Year in Review...

Twenty-twenty-two flew by and even though at times I felt like I wasn't sewing that much, I'm kinda shocked that a hundred sixteen projects came off the machine this year.  Mind you many of those were small projects like various bags and hats and scarves.  

• Fifty-one (44%) of these projects were donated or gifted.  
• Eight projects (6%) didn't work out as planned.  
• 117.1 metres of fabric were stash busted in 2022
• 17 reusable grocery bags were sewn in anticipation of the single use plastic bag ban that came into effect this year.  These bags was the most popular sewing project of 2022 and many were gifted after some people saw and liked them.  

Well, here's a closer look back at the time at the sewing machine this past year including December's projects.  

Have a Happy New Year!  And wishing you a productive and creative 2023 in the sewing workspace.  

January

Reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), Men's shirt (McCall's 2447), Remote control caddy (no pattern used), 3-layer cotton face masks (Dhurata Davies), Waterfall Coat (Butterick 6244)

January's sewing projects were all about finding a distraction and trying to get promised projects done.  All projects, except for the reusable grocery bags, were gifted.  

February

Diane Von Furstenberg Designer Wrap Dress (OOP Vogue 1610), Robe (OOP Simplicity 6851), Pajama Bottoms (OOP Vogue 9217) and Men's Pants (OOP Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973)

During the month of February there was some gift sewing and a couple of projects for moi.  I was blessed to sew an authentic DVF wrap dress pattern, circa 1977.  I can cross that one off my sewing bucket list.  And on the third version of the robe, I finally got the button placement right.  It was a good month for sewing and mending.  

March

Unfinished jean jacket (OOP Butterick 6373), wool and cotton knit socks (The Wolf and The Tree, Going Rogue Socks), DVF wrap dress in black sweater knit  and cotton knit (OOP Vogue 1610), cotton knit top (OOP Simplicity 2372), table runner (no pattern used), reusable grocery bag (OOP McCall's 4851)

March was a mix of charity, gift, selfish sewing and one Lent sewing project for the church.  The highlight of the sewing this month would have to be socks, so many socks!  I made a batch of wool socks for moi and a batch to be gifted.  Oh and a version of the DVF wrap dress that I saved for Easter Sunday mass not anticipating a snow storm that would happen and would nix those plans.  

April 

Cotton print top (OOP Butterick 5891), reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851) and French terry cardigan / jacket (Butterick 6495)

I wonder if April blizzard warnings will also bring May flowers?  Maybe it was all the unpredictable weather that zapped my sewing mojo this month?  

May

Wool sweater (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), 2 cotton slips (OOP Kwik Sew 3645), Men's denim pull-on pants with front facing leg pockets (OOP Kwik Sew 3663), Pear print dress (Tessuti patterns Eva dress), shirt (McCall's 7940), dress (OOP Simplicity 2372)

Thankfully, there were no more blizzard warnings this month.  Instead, it was replaced with lots of rain!  That meant staying indoors and sewing, most of the projects sewn this month were gifted to others.  

June

Yellow and gray reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), flannel pajama set (Butterick 6296 and Vogue 9217), bag (no pattern used)

Summer officially arrived and most of my free time is dedicated to yardwork and avoiding mosquito bites.  There was some gardening and planting of squashes, tomatoes, herbs and sunflowers that took me away from sewing.  And my simple life is reflected in my sewing projects, no fancy sewing found here.  

July

DVF Wrap dress (OOP and vintage Vogue 1610), Donna Karan shorts (OOP and vintage Vogue 2092), failed attempt at recreating RTW culottes (OOP McCall's 6748)

During the month of July, I was able to squeeze in a little bit of sewing in between yardwork and gardening.  The pants and the shorts were made with thoughts of cycling more than materialized.  Maybe next month?  

