Make Something Week: Up-Cycled Top

I am a maker who is participating in Make Something Week (December 2 to 10th) hosted by Greenpeace and Fashion Revolution. 

A maker is someone who transforms things she already owns into something new by sharing, up-cycling swapping, repairing, and creating.  Make something celebrates creative, resourceful and social people that enjoy the experience of making something new out of their old things for the people we love.  

My second entry for this week is a top that I saved from being donated. Or worse ending up in the trash.

Prior to the transformation:

Back-in-the day when I bought RTW clothes (and was a lot slimmer), this tee-shirt make it into my wardrobe. Actually, two of them came home with me. They're from the Kate Spade Saturday line and they were a deal. But that wasn't the reason why I picked up two, it was the quality of cotton fabric, it's beautiful and beefy, unlike the fabric used in t-shirt found in the stores today. I shortened one of them and kept the other as a back-up. But sadly, this one shrank and the other was snug, unlike back-in-the-day when I first purchased these.  

It came to the point that I had to decide if I were going to donate both of them or try to save one. I decided on trying to save one. 

So, I opened the sides all the way up to the sleeves and then cut a gusset from the other tee-shirt.  

And believe it or not, I can now breathe when I wear it. Being a maker is a good thing.   

  

I know not everyone will have two of something but this fix can be done with a contrasting fabric as well to add a fun colour blocked feature.

Happy Sewing!

Make Something Week: Up-cycled Bags!

I am a maker.

A maker is someone who transforms things she already owns into something new by sharing, up-cycling swapping, repairing, and creating.  Make something celebrates creative, resourceful and social people that enjoy the experience of making something new out of their old things for the people we love.  

And I'm participating in Make Something Week (December 2 to 10th) hosted by Greenpeace and Fashion Revolution. So here goes my first entry, up-cycled bags.

Prior to the transformation:

My parents saved these flour bags from way back-in-the-day when groceries were packed in boxes or paper bags and people recycled glass pop bottles for a refund. You know, back before there was an environment levy applied to beverage purchases. We used to get money back when we brought our empty bottles back to the store to be recycled. But I digress... 

Back in the good old days they made things to last, including flour bags. I've made these vintage flour bags into grocery / farmer market bags to replace some of those "reusable" shamelessly self-promoting grocery store named bags which didn't last very long.

However, I was able to recycle the handles from the ripped store-bought bag and use it on the new one.  

The fabric is a canvas weight cotton and these will be fabulous because they're washable.

The blue straps were picked out of my notion drawer left over from some back-pack sewing projects.

I'm ready to go shopping! Now, what to pick up for dinner?

Happy Sewing!  

Update:  These are a hit with my friends and the Trinidad one has already found a new home. Who knew these could make good Christmas gifts as well.  

Jumpsuit: Vintage McCall's 6437

Sometimes it's nostalgia that dictates the next sewing project. That's what happened when jumpsuits starting re-appearing the pattern books. I longed to make one but there wasn't a pattern that made me forget about a jumpsuit I made back-in-the-day.

That is when the search for out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 6437 began. It took awhile to find this pattern in my size range and when I finally found a copy, I couldn't wait to get to work on it.  

I went with view B but changed the sleeves to those on view A, considering how my arms are not as slender as they were back in 1993. What I forgot is how low cut the front is and that maybe I should have adjusted the shape of the neckline. I think there will be an infinity scarf project coming soon.   

I really like the high waistline and the lined bodice. The only thing missing, besides a more modest neckline, are pockets. The plan was to make this one to test the fit before cutting it out in a British wool. Now, I'm changing my mind. I like the jumpsuit but if I'm going to make another one it will be view C for the summertime, something I can wear with a tee-shirt. I think I'll save the wool fabric for another project. 

The fabric is a cotton sateen stretch. It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine, dryer and then a good pressing before cutting it out.  

There weren't too many changes made to the pattern. Of course, the length had to be shortened and then more length came off when I tried them on. I cut the pattern in the largest size at the side seams but then had to cut it back down to a size 14. I kept the neckline, shoulder and armhole as a size 14 from the start. I also changed the regular zipper to an invisible zipper which required changing the order of the pattern instructions.   

It's a fun addition to the wardrobe, if not all that practical for the season. I will likely wear it when kicking around the house or to run errands when the weather warms up. 

