New Coat: Butterick 6244

I'm a little late with trying out this pattern. Butterick 6244 was released in 2015, the following year it was voted "Best Pattern of 2016" over at Pattern Review. Oh, and there are over fifty reviews on the site for this little number.  

I have to agree this draped front coat is a pretty sweet pattern. It's almost a perfect pattern. It's missing pockets which was easily corrected by borrowing the side pocket pattern from another coat pattern  (out-of-print Vogue 8934).

The pattern suggests finishing all of the seams with a flat felled seam finish. Although I do like the look of a flat felled seam finish I went with using my serger to finish the seam edges. I did flat fell the center back of the collar since this section would show when worn.  

The serger was utilized for the rolled hemming feature instead of the 5/8" narrow hem suggested in the pattern instructions. I really like how it turned out. 

The fabric is a boiled wool that has been in the stash for many moons. It might look familiar. I used this fabric a few years ago for this project. I actually picked this fabric to test out the pattern and even though I want to revisit this coat pattern in another wool fabric I actually think I will wear this toile often. It makes me happy when this turns out this way.  

Project Details

Seams:  Straight stitch, 2.4 length

Seam Finish:  Interior seams are serged, back collar is finished with a flat felled seam and the hem is finished on the serger.  

Tips:  Experiment with different seam finish options before settling on the suggested finish in the pattern.  

Fabric:  2.4 metres

Interfacing:  0.2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape

Patterns:  Butterick 6244 and OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  cutting table, pins, pin cushions, measuring tape, scissors, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board, clapper, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, walking foot, screw driver and wee break or two.  

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Baby Yoda.  Who knew?  

This is one of the fabric prints snatched up by mask makers that recently sold out at a local fabric store. It was an interesting article, despite the error about when they mandated face masks in store.  Fabricland mandated face masks since they were able to re-open in early May, Marshalls only started on July 23, after our province saw a spike in Covid cases at communal living colonies. A fact that the journalist could have easily fact-checked via their Instagram account.   

But I digress... 

At Fabricland, an unofficial survey of those lined up to get their cotton picks cut, hockey themed prints were the face mask print of choice. Many waiting for the NHL licensed print bolt of fabrics to be passed down the line.  

There certainly has been a spike in mask making since the provincial government mandated face masks in schools twenty days before the return of students.  Before then it was only "recommended" for students in the higher grades to wear masks. In the same time frame many other businesses and public areas are starting to "mandate" the use of face masks and homeless and out-reach centres are calling for donations of the same.  

All of the sudden, in the last weeks of summer, sewing masks has replaced pandemic baking.  

I'm avoiding the fabric store line-ups like the plague. Once inside the stores, many are not social distancing. It is as if folks believe their home-made and store bought face masks provide them with some superpower or makes them invincible. While many still have not embraced this year's must-have fashion accessory.  

So I will be spending the final long weekend of the summer at my sewing table sewcial distancing away from the crowds getting ready for the return to in-class learning.  

I won't be sewing masks. Not this weekend.  

Instead, there is a chill in the air and this has me thinking about other sewing priorities.  

On that note, stay safe, enjoy the long weekend.

And Happy Sewing! 

August in Review...

As seen in the collage, my creativity is still on hiatus. I wish I could say that I spent my time doing something fun. I can not. What little time I did spend sewing was none-the-less enjoyable and practical. And I'm pleased that I can finally cross sewing jeans off the sewing bucket list. 

This month the following was stash-busted:   

• 4.8 metres fabric 
• 2.3 metres of interfacing
• 2 - 7" zippers
• 0.7 metres elastic
• 2 - metal jean buttons
• 1 metal hook and eye
• 1 new pattern 
• 1 free PDF pattern

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Now that I finally found an appropriate sized box, I need to pack these up, head to the post office and get these shipped.  It's another batch of scrub caps that I've been sitting on for way too long.  

This project kept my hands busy and provided a sense of helping out during the pandemic even though this has been in a very small way.  It has also been a great way to use up some fabric scraps. 

The solid yellow cotton and yellow floral silk/cotton print (shown at the bottom) were remnants from slip projects.  The blue and white Japanese cotton and pink lightweight linen scrub caps were made from new yardage.  The red polka dot cotton fabric was left over from little girl dresses.  The blue chambray scrub cap was made with left-over fabric from a Dad and little boy set of shirts.  The blue bird cotton print fabric was left over from a dress.  The blue bee printed cotton was a quilting cotton picked up with the thought of making microwave cozies.  They are going to some hard working nurses at a long-term care home who were working during the pandemic.  I hope these provide a sense of appreciation for all that they do for the people they're caring for during this challenging time.  

I'm going to move onto sewing face masks.  There has been a call from local homeless shelters for these and there is still small pieces of cotton fabrics that I can use for this project.  I'm going to try another pattern though. 

