June in Review...

As things start to re-open in this part of the country, there is certainly a shift in how I view things that I took for granted pre-pandemic.  I count my blessings that I have the equipment, supplies and skills needed to create my own wardrobe and mend clothes.  Shopping for clothes is the last thing I could imagine wanting to do at this time.  I get the sense that it is something felt by others as there has been a noticeable increase of people asking me to sew for them. 

The thought of sewing for others at this time makes me feel very uncomfortable. The idea of standing close to someone during a fitting is not in my comfort zone at all.  But yet, I am working on a bridal project that I never imagined that I would be partaking in during a pandemic.  Strange times.   

Sadly, the project has very large pattern pieces that won't fit on my cutting table. And this ol' aching body is not ready to head back to the chiropractor and lay face down on a table for 20 to 30 minutes. I'm going to have to figure out a safe way to lay out the fabric and get it cut without kneeling on the floor and twisting my body. My back and knees are not looking forward to the cutting stage of this project. I spent a couple of days this weekend with pain meds and laying in bed after altering the pattern pieces and marking the test fabric. It was not a fun weekend. There has to be a solution I haven't figured out yet. Suggestions are most welcome.   

Sewing wise, I continued to sew small items that fit on my cutting table from fabrics found in my stash.  Although, I did add to the stash this month, 6 metres of a test fabric for the bridal cape and it's not enough. I'll have to head back to the store for more. ~sigh~  Shopping for fabric at this time is also not in my comfort zone.  I think this is the first time I can say that sewing and fabric shopping are not relaxing activities.  

This month I managed to cut 20 scrub caps (seven of the twenty are sewn), made 2 face masks, 1 top, 1 coat, 2 slips, 2 baby onesies, 1 eye glass case and 1 pair of pants.  

• 28.9 metres
• 1 metre of interfacing
• 1.9metres of elastic
• 3.8 metres of bias tape
• 2 metres of twill tape
• 1 new, previously-owned pattern
• 4 previously used patterns 
• 2 free PDF patterns
• 3 snaps
• 3 buttons
• 2 labels

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Coat: OOP Burda Style 7028

It's hot outside and the mosquitos are out. And as news outlets are talking about the pandemic's second wave, the executive director of the World Health Organization (WHO) warns that globally "we're right in the middle of the first wave." All good reasons, I think, to stay indoors and finish off a coat.  

Actually, I didn't think that I would finish this coat, it was meant to be a toile to test out the fit. As the outer shell came together, I decided to go ahead and cut out the lining pieces. What I need is a short winter coat and even though this one won't work at keeping me warm during a deep freeze it will work in those early autumn months before the snow settles on the ground.  The plan was to try out this pattern before committing my last piece of wool coating fabric to the project.  

It's out-of-print OOP Burda 7028 and I picked up this pattern because it was advertised as a Miss Petite sized pattern drafted for a five foot, three inch body. Close enough I thought. If I revisit this pattern for the shorter length coat that I want to have for the winter, I will shorten it at the seam for the mid-section of the coat, raising the pockets to a more comfortable height. This will also shorten the back hem to just above the knee on my five foot and a bit height.  

The pattern is fine. I like the cocoon shape of the coat that reminds me of something out of the 1920s.  I'm not a fan of the dropped shoulder but I can live with it. As it is, this wearable toile is something that will be easy to throw on for running errands. 

My outer fabric dictated the closure choice. Buttons were not an option because the uneven texture of this embroidered corduroy fabric would make buttonholes difficult to navigate. Throughout the sewing process, the sewing machine needle often became "stuck" in the thickness of the embroidery and pulled out of the shaft. So snaps seemed like the most logical decision. Luckily these were in the notions stash, for decades, as the card holder indicated that it was purchased at Courage My Love. I haven't been there in many, many moons.  

The heavily embroidered narrow-wade corduroy is also from the previous century. This fabric made it into my stash when there was still a Fanny Fabrics in the city. The cotton back kasha lining fabric is from this century. 

Project Details

Seams:  Straight stitch 2.8 length

Seam Finish:  Most interior edges were serged.  Finish on the sleeve hems were finished with a zig-zag stitch.  