The Stats:

Fabric:  3 metres cotton sateen

Interfacing:  0.40 fusible

Needle:  1 serger needle

Zipper:  18" invisible zipper

Basting tape:  1.15 metres double-sided basting tape

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 6437

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, measuring tape, thread clippers, sewing machine, zipper foot, invisible zipper foot, blind hem foot, serger, tweezers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, pressing mitt, and a sleeve ham.  

Happy Sewing!

November in Review...

Sewing:

I had some sewing plans this month. How many were crossed off the list?  

1. Make a sweater or two with Simplicity 8529.  I actually make two.  One was my toile and the second version has received a lot of wear throughout the month.  
2. Make that beautiful Paco Peralto skirt, Vogue 1567.  I didn't get around to this project yet.  
3. Make Vogue 9268 in a cotton knit fabric.  I can cross this one off the list but I'm not 100% thrilled with my fabric choice. Don't get me wrong, I love the fabric. It's just that Vogue 9268 needs a fabric with some drape. Even though I do have cotton fabric that has some drape I went with a beefier cotton batik that had a generous width. There will be another remake in the future, I'm sure.  In the meantime, I been wearing my new dress. No need for it to go to waste.  

And there were more sewing projects that got made this month.  

First row L to R:  Reusable cotton grocery bags, no pattern used (blog post coming up in a couple of days); cotton microwave cozies, no pattern used. Second row L to R:  cotton sleepwear bottoms, Vogue 9217; cotton sleepwear top, Butterick 6296; black wool knit top, Simplicity 8529 (red knit top shown on original blog post); cotton knit dress, Vogue 9268 and Vogue 9057. Third row L to R:  cotton microwave cozies, no pattern used; black and white cotton skirt, out-of-print Vogue 9951; reusable cotton grocery bags, no pattern used; and cotton knit panties, Simplicity 8229.  

RTW & Fabric Fasts:

I'm happy to report that I have managed to stay away from RTW clothing besides the odd window shopping. It's a good confidence booster when you see something in the store and know that your sewing skills have improved to the point that you can chose better quality fabrics and sew with techniques not found in RTW garments. The fabric fast failed but in my defence I picked up fabric for projects for others. 

The Stats:

Supplies	Quantity Used from the stash this Month	Quantity Used this Year	Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape	0.36 metres	6.29 metres	0
Bias Tape	4.15 metres	32.95 metres	10 metres
Buttons	5	62	50
Chain		0	0
Cord Stopper		0	0
Elastic	8.4 metres	38.3 metres	38 metres
Fabric	17.9 metres	140.5 metres	85 metres
Fusible Tape	3 metres	44.26 metres	6 rolls
Hand needles		2	0
Hook and Eyes		0	0
Interfacing	1.2 metres	11 metres	6 metres
Lace trim		2.6 metres	0
Pattern (new)	4	21	18
Pattern (previously used--TNT)	4	34	0
Ribbon		1.1 metres	5.3 metres
Serger needles		0	0
Serger thread		4	12
Sewing machine needles	1	11	9
Snaps		5	0
Thread	3	18	18
Trim	0.1 metres	4.2 metres	7 metres
Velcro		0	0
Zipper	1	10	10

So what do I have in store for next month?

1. I would really like to work on that Oki Style shirt pattern I picked up last year. 
2. Vogue 1567 is still on my wish list. If I make it in the red plaid silk I have in my stash, it would be something that I can wear to the theatre in a couple of weeks. And it will be a fun Christmas skirt.   
3. I want to finish that wool coat, another version of OOP Vogue 8934. It's cut out and started, I just have to focus on it.  
4. And finish off a jumpsuit, it's almost done.  
5. And there are some Christmas sewing projects in the works as well. 
6. Oh and I have a few posts coming up about Make Something Week sponsored by Greenpeace and Fashion Revolution.  Stay tuned.    

On that note, I should get to work.  Happy Sewing!  

Psychological Prescription for Troubling Times

This weekend in the Globe and Mail, Nathalie Atkinson presented a fashion theory in her article, "Sparkle and Shine:  There's Never Been a Better Time to Adopt a Flamboyant Look". She pushes past the lipstick index as a reference to fashion's commentary on the economy. Instead, Atkinson refers to as the Rhinestone Index as a commentary on the dark times we're currently living in. 

