Monday, 20 May 2013

Book Review

Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion
by Elizabeth L. Cline
ISBN:  978-1-59184-461-7
Published by Penguin Book 2012
Canadian price $27.50

I first heard about this book last year. It is not a book that has been discussed in the staff room with co-workers. I work deep in suburbia where shopping malls, Old Navy, Joe Fresh and Mark's Work Wearhouse rule the suburban fashion landscape. Rather, I discovered the existence of this book through other sewing blogs.

I won't say that I was captivated by Cline's writing style, rather the historical references and modern-day observations kept me turning the pages. Also the positive book reviews I've read in the past kept me plugging along to see what all the hype was about.

Cline is quite clever in writing this book. She avoids preaching to the reader about the pitfalls of cheap fast-fashion. Instead, she holds up a mirror at her own shopping habits and bad shopping decisions allowing the reader to recognize themselves in these activities. Cline takes the reader on a journey into the dark side of the fashion industry and tells her tale stylized as new journalism. Cline travels to far off lands fictionalized as the business owner of Fashion Forward Inc. looking to produce a line of garments she plucked out of her closet.  

Along the way, Cline also examines the by-gone days of department stores with "bigger fabric departments than ready-to-wear sections, and affordable patterns, some inspired by couturiers" (81). Cline not only examines the significant shifts in ready-to-wear fashions but also the shift in plastic-based fibres. "Fabrics have become compromised" in order to save costs. Cline argues that "about half of our wardrobe is now made out of plastic, in the form of polyester" (123). She examines the environmental impact of producing "Frankenfabrics" that take hundreds of years to biodegrade. She also points out that even natural fibres have an environmental impact that is hard to swallow.

The earlier mentions of home sewing peaked my interest in reading one of the final chapters, "Make, Alter, and Mend," only to be let down by this chapter. The chapter should have been named "Alter, Mend and Re-fashion" instead. Cline's foray into the world of sewing was minimal as she describes sewing lessons that produced a pillowcase and the desire to patch jeans and hem skirts. It was as if it were an after-thought to inject more of her own personal experiences into the book. I came away with the feeling that Cline was a supporter of vintage and thrift fashions rather than the make it from scratch DIY aesthetic.

It is a powerful read especially after the recent garment factory collapse that killed over 1,100 people in Bangladesh. This book came out before this horrific event but it echoes the tragedies that plagued garment workers in by-gone years. It is a book with important statistics and history that help to understand the working conditions in these oversea factories.

Will this book go down as a great read, no. I wouldn't put it up there with Fast Food Nation by investigative journalist Eric Schlosser. Someone was using a bit of creative licence when designing the book cover with the Katha Pollitt quote. But it is an interesting and insightful read into the dark side of fashion considering the recent debates surrounding fast and cheap fashions filling many closets today.

If you don't mind the grammar mistakes and typos this piece of fast-non-fiction might make it on your summer reading list.


Sunday, 19 May 2013

Unlined Coat

Spring is finally here. The apricot tree in the folks' yard is blooming with beautiful pink flowers, it is absolutely gorgeous. It is actually raining instead of snowing! And my thoughts are turning to sewing a new spring coat.

The pattern I have in mind is Burda Style 7304. It has been in my pattern stash for quite some time.

The fabric is a recent purchase. I found it in the home decor department of the local Fabricland store. It is a 100% polyester. I'm not a 100% sure how it is going to work out but I'm willing to give it a whirl because I love the print. It also have a raised texture.

I did manage to get all the pieces cut in the main fabric. Yesterday, I stopped by the fabric store to pick up some more interfacing and I came across the most perfect buttons.

I didn't get much sewing done yet as I'm still hurting with this back injury from a few weeks ago. I'm so over this, I just want to feel my old self and get back to sewing without all the mega breaks. But I have to look on the positive side. This slower pace will force me to slow down and take my time with the details of this coat.

Centre back
bound seam using binder foot
It is an unlined coat and the fabric does like to fray. My plan won't be to serge the edges, rather to use bound seams on the inside of the coat. I have purchased seam binding for this and so far I like the way it has turned out. It is not perfect. The latest June/July 2013 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine has an article "Tiny Seams Finishing Techniques for Delicate Garments" which includes instructions for the bound seam.

I cheated with the first bound seam finishing that I did on the centre back pieces. I used a binder foot. It turned out okay. It didn't seem to leave an impress that I was saving any time or made the task easier or created a perfectly straight finish.    

Sew, now I'm doing things the old fashion way. I've removed the bias tape foot and stitching it to the edge, turning it over and top-stitching it in place just like in the Vogue Patterns magazine article. I like the control that I feel I have doing it this way over using the bias tape foot. It might take more time, but that is okay with me. Besides, I think it looks better.  

Hmmm, I wonder how long it will take to finish this project?

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, 12 May 2013

In Sewing News Today...

