while I was searching through the stash for a suitable fabric I ended up re-organizing the stash.  Ah, sweet, sweet procrastination.  I finally found a soft, light-weight denim coloured Chambray, one of the suggested fabrics listed on the pattern envelope.  

And then the project stalled again after I tried it on mid-completion to check the fit.  Oy!  


The neckline is too low, way too low to feel comfortable while wearing this dress.  After the initial try-on it appears that dress is a must have a camisole or undershirt type of garment and that was not what I was looking for at all.  So much for having a wrap dress in a cooler fabric to wear in the hot prairie summers.  But I continue on despite my disappointment in the low neckline.  

With just the cuffs and hem to finish, I decided to raise the white flag on Vogue 2000.  It has more fit issues than a too-low-for-comfort neckline.   




This project is cut in a size 14, the size I typically cut in Vogue patterns.  I haven't had issues in the past sewing a garment in a size 14, even the vintage Vogue 1610, but this did not feel like it was a size 14 at all.  It is snug.  The bust dart could be lowered an inch.  The opening for the ties found at the side felt like I had reach past the side into the back region.  Yes, I did check to pattern to make sure I didn't cut a smaller size than a fourteen.  As a matter of fact, I added a 1/4" to the side seams.  Hmmm.  

I can't figure it out why I had so many fitting issues other than maybe it's not really meant for a woven fabric.  I would go up a size or two if the pattern had the larger sizes but it is the next size combination and I'm not that keen on spending more coins on this design.  

There are many things that I do love about Vogue 2000.  The interfacing attached to the dress pieces instead of the facing is something I would like to repeat on another project.  I really liked how that came out.  The seam binding technique in the interior seams were sweet.  I didn't get to sewing the French cuffs but I do admire this design feature and even had cuff links picked out.  The fit on the sleeves were nice.  I wish it turned out but I did enjoy the process until I realized it wasn't going to fit.  

I don't want to discourage anyone from sewing Vogue 2000, it just didn't work out for me.  Now to decide if I should finish and donate it or harvest the fabric into another project?  


Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres

Seam binding:  1 package

Interfacing:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 2000

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, new Universal sewing machine needle, Janome serger, screwdriver, seam ripper, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Wednesday 6 March 2024

The Golden Age of the Dress

 


Once upon a time, I often wore dresses.  A dress was my go-to piece of clothing, even for cycling.  Those days were many moons ago, what feels like a life-time ago.  


In 2023, I only managed to sew myself three dresses as my wardrobe choices shifted in another direction.  Pajama sets, pull-on pants and t-shirts ruled my 2023 wardrobe.  Of the three dresses made last year, one has been donated, another has been worn only once and one is waiting for warmer temperatures.  

And yet, on the sewing table is another dress project.  This project is all about nostalgic sewing and a longing for the golden age of the dress patterns when designers like Teal Traina, Sybil Connolly, Nina Ricci and  Diane Von Furstenberg ruled.  Sure, I do admire and enjoy sewing modern dress patterns, insert any Tilton designer dress here.  

Today, at the sewing table I'm relishing in the vintage sewing techniques and slowing down to hand baste strips of seam binding to the interior pieces on Vogue 2000, the DVF wrap dress reissued pattern.  It has vintage details and sewing techniques unseen in most current sewing patterns that elevated a design into the golden age category.  So today, on National Dress Day, I'm nostalgic for vintage sewing techniques that elevate an everyday dress towards next level special.  

Happy National Dress Day!  


Wednesday 28 February 2024

February in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Clockwise top L to R:  Tessuti Apron (free download), two cotton sateen dresses (OOP Simplicity 2372), foam block cover (self-drafted pattern), raw silk dress (OOP Simplicity 2372), foam block cover (self-drafted sewing blooper).

Mending projects kept me busy this month.  There was a small tear and undone stitches around the pocket and elastic openings of my pajama bottoms that needed some attention.  These black wool pants were hanging out in a pile of clothes that didn't fit until I lost some weight, tried them on and welcomed them back into the wardrobe.  They just required a new hook and eye stitched back in place.  This dress has been only worn once so far and ended up having two inches removed from the hem.  I hope to get more wears out of it now, it's a very comfortable dress.  And another fitted sheet had the elastic replaced.  

