Thursday 14 May 2020

Shirtdress: Vintage Vogue 1606

The one thing that I like about sewing with patterns from the last century is that they fit in the shoulders. I'm really over this century's dropped shoulder trend. This little fact made this project the most pleasing sewing experience I've had in a very long time.  


The upper portion of the sleeve and how it fits into this design is my favourite feature of this vintage Vogue pattern. Vogue 1606 is a Betty Jackson design circa 1995. 


The lower portion of the sleeve was changed to the placket, pleating cuff details from Vogue 1503. I shortened the sleeve length of the Betty Jackson pattern but I could certainly have shortened it even more. A note for next time. Additional changes: adding side pocket and more buttons. I do believe that is my favourite thing about sewing, I have complete control of the quantity of buttons or whatever closure I want a project to have. You won't find a ready-to-wear clothing manufacturer now-a-days willing to sew fourteen buttons on a shirtdress. I found these lovely buttons at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics for next to a song. They don't often carry buttons.  

There was some concern that it might be short by the look of the pattern photograph. And forgetting that I'm no where as tall as a Vogue fashion model, I added four inches to the hem. I questioned my decision upon the first fitting. In the end, I left the extra length finishing the hemline at one inch and some hand stitching.  

The fabric was in the stash and it actually wasn't my first choice. I had a heavier weight cotton in mind for this wearable toile. The initial fabric choice was short on yardage for the changes that I had in mind. I could see this being quite lovely in a light-weight linen or cotton shirting fabric. Something light weight so that it drapes nicely. 


This cotton shirt weight fabric did present a challenge as the right and wrong side of the fabric was hard to detect and even though I chalked an X on the wrong side, I still managed to make an error ending up with two right side front pieces.  Lesson:  never sew when you're tired.  


After sleeping on it and carefully removing the machine and hand invisible stitching, I went to work correcting this error.  


There are many pieces to put together and even though the pattern is rated "easy" it is one that is best worked through slowly to truly enjoy the process and appreciate the ingenuity of the design. 


The Stats

Fabric:  3 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres

Buttons:  14 - 12 mm, 2 hole shirt buttons

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1606

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, scissors, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, cutting board, button hole cutter, hammer, thread clippers, tweezers, serger, threads, seam ripper and many breaks along the way. Oh, and there may or may not have been a few tears thrown into the production.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

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