November in Review...

At the beginning of the month I couldn't imagine that I would have sewn this much. I made my way back to sewing as our province moved from code red into a lockdown situation. It all started with sewing face masks many of which were donated and then other projects hit the sewing workspace.  

These were the items de-stashed this month:  

• 16.66 metres of fabric
• 31 metres of twill tape / ribbon
• 4 metres seam binding
• 3 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 1.2 metres basting tape
• 25 cord stoppers
• 4.9 metres elastic
• 2 - 55 cm invisible zipper
• 1 free downloadable PDF pattern
• 1 new Vogue pattern
• 1 previously used pattern

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Tried and True Tulip Dress

The Assembly Line's Tulip Dress is a tried and true (TNT) pattern and since this is the third version it came together quite easily and quickly.  

Basically the same changes as the las one.  The hemline that was cut a wee bit too short the first time around had and inch and a half added back on.  The facings were replaced with seam binding finish on the neckline as well as the sleeve hem.  A quarter inch was added to the seams so that I could construct this dress with 5/8" seam allowances.  There was an exception to the addition when cutting the curve of the neckline and the waistline seam.  I still kept a 5/8" seam allowance at the waistline.  And of course the pocket height was raised.  

This cotton sateen fabric has some stretch. It's been in my stash for many, many moons. If the fabric looks familiar it made an appearance once before. Wow, almost ten years ago! It was pre-treated back-in-the-day, so it just needed a good pressing before hitting the cutting table. 

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 stitch length

Seam finish:  Serged.  

Tips:  Take care and your time to make sure to press as you go along. 

This little mistake happened because I decided to skip the pressing part after serging the edge just before sewing in the zipper.   

Fabric:  3 metres

Zipper:  55 cm invisible 

Seam binding:  1 metre

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, clapper, pins, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, regular presser foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, seam ripper, wrist pin cushion, serger, threads, screwdriver, lint brush, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, iron, ironing board, measuring tape and measuring gauge.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Where are the Winter / Holiday collections from Vogue, McCall's and Butterick? 

 

Could the non-existence of a Winter / Holiday pattern line be another casualty of the worldwide pandemic?  

Or could this be a sign of the corporate direction the new owners are taking with the Big Four pattern companies?  

Or perhaps the Winter / Holiday 2020 pattern release has been delayed?  

The world's economies are in a recession, employment rates are down right scary, and holiday gatherings are discouraged as many economies are forced in to another lockdown.  The absence of the Winter / Holiday patterns just seem to highlight that these are not normal times.  

It is a season to make do and carry on. 

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Backlog Sewing: Filling a Request for Kids Face Masks

Of all the face masks that I have sewn this year, I've only sewn one for a small child. I don't do a lot of sewing for wee people. I don't have a model near by to try on items. When it comes to sewing kids clothing I tend to error on the large side and hope they grow into it and they do usually while their parents blink.  

Sewing a face mask for a wee person is a different story. I'm kind of working blind here and hoping that these will fit. These are going to pre-school age kids. The blue ones are an extra-small and the white print are a small.  

No clue how long to cut the elastic either. Some websites say to avoid elastics around the ears for kids. I'm just going to ship these with enough elastic for their aunt to make a final decision with fingers crossed that they will be well-recieved.  

Have you sewn face masks for kids?  Do you have a favourite pattern?  

I really like the fit of the Dhurata Davies face mask pattern.  The chin and nose darts make it one of my favourites.  It sits on the face without too much shifting or sliding out of place. Although, the orgami face mask is pretty sweet too.  Decisions.  

Even though the Dhurata Davies pattern is more work with all the darts and the pain of pressing those small sections I think it was worth the work.  As long as they fit.  For  that time will tell, right now they're at the post office awaiting delivery.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.2 length

Seam Finish:  Raw

Tips:  Details like darts matter even if it's more work than other face mask patterns.  This design is worth the extra effort.  

Fabric:   0.6 metres

Elastic:  3 metres

Pattern:  Free Downloadable PDF Dhurata Davies Face Mask pattern

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Computer, printer, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, cutting table, fabric scissors, thread clippers, pins, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, measuring gauge, safety pin and tea.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Reusable Coffee Filter

So simple and so kind to the environment. I'm actually shaking my head as to why I didn't think of this sewing project earlier.