In other sewing news, my version of the Strassburg Sock works. It's not my fanciest sewing but it is one of my projects that I'm most proud of, go figure.  

This week I was shocked by a Alexander McQueen jacket with Melania's not so subtle attempt to highlight her husband's "law and order" rhetoric. There was something so very ominous about the outfit choice for a political speech.  

Her costume choice spoke volumes over her scripted speech. Not all communication is verbal as noted in Bethan Holt's piece "Battle-ready:  What's the Meaning Behind Melania Trump's Military Jacket." Considering that McQueen's earliest collections earned him a reputation for controversy and shock tactics perhaps the decision to go with a McQueen military jacket for this event shouldn't have surprised anyone. 

All this military costume dressing makes me want to sew a white pants suit. Or at least something more cheerful as the state of the world makes me shake my head at times.  

It might be time to break out Butterick 5898 and a lama print to create a wrap dress. I could really use something cheerful to wrap myself in just about now. Or it might be a t-shirt, pajamas?  I still have some time to decide as I get to work on more face masks.  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

When It's Not in the Budget: Night Splint

Sewing this summer certainly has focused, more than anything else, on pandemic sewing:  face masks, scrub caps, and repeat. All this medical-inspired sewing has prepared me for another challenge. 

This little contraption is called a night splint or The Strassburg Sock. It's used to help people with heel pain and even though there is no defiant scientific proof that it works I'm willing to try anything at this point.  I'm just not willing to spend $60 Cdn for one sock especially when I believe that I can make one.  

Why not?  The story of The Strassburg Sock started out this way.  

In 1993, using a tube sock, a piece of material, and my wife's sewing machine, late one night I devised a crude device to hold my foot in position while sleeping. The next morning I felt a significant reduction of pain as I took those first steps out of bed.

If it could work for the creator of The Strassburg Sock, I thought I might be able to save myself some cash. 

I think this might actually work. I'll be testing it out tonight.  

Happy Sewing!

 

Bootcut Jeans: Butterick 5682

These are my first pair of jeans post-toile.  And it really is a fluke that I've just sewn "this season's It jean."  Who knew bootcut jeans were back in style?  It's not the reason I've sewn this style.  I'm more about sewing comfortable clothing than sewing trends. And trust me no one wants to see me in skinny jeans. Oh wait, those aren't in style anymore. This couldn't have worked out more perfect.  

I did tweak the pattern on this version. I raised the crotch length about 3/8" and adjusted the shape of the front pocket for more depth. Oh, and the front fly is not as instructed, I didn't cut down the 7" zipper, rather I lengthened the front fly pattern pieces and kept the zipper it's length. The belt loops were left off because I never wear a belt.  

The 100% cotton denim has been in the stash for many moons. To be completely honest I can't remember when or where I picked this up. It's a heavier weight denim and these jeans will be perfect for doing yardwork. They're strong enough to handle the work. 

The fabric was pre-treated with three washes before hitting the ironing board for a good steam pressing. I don't usually pretreat fabric in this way but I wanted to be certain there won't be any shrinkage or fading once they hit the cutting table. For the final drying process I hung the fabric outside to dry.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 length

Seam Finish:  serged and top-stitched with jean thread

Tips:  If you can find a Jean-a-ma-jig, it's worth having around for getting over the extra thickness of fabric while top-stitching.  

Fabric:  2.10 metres denim

Lining:  0.20 metres

Interfacing:  1.10 metres fusible

Closures:  7" metal jean zipper and 2 metal "no sew" jean button (ruined the first button)

Pattern:  Butterick 5682

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, clear ruler, seam ripper, sewing machines (Janome for most of the construction and the vintage brother sewing machine for the buttonhole), zipper foot, clear presser foot (for topstitching), basting tape, hand sewing needle, thimble, clapper, iron, ironing board, thread clippers, pin cushions, cutting board, hammer, screwdriver, the jean-a-ma-jig and a wee break for some birthday cake.  

Happy Sewing!

 

Back to School Face Masks

These polka-dot cotton face masks are to be gifted as part of require back-to-school gear. Not much to say except, of course, I revisisted the Dhurata Davies face mask pattern. This pattern has become my go-to pattern for sewing face masks. It's a bit more effort than the Craft Passion face mask but the fit makes it worth the extra effort.  

The outer fabric is a quilting 100% cotton recently picked up for this project.  Two masks are lined with white 100% cotton pique fabric left over from this project. The third mask is lined with 100% cotton fabric, left over from this project. All fabrics were previously pre-treated.  

The Stats

Fabric:  0.40 metres (for 3 face masks)

Elastic:  0.7 metres

Pattern:  Free Dhurata Davies 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, serger and tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!