2024 Challenge


I can not call my pledge to sew #NoMorePolyester a win this month.  I still have quite a bit of thread and zippers that contains polyester.  And these were used in some of my projects.  Fabric wise, it was cotton and silk that ended up on the cutting table.  

Stash busting and Additions

Stash busted this month:

  • 8.8 metres of fabric 
  • 0.9 metres of interfacing 
  • 5 --- 55 cm invisible zipper
  • 3.30 metres of basting tape
This month's additions were:  
  • 10--20 mm black buttons
  • 4--1000 m spools of blue thread
  • Hannah Top and Dress pattern (PDF) by DG Patterns and the re-issued DVF wrap dress (Vogue 2000) were added to the pattern stash
So, that means that the total stash busted counts this year are
  • 21.8 metres of fabric
  • 2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
  • 6 metres of trim
  • 2.8 metres of interfacing
  • 3 sewing labels
  • 4 buttons
  • 2 metres of elastic
  • 8 spools of thread
  • 3.3 metres of basting tape
  • 5 invisible zippers
And the total additions this year to the stash:  
  • 10--20 mm buttons
  • 9 spools of thread
  • 6 patterns
  • 7.8 metres of trim

Happy Sewing!

Thursday 22 February 2024

Stash busting: Tessuti Apron / Free Downloadable Pattern

It is rare that I pull something from the stash and transform it into a project that I first envisioned for the fabric.  This is such the case.  


The fabric, originally thought of for a dress, turned out to be perfect for this apron project.  It is an 100% cotton canvas from the home décor department.  It was pre-treated with a spin in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

The pattern is a free download from Tessuti Patterns.  It is also available as a hard copy for purchase.  The instructions are well written and photographed.  The project is easy and well suited for a beginner.   





Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Label:  1 -- "You Can't Buy This" label from KATM


Time:  3 hours spent cutting fabric, sewing and pressing; 1 1/2 hours for printing and taping pattern, plus the time spent pre-treating fabric.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, clapper (used as pattern weight), a lot of paper and tape, printer and ink, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, Jean-a-ma-Jig™, threads, thread clippers, tailor's chalk and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Sunday 18 February 2024

Stash busting: OOP Simplicity 2372

I'm trying hard to use the fabric that I have in my stash.  I guess, I am on a fabric fast along with a #NoMorePolyester journey this year.  



Inflation and the over abundance of man-made fibers found in the aisles of the local fabric stores have taken the joy out of fabric shopping, even if it's only window shopping.  Current selection of natural fiber fabrics are losing their appeal as more are blended with man-made fibers or just don't feel right to the touch.  And to be honest I have some a lot of vintage yardages that I wouldn't never find in the current retail market.  That's how this dress came to be made out of a cotton sateen fabric.  


This was a vintage yardage.  I've been sitting on this fabric for years decades.  I was on the fence over this time as to what I would transform the yardage into.  And I will admit that I completely forgot about it until I started digging through the stash.  

The pattern is the tried and true and out-of-print Simplicity 2372.  I won't repeat myself on how comfortable this dress is, you've heard it all before.  It just feels good to stash bust this beautiful sateen fabric.  


Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  5 metres (made two dresses)

Interfacing:  0.3 metres

Zippers:  2 -- 55 cm recycled invisible zippers

Basting tape:  2.2 metres


Pattern
:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, ruler, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, tailor's wax, thimble and many breaks and cups of tea. 

Happy Sewing!   


Friday 16 February 2024

Stash busting: Oops! First Sewing Blooper of 2024 / Self-Drafted Foam Block Cover

 


It is not perfect, but I'm calling it good enough.  I was trying to sew a smaller version of this project.  There was some obvious miscalculations but I didn't catch the error until after it was sewn.  It's good enough since it is a block of foam for my physio.  It doesn't need to be perfect, just functionable.  It's good enough for now.  Maybe one day, I'll try again to achieve a better fit.  

The 100% cotton fabric was a left-over piece from this project.  It was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  


Project details

Foam:  1 block, 49 cm x 19 cm x 5 cm

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.4 metres

Basting tape:  1 metre

Zipper:  55 cm invisible zipper (cut to size)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, serrated knife, cutting board, household scissors, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, screwdriver and not enough coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Wool cardigan / OOP Kwik Sew 4192

Back in September, I made a simple pull-on  wool knit skirt with the intention of sewing a matching pullover top  to go with it.  The pullo...