Saturday, 13 August 2022

Change of Plans: OOP Vogue 9091

Quite awhile ago, the black denim was laid out on the cutting table ready to be cut and sewn into a denim jacket when I realized that there was enough fabric to sew a pair of culottes.  And that is when plans changed.  Seven years ago I made culottes using out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9091.  I liked them and have been meaning to revisit this pattern.  Yes, that's in the past tense.  I no longer have the original pair due to fabric pilling.  Discovering that there was enough black denim to revisit the pattern, it seemed like a change in plans would be a good idea.  It will be something that I can wear now and when the season changes and the winter boots come out.  

I cut this project out weeks ago and it sat there waiting to be sewn.  Procraftination, plain and simple.  Finally, they are done.  


The fabric is a 100% cotton denim that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many, many moons ago.  I picked it up with plans to sew a pair of black denim boot leg jeans prior to the pandemic and before there were thoughts of a black denim jacket.  That was also before I started cutting into the yardage to sew facemasks at the start of the pandemic and before face masks were readily available for the general public.  And then there was no longer enough yardage for the boot legged jeans.  The fabric sat there waiting for another project to appear.  It was, long ago, pretreated and ready to cut until the idea of sewing OOP Vogue 9091.  


It proved to be the wrong fabric choice.  The pattern fabric suggestions include a light-weight denim and this is not light-weight.  Maybe I should have made a denim jacket after all?  But I digress. It was back to the sewing machine to close the pleats.  


With the pleats tamed and stitched down, I feel that I can wear this out in the public sphere.  

The pattern, OOP Vogue 9091, what's not to love?   This pattern is well-drafted.  Please don't let my poor fabric choice deter you from trying out this pattern if it's on your wish list to make.  


I did make a few changes.  The pockets were cut but in the end I decided to leave them off.  An inch was added to the side seams for some extra ease after comparing my body measurements with the pattern.  It ended up being too much and I took it in a half presser foot width and then take in some more from the waistband tapering off towards the first notch.  The culottes were hemmed with an inch and a half hem.  


Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.8 metres

Lining:  0.2 metres cut, but not used.

Basting tape:  0.2 metres

Zipper:  8" invisible 

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9091

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, scissors, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, Jeans sewing machine needle 100/16, regular zipper foot, invisible zipper foot, walking foot, regular presser foot, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and a hand sewing needle.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

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