There has not been any sewing this weekend. I have been fighting a cold. Come to think about it, since pulling muscles in my back a couple of weeks ago and now this cold there hasn't been much sewing this month. Boo.

I'm going to drop the Me-Made-May fête. Sorry, it has just been too much to keep up with the posts and managing to get pictures. Just know that I will continue to wear me-made items this month, like every month. I just won't have photographic proof to show and tell.

I did learn a few things during the first ten days of Me-Made-May. I need pants! I would be dancing with delight if I could just pull off a decent fitting pair of pants. When I get my energy back this will be one of the projects I would like to tackle. That and knickers. I could use a few more pairs of those also.

Oh and then there are those other sewing projects that I need to take care of before I think of making pants...

  • The vestment for the parish priest. I'm feeling guilty that I've had it for this long. I really must get this done this week. There is still quite a bit of seam ripping to finish first. And then I will have to trim down the blanket binding and make it into bias tape.   
  • I will also have to start and finish the other men's shirt that I promised my brother.  
  • Oh and finish cutting the remaining white linen and complete the rest of the purificators.  
Me-Made-May also highlighted the fact that there is so much to sew and so little time!  

What's on your sewing table?  

Happy Sewing!  

My Favourite Sewing Memories...

My favourite sewing memories, I owe to the greatest woman I know, Mama R.  

She came to this country as a young woman who didn't speak the language of her new home. She had a lot of struggles raising a young family of four and working a full-time job.

She did all of this while fitting into a new culture and learning a new language with very little free time and help. The Grey Nuns, a fixture in the Manitoba scene back-in-the-day, gave my Mom a second hand sewing machine that she still has today. 

She didn't have the time to sit me down on her lap as she mended and sewed our clothes. But she was an important role model and still is today. My favourite sewing memories are more recent ones. The times we spend together creating new projects and working on ideas. Although our tastes are different, I always appreciate her feedback and help.   

I love you Mama R, Happy Mother's Day!  

Happy Sewing!  


Saturday, 11 May 2013

It was an...

It was an itsy bitsy, teenie weenie, yellow polka dot baby onsie... 

Two, three, four, stick around I'll tell ya more.

Oh my gosh, I think I may be dating myself here. Papa R and his pals used to listen to that song (Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polkadot Bikini by Brian Hyland) on vinyl when I was a wee little one. But I digress...

Stash busting 2013:  Project # 21

Fabric Used:      1 metre of cotton knit fabric

Pattern Used:     McCall's 7367, an old stand-by, circa 1994.

Snaps Used:       1 snap

Ribbon Used:    1 metre of yellow ribbon. (Actually, I didn't stash-bust any ribbon. I picked up the yellow ribbon for this project).

I actually picked up this fabric last year for a tee-shirt that is still waiting to be sewn up. This baby onsie is what I managed to make with the left-over fabric. I did have enough yellow fabric for the band pieces but went with a black knit that had a bit more stretch.

So happy to have this one done. Hmmm, what's next? Stay tuned, I haven't decided yet.

Happy Sewing!



Friday, 10 May 2013

Day 10: Me-Made-May

Oh my goodness, this is a full blown head cold. I made some homemade chicken soup (spiked with cayenne pepper) when I got home from work and after I down another neo citron. (No pictures again today, sorry) Here's the low-down on the clothes I wore for



Skirt:                 Marcy Tilton design, Vogue 8637. Burnt orange double knit. I actually would like to make another one in black, it is such a comfortable skirt.     

Sweater:          RTW, taupe and orange zippered Rachel Roy sweater.  

Camisole:        RTW.

Jacket:             RTW, Navy blue windbreaker.  

Footwear:        Beige environmentally friendly Groundhogs.

Eyewear:         DKNY.  

Accessories:    Knee braces.
                             Silver watch.  

Undies:           Pantyhose, bra and knickers, all RTW.

Nightgown:     McCall's 8525 made in a cotton flannel.  

Bathrobe:        Simplicity 7417. Fabric: 100% cotton terry cloth.

Socks:              Smartwool.  



Thursday, 9 May 2013

Day 9: Me-Made-May

It was a rough day, I actually walked in the door and threw on my pj's even before thoughts of dinner popped in my head. My thoughts are on shaking this cough and headache rather than trying to snap a photo. Here's the low-down on the clothes I wore for


Skirt:                 Rachel Comey design, Vogue 1247. 100% cotton blue.      

Blouse:            Katherine Tilton design, Vogue 8748. Fabric: 100% cotton vintage sewing comic print.

Jacket:             RTW, Navy blue windbreaker.  

Footwear:        Red environmentally friendly Groundhogs.

Eyewear:         Orange framed glasses by Ohh la-la de Paris.  

Accessories:    Knee braces.
                             Silver watch.  

Undies:           Pantyhose, bra and knickers, all RTW.

Nightwear:     RTW stuff.  

Bathrobe:        Simplicity 7417. Fabric: 100% Cotton Terry cloth.


Happy Sewing!


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