I jump on this as a sewing project when I spotted a version on the Java Works website. I knew I could make my own with supplies in the stash.  And of course, I had to brew a pot of coffee to test it out. 

Here's to saving the planet one pot of coffee at a time.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.2 length

Seam Finish:  Serged

Tips:  If you know a coffee lover who makes their java in a drip pot, this might make a sweet stocking stuffer.  

Fabric:  0.2 metres (unbleached cotton)

Pattern:  A disposable coffee filter

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, tailor's chalk, ruler, sewing machine, serger, threads and coffee.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Replacement Sewing: The Tulip Dress

Once upon a time, many months ago, I made a toile that turned out to be a pretty sweet dress.  That means it fit. And I had plans to make another. Life had other plans and I lent the dress never to see it again. It just meant that it's time to get to work on the post-toile version.  

Two changes were needed before cutting out the fabric. I added 1/4" to the seam allowances because I prefer sewing with a 5/8" allowance. It made for easier serging. The pattern instructions actually suggest finishing all the seam edges before stitching the seams. And there was 1 1/2" added back onto the cut-too-short length of the skirt. 

Changes that were part of the first make that were duplicated include: finishing the hems and neckline with seam binding, inserting the sleeve flat, changing the order of steps and raising the position of the pockets.  

This fabric has been in my stash for many many moons. It was about time that I made something with it as it was starting to fade at the fold line. Thankfully, I was able to cut the pattern pieces around these spots. The fabric was pre-treated with at tumble in the washing machine followed by the dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing. This is a medium weight cotton / linen blend with a quality that is hard to find now-a-days, a clue to it's age.  

At the moment I don't have any immediate plans to make another version of this dress. There are no plans to lend it out eliminating any risk of losing it. Although, it is a very comfortable style so there might be another one in the works.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam Finish:  Interior seams are finished by serger.  Sleeve hem and neckline were finished with seam binding.  

Tips:  Invest in a seam binding maker.  It's easy to make your own seam binding when you have the right tools and it comes in handy when your city is under another lockdown.  

Fabric:  3 metres

Zipper:  55 cm invisible

Basting tape:  1.2 metres two-faced tape

Pattern:  The Assembly Line Tulip Dress

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Measuring tape, measure gauge, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, clapper (used a weight), scissors, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, regular presser foot, tweezers, lint brush, mini vacuum, screwdriver, threads, serger, thread clippers, seam ripper, bias tape maker, and coffee.

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

Basic Black Bias-cut Knit Skirt: Vogue 1730

I really like this skirt.  It's very comfortable and it looks good with this shirt.  They both have asymmetrical hems that compliment each other.  Gotta love it when a new make works with another piece.  

Sewing this project was easy once it came to sewing.  

First, I had to shorten it.  The pattern doesn't come with lengthen / shorten lines but the front and back pieces include an extension.  It's this point that I used for shortening the skirt length by two inches.  

Next came to cutting it out.  Yikes!  The pattern pieces and single layer of fabric won't fit on my cutting table and meant this had to be done on the floor.  And for this reason, I doubt I will be revisiting this pattern.  

This skirt pattern does not have as much ease as the pants.  

The fabric is a ponte knit that was in the stash.  No idea how long it's been there.  I didn't prewash this piece of cloth before cutting into it.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.5 length (knit stitch)

Seam Finish:  serge

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 1730

Elastic:  1.4 metres

Knit 'N Stable Tape:  3 metres

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cardboard cutting mat, scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, measuring tape, sewing machine, serger, screwdriver, ball point sewing machine needle, threads, heat pad and coffee.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Corduroy Pants: Vogue 1730

I cut into a piece of corduroy fabric before testing out this pattern, Vogue 1730.  I know, risky business considering that we're in code red and just entered into a relaxed lockdown and fabric shopping is challenging at this time.  

It's not perfect, but it's wearable.  

