April in Review....

Sewing

Sewing activities slowed down this month.  There were some more reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), a cardigan jacket (Butterick 6495) that was gifted and new top for moi (OOP Butterick 5891).  This month was mostly focused on a physio exercises for my hand and a new brace appears to be a game changer in the sewing workspace.  

Fashion Revolution

This month, once again awareness was brought to the forefront on the tragedy of 2013 at Rana Plaza where over a thousand garment workers died at a factory collapsed.  Inside workers were sewing fast-fashion for western consumers.  Out of that tragedy, Fashion Revolution was born.  

Is the Fashion Revolution movement even relevant anymore?  It's sad when I think about the process made since the 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza.  Have things got better?  And if so for who?  The big brand names outsourcing their production or the workers who often work in unsafe conditions for much less than a living wage?  Joe Fresh here in Canada and other brands around the world are still pumping out fast fashion created in less developed nations.  Workers are still being exploited and fast fashion is still producing garments at rates that are not sustainable.  Progress is slow.    

If anything I hope at the very least there is more awareness about the social justice and workplace safety issues that fast-fashion and textile industries tries to hide.  And that consumers have an epiphany that consumer habits can make a change towards a better world with compassion for others.  There are a lot of books out there about the impact of fast-fashion but if I may recommend a book this year, it would be Fake Silk .  This book highlights that this is not a modern day issue.  

Stash busting

This month's sewing was all about sewing with left-over fabrics found in the stash.  The four blue reusable grocery bags were made with left-over fabric from this 2019 project.  The burgundy reusable grocery bag is made with left-over fabric from this 2022 project.  The top is make with left over fabric from part of this 2020 project.  And the cardigan / jacket is made out of left-over fabric from this 2021 project.  It felt great to use up scraps.  

Stash busted this month:  7.8 metres of fabric, 3 buttons, 3 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape and 3 spools of serger thread.  Added to the stash were six buttons that were used right away.  

Would you believe that Northwest / Marshall Fabrics is having a moving sale and even though social media posts are popping up advertising up to 70% off fabrics I haven't even been tempted to check it out.  It might have something to do with the eye-brow raising prices at the grocery store and the gas station.

Yup, that's right a pound and half of grape tomatoes for twelve dollars.  And notice that they are Alberta grown?  They are not imported from Mexico or the United States.  They are locally grown a couple of provinces over.  Rising grocery prices and the increasingly high cost of basic needs are a great motivation for stash busting these days.  At these prices, those reusable grocery bags won't be packed full.  And this sewing hobby might be replaced with vegetable growing over the summer.  

Past & Future Plans

I can check off the cardigan jacket but deciding on a pattern for an eyelet dress didn't materialize.  Right now there are a couple of projects cut and in the works, a new shirt with a wee bit of extra ease for moi and another pair of pull-on Men's pants that were requested.  And who knows what else will hit the cutting table after these projects?  Maybe that eyelet dress.  Or maybe I'll be busy planning a tomato garden.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

When Fabric and Pattern are a Perfect Match: OOP Butterick 5891

Back-in-the-day, many, many moons ago, I found these beautiful printed cottons in the discounted section of the fabric store.  I picked up three different print patterns and with them, over the years, I made three versions of out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5891.  The Katherine Tilton pattern and the cotton fabric happen to be, in my humble opinion, a perfect match.  The first version was made in 2013.  The second version replaced the first in 2020, after a hair dye accident.  This is the latest 2022 version.  

Over the years, this top pattern, made in the other versions, has been a favourite piece of clothing.  Although, it's not suitable for a brutal prairie winter, there is hope that spring may soon arrive.  And with that the possibility to wear this without a shiver.  It was a tough winter, but I digress.

I was thrilled when I discovered that there was enough of this fabric to make one more version.  And even though I wasn't looking to sew another version at this time, I also didn't want to pack this piece of fabric back in the stash.  It's been aging in there long enough.  And it was pretreated in the past, all I had to do was cut and sew. 

The only changes to the pattern was to first raise the pockets a wee bit, something that I've done with the other versions.  The hem on the sleeve is a two inch hem instead of the recommended one inch hem.  And I left off the interior button as I usually wear a brooch in its place.  

This pattern is a keeper.  I don't think I will make another version any time soon but I do know I will hold on to this one for awhile longer.  It's well drafted and I really enjoy the shape of the collar.  I love that it has side pockets.  The buttons were also hiding out for a long time in my button collection.  I had everything I needed in the stash to start and finish this project.  

It was the perfect rainy weekend project.  A bit of nostalgic sewing I guess.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (112 cm width)

Interfacing:  0.8 metres

Buttons:  Recycled

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5891

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, tailor's chalk, clapper (used as a weight), iron, ironing board, thread clippers, sewing machine, regular presser foot, buttonhole foot, measuring tape, measuring gauge, serger, threads, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Small Acts of Green: Earth Day & Sewing

Okay, let's get something cleared up, my personal sewing is not and hasn't been zero waste.  And to be completely honest, I don't think it will ever come to that in my lifetime.  I will say that my sewing has evolved or the years and yes, I am getting better at using up scraps.  

Old sweaters have been turned into blankets and throws.  

New patchworked fabric created from smaller scraps to be turned into pajama bottoms turned out to be a more rewarding project that I could have imagined.  

I won't be sewing any zero-waste design garments they are just not my style.  Instead I'm okay with patchworking to keep scraps out of the landfill.  And possibly make a few pairs of patchworked pajama bottoms for the upcoming Christmas season.  Small steps at the sewing table.  

Happy Earth Day and Keep Sewing!

#Lovedclotheslast: A Love Story Dedicated to OOP Vogue 8709

Today marks the start of Fashion Revolution Week.  

Fashion Revolution week happens every year in the week surrounding the 24th of April. This date is the anniversary of the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse.

Rana Plaza, a building in Bangladesh, housed a number of garment factories, employing around 5,000 people. The people in this building were manufacturing clothing for many of the biggest global fashion brands. More than 1,100 people – mostly young women – died in the collapse and another 2,500 were injured, making it the fourth largest industrial disaster in history. 

No one should die for fashion.

Today, at the start of Fashion Revolution Week we're asked on reflect on our most loved pieces of clothing because we know that loved clothes last and are not easily discarded.  

One of the most loved pieces of clothing currently sitting in my closet would have to be a me-made jacket, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8709.  I made this item eleven years ago and I wear it as a top rather than a jacket.  It is nothing fancy or flashy rather it's comfortable and well-constructed.  I took care making this item. I stitched details that are unseen or found in RTW and fast-fashion.  And it's been mended and patched with care over the years.  

It is a Marcy Tilton design and I come to admire the unique detailing that she puts into her patterns.  I didn't even care about all the people who made fun of this jacket when I first wore it out into the public sphere.  At the time, I was working at a conservative Catholic school in a jean-wearing city where pants or leggings ruled superior in the era of athletic wear trends.  To say that my fashion choices did not fit with the city I live would be an understatement.  I didn't care because it had pockets and it was loose-fitting across my mid-section and it has sleeves that sit at the shoulder.  In my eyes, it has always been a perfect design even if my then work colleagues did not share the same view.  I don't dress to impress others.   

It is made in a 100% cotton fabric that I found at The Fabric Center during their closing sale eleven years ago.  This is also a tribute to quality fabrics once found at businesses that are no longer here.  And with the closure of these once retail treasures it has become harder to locate quality fabrics locally.  Today, shopping for fabric is searching for that gem buried deep in a jungle of man-made fibres.  I have a preference for non-blended natural fibres when shopping for fabric.  Fabric fasting has been an easy task of late.  If I do find a fabric that meets my personal criteria, it's likely out of my budget.   

So, it's important to take care of this gem.  To me it's priceless, something that would be irreplaceable even thought OOP Vogue 8709 is still part of my pattern stash.  I know that fabric like this one is hard to source in today's market.  I think sewing one's own clothing enables us to see the true value of clothes, quality fabrics versus what fabrics are chosen for RTW and fast-fashion clothing and the importance of mending and caring for them.  

For these reasons, I have to come to appreciate and cherish this garment.  Sewing this jacket allowed me to adjust the pattern pieces so that I have a garment at the length I want and with cuffs that actually sit at my wrist.  Fit is so important to me and we're all different sizes.  Don't be fooled by fast-fashion's oversized one-size-fits-all designs as a way to avoid proper fit.  One size does not fit all.  

Perhaps, one day I will create another jacket using this Marcy Tilton design.  Until then, I will still continue to love this piece of clothing for the many little joys it has brought over the years.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

Sunday Mending: OOP Simplicity 6851

Perhaps, this does not fall under a mending job.  More like fixing my sewing blooper.  Remember this project?  

I made it back in December and I was pretty happy with the way it turned out until it was brought to my attention that I sewed the buttons and buttonholes in the wrong spot.  

Today was about mending my ways.  I stitched the old buttonholes closed, sewed on new buttons and sewed new buttonholes on the opposite side.  The buttons were changed as requested.  I thought the other buttons looked nice but this is not something I made for myself so it really doesn't matter what I think about the buttons.  It's what the person who will be wearing it thinks that is important.  Thankfully, they're happy with the new changes.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Have you ever heard of qiviut?  

It's a wool that is described as softer than cashmere and warmer than down.  Eight times warmer than sheep's wool.  

I learned something new today.  

Yesterday, I never heard of qiviut.  

The source of this impressive fibre is the muskox.  

Photo source:  Guide to Greenland

Most of Canada's muskox population live in the Canadian Artic of the Northwest Territories and Nunavut and are under government protection since the early 1900s.  

Not that I expect to have the opportunity to work with qiviut, I do, however, think this was an interesting story.  

In actual sewing news...  

I've been busy cutting and sewing more reusable grocery bags.  

Another four are at the sewing table.  

Not the most exciting sewing project.  

Lately, practical sewing takes priority.  

And I received a request for another pair of men's pull-on pants.  

That will be next on my sewing list.  

And then maybe I'll get to a new pattern that I'm dying to try.  

It's the Merchant and Mills' Florence pattern.  

Photo source:  Merchant and Mills

It looks comfy and I do like the look of the top option as well.  

Photo source:  Merchant & Mills

I'll trace and test the pattern but I'm thinking about sewing the top in some silk noir that I've been holding onto for quite some time.  And maybe a linen for the dress.  

A muslin will be in order first as this is the first time I'm sewing a Merchant & Mills pattern and the sizing seems different from the patterns I'm used to sewing.  

Has anyone sewn this or any other M&M patterns?  

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Everyday is Handmade Day, Right?

Today is National Handmade Day.  A day, which falls on the first Saturday of April, to celebrate all things handmade with handmade gifts, of course.  Whether that be baking... 

Gluten-free Banana and Date Bread

or sewing...

Reusable grocery bag made with OOP McCall's 4851

How will you be celebrating National Handmade Day?   

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Something Cozy: Butterick 6495

Another cardigan / jacket made with Butterick 6495 is hot off the sewing machine.  This one, like the last version, is to be gifted.  

You see this time I had the person try on mine (a size medium) and it looked tight around the sleeves.  But they insisted that it was fine even when I asked them to move their arms.  Hmmm, I wasn't convinced so I made an executive decision and went up a size.  Just to be on the safe side and considering that the fabric is a French cotton terry and may or may not end up in the dryer.  

The other small change was for patch pockets.  I would have preferred to sew inseam side pockets but it was front patch pockets large enough to hold a Samsung cell phone that was requested.  I didn't pull an executive decision here.  Instead, I made a pocket pattern piece, pinned it to my jacket and we settled on the placement.  

This pattern, Butterick 6495, is a classic and has been a go-to over the years.  I would highly recommend it for a beginner project.  It is a well-drafted pattern.   

The fabric, this beautiful French cotton terry, I picked it up many moons ago thinking about making a dress for moi.  Instead, I made a pair of men's sweat pants and then there wasn't enough for a dress.  I was looking to use the rest of the fabric and I'm glad I found someone who was willing to accept this gift.  There might be a little bit of fabric left over for a top or part of a top, we'll see.  The fabric came from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the wash and dryer.  It rolls like crazy.  Someone suggested spraying the seam edges with starch to tame curled edges.  And even though it does work, I didn't feel like spending the time de-curling it.  A little patience pinning and everything worked out fine.  

Project Details

Seams:  Lightning bolt (knit) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.3 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.5 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6495

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, scissor sharpener, pins, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, walking foot, Jean-a-ma-Jig, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, thread clippers, thumb brace and Decaf coffee breaks.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!