Therma Kota's gold jacquard bomber jacket. {Source}

The Rhinestone index has nothing to do with the economy, rather it's psychology. All that glitters, shines and sparkles on the fashion runways is a reaction to the constant terrible news of the world.  

And yet, yesterday when the world heard the news of a royal engagement it was a simple non-decorated coat that crashed a fashion website as people flocked to find and sell out the simply designed coat.  

Meghan Markle wearing white coat by Canadian fashion brand Line the Label.
{Source}  

McCall's pattern company was quick to congratulate the happy couple and point consumers to the very similar pattern design that can be whipped up at home.

McCall's congratulatory instagram post {source}

Yes, indeed!  McCall's 7480 is a very strikingly similar design. And it quite easy to change the sleeve design to a two-piece more fitted sleeve if you're a looking for a copy-cat version. This instagram post received over 1,800 likes and surely some sewing machines will be humming away to capture this happy moment and recapture the concept of I dress, therefore I am.  

Maybe, yesterday's engagement announcement highlights Atkinson's point about the psychology of fashion with her new index. When there was finally some happy news for a change, the style called for some sophistication and grace over flashy. So the question remains, will you be sewing McCall's 7480 or will it be glitter and glamour coming out of your sewing room? I don't think I will be sewing either as right now as I'm busy working on a vintage pattern.  

  

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

It has now been three weeks since I stopped wearing man-made fabrics. My wardrobe has been cleared out and what remains are items made with cotton, cashmere, linen, or silk. And so far, there has been an noticeable difference in my sinus issues. It will be interesting to see if this continues for another two and a half months. In the meantime, I'm working on a new winter coat made out of all natural fibres since my winter coat has a Kasha lining and is underlined with micro-fleece.  

Even though it is cold enough to wear a winter coat, I'm distracted with another potential project. There is a new pattern in the collection, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 6437 in the sizes that I need. Now I just need to decide on fabric. There is a beautiful grey coloured British wool that I'm tempted to use but I think I might make it in a blue cotton to test out the pattern.  

I'll have to put OOP McCall's 6437 in the smaller sizes up for sale in the Etsy shop since I won't need to grade the pattern. Oh and the Etsy shop has a sale going on for the next two weeks. All patterns, scarfs, stockings, and vintage items have been reduced by 20% and microwave cozies by 10% off. The sale ends December 6, 2017.  

It's hard to believe that Christmas is soon approaching. I'll need to get busy with gift giving sewing projects soon.  

Well, that is all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  

The Perfect Merger: Vogue 9268 & 9057

I first made Kathryn Brenne's dress, Vogue 9268, a few months ago and it has been on my wish list to make another. I love how comfortable this dress is to wear but even though I like the drape of the ITY knit, I really wanted one in a cotton jersey. The ITY knit was my toile before I cut into this fabric. Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9057 came into play when I was thinking about what I wanted to change. On Vogue 9268 the armhole sits a little low, almost a dropped armhole. It wasn't a big deal but while ironing my tee-shirt (yeah, I do that) it hit me that I like how the armhole and even the modified neckline fits. I wondered if these two pattern could work together.  

It turned out to be the perfect merger.  

I started out with matching the point where the underarm and side seam meet and then folded under and out of the way the bodice from the dress. From there I was able to cut the armhole, shoulder and modified neckline from Vogue 9057 and kept the shape of the side and skirt seams. This way I was able to achieve the rounded neckline that I preferred. The sleeve pattern that I used came from Vogue 9057 and there wasn't much difference besides the armhole shape. I also, as on the toile, eliminated the centre seams opting for the dress to be cut on the fold. The sleeve length was extended 1 1/2" and the skirt was shortened an inch.  

Instead of cutting the interfacing pattern pieces from Vogue 9268, I chose Knit-N-Stable tape to stabilize the hems and neckline edges.  

I can't be more thrilled with how it turned out. The fabric is a batik cotton jersey that I found at Northwest / Marshall fabrics and much to my surprise it is wider than 150 cm. It is the perfect width (170 cm) for the larger sizes as it can easily accommodate the full drape of the skirt. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer prior to cutting it out. It will be washed in cold water and after this I will just hang it to dry as I don't want to risk it shrinking any more.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  3.8 metres

Fusible tape:  3 metres

Sewing machine needle:  1 Ball point needle

Patterns:  Vogue 9268 and Vogue 9057

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, lint brush, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!