Tips:  A clapper comes in handy for achieving a nice crisp press at the edges.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Lining:  2 metres (I had to cut several pattern pieces on the cross grain to make this quantity work)

Snaps:  3 - 1" 

Pattern:  OOP Burda Style 7028

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, hand sewing needle, thimble, and many breaks.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Seam Finishing Without a Serger

My decades old serger has not been sewing a decent seam finish lately.  It's time to take it in for servicing or ~gasp~ think about replacing it.  Both of these options won't be happening anytime soon with how expensive life has become since the arrive of the pandemic and I'm about to be laid off from work. Needless to say, I'm really watching my pennies nickels.  

Self-threading serger, {source}

Unless, I win the big prize of a lottery or save up enough nickels.  Yup, a nice dream, but I digress... Until that dream comes true, I'll be returning to the BS life (before serger).  

Thankfully, my sewing machine comes equipped with decorative and zig-zag stitches that I can adapt into seam finishing options.  These will work on the current project that I need to finish, I think I will go with the first stitch on the left for this embroidered corduroy fabric.  

Other types of fabric will require other seam finishing techniques. Sheer, light-weight fabrics will be best handled with a French seam finish.  Fabrics prone to fraying can be treated with bound seams. Thank goodness there's a bias tape maker in the sewing basket to make bias tape. 

There is a welcomed sense of slowing down the process and thinking about how to finish a seam without the speed of a serger. Maybe, returning to the basics is just what might kick-start the sewing mojo?  

Do you have a favourite non-serger seam finish that you like to use?  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

The pandemic continues to have a presence in my sewing. There's still face mask sewing. 

This one came about from scraps after I cut out some scrub caps out of this Japanese cotton fabric.  

And there has been countless sewing bloopers. I'm just pushing myself to get things done lately. It leads to more than expected time with the seam ripper.  

I did take a break from pandemic related sewing projects to work on a new coat pattern and wearable toile. But even garment sewing has been a challenge that requires seam ripping work.  

Talking about testing new patterns, I stopped by the fabric store yesterday to pick up some muslin to test out another. When did muslin get so expensive? Seventeen dollars and ninety-nine cents a metre plus taxes at five metres would cost too much for a test garment. The last time I made a trip to Northwest / Marshall Fabrics for muslin I paid no more than three dollars a metre. If I knew the price increase was that much I wouldn't have made the trip and lined up to get into the store during a pandemic.  

And there still seems to be a shortage of elastic. This sign was found in the elastic section of a local Fabricland store. Narrow width elastic still seems to be a challenge to find. Even Northwest / Marshall Fabrics has the notions section blocked off and you have to give your request to a sales person who will find and retrieve it for you if it's in stock.  

The pandemic certainly has changed sewing and the feelings associated with the hobby. Being in a fabric store yesterday was certainly stressful as people were not socially distancing and following rules. My head and heart is just not into this hobby right now. With the price increases and difficulty finding certain supplies, I'm finding it hard to get excited about future projects at this time.  

I'll keep sewing and clear off the projects that I have committed to finishing. But I rather just curl up and read a book than spend time at the sewing machine.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

Replacement Top: OOP Butterick 5891

Many moons ago I had a favourite top that I wore mostly in the summer months. Until I put it on with damp and recently dyed hair that stained it. That stuff doesn't come off of fabric. It was made with Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891 and a wonderful black and white cotton fabric. I don't have the exact fabric print in my stash or left-over remnant but I did find two cuts that were quite similar. And since I've decided to let my hair do its natural thing (hello gorgeous gray highlights!) I figure it was safe to recreate a similar top.  

I had to blend the two cuts of fabric to create another top.  The front, sleeves and collar were cut in this flowers and swirls print.  

The back and pockets were cut in a floral and dots print. The fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the wash followed by the dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

I typically shorten the sleeve length on commercial sewing patterns but not with this one.  The sleeves were sewn with a two inch hem. The pockets were raised an inch. I omitted the interior button and loop.  No other alterations or changes to the pattern were made.  

The perfect buttons were found in the stash. It's nice to have a similar version top back in the wardrobe.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch length

Seam Finish:  Serged interior, top-stitched narrow hems.  

Tips:  If you dye your hair, dry it before getting dressed.  

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Buttons:  3 - 18 mm

Label:  1 "me made" by Kylie and the Machine

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, thread clippers, threads, serger, tweezers, new serger sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

  

And Another: OOP Simplicity 8666

And there was a request for another bias cut slip just like the other one made earlier this month.  