August

Scarf (no pattern used), cell phone cover (no pattern used), reuseable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), black and white jacket (OOP Vogue 8430), floral gathered empire waist girl's dress (OOP New Look 6493), girl's reversible dress (OOP Vogue 1455), failed attempt at culottes (OOP Vogue 9091), failed attempt at recreating a RTW t-shirt (OOP Vogue 8582) 

Mid-August my sewing move into high gear with the start of Pattern Reviews stash-busting contest.  All of these fabrics have been in the stash for years, some even decades.  Four items were gifted, two for moi didn't work out to be wearable.  

September

Waterfall coat (Butterick 6244), failed attempt at culottes (Vogue 9246), flannel pajamas (OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851 and OOP Simplicity 2372)

September was not the most successful sewing month.  The pants were way too big, the waterfall coat was not warm enough, the gifted pajama set was stressful with indecisiveness and complaints along the way.  Yup, sometimes sewing for others can be stressful.  

 

October 

Flannel pajama set (Butterick  6296, Simplicity 2372 and Vogue 9217), plaid pull-on and elastic back pants (OOP Butterick 6717), plaid scarf (no pattern used), finally, a successful pair of culottes (Vogue 9246), bag (OOP McCall's 4851), pull-on and elastic back pants (OOP Butterick 6717)

October was a mixed bag of sorts.  There were sewing bloopers and success stories.  Half of the sewing projects were gifted.  

November

Wool scarves (no pattern used), hats / tuques (The Littlest Studio, free PDF tuque pattern), wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), cotton knit top (OOP Simplicity 2372), polyester knit sweater (OOP Simplicity 8529), half-slip (OOP Butterick 5790), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and wool pants (OOP Butterick 6717)

Most of November's sewing projects were about filling needs.  All the hats, except for one, were sewn for the church which put out a call for hats and scarves for newcomer families.  The other hat was gifted as was the short-sleeve t-shirt.  The cardigan is a replacement for the one I made in the spring but recently gave away to someone in need.  

December

Second attempt at recreating a RTW T-shirt (OOP Vogue 9057 / reissued as Vogue 1733), knit front knotted top, (OOP Vogue 2925), a little girl's velveteen and silk Christmas dress (OOP McCall's 5795 / available as a digital download) and a black knit maxi-skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) 

I would have probably sewn more if sewing time was not interrupted by a Colorado low that brought several days of snow that needed to be cleared right before Christmas!  

Happy Sewing! 

Stash busting: Maxi-length Knit Skirt / OOP Butterick 5790

I made a close-fitting ankle length skirt with an elastic waist and out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5790.  It couldn't be a simpler project with just one pattern piece, I was able to whip this one up in an afternoon. 

  

Based on the latest version, there were a few changes.  I shortened it just below the waist at the markings for the petite sizing.  The bottom hem was shortened another three inches.  And even with these two adjustments, it's still an ankle length skirt.  It was cut as a straight size 16 without any extra ease.  The fabric is a cotton knit that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics many moons ago.  

Project Details

Seams:  Sewing machine knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metre

Elastic:  1 metre

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Butterick  5790

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, safety pins and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Mending and Fixing in 2022

Mending continues to be a big trend in 2022, even the local sewing hub is offering mending workshops.  That is so amazingly great to see!  Yes, even though I once upon a time said I prefer to sew something from scratch rather than mend or alter, or something along those lines, I did actually sit down and do some mending and fixing during the year.  And I didn't hate it.  

There were wool socks that were saved in October.  

Expensive wool socks that I didn't want nor need to replace with the help of a little mending.  I actually enjoyed the quiet time spent extending the life of these toasty toe warmers.  

There was some patchwork on a patchworked blanket done in September.  

This handbag was repaired with a new strap in May.  

And various clothing pieces made it to the mending and repair pile for some simple hole repair or re-attaching buttons.  And then there was a turtleneck dress that was fitting a little too snug that I sourced the fabric to be made into some hats for a charity project.  I have a pile of wool pants that no longer fit that are waiting to be turned into another project.  I'm just trying to think of what they will become...