It's hard to tell in the navy coloured corduroy but there are a lot of darts at the hemline.  These remind me of the shaping at the hemline of Marcy Tilton's coat pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8934.  The line drawing would suggest that this are more of a straight leg pant that tapers in at the hemline.  Not so, perhaps you should think of these as in the style of jodhpurs or hammer pants.  Seriously, had to take in the side seams from the waistline to above the darts to taper in the excessive hip ease.  It's a little more baggy in the rear than I like.  I would suggest considering this fact if you plan to try out this pattern.  If I revisit this pattern I would taper in those centre back leg seams from the waistline as well.  

The pattern envelope describes these as cropped pants but since I'm nowhere near the height of a Vogue model, these are full length pants on me.  I'm good with this.  Love the size of the pockets.  

The fabric is a lovely small wade corduroy.  It was pretreated before hitting the cutting table.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 stitch length

Seam Finish:  Serged 

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Elastic:  0.5 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 1730

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Rememberance Day: Poppy Dress

 

This dress is truly special.  

Nostalgic Fabric: Corduroy

I've always had a quiet admiration for corduroy fabric. There a nostalgic tie to this cloth that has been broken over the years.  Back-in-the-day it was easy to find corduroy fabric.  A corduroy blazer with patch pockets was once considered a staple in one's wardrobe.  

Now it days it seems to be considered a vintage fabric if you were to search the aisles of a fabric store.  Even though there seems to be a reimagination of the corduroy blazer.   

Although I'm not looking to recreate this iconic piece. I'm thinking about winter wear and would love to sew a pair of corduroy pants.  Ah, the memories of childhood, playing in the snow and having the snow brushed off my corduroy pants.  But I digress.  

Yes, I need a pair of pants.  Something to keep me warm this winter.  Something that brings cozy and happy memories of winters gone by.  Something made in corduroy.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!  

Production-style Charity Sewing: The Aplat Face Mask

 There has been some production style sewing of late.  

These, plus five more, will be going to the hard-working teachers and educational assistants at a local school who wear glasses. I find the biggest issue with wearing a face mask all day is how do you get around your glasses fogging up?  I hope they will be well-received and the fit of the Aplat face mask offers the solution.  

The best feature which turned out being a big pain in the fingers were the cord and cord stopper feature.  That was not fun in a production line situation.  I'm happy they're done and ready to deliver. Fingers are crossed that they are well-received.  

 

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 straight stitch 

Seam Finish:  None

Tips:  The narrowest width of cotton twill tape is the most comfortable for over the ear.

Fabric (includes filter fabric):  4.8 metres

Twill tape:   27 metres

Seam binding (I ran out of twill tape):  3 metres

Cord Stoppers:  20

Pattern:  Aplat Face Mask Origami Design (Free PDF)

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, thread clippers, pins, pin cushion, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, seam ripper, masking tape, safety pin, computer, printer, paper scissors and coffee. 

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!

What Does Code Red Mean?

It means that I need to dust off the sewing machine, get busy and sew more face masks.  Our part of the country is going into more Covid-19 restrictions as we've been leading the country in Covid cases per capita.  Our city with a population of 816 593 has more cases today than our nation's largest city (Toronto's population is 6 196 731).  And that was the push towards the sewing machine this weekend.  

Mind you, I did end up spending more time with the seam ripper and at the ironing board with the iron in hand than I did at the sewing machine.  So it is kind of amazing that I managed to get this done over the course of the weekend.  

I continued with the Aplat Mask (origami design) but tweaked it just a bit.  The first one I had made it with a cord elastic that wasn't all that comfortable.  So with a seam ripper in hand, I removed the top-stitching and elastic to replace it with a twill ribbon and a cord stopper.  

I know that I can easily tie them in the back but these are easier to secure in place.  And with winter dressing, easy seems to be the way to go.  I just need to find some more of these little gadgets as I'm sure I'll be sewing more of this style.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 straight seams

Seam Finish:  None 

Tips:  Sewing with a wider stitch length would have made those moments of seam ripping easier.  

Fabric:  0.96 metres

Ribbon:  4.0 metres twill tape

Cord Stoppers:  5

Pattern:  Alpat Mask (Free PDF)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin cushion, sewing machine, zipper foot, regular presser foot, iron, ironing board, seam ripper, and coffee.  

Stay Safe & Happy Sewing!