This is out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8666 in a light-weight cotton that has been in the stash, again, for many moons.  

Same changes, as the previous version:  

1. The sides were extended, 1 5/8" from the upper portion grading outward to 2" towards the hemline.  
2. The length was shortened by two and a half inches.  
3. The front was lowered by 1" at the centre front grading to the original shaping outwards.  
4. The straps are ten inches in length.  

Project Details

Seams:  Sewn with the straight stitch at a 2.6 length.  

Seam Finish:  The sides have French seams. The neckline and armholes have a bias tape finish. The hem is finished with a 3/8" narrow hem.  

Tips:  Be willing to spend more time at the ironing board with pressing as you sew.  It will make your life at the sewing machine easier.  

Fabric:  2 metres

Bias Tape:  1.8 metres double fold

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8666

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, measuring gauge, pins, wrist pin cushion, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, safety pin, iron, ironing board, tea and some cool tunes.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

Baby Onsie: Vintage McCall's 7367

Vintage (circa 1994) out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 has seen a lot of action on the cutting table over the years. It has also been years since I stitched up a version of this pattern.

Instead, I sewed two, both to be gifted. It's a sweet pattern and it has been a go-to baby shower and charity gift item over the years. But now I remember why I haven't been stitching more of these over the recent years. It's all about my sewing machine, there's nothing wrong with the pattern. The sleeve and leg cuffs are a very snug fit around the arm of my sewing machine.

 

Throw in that my wrists are not as cooperative as they used to be in my younger days, this has turned out to be a struggle to get it in position to sew the cuffs. Before I could finish this project, I had to unpack my older back-up sewing machine and dust it off to sew the cuffs for the simple reason is that the arm is smaller than on my newer machine.   

I'm so glad I still have the older machine for projects like this one. But I will tell you, I'm ready to pack up this vintage pattern for good. I think it's time that I retire this pattern, for the sake of my wrists.  

The fabric is a light-weight terry and the cuffs (plus the facing on one) is a cotton knit. These fabrics were found in the stash where they were hanging out for many moons. Pre-shrunk with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before it hit the cutting table.  

Project Details  

Seams:  These were sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance and the lightning bolt (knit stitch) 1.0 zig-zag, 2.5 length.  

Seam Finish:  Serged

Tips:  Use a walking foot for sewing knits.  

Fabric:  2 metres (for the two)

Snaps:  2

Interfacing:  1 metre fusible

Twill Tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 7367

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions (wrist and table), tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machines, serger, threads, tweezers, screwdriver, serger needle and cup of tea.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

Cork Eyeglass Case: Sew Sweetness

There was some small pieces of cork scraps hanging around from the cork handbags I made last year. Enough yardage to make an eyeglass case for my sunglasses.  

I used the Sew Sweetness Cork Eyeglass Case pattern.  I did make a small change, cutting two of each pattern piece instead of the one layer called for in the video. This one is now lined with cork fabric.   

I used a snap for the closure and stitched it with denim thread.  It was a quick and easy project.  

The Stats

Fabric:  36 cm x 25 cm piece

Snap:  1 pearl snap

Pattern:  Sew Sweetness Cork Eyeglass Case (free PDF pattern)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, Clover Iron-on Transfer Pencil, scissors, basting tape, sewing machine, denim sewing machine needle, thread, walking foot, zipper foot (for sewing the edge near the snap), Klikit (for attaching the snap) and hammer.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

Linen Pants: Vogue 1642

There's a need for a new pair of pants to accommodate the pandemic pounds that have been creeping on these past few months. But I digress...

Vogue 1642 is the perfect option for a comfortable pull-on pants. These are the forth pair of pants I have made with this pattern. I really like the flat darted front with the back elasticized waist. Favourite part of these pants are the wide legs and side in-seam pockets. Oh and the fact that they sit at the waist are what make them so comfy. 

There were some small changes / alterations made to the pattern. Of course, I had to shorten hem. I shortened the hem by four inches, shortened the left pant leg another 5/8" before sewing a one inch hem. The pants were cut half way between a large and X-large from the side seam. The front darts were sewn at the large dart markings.  