Happy Sewing!  

And Happy Mending!  

The Sewing Oops & Blooper List of 2022

1.  Pullover sweater.  

This project made it to the sewing mistake list because of the fabric, it's a polyester.  The pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8529, is a keeper.  The polyester was a failure on so many levels.  It didn't hold up during the first wash and came out with more drape.  And it's only a couple of months old and has been worn a few times so why is it already starting to pill?  Oh yeah, it's a polyester.  That's what polyester does.   This sewing blooper was made in November.  

2.  The slip.  

This project would be perfect if I worked with the stretch!  What was I thinking?  I should have cut this on the cross grain.  This sewing blooper happened in November. 

3.  The Collarless Pajama Top

Yes, I actually forgot to sew the collar.  It really wasn't an intended design feature.  This sewing blooper appeared in October.  

4.  Way-too-big Pants

It took two tries to get the size right on Vogue 9246.  This gigantic sewing blooper happened in September.  

5.  The Tweed Coat

Funny how I love this pattern made up in the boiled wool fabric.  But this cotton tweed was just too lightweight and frumpy for a coat.  I haven't worn it out once since making it in September.  

6.  The Yellow Top

My first attempt at recreating a favourite RTW t-shirt was way too tight and never made it into the wearable pile.  I made this in September.  

7.  Pull-on pants.  

This was another attempt at copying a RTW item.  It was a fail because of the fabric.  Even though I did try to wear this a couple of times, it just didn't feel comfortable at all.  This sewing project happened in July.  

8.  The Jean Jacket

I never finished this project but that didn't stop me from wearing it out in public for a short time until a secondhand jacket replaced it.  There were so many sewing bloopers with this one, even the sleeves that were shortened ended up being too long.  I tried to make this denim jacket in March.  

9.  Denim Pants.  

This project makes it to the mistake list because of the poor fabric choice that I made.  The black denim was too stiff for this project.  This sewing blooper occurred in August.  

10.  The Llama print DVF Wrap Dress

This version of the DVF wrap dress, vintage Vogue 1610, and I have not parted ways.  It is still part of my me-made wardrobe and I do like it.  But oh my, the sewing bloopers did not escape this project!  And I should have know better because this was not the first go at this pattern.  In the end, I had to abandon the side pockets, one of the design features that I adore.  Sewing bloopers plagued this project back in July.  

Happy Sewing!  

And Happy Boxing Day!

Sewing With the Spirit of Christmas

Pope Francis in his Christmas Eve message urged "people to 'abandon the warmth of worldliness' and 'rediscover the meaning of Christmas' in the face of 'consumerism', advocating for a Church that serves the poor."  

In 2022, I did not do a lot of sewing to serve others as I had during the pandemic lockdown years.  Sure there was some charity and gift sewing done this year.  It just didn't seem like it was as intentional and focused as before.  

In the beginning of the year, I made more face masks that were gifted.  As harassments increased towards those who continued to wear face masks the number of face mask requests fell.  As did mask mandates put in place by provincial and federal governments.  

It wasn't until later in the year that I picked up another charity project, called upon by my church community.  It was a call for knitters to make hats, mitts and scarves.  God did not bless me with the talent and skill to knit these items but I was able to sew some hats that were gifted.  

Coming up in 2023, I would like to be more mindful in my sewing projects for others and keep sewing with the spirit of Christmas throughout the year.  

Source:  BackpacksUSA

I'm thinking that maybe I will start with sewing some women's underwear.  I have a trusted panties pattern, Simplicity 8229, and all the sizes are still in the pattern.  First, I should check the stash for the supplies.  

Happy Sewing!  And Merry Christmas!

Favourite Makes of 2022

It's hard to believe that the end of the year is fast approaching.  Well, since this is the last day of Advent and Christmas will soon be here I thought I would start recapping some of my favourite makes, sewing bloopers, reflections and goals.  Let's start with the projects that made me smile along the way.  Here is my top ten favorite sewing projects for 2022, in no particular order.  If was tough to narrow it down but I think this sums it up.  

