New Coat: Vogue 9367

Sewing Vogue 9367 was a fun and challenging project.  Some of the challenges were self-imposed such as my fabric and interfacing choices.    

The Pattern

Vogue 9367 is rated as a very easy pattern.  This rating was questioned while working through the project.  Categorized as "the easiest and quickest pattern to sew" it is described as "great for beginners."  That may be if a beginner has some sewing experience sewing a two piece under collar and darts and takes the time to read through the instructions and catch the missing details. Noted on the pattern envelope description is a dropped shoulder with shoulder pads. Not noted in the pattern instructions is any mention of shoulder pads or how to include them within the basted armhole edges (26) prior to sewing in the sleeves (27-29).  This is when a sewing reference article, book, or online video could come in handy.

If you do have some experience under your belt, even if it's just a wee bit and you're looking for a project that doesn't have to worry about fitting issue, this is a good pattern to start with, absolutely.  

The pattern is a well-drafted pattern.  It offers length options along with the back neckline darts and back vent details that reminds me of a vintage 1960s vibe, circa Agent 99 of Get Smart. Très chic! 

I did make some changes to the pattern.  This coat is version C, shortened it to accommodate my petite frame. Of course, not being a Vogue sized model there was also some shortening of the sleeve pattern piece and raising the position of the side pockets. The back and front facing pieces were reshaped to eliminate the extension towards and around the armhole.  The shoulder pads, belt loops and belt were left off the project.  

I also changed the order and some methods of construction.  The sleeves were flat-fitted before sewing the side seams.  I finished the vent, facing and hem with seam binding. The rest of the seams were finished with the serger.

Instead of interfacing both the under collar and main collar pieces with fusible interfacing, I decided to interface the undercollar only.  I chose a horsehair interfacing instead of a fusible, it was stitched in place with my sewing machine.  

The Fabric

The fabric I chose did not come from the recommended "garbadine, poplin, or raincoat fabrics" listed on the pattern envelope.  Instead, the fashion fabric was a medium - heavy weight cotton sateen from the discounted home décor department at the local Fabricland store picked up back-in-the-day. Sorry, it's long gone. Since I didn't spend a lot of $$$ on my fabric, I didn't mind if it didn't come out perfectly so I treated this as a toile fabric with the hopes that it would be wearable. I didn't pretreat the fabric since the pattern was described as "very loose fitting." It did press well with steam and the cotton setting. And if it does shrink in the future, it's currently roomy enough to allow some wiggle room.  I could go down a size especially in the shoulders and armhole area so any shrinkage at this point won't be a concern.  

I would also recommend a denim for this coat.  If you want a lighter weight, maybe a faux denim such as tencel.  The simple design lines and inseam pockets opens this project to many fabric choices.

As previously mentioned, the pattern calls for fusible interfacing but instead I went for a non-fusible horsehair interfacing. There is fusible horsehair interfacing but I just used what was in my stash and I really don't see the convenience of fusible interfacing as justifying the cost.  Fusible horsehair interfacing is pricey.  I'm pleased with the non-fusible for this project.

Cutting the buttonholes would have been a bit of a challenge if it weren't for these tools, 9 mm buttonhole cutter and a small hammer.  Sometimes tools for sewing can be found in tool boxes.

And I really must give a shout-out to the lovely folks at Fabricland who ordered two more packages of these buttons.  Thank you, they were the perfect colour and the help was very much appreciated!

The Stats

Fabric:  3.9 metres

Interfacing:  3.5 metres

Buttons:  11 - 25 mm buttons

Seam binding:  2 packages

Pattern:  Vogue 9367

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Scissors, pins, pin cushions, hand needle, basting thread, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, collar press, clapper, ironing mitt, sleeve roll, tailor's ham, cutting table, sewing machine, serger, threads for the sewing machines, walking foot, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, tweezers, screwdriver, and tea.  

Will you be sewing a raincoat this season?  

Happy Sewing!