The fabric is a 100% linen that has been in the stash for many moons. I picked this piece of fabric up when it hit the sale section of the fabric store. I'll admit that with the price of linen now-a-days there was some fear to cut into this fabric. There was a sign of relief that it turned out. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing. The pants will be hand washed going forward.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.15 metres (147 cm wide)

Elastic:  1.2 metres (1.3 cm wide)

Pattern:  Vogue 1642

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, scissors, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, serger, tweezers, threads (cotton for the sewing machine, polyester for the serger), safety pins, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, and a sleeve ham.    

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!  

Slip: OOP Simplicity 8666

Another light-weight cotton slip ready to be gifted. 

Easy peasy project:  a simple bias cut cotton slip using out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8666. There were a few modifications to the pattern to achieve the fit needed. The sides were extended 1 5/8" from the top grading out and additional inch at the hemline. The front was lowered an inch and a half. The sides are finished with French seams. The neckline and armhole are finished with bias tape found in the stash. The hemline is shortened two and a half inches and finished with a narrow top-stitched hem.  

The fabric has been in the stash for a long time, actually picked up for lining fabric. Plans change. It was pre-treated in the wash, followed by a tumble in the dryer before ending up on the ironing board for a pressing.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres

Bias Tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8666

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, thread, new sewing machine needle, screwdriver and tweezers.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Esther Perel on Peace {source}

My heart breaks for the world. Tears fill my eyes and flood my heart when I watch the news. This past week has been a horrible week. If it's not the callous comments that Alberta's premier says about Covid-19 and the elderly to what is happening south of the border, what's been going on for far too long. 

This past week there was a Sewcialist post about some of the disturbing and very troubling events that occurred in the United States where comments questioned why it would appear on a sewing page. There were comments that demonstrated an unwillingness to listen and learn from other's view points and personal experiences. These stories are part of our everyday lives if we want to admit it or not and I strongly believe that they do belong on a sewing page.  

British fashion designer Betty Jackson responded to a 2016 interview question on what inspires her as a designer.  

"Fashion designers respond to social, economic change, it's a reflection of what's happening, really, in the world."

Thank God technology allows for stories to be retold by citizen journalists from the lies and misrepresentation presented by the American president and his administration. It is not just a U.S. story, there are many places in the world where examples of how words can give permission to horrific actions. I watch the news and my thoughts turn to the pages of Left to Tell, Immaculee Ilibagiza's memoir while seeing parallels to this modern day tragedy. 

Positive change will come if only we can listen with empathy, kindness and an open heart. I know I don't share the same experience of fear as Immaculee and other minorities who have been targeted and judged simply by their appearance and the words that have made them a target of unjustified judgement, treatment and murder. My heart aches for the world and I long to understand and educate myself so that I'm brave enough to stand and protect others from these injustices in the world and to understand the powerful structures that have created the privileges I experience living in a first world county as a person who is not overtly judged by the colour of my skin.  

We all have the opportunity to finish writing the next chapter of this story that plays out in our own neighbourhoods every day by actively listening with empathy, kindness and open heart so real change can occur in ourselves. God willing. And if it starts in a sewing page on Instagram, so be it. I think the Sewcialists Instagram page and the sewists who share their lived experiences should be applauded for having the courage to open up dialogue and share resources. Listening and reading stories are part of, hopefully, understanding. Of course, it has a place on a sewing blog or page. It is part of our daily lives, just as sewing. Just like a garment can not be complete without all the pieces, so is a story. It is not coherent if all the pieces are not put together with care.  

Needless to say, my sewing mojo has taken a hit. It's hard to find joy in sewing right now. The sewing I'm doing right now is to take my mind off things when the images and words on the news on the radio are too much. I'm sewing for others right now. I have more scrub caps for nurses at a care home to send off and other little projects on the go. I feel a need to sew for others and to feel like I'm helping someone in some way.

But it doesn't mean that I'm capable to take on anything thrown my way, with the diminished sewing mojo, there are limits to what I'm able to take on. Someone I care about asked me to do an alteration project this weekend. Something made out of velvet. I said that I'm not the best person to tackle this request, velvet is challenging to work with and alterations is not my sewing super power. My words fell to the side lines. ~sigh~ Why is it so hard for people to listen?  

This weekend, I made a soccer ball print face mask, it's my missing the 2020 Euro Cup games face mask. They're postponed until 2021. For the face mask, I used the Dhurata Davies pattern, quilting cotton for the outer and lining fabric and interlined with a cotton knit. 

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe, Be Kind and Happy Sewing!