1.  Cotton tweed pants.  

These pull-on pants, Vogue 9246, made it to the favourite list because of how comfortable and easy they are to wear.  I'm at that stage in life that I'm asking myself, do I really want zippers on my pants?  The answer is no.  (These pants were first made in September, followed by a retry on the sizing in October.) 

2.  Wool cardigan sweater.  

This cardigan sweater made it to the favourite list for so many reasons.  First, OOP Kwik Sew 4192 is a great pattern and it's well drafted and I like the fit.  The second reason is the fabric, a wool knit that keeps me warm during the winter.  This is a rare find now-a-days, the man-made fibres found in most of the knits at the fabric store are not worth the money if you're looking for something to actually keep you warm.  I'm truly blessed to have this fabric, this was a dead stock purchase for ninety-nine cents many moons ago.  And the third reason is the machine rolled hem worked out so well on this project.  I actually make two this year, one was gifted.  (First one was made in May, followed by the second one in November.)

3.  A Cotton Top.  

Of course, a Tilton design, OOP Butterick 5891 made it to the list!  I am a fan of the Tilton sister's designs.  The second reason this project made it onto this year's favourite list is the fabric.  When I came across a piece of this fabric and discovered that there was enough to recreate another version of one of my favourite tops, it seemed like a no-brainer.  (This top was made in April.)

4.  Wool Socks Rock!  

Seriously, is there anything more cozy and toasty than wool socks?  Need I say more?  (So many socks were made during the month of March.)

5.  Patchwork pajama bottoms.  

This may be my favourite scrap-busting project of all time.  I'm not a quilter but this might be the closest that I come to that branch of sewing.  The patchwork pieces were used to make a pair of pajama bottoms.  And they are comfortable for the win.  (These patchwork pajama bottoms were made in February.)  

6.  Knit Shorts.  

These shorts were made with vintage Vogue 2092, a DKNY pattern that I have been after for so long.  I once had a copy of this pattern and made a pair of shorts and a couple of wrap tops.  It was a much loved and used pattern.  The copy I had wouldn't fit me today, so I was happy to come across this pattern again in my current size.  (These shorts were made in July.)

7.  Wool pull-on pants.  

These wool pants are made with OOP Butterick 6717, and a burgundy colour wool that has been in the stash for a very long time.  They worked well together and these are toasty warm for the winter.  (These pants were made last month.)

8.  French Terry Pull-over top.

  

It is the fabric that makes this item a favourite make.  I can't believe that for a moment of time, I almost considered giving up on this project.  The pattern is a long-sought after OOP Vogue 2925, a Betty Jackson design.  (This top was made earlier this month.)

9.  DVF Wrap Dress 

It's been years that I dreamed of sewing this iconic DVF Vogue designer wrap dress pattern.  And even though I made a few copies of this pattern, this one is my favourite because of the fabric.  (This version of the DVF wrap dress was made in March.)

10.  Child's Dress  

This little dress, OOP McCall's 5795, made it to the favourite list because it actually did not break me.  Not kidding.  Sewing velvet and velveteen was a challenge in the past but this time, even though I did have to break out the seam ripper, it all turned out.  And check out the matching on the plaid!  It just made me so happy to be able to gift this dress.  (This project was sewn this month.)

Happy Sewing!  And Merry Christmas!

Stash Busting: Child's Christmas Dress / OOP McCall's 5795

Well, how does that saying go?  "Never say never."   Here I am with something that I said I would never do again.  Yes, Virginia, I sewed another velveteen dress with the same pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 5795 (available in digital format).  

This time I only sewed the bodice in velveteen, the skirt portion is in a plaid silk fabric.  I was trying to save myself from potentially sewing all those diagonal hand stitches to prevent the velvet from shifting while underneath the presser foot at the sewing machine.  

I took, what I thought would be, a few shortcuts with this one.  Mainly, I was trying to get the most from of my limited sewing time.  Darn Colorado low is passing through these parts and dumping lots of snow.  But I digress...

Instead of lining the bodice, I finished the sleeve and neckline with bias tape that I had in my stash.  But not before I cut bodice pieces out and stitched the darts.  It was a post-cut decision.  I also did not follow the steps laid out in the pattern instructions.  I've sewn a few dresses in my time so I know what techniques I like to use.  

The dress has a twelve inch invisible zipper that I cut down from a twenty-two inch zipper that was recycled.  I'm really please with how the zipper construction turned out.  Basting tape is the secret.  

The velveteen fabric is of a certain vintage.  It's been in the stash for more than a decade, way more.  The plaid silk is likely decades old as well.  I don't have much opportunities to sew fancy fabrics like these so it's nice to have the chance to use them.  I hope this little dress will be well-received.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and pinked

Fabric:  approximately 2 metres

Seam binding:  1 metre

Zipper:  Upcycled invisible zipper cut to 12"

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 5795

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pattern weights (various objects found around the cutting table), pins, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, threads, iron, ironing board, plush towel for steam pressing the velveteen pieces, seam ripper, and tea.  

Happy Sewing! 

Sometimes You Just Need a bit of Encouragement to Problem Solve: OOP Vogue 2925

I was pretty keen on sewing out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 2925, circa 1992, when it crossed my cutting table.  I couldn't wait to cut it out. 

And then for a brief time, I gave up thinking it was the wrong pattern choice for my ever evolving body.  

It was a comment from @valerielikestosew on Instagram that encouraged me not to give up.  And it was back to the sewing table to pain-stakingly unpick machine knit stitches that held the elastic in place around the neckline.  It is all thanks to God that I didn't damage the fabric in the process.  It was worth the eye strain, and in the end reducing the length of the elastic to fifteen inches instead of twenty inches made all the difference.  It is no longer too low in the front and loose in the back.  

I didn't mind the peasant blouse vibe that was happening when I tightened the elastic around the neckline.  Thinking I could work with this, I continued.  There were a lot of changes and modifications done to get to the final look.  

1. I found this pattern in a smaller size combination than I would typically pick up so there was some added ease to the pattern.  
• Half an inch was added where the armhole and side seam meet.
• Added an half of an inch to the side sleeve pattern piece at the underarm grading to nothing at the side sleeve dart
• An inch and a quarter was added to the side seam at the hem edge.  
• Three quarters of an inch was added to the center front and back at the hem edge and graded to nothing at the center back neckline and the front dot marking for where the stitching ends.  
2. Removed the side slits.
3. Shortened the hem six inches.
4. Omitted the sleeve slits and shortened the sleeve hem to one inch.  

Trying on the top before cutting it short, I thought this would make a cute dress if I lengthened it.  I can't believe I was at this point thinking about the next version before I even worked out the kinks in this one.  Who would have guessed there was a moment of time when I was considering cutting this up for something new.  I am so happy that didn't happen.  

I couldn't be happier with how it fits and turned out.  The fabric is a contributing factor to the final result.  It is a beautiful bamboo French terry fabric that has a sublime feel and look.  I will admit that I was a bit nervous about this fabric since it is made up of 67% bamboo, 28% cotton and 5% spandex and shrinkage would certainly be a given factor.  Bamboo is said to have a shrinkage rate of 6% whereas cotton has a 4% rate.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing cycle and time in the dryer.  Just in case any further shrinkage may occur, I'm handwashing and hanging to dry this top now that it is all sewn up.  

Project Details

Seams:  Machine knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.6 metres

Elastic:  0.89 centimetres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP vintage Vogue 2925

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, pins, clapper and button tins (used as weights), pins, measuring tape, ruler, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, screwdriver, tweezers, scissors, thread clippers, threads, pin cushion, time to think and sleep on it, tea and hot chocolate.  

